Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'water'.
-
I LOVE MY JOB! If you don't laugh out loud after you read this you are in a coma! This is even funnier when you realize it's real! Next time you have a bad day at work think of this guy. Bob is a commercial saturation diver for Global Divers in Louisiana . He performs underwater repairs on offshore drilling rigs. Below is an E-mail he sent to his sister. She then sent it to radio station 103.5 FM in Indiana, who was sponsoring a worst job experience contest. Needless to say, she won. ~Hi Sue, Just another note from your bottom-dwelling brother. Last week I had a bad day at the office. I know you've been feeling down lately at work, so I thought I would share my dilemma with you to make you realize it's not so bad after all. Before I can tell you what happened to me, I first must bore you with a few technicalities of my job. As you know, my office lies at the bottom of the sea. I wear a suit to the office. It's a wet suit. This time of year the water is quite cool. So what we do to keep warm is this: We have a diesel powered industrial water heater. This $20,000 piece of equipment sucks the water out of the sea. It heats it to a delightful temperature. It then pumps it down to the diver through a garden hose, which is taped to the air hose. Now this sounds like a darn good plan, and I've used it several times with no complaints. What I do, when I get to the bottom and start working, is take the hose and stuff it down the back of my wet suit. This floods my whole suit with warm water. It's like working in a Jacuzzi. Everything was going well until all of a sudden, my butt started to itch. So, of course, I scratched it. This only made things worse. Within a few seconds my ass started to burn. I pulled the hose out from my back, but the damage was done. In agony I realized what had happened. The hot water machine had sucked up a jellyfish and pumped it into my suit. Now, since I don't have any hair on my back, the jellyfish couldn't stick to it, however, the crack of my ass was not as fortunate.. When I scratched what I thought was an itch, I was actually grinding the jellyfish into the crack of my ass. I informed the dive supervisor of my dilemma over the communicator. His instructions were unclear due to the fact that he, along with five other divers, were all laughing hysterically. Needless to say, I aborted the dive. I was instructed to make three agonizing in-water decompression stops totaling thirty-five minutes before I could reach the surface to begin my chamber dry decompression. When I arrived at the surface, I was wearing nothing but my brass helmet. As I climbed out of the water, the medic, with tears of laughter running down his face, handed me a tube of cream and told me to rub it on my butt as soon as I got in the chamber. The cream put the fire out, but I couldn't **** for two days because my ass was swollen shut. So, next time you're having a bad day at work, think about how much worse it would be if you had a jellyfish shoved up your ass. Now repeat to yourself, 'I love my job, I love my job, I love my job.' Whenever you have a bad day, ask yourself, is this a jellyfish bad day? May you NEVER have a jellyfish bad day! !!!! Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. ~
-
For those that missed MD thought you'd be interested in who got who this year. See the boss thought he was gonna get me, but he asked Big Tom to help him. So he kinda got himself. Nope no ice water or buckets involved just T-shirts. That's this year anyway. Wait for next year. Of course I'm not gonna be involved, I'm gonna be a good girl. Now to wait and see what actually happens. Margaret
-
ok after getting parts from members on here and working in a hot storage shed i put the radiator and hoses back on the bike. just not sure how tight i got everything? i dont have much feeling in one of my hands i got all the clamps tight i hope? now just a quick and maybe dumb question? is it safe to test just useing water instead of anitfreeze? i can drain the water witht he drain valve if all looks good after the test and replace with proper antifeeze. as the cost of antifreeze just to watch it hit the floor can be a little bit expensive when your unemployed and on social security....
