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Tupperj

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Everything posted by Tupperj

  1. Tupperj
    OK folks, before I tear the bike apart, I could use some advice. The patient is an 89 MkII that is new to me. Three different time I've had the bike die will running at highway speeds. The power down is sudden, and complete, no sputtering as if fuel was running out, more like the kill switch was hit. Once I've pulled the bike over, the starter has not wanted to spin, and I've heard and electrical "crackling" from under the false cover. If the bike is allowed to sit and cool down, it will happily start and run, at least until it gets hot. The first manifestation was at the end of a 150+ mile run with some GoldWing folks on Memorial Day, and then earlier in the week on the way back from the son's soccer game across town. Other symptom is a bad neutral switch. Thought I was stranded on the GW ride when the bike wouldn't turn over at all until I put the side stand up. Neutral indicators don't like to work well when the bike gets warm, work much better when the bike is cold. I've replaced the battery cables (about time, kinda like the cobbler's kids not having shoes!) and currently suspect two separate problems. First problem is the starting issue, and I'm thinking either bad solenoid (electrical "crackling" noise) or gummed up starter that doesn't like being hot. Could a bad sidestand switch be my culprit? I'm thinking about cleaning it out and possibly fitting a telltale light to the circuit to show that it is or is not working. Thoughts from the collective? (We are Venturers of Borg, you will be assimilated!) Thanks, Paul P.S. Sorry for the StarTrek joke, I'm a SciFi geek at heart!
  2. Tupperj
    Got my braces today and they look great! Guess it's working on the forks for me this weekend. Well done, Condor! Paul
  3. Tupperj
    Don't know if this will help at all, but all of our helmets are Shoei's, RF-800's, 900's and 1000. I've got a "Shoei" head, so that's what fits. Anyway, I use an Autocom unit and have put their headsets in all the helmets over time. Never had a problem, but Autocom recommends their mike be right up against the lips for best results. Never bothered me. One used helmet I bought someone had put a headset in and they cut a hole in the chin padding and must have had the microphone right there. Good luck! Paul
  4. Tupperj

    Gps Units

    Tupperj replied to BIG TOM's topic in Watering Hole

    I'll weigh in with a vote for the Garmin 2720. It's waterproof, has a largish touch screen and a remote. Now, a remote might not sound like a useful thing on a bike, but it does let the co-pilot fiddle with things while I keep my hands on the bars. We put a lanyard on it so there's not chance of dropping it. It does take bike power, no batteries. I got the bike mounting kit, and have it hooked into my Autocom system and the voice prompts are quite clear. Have it hooked to a Ram mount on the brake master. One of the best things, it it's NOT the latest and greatest, so they can be picked up on E-Bay for $150 or so. A pretty good deal. My 0.02. Paul
  5. Tupperj

