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Tupperj

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  1. Tupperj
    Good luck. I think you'll find that the law calls for an approved DOT helmet, which you weren't wearing. Kinda like needing a license from the State Medical Board to practice medicine, not Bob's License shack. As far as the cop's attitude, wonder how he feels about yours? Paul
  2. Tupperj
    > Does the Constitution not reference the right to bear arms in reference to a militia? Are you saying that full auto weapons should be readily available? The Constitution also calls for insuring the common safety. That's why we have speed limits. Would you claim those are not constitutional? Or that you should be able to discharge a firearm anywhere you want? Don't think so. This is not tyranny! You're not being oppressed. Not even close, and claiming you are insults those who actually fight tyranny. There's an old saying that there are liars, damn liars, and statisticians. I've gotta doubt the statistical analysis ability of a guy who uses "whore" instead of wore. Did your analysis or his take into account miles ridden? Doubt it. Think about who you usually find riding without a helmet: the Harley crowd. And aren't those the same folks we tend to deride as owning "trailer queens" that rarely hit the road for distance? There's analysis, and then there's analysis. Regarding Tennessee are you looking at an increase in raw numbers, or percentages? See, without all the info, it's easy to make any conclusion you want. So far you've only proved that one can skew anything if you don't fully analyze it. Just looked at the TN info. Unless you're comparing miles ridden, I'd say it's faulty logic to take that one piece of information and draw any conclusions from it. Just my 0.02. Paul
  3. Tupperj
    Don't think so. Constitution says you can go where you will, but not how. You can't drive across my lawn, just because you want to travel to the next street. You're really trying to claim that motor vehicle licensing laws are unconstitutional? Good luck with that. As far as un-helmeted accidents, how about we ask Ben Rothlisberger? Or the the local young father who dropped the bike at low speed (under 15 MPH) who hit his head and died. Helmet would have had him up on his feet wondering what he did wrong to drop the bike. Paul
  4. Tupperj
    The good folks at Radio Shack have one with a rubber plug for $7. Simplest way would be to use an inline fuse and hook it to the battery. I installed mine just to the inside of where the tape deck would be. Paul
  5. Tupperj
    The difference is, and what most people miss, is that free speech IS a right, guaranteed by the Constitution. Driving is a privilege, which certainly can and should be regulated. Since it seems logical that the more severe injuries that accompany an un-helmeted accident would lead to a higher cost to society at large, seems fair that society should get something up front. I like it. Paul
  6. Tupperj
    Clay, Is it possible that the attachment for the shift lever to the shift shaft was put on upside down on re-assembly? It's possible to get it back together like that, and things just don't work so good. Been there, done that, greased up the T-shirt. Just another quick thing to check off. Paul
  7. Tupperj
    Well, you asked for wise, got stuck with me. My 89 does much the same thing. What you need to keep track of is how much gas you're actually putting in. On my long trip a week back, I was getting down to the last bar at about 125-130 miles but was only putting in less than 4 gallons, and getting a solid 37 miles per gallon. As for the odometer, it's not a separate cable, runs off the cable from the front wheel for the speedo. Enjoy, be safe! Paul
  8. Tupperj
    Clay, Condor's got you set on the master, the slave is easy, ONCE you get the dang thing off the bike! It will wiggle through and down, watch closely and pay attention to how it come out, and get it back in the same twisted way. For me it lead to some really creative cursing. Once the thing is out, it is extremely obvious how it comes apart, no tricks or surprises. Just get it cleaned out really well, put it back together and wiggle it back into place. It may seem easier to get it back in without the clutch line attached, but it's not. I'm also a fan of installing SpeedBleeders anywhere one has to bleed lines. But that's a personal choice. Good luck, and shout if you need anything else. Paul
  9. Tupperj
    Can't speak to the volume of the speaker, as I use the motorcycle mounting kit that provides power straight from the battery (if you want, my setup is a bit different) and then has a female 3.5mm pigtail for plugging in whatever you like. I will be running a line to my Autocom intercom, but I need an isolator to eliminate some nasty feedback. So, for now, I'm not getting any voice prompts, which I miss, but eventually I will get them through the helmet speakers via the intercom. Best of luck! Paul
  10. Tupperj
    Well, to check out the switch you could try this: Take both leads off the horns. Withe the bike one, you should see battery voltage on one lead, and nothing on the other. Hook the lead with voltage back up to the horn. Cover your ears. Run a jumper from the other lead on the horn to a ground. If the horn blows, probably the switch, if not, the horn. If it's the switch, open it up and clean it out with contact cleaner or brake cleaner. Not tough, just watch for small parts trying to escape to parts unknown. Clear as mud? Hope it's useful. Paul Oh, and you can uncover your ears now.