-
Rob is a commercial saturation diver for Global Divers in Louisiana . He performs underwater repairs on offshore drilling rigs. Below is an E-mail he sent to his sister. She then sent it to radio station 103.2 FM in Ft. Wayne , Indiana , who was sponsoring a worst job experience contest. Needless to say, she won. Hi Sue, Just another note from your bottom-dwelling brother. Last week I had a bad day at the office. I know you've been feeling down lately at work, so I thought I would share my dilemma with you to make you realize it's not so bad after all. Before I can tell you what happened to me, I first must bore you with a few technicalities of my job. As you know, my office lies at the bottom of the sea. I wear a suit to the office. It's a wet suit. This time of year the water is quite cool. So what we do to keep warm is this: We have a diesel powered industrial water heater. This $20,000 piece of equipment sucks the water out of the sea. It heats it to a delightful temperature. It then pumps it down to the diver through a garden hose, which is taped to the air hose. Now this sounds like a darn good plan, and I've used it several times with no complaints. What I do, when I get to the bottom and start working, is take the hose and stuff it down the back of my wet suit. This floods my whole suit with warm water. It's like working in a Jacuzzi. Everything was going well until all of a sudden, my butt started to itch. So, of course, I scratched it. This only made things worse. With in a few seconds my butt started to burn. I pulled the hose out from my back, but the damage was done. In agony, I realized what had happened. The hot water machine had sucked up a jellyfish and pumped it into my suit. Now, since I don't have any hair on my back, the jellyfish couldn't stick to it. However, the crack of my butt was not as fortunate. When I scratched what I thought was an itch, I was actually grinding the jellyfish into the crack of my butt. I informed the dive supervisor of my dilemma over the communicator. His instructions were unclear due to the fact that he, along with five other divers, were all laughing hysterically. Needless to say I aborted the dive. I was instructed to make three agonizing in-water decompression stops totaling thirty-five minutes before I could reach the surface to begin my chamber dry decompression. When I arrived at the surface, I was wearing nothing but my brass helmet. As I climbed out of the water, the medic, with tears of laughter running down his face, handed me a tube of cream and told me to rub it on my butt as soon as I got in the chamber. The cream put the fire out, but I couldn't poop for two days because my butt was swollen shut. So, next time you're having a bad day at work, think about how much worse it would be if you had a jellyfish shoved up your butt. Now repeat to yourself, 'I love my job, I love my job, I love my job.' Now whenever you have a bad day, ask yourself, is this a jellyfish bad day? May you NEVER have a jellyfish bad day...!
-
I know there are mixed reviews on here, but... Friday, I changed out the coolant in my '03 RSV. When I was refilling it, I first added a half bottle of Water Wetter, that I purchased from Auto Zone. I then filled the system with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. We went on a good ride yesterday, and the bike is actually running 20 degrees cooler than it was. I am very happy with it. Some may say Water Wetter does nothing, but I believe what I am seeing. I have a temp gauge on my bike, and it is definitely running 20 degrees cooler. http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10
-
I bought a new Barons V4 Water Pump Cover and replaced the stock cover, using a new o-ring, and it leaked when starting. I tightened it down more but still leaked. So I got another new o-ring and reinstalled again today, making sure I got it seated properly. After torquing per the book (7.2 ft/lb) and refilling radiator, it leaked again. I tightened the screws down a bit more (10 ft/lb) & it still weeps. I've got 1 more o-ring left so am thinking of putting the stock piece back on again. Just wondering if anyone else with this V4 cover had any leaks? And wondering how tight do I dare torque those bolts in? Also, what's the normal water temp if the bike's been sitting at idle for 5 minutes?
