Jump to content

Sunman

Banned Members
  • Posts

    231
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Sunman

  1. Clunking does not sound good. I know mine positively shifts into first gear, more with a firm CLICK. But a clunking, sounds like a loose part issue to me. If the bike is brand new, maybe it is just a settling issue? I have never had the experience you sound like you are having. I have an 06 RSTD, basically same bike, just faster . I am sure that the more experienced members here will have some answers, questions, suggestions, tests, trials, tribulations, puzzlement, advice and such, in a very short time. And I will bet within 5 posts, someone suggests you change your oil!
  2. I actually might be able to attend this. But I will not know for sure till Thursday. I would love to hook up with anybody heading that way.
  3. Reiny, you might want to take the cage anyways, or park your bike down the road....way down the road and hike to Bobs!!!:rotf:I'm just sayin..
  4. I am surprised, that this has 2 pages, and no one has posted a link to the site yet? Or any resources to buy this product? Somebody is slipping . If you are putting them in with a new tire, could you not just toss the beads in before mounting? Or do you have to add them through a valve stem for some reason? Sounds like a property of physics that this product uses, to find the lightest spot on the tire. Do these beads balance the tires by themselves, or just supplement regular lead weight balances?
  5. I have some questions that I cannot find reference to in any articles so far. I just did my spring maintainence, oil, filter and final drive oil. I am really glad that I got the Carbon 1 lift adaptor, it made my life so much easier, doing all this by myself. With the bike still on the side stand, I drained the oil, and removed the old oil filter. This is the first question What exactly is that "rectifier" piece that blocks the oil filter at the front? What a pain in the ass that is, and could they not have given us like 1/2 inch more, so we could get a socket on the cap for the oil filter? The manual says to take it off to get access to the oil filter, but I just manage with a strap type oil filter wrench, although that is a pain as well. Well, I bought a new yamaha oil filter (last time I do that $14, they can kiss my ) Well I have a case of 10-40 oil from a friend, no friction modifiers. I also had about a litre of 20-50 left in a 4L jug of yamalube (first oil change) and a litre of 10-40 yamalube (second oil change) so I just tossed them both in (waste not want not) and topped off with the penzzoil 10-40. Second question, Does anyone think that mixing the viscosities, and oils will affect anything? I just didn't want to waste that oil. I guess I am a cheap ass when you get right down to it. I changed the oil filter, and put the plug with new crush gasket ($2 for that. Does anyone know of a better place to buy them?) Then I took off my left saddle bag, easy job thanks to Dragerman and the hand tightening bolts he gave me. Then I drained the final drive oil. I changed it last year too, I don't think that it can be changed too often can it? The drain bolt had what appeared to be some kind of grease all over it, I wiped it clean and re-installed it. 3rd question, was I supposed to add some kind of grease to the plug? I then affixed my lift adaptor to the bike, and jacked it up. Carbon 1 lift adaptor worked flawlessly. I affixed the legs to the adaptor, and removed my jack. Now I set to refilling all the fluids I drained. With the bike level and upright, was a breeze. First I filled the rear end drive oil. I filled it to the bottom of the fill hole using an oil syringe I got at walmart. It just did not seem to be as much as I put in last time. So I spun the rear wheel by hand in neutral. The oil got sucked up in the drive, I left it for a bit with the wheel stopped, and very slowly the oil level was visible again at the bottom of the fill bolt hole. I spun it again, and when the level dropped, I added more oil maybe 50 ml more, and put the plug back in quickly and tightened. Question 4, will overfilling the final drive a bit, cause me any problems? I filled the engine oil as well, no problems there, and checking the level was a breeze. Usually that is the biggest pain for me, doing it by myself. So, any answers to my silly questions?
  6. I have had the Zumo 550 for almost a year now. I love it for sure. If you do decide to get the zumo, or want more info to make your decision, please check www.zumoforums.com a great resource for apps and info. Garmin support is fantastic, and I have always had good luck with them. I would also like to point out that there is a newer model of zumo called the 660. Bigger screen, and more features as I can tell. Just wanted to toss that in as well.
  7. This is one of the reasons that I bought the Carbon one lift adapter with the legs. I can set the bike down, fill the oil and rear-end gear oil and the bike is level, with no helpers. Another reason to get in touch with him. I am planning on using it for the first time next week for fluid changes.