    Boats

    Tupperj replied to BuddyRich's topic in Watering Hole

    Buddy, I know a little about boats, have a project in the warehouse now. I'd be leery of the soft floor in the Bayliner. Given that the Bayliner and Maxum are made by the same folks, it's really a matter of trim. Kinda like Chevy and Oldsmobile. Both have the same outboard, so no preference there. Remember, BOAT stands for Break Out Another Thousand, or a boat can be described as a hole in the water that you pour money into. I'd suggest going with the boat with fewer stated flaws. If the floor is soft, how is the transom? Could be some rot there as well. Just my thoughts, worth about what you paid for them. Good luck, have fun, try not to go broke! Will you be towing this with your Venture? Paul
  6. Tupperj
    Squeeze, I agree that this is really good information to get out. Can we come to a consensus as to the appropriate fluid level for the various models? And does having Progressive springs change that value at all? I'm in the process of "cleaning up" the PDF service manual that's available, putting in some missing pages and such. I'd be happy to add an addendum if we can come up with an appropriate table. What do the guru's think? Paul
  7. Tupperj
    26 TupperJ 27 TupperJ Picked up one of these and liked it enough to outfit the fleet. Paul
  8. Tupperj
    Coming into this a bit late, but I use a Garmin 2720. Good mapping, touch screen, and waterproof. You can get a bike mounting kit to attach to your handlebars for about $40 that will hardwire the power and give you a jack to plug into your intercom system. Also, comes with a remote, so SWMBO can actually change things around while on the move. These units go for about $150 on E-Bay fairly regularly. You can usually find one cheaper that doesn't have the car mounting hardware, but for the bike not a problem. Paul
  9. Tupperj
    Thanks Neil. Really don't understand the carb thing. Glad I have replacements. I'm embarrassed to admit that I don't know for sure if the front running lights come on. Target fixation I guess. Guess I'll have to pull the CMS. And I just got the fairing pieces all buttoned up! Teach me to jump the gun. Take care. Paul
  10. Tupperj
    Yep, those are the ones! I agree about crash damage, would REALLY tear up the bike. I'm thinking PO tinkering. This is the same bike with electrical damage that someone attempted to repair with wire nuts. And bypassing the fuse block. People do the darnedest things to bikes. Thanks! Paul
  11. Tupperj
    Hoping to verify a diagnosis. Recent acquisition of an 83, required a wiring harness replacement. Bike came alive and after a few gremlins is running. For some reason, the running lights are out. Bulbs are good, and finagling a probe into the connector on the CMS shows 12 volts on the blue wire from the fuse block, but only 0.8 volts or so out on the blue/white wire for the running lights. Current thinking: bad solder joint in CMS, or bad CMS. Any other thoughts? Three of the four carb covers have silicone dabbed on the middle of them. Taking one off it looks like something ground through the cover, leaving a hole that the silicone is now sealing. Can anyone think of a good reason to do this, or how that could happen without a major crash? Kinda baffling. Thanks all! Paul
  12. Tupperj
    Mike, I've got a couple carcasses around that I'll pilfer a drain screw from. Give me an address and I'll send one out to you. Paul
  13. Tupperj
    Mike, if you're out there, I got your check for the battery cables. Unfortunately, I don't see where you want the all black or the color coded and I'd rather not send you the wrong ones. Let me know which you prefer, and I'll get them right out to you. Sorry for the delay, been out of town for a while. Thanks! Paul
  14. Tupperj
    Utadventure & Condor, Just in case you haven't dropped in yet, head over to http://www.yamaha-triples.org . They are a really good group, with lots of info on the site. Regarding the HD muffler question, I'm pretty sure that is a pretty common mod to the triples. Condor, I may have spoken too soon. Am I remembering that the 850's had Keihin carbs? The 750 has Mikuni's, so I might not have much to help. Rats, now I want to go get the triple running! I need more time! Paul
  15. Tupperj
    Hey Condor, We may not see eye to eye on everything, but we (or at least or families) have the same taste in bikes. I've owned an XS750 Triple for quite some time. I've acquired a pretty good parts stash in that time. What are you looking for, I can probably hook you up. Paul P.S. Eldest daughter now owns the Triple. Only thing she wanted for her 18th birthday.
  16. Tupperj
    I'll dissent. Why should the rest of a group bear the costs/liability for my taking part in risky behavior? Why should I, as a non-smoker have to bear the liability for those who choose to damage their health/kill themselves by smoking? As someone who stays in reasonably good shape, why should I bear the liability for taking care of the morbidly obese who can't/won't take care of their health? I choose to ride a motorcycle. I carry insurance, quite a bit of it. It's my responsibility to take care of myself and my family. If it ends up costing me more for my health insurance, then I have to decide whether or not that cost is worth it to me. I realize I'm in the minority, but there is another side to this. Paul