  11. Tupperj
    Color01 Just got back from a 1K mile run with the 2720 on an 89 Venture. If you get the bike mounting kit from Garmin it will come with an earphone pigtail up by the unit. Wish they would have put it down lower to keep an extra wire off the handlebars, but oh well. I tried to hook the Garmin up to my Autocom intercom (PO totally removed the stock system) but need an isolator to keep from getting some nasty feedback. The system worked great all through OH, Detroit, Ontario Canada and back through NY, PA and home. The RAM mount I have uses two bolts to the clutch reservoir. I like the position, as it puts the screen close to read easily, and it's right above the edge of the chin bar of my full face helmet. Easy to glance down to check without having to move my head. Sorry, don't have any ideas for interfacing with the factory system, besides maybe using one of those cassette adapters that folks use for MP3 players? Best of luck, if I can be of any further help, drop me a line. Paul
  12. Tupperj
    Not really positive ground. There was a time when auto's were wired with the positive terminal attached to the frame, or ground, as opposed to the current method of wiring the negative lead to the frame, or ground. I know MG's were that way until maybe the 60's? And I've got a 1933 Chrysler that was positive ground. I'm sure there's a perfectly good technical reason for the difference, just don't know what it is. Have you tried putting a straight 12 volts to the horns? Either from a spare battery, or a booster pack. That will tell you if your horns are frozen up. Since you get power to the horns, I'd suspect either the horns are corroded solid, or the horn switch is not doing it's job and completing the circuit. Hope that helps, Paul
  13. Tupperj
    Cliff, I ride an XS1100 but haven't had to dig that far into it. You mentioned the XS/XJ group, I'm assuming you mean XS11.com? I'm sure someone over there can walk you through the process. Those folks know the XS's like the folks here know the Ventures. Just checked and there are several articles on the second gear problem in the tech section. Best of luck to you, and let us know how it goes! Paul
  14. Tupperj
    Wayne, Couple of suggestions on the stuck pucks: First, complex and wonderful. It's possible to make a fitting to really put the air pressure to the caliper. You can pick up brass fittings that will fit inside a banjo fitting on a brake line. If you drill a hole through the pipe, like the banjo bolt on the caliper, you can cobble up something to allow you to hook up directly to your air line. Took a number of washers of appropriate sizes, and I put a valve on it to help control things. Then, bolt the open end of the brake line to the caliper, close the bleeder and use clamps of some kind to hold the pucks you can remove in place and turn up the pressure. Carefully! Things can fly about and cause pain and suffering. Nobody wants that. But it will put the pressure where you want it. Second, simpler and messier. Stick an appropriate bolt in the brake line opening and put a grease gun on the bleed nipple. Again, hold the pucks that move in place and pump in the grease. The grease will force the puck out, but will also fill your caliper with grease, that you will then have to clean out. Hope this give you some ideas. Standard disclaimers apply, your mileage may vary, etc. Good luck! Paul
  15. Tupperj
    Jeremy, Yep, I had quite the FrankenForks on the bike. Should be much better now, as I've scavenged some upper tubes from a MkI and put pretty much all new wear parts in the forks. When I broke down the MkI's I put the original equipment springs next to the mystery springs and the Progressives. Quite the stairstep! Tomorrow, we seat the fork seals, new steering head bearings (AND RACES Dan! ) and I should be good to go. Well, good to go to find out why the bikes shuts down while riding, and why it doesn't want to restart. But that's another post. Or two! Thanks! Paul
  16. Tupperj
    George, Great minds think alike! Already have the steering head bearing in hand, the Progressive are ready when things go back together, the 15wt fork oil is on the shelf and the SuperBrace clone has already been fitted. As someone else mentioned (sorry, short term memory is lousy!) I'll be cannibalizing a set of MkI forks I picked up a while back. I'd really like to get this beast back on the road and get to chasing down whatever gremlins the PO has left for me! Paul
  17. Tupperj