  8. I saw this first gen @ 7:25 PM, April 23, 2009 at the top of the 403 hill in Ancaster, downbound. I was in my cage. Does this look like you? Short video, but have a look. Do you know this person?
  9. This is simple misdirection. When you told the tale, you added the $2 to the $27 and coming up with $29. The total spent, was actually 3 X $9=(Room $25 + $2 Bellboy) Nice try! Yes, I am THAT guy
  10. Charlie's carb covers arrived shortly after this post, delivered to my door, delivered by me to Charlie, and installed. They look sharp, and I think Charlie is happy!
  11. That was quite ingenious, my hats off to you. Finding compatible parts and accessories is quite the challenge sometimes. Nice job!
  12. No problem shipping to us at all. But may I suggest, you specifically request they ship via USPS, NOT UPS. UPS charges up to $45 for brokerage fees to collect the GST and PST on items over $20 US. USPS charges $5. When you order, you can call them (205-921-7777) and ask for Bill. Tell him Sonny from Ontario sent ya. See this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34075 for one of my experiences dealing with them Or even better, get to know one of our members south of the border, send the stuff to their place, ride down to visit, and put your parts on there. And of course declare all the new parts to Canada Customs when you return. (The last statement was solely for the benefit of any Canada Customs officers who may be browsing the site )
  13. Thanks for all the conversions Brad. I just checked my receipt, and when I filled up, I added 17.142 Litres of regular gas. (4.528 US Gallons) So if my calculations are correct, that would mean that I got about 23 MPG. However, when I filled up, I was at almost empty, my low fuel (2 bar) indicator has just come on, so I probably have about a gallon more fuel left in my tank than I did when I filled up. So, adjusting for that gallon (give or take) I would estimate my MPG to be 30.1. I still think it sucks. I am used to 275-300 out of a full tank. so 170 makes me mad. I really want to test this at my normal speeds. If I can get my regular mileage back, I will attribute the poor fuel economy to a combination of my windscreen and my speed.
  14. I had a look at that part, and I have no idea how you mounted it. The luggage rack for the RSTD is designed to keep the quick release function of the passenger backrest intact. 2 clips and the backrest and luggage rack are off. The item you suggested looks like it bolts to the fender in 3 places. I would like to see a pic of your installation if you have one. Cheers!
  15. $115.00 From Motorsports Super Center http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/pages/catalogs/detail/26/203/403/20544/1/0/0/1/4/90/68/330/rear-luggage-rack.aspx I have ordered many things from them, great prices. Service you can rely on. Sonny
  16. I had a real shock today. I have a 2006 RSTD and I do 95% of my riding with no windshield. That was one of the reasons I got it. I like the bare cruiser look most of the time. Today I knew I was going to be doing a straight highway run, so I thought I would put the shield on, and take a nice easy ride. Well, I have put almost 1000 K on the bike in the last 3 days, and just like last year, I was getting about 280 - 300 KM out of a tank. Well, today on my ride I filled up, reset my fuel odometer on my Garmin 550 as usual and reset my low fuel indicator. 170 KM later, my Garmin shows just under half tank, and my fuel gauge on the bike is on low fuel indicator again. This is the worst fuel economy I have had since the bike was new. Now, I was also going faster than my normal rides, where I generally stick to the back roads, and keep it between 80 and 90 KM/H. I had the cruise set at 114 (by garmin, 122 by speedo) my first thought was that the windscreen caused this horrible mileage. I will have to check it again, with the windscreen off. I know that I rode with the windscreen on last year to North bay, which is about 5 hours, and I do not recall the mileage being that bad, but again, most of the highways are 80 KM/h limit, where I do 90ish. Anyone else found this kind of bad mileage with the windscreen?
  17. Has anyone ever had this happen to them after reversing the pads? If so, I would be interested to hear about it. This is something that I never considered. But I did figure that if the members here reccommend something, that none of them have had bad experiences with it. I don't think anyone would ever suggest something that is unsafe.
  18. Just flipped my rear pads for the first time with 12,000 KM on them. I was over at Dragerman's place where I stopped in during a nice ride. We decided to swap out my old saddlebag bolts for his new hand bolts. While we were doing that, we started talking about the rear brakes. Well, since the bolts were out, figured we could take the bag off, and have a look at the brakes. Lots of pad left, but definately more wear on the inside pad than the outboard. I got a great lesson on how to change the pads, and swapped them in to out. I also learned a good lesson on trying to keep that spring in place when pulling the pins. The thing jumped up and scared the crap out of me. I did notice a greatly different feel in braking after the swap, and I attribute that to the pads being switched over. The wear was always in one direction previously, now it is the opposite. Also, if the pads wear on an angle, then there will be less of a contact area untill they wear to the point that maximum pad is making contact with the rotor again. Just going to take it easy for a while, and make sure they seat well again. And soon I am off for another day of riding.