  17. Tupperj
    Try your local Radio Shack. They will have both the dielectric grease and contact cleaner. Have fun! Paul
  18. Tupperj
    Good for you, and your daughter! My now 20 year old worked with me to bring an old 78 XS750 Triple back to life, and when she turned 18 she told me all she wanted for her birthday was the bike. We also took an across the country bike trip together. Great time and great memories. Hopefully you and your daughter are making some memories of your own. Paul
  19. Tupperj
    Yep, got what you need. Send me an address and they're on your way Paul
  20. Tupperj
    You said it, not me. The pistons are chromed steel. Quite a bit different than steel wool. The caliper is aluminum, hence the problem. It's much softer than steel, which is why steel particles can embed in it. Same reason you don't clean the engine with steel wool. Why worry about mixing up the pistons anyway? There are only one size replacements available, so what is the concern? You still haven't answered the question on how you keep from washing grunge from one cylinder to another. And how you plan on getting anything left behind by bleeding from the top of the caliper. Best of luck to you. Paul
  21. Tupperj
    Say what you will, but when I went through the calipers on the Venture, I ended up liquifying gunk in the calipers while cleaning them. Some pretty good chunks. Since the bleeders are on the TOP of the caliper, why would they be dispelled in bleeding? If you spray brake cleaner into the caliper, while it's sitting opening up, it's GOT to pool at the bottom, and that's where the passages are that connect the calipers. How will it not migrate? As far as using steel wool, also not a good idea. Can leave pieces behind and steel tends to rust. Don't know about you, but I don't want any more rust than I can avoid in my brake system. As far as anti-squeal goes, read for content, that's not what I said. When I bought my caliper rebuild kits (NOT brake pads) they came with a small packet of red assembly grease. Don't know what it's made of, but it's definitely NOT silicone. Works wonders, put 800 miles on the bike and the brakes move just peachy, thanks. You've been educated. Hopefully. Paul
  22. Tupperj
    Barry, My suggestion would echo what has been said: you need good brakes. That rear master operates 2 of your three brake calipers. It needs to be working as well as possible. I'd get the parts, disassemble and clean and then plan on a yearly flush. You'll likely never have to do it again. At least until you put on stainless steel lines! As far as working on one piston at a time, I'll be a dissenter. I'd rather take all of them out, then you're not chasing grunge from one piston you are now cleaning back into one you have already cleaned. Pull them all, and you can know for sure that all the pistons are fully clean. When it come to putting the pistons back in, you need to lube the pistons with either brake fluid, or if you get the rebuild kits, it should come with some lube that I used on the square seals to make thing go together much easier. Keep up the good work! Paul
  23. Tupperj
    Won't guarantee it's the RIGHT approach, but it's how I'd do it. Be careful, have fun and enjoy the satisfaction of doing this yourself. Paul
  24. Tupperj
    Boomer, If you have a stuck piston, I'd recommend leaving the lines attached and dismounting the caliper from the bike. Then, you can use a C-Clamp or two or even three to stabilize the three pistons that will move and pump the brakes to force the stuck one out. Be warned, if you push it all the way out with fluid, you will have brake fluid all over. Not good, eats paint. Once you get the problem child most of the way out you can push the others out to the same level and then usually pull them out with something, just be careful not to mar the outside of the pistons. Paul
  25. Tupperj
    I feel your pain. I picked up an 83 recently that had an electrical fire inside the right fairing at one point. PO tried to fix things with wire nuts and totally removing the fuse block. Total mess. For under $30 I found a replacement on E-Bay. Only took me about 2 hours to totally replace the harness. Just started at the back, unplugged a few things and plugged in the new harness. Kept working forward until I got to the headlight area, then pulled everything out and re-connected everything. Many connectors are color coded, and/or keyed. Very satisfied when I got everything hooked up, put in a battery and hit the switch. Most everything that should have lit up lit up, and once I worked some of the handlebar switches a few times, everything is working, except the turn signals. Still haven't hooked up the hazard switch yet. Believe it or not, the bike fired up. Still running SeaFoam through the system, but it's getting better each time I start it. Bottom line, you might save yourself some time by getting a replacement harness and swapping. Also, if anyone needs replacement connectors, let me know. The old harness has all it's connectors and I'd be happy to send out any someone might need. Best of luck! Paul P.S. Shameless plug: You should replace those original battery cables with new, spiffy heavy duty units. I think someone around here is producing them.
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