-
Water pump drain bolt. If you have a Method other than loosening pipes pardon for the redundancy. I cut a 17mm socket down to an inch and cut the head off of a an old 2 stroke plug wrench, good steel, 1/8" thick, 6" long, welded the flat metal to the top of the socket and it works like a charm. bf -
I hope there is an easy answer to an easy question. What is the normal water temp of an RSV? At what temp should the fan come on? Thanks all:bowdown: KB
-
Ok, ya looked. I figured the way you guys follow Beavers advantures you'd jump all over that header. But.....I was digging in a couple of those old boxes that seem to follow you around for years that contain things that you keep for no reason and I did find something that I used to love but is was lost track of for years, actually decades and I like to find it again. It took me a while to figure out what is was but when I did I started jonesing for more. Many moons ago, like in the mid 70's I was at a car show and ran across a different kind of car wax. It came in a plastic tub and was in a powder form. You would take a damp cloth and dip it in the powder and apply it like a paste. The thing was that it did not let water bead up like a regular wax. After you finished applying it you could throw a bucket of water on the car and it would simply run off in a sheet. Not a spot to be seen. The effect was rather interesting when I would use RainX on the window also. People used to stop and look at the car when it was raining out because it looked like it was dry. You could see the rain drops hit and splash but then.....nothing. No beaded water, no spots and when it dried there were no water marks. Sadly the tub is now so worn and faded I can read nothing on it. What powder is left is a solid, hard as nails chunk. Maybe if I throw it in the blender.....? Sure would like to find out if it is still available. Only time I ever saw it for sale was at the car show. Never in a store, car mags or even offered on TV! But that was way before those fantastic infomercials were there to guide in our purchases. Anybody ran across a product like this? As the kind of guy that would rather ride the bike than clean it..........see where I'm going with this........it would be great for bike. Mike
-
Rebuilt the water pump on my 89 Venture over the weekend. Everything went well until I started the bike. Now I have a steady stream of water while the motorcycle is running. The water is exiting the weep hole. There is only one seal inside the pump. Any ideas on what I did wrong? -
The U. S. S... Constitution (Old Ironsides), as a combat vessel, carried 48,600 gallons of fresh water for her crew of 475 officers and men. This was sufficient to last six months of sustained operations at sea. She carried no evaporators (i.e. fresh water distillers). However, let it be noted that according to her ship's log, "On July 27, 1798, the U.S.S. Constitution sailed from Boston with a full complement of 475 officers and men, 48,600 gallons of fresh water, 7,400 cannon shot, 11,600 pounds of black powder and 79,400 gallons of rum." Her mission: "To destroy and harass English shipping." Making Jamaica on 6 October, she took on 826 pounds of flour and 68,300 gallons of rum. Then she headed for the Azores , arriving there 12 November.. She provisioned with 550 pounds of beef and 64,300 gallons of Portuguese wine. On 18 November, she set sail for England . In the ensuing days she defeated five British men-of-war and captured and scuttled 12 English merchant ships,salvaging only the rum aboard each. By 26 January, her powder and shot were exhausted. Nevertheless, although unarmed she made a night raid up the Firth of Clyde in Scotland . Her landing party captured a whisky distillery and transferred 40,000 gallons of single malt Scotch aboard by dawn. Then she headed home. The U. S. S. Constitution arrived in Boston on 20 February 1799, with no cannon shot, no food, no powder, no rum, no wine, no whisky, and 38,600 gallons of water. GO NAVY! ****************************
-
Two years ago my basement flooded ruining everything we had stored....First time it ever happened to us after living here 22 years.....Well, Taters went to do the laundry this morning around 10am and Yep, 3 inches of water in my basement.....Sump pump was running but nothing pumping out. AAAARRRRGGGG!!!!.............. I quickly ran to the hardware and purchased a new sump pump and started pumping out the water.....Got it pumped out in about 5 hours (the last time it took 2 pumps and took around 9 hours).. I got the new pump installed and now have the fans going along with the dehumidifier....At least this time it didn't ruin the washer or dryer and I still have my hot water tank and furnace working..........I can only imagine what could have happened if Taters didn't go down into the basement......You see, we don't store anything down there anymore and other than Taters washing we don't have any reason to go into the basement....Ahhh life is grand....Its these little things that happen in our daily living that makes me feel alive.........The good news is that Taters got her new living room set delivered right in the middle of this FIASCO!!!! AHHHHHHH!!! AIN'T LIFE GRAND.... :fnd_(16):
-
Got Frog Toggs Got rain liner for my Tourmaster jacket Got water proof wind pants and Got water proof/repelent Vega boots But have never seen mentioned water proof gloves. What is available?