  19. I would suggest that you don't rely on that leather lace to keep your bell secure for very long. A nice nylon zip tie will do the trick. Keep your bell around longer.
  20. For what it is worth, I would never let anyone test ride any bike of mine. There are very few people that I would let ride my bike period, let alone a stranger. Dealerships do not allow test rides of motorcycles. However, the manufacturers do have "Test Ride Days" where they have a tractor trailer of every bike they make, which can all be ridden on a huge group ride, you sign the waiver, prove you are licensed, and off you go. I have lead and run sweep on a few of these rides for Yamaha, and our local dealers. I bought my 2006 RSTD without ever riding it. Mind you, I did ride an RSTD and Venture previously at Test Ride Days. I would go out of my way to take the bike to a potential buyers mechanic, but no test rides. Let's be honest, what good is test ride, when what you really want to know is what kind of condition the bike is in. Test rides only tell that they run, and function, things like cracked, bent frames, blown engine components, previous misuse etc, would not "neccesarily" become evident on a test ride. I strongly urge you to also contact your insurance company, I would almost bet that if you allow someone to test ride your bike, and they crash it (their fault or not) you would not be covered.
  21. So where would you suggest I look for this stuff? A marine store? Do you think I could glue it right to the chrome?
  22. See, that sounds like a better made piece. Is that a Yamaha OEM accessory? I guess I got one of the first design then. Thanks for letting me know there is a better alternative.
  23. Here you go. I can certainly reccommend this site, and their service. So far at least. Here is the direct link, I think it should work for you. http://www.motorsportssupercenter.com/pages/catalogs/detail/26/198/398/20128/1/0/0/1/4/90/68/330/billet-brake-pedal-cover.aspx
  24. Well, with all the nice weather approaching, and plans for rides in the making, I was checking over my bike, looking for anything amiss. And I found it. In reality it is not a big deal, but I will tell you what it is. I have been trying to dress up my 2006 RSTD since I bought it new last year. I have added many chrome bits, for safety reasons of course. ISO grips, LED tail light, chrome shifter pegs etc. And a chrome rear brake pedal. You can see the attached picture. It is chrome, with 3 rubber strips for traction. Well, 1 of the rubber strips has come off, and is lost and most likely lonely and scared along the side of some random road in Ontario. I noticed this today. I checked the other 2 strips, and they are hanging on by the slightest of threads it feels like. I will certainly have to remove them before my next ride. Now, the brake pedal will still function without the rubber strips I am sure. But here is the thing. I went to check the site that I bought the pedal from, to see if they still had them in stock, I was going to complain, and ask for a replacement, or see if it qualified for warranty. But I noticed something. On the same page the pedal is listed on, there are replacement rubber strips and glue available. What strikes me is, the rubber is NOT designed to fall off I am sure, but it happens so often, that they sell replacements, should Yamaha not redesign it so that this common problem is solved, rather than "re-sell" a fix? Do you know what I mean? It is clear from the 1 missing piece, that the adhesive does NOT stick to the highly polished chrome coating. If I do decide to buy replacements, do you think I should just scuff up the area covered by the rubber with a dremel or is there a better way to adhere it? I am going to remove the other rubber pieces later, and who knows, maybe I will like the look of solid chrome. I am not sure if I will noticed the lower traction, but I cannot see my foot slipping off the brake pedal. What do you think I should do? Ask for a replacement, or just suck it up and buy the replacement rubbers and glue? Sonny
  25. I really think this whole thing was a colossal waste of time. I have sent numerous emails to the company asking about Canadian distribution, not even 1 reply. I even went so far today to call their NY number, which can't receive calls (meaning someone didn't pay their cell phone bill I think) Absolutely no customer service. I had really high hopes for this product, and was looking forward to reporting on it. Now I think I understand why not even 1 member here had any reviews of it. I don't think anyone could buy them. I am really disappointed. Oh well, guess regular Avon Venoms are in my future.
×
×
  • Create New...