    Thanks everyone for the comments. I agree that there are some safety concerns here, and I want to make sure I do this right. I'm on the lookout for a set of replacements. Oddly enough, I have a replacement MkI set but not a MkII. Think I just missed a set of those from Hess4less. Just to clarify things a bit, I got the digital camera back and here are some pics. Assuming they stay in order: 1. The handlebar pinch bolts, as I found them when I removed the cruise control unit. Not a confidence builder. 2. Comparison of the springs that were in the bike with the Progressives that are going in. You can see the big conduit spacer on the far left. 3. This is looking "up" into the upper fork tube, as it would be assembled. You can see the white plastic notched piece that seems to be stuck in there. I can feel what seems to be a metal washer "above" it, once again as it would be assembled. 4. Side view of the upper tube. I can see some sort of metal washer partially blocking the oil passage. Just don't think it's supposed to be there. Hopefully that helps the collective wisdom. I'm going to mess with it some more today and I'll let you all know of any changes or additional info. Thanks for the help! Paul
  18. Tupperj
    Evening all, I come in search of knowledge and advice. I'm rebuilding the forks on an 89 MkII and I've run into some oddities. Quick background, someone previously has been into the bike who shouldn't have. When I went to take the handlebars off, both pinch bolts were backed way out. There are other things like this with the bike. So, I create a tool to disassemble the forks (worked well, cheap, write up to follow if anyone is interested.) and got things separated. The bottoms of these forks have been beat to death! The hole in the bottom that the allen bolt should come out of was so mangled that judicious use of a dremel tool was necessary to get the bolt all the way out. Once everything was apart, it appears I have some issues. 1. I appear to be missing the tapered spindle, part #26H-23173-00-00 from one side. What the heck? I've looked everywhere, don't THINK I could have lost it, but maybe. 2. And this is where I could use some guidance. There are still some parts "stuck" in the bottom of the upper fork tube. I can see and feel what looks like a white plastic notched or "castellated" washer type part, and there appear to be some parts "above" that. I've tried some judicious tapping with an appropriately sized socket to drive them out, but don't want to use too much force on these parts. 3. Neither fork as, as far as I can find, the two washers #26H-2319L-00-00 or the single valve spring #26H-2319M-00-00. I'm wondering if the forks could have been assembled improperly, and now those parts are jammed in the bottom of the fork tube. 4. The fork springs that were in the bike are about 75% of the length of the Progressives I'm replacing them with. I'll post pics, but the difference is ridiculous. The forks had absolutely no pre-load on them whatsoever, even with some gargantuan spaces made out of electrical conduit. So, should I continue to try to get the parts out of the bottom of the upper fork tube, or are they supposed to be where they are? I'm really thinking they need to come out, but would like other opinions. Thanks everyone! Paul
  19. Tupperj
    Iowa Guy, I've used the RAM mount for my GPS, I use the ball mount that bolts to the front master cylinder. All you need is longer bolts and the mount snugs right up. The rest of the RAM system works great, holds the GPS steady over bumps and I can angle it however I want. Also, with the wingnut that tightens things down, it's easy to take the unit off and lock it up when I stop. Paul
  20. Tupperj
    I think it's been mentioned before, but if you're looking for a sheepskin for your seat, and you have an Ikea store close by, they have them for $20. They look to be a great size for a bike seat, and the one by us has a good sized bin you can look through to find one you like. Paul
  21. Tupperj
    JT, I'm not sure there's enough detail there to blow up. Looks like a petcock? What are you needing to accomplish, maybe there's another way to get there? Sorry, Paul
  22. Tupperj
    Haven't checked the main fuse yet, good idea. Thanks! Paul
  23. Tupperj
    Yeah, I forgot to mention I have already upgrade the fuses, sorry about that. I will double check the battery connections, could well have missed tightening one down. Yep, larger gauge wires. I took over that gig from Squidley. The battery is an AGM, but I have another one in an 84, will change that out and see what shakes out. Thanks for the input! Paul
  24. Tupperj
    Should have mentioned that I have replaced the main fuse block with spades. Been stranded before by old barrel fuses. Will start the disconnection, cleaning, di-electric process once the grad stuff is done. Thanks! Paul
  25. Tupperj
    Four individual coils. Don't suspect them, since there are four and the bikes doesn't sputter, just dies. Will add to the list though. Thanks! Paul
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