-
Hello to all. I am in a great need for some help. I live in NC and with the cold weather we have had and me starting a new job I have not had alot of time to ride my bike. I have a 2000 MM and I went out to start it up and I was letting it run since it has been cold. I went out to check on it and noticed a large cloud of smoke coming from underneath the motor and then I looked under the motor and noticed water pouring out of the bottom. I was wondering if anyone on here would have suggestions as to what the problem is. Thank you in advance for the help that I will receive with this issue. Hopefully it will not cost me alot of
-
This would be a fun toy to have. http://www.fighterpilotuniversity.com/index.cfm/2010/11/1/Fighter-Pilot-Water-Toy
-
I put the bike up on the lift to do an oil change and noticed staining around and below the weep hole on the water pump. I've read a few threads that mention replacing the impeller with a metal one. Can someone point me to a supplier that carries the necessary parts?
-
I've had this article hanging around for some time, so I figured I'd post it, maybe someone here is brave enough to anodize their cylinder head covers? I don't remember where I originally got it from, but I made some changes to it myself, and so far so good! Supplies Needed: The first thing to do is to get the following things together: First on the list is the most expensive item: a 6 to 12 volt battery charger. They run from $45.00 to $110.00 depending on model, functions, etc. The next item, though not that expensive, will take some effort to find: battery electrolyte, a.k.a. sulfuric acid. This should be available at a battery wholesaler for about $2.00/gal. AutoZone sells it for $5.00, but it's only enough to fill a scoot battery. To make the negative ground, you will need some aluminum ground wire and aluminum-foil. The wire can be found at an electronics store for about $35/spool, and you should have the foil in the kitchen. If you happen to be out of foil, you can pick up some more at the store when you go to buy the last item for this project. No super-special chemicals or solutions necessary to make the colors; just plain-old fabric dye. (Something like Rit dye, for about $5.00.) Rit offers something like 30-40 different colors, so you have quite a number of choices for what color you want your parts to be. If you want to go hard-core, you can order anodizing dye online. An optional item is nitric acid: about $25.00/2.5 L. (This is used to clean parts prior to anodizing, but there are some cheaper alternatives. See end notes.) This is available at chemical supply stores. Should you not be able to find any, you can try to get on the good side of the high school science teacher. He may help you out since you only need a few ounces. Safety Precautions: There are a few precautions I want to go over to help keep you from blowing up the house or trashing the garage. First of all, do not mix or store your anodizing solution in a glass container. Something could happen to make it break, and most households are not equipped to deal with that kind of spill. You also don't want to knock over the container, so a stable, rubber bucket makes a good choice. You will also need to be certain that the part you want to color will fit in the container without sticking out of the solution, and without touching the negative ground in the bottom of the container. Any acid that you don't use, keep in what it came in, or an old plastic bottle, like a bleach bottle. You can also store your used solution this way for doing more parts later. (Make sure that there is absolutely no bleach left in the bottle. Acid and bleach make chlorine gas. Very bad. Don't breathe. Poisonous.) Safety also applies to the nitric acid, but in a different way. It is imperative that you label and keep track of this stuff, as it is a stronger acid than sulfuric, and more dangerous. The breakage/spill problem is not as likely since you won't have that much around. (Unless you bought more than a few ounces from the chem store.) The last note about the acids is to mix properly when adding acid and water. Always pour acid into water, never the other way, and do so slowly, being sure to mix in well. There is a reaction taking place and it releases a lot of energy. During the anodizing process, you will be running electricity through a weak acid solution. This creates hydrogen (just like charging a battery) which is very flammable. This stuff burns at the speed of thought when ignited, so do be careful. (Read as Remember the Hindenburg?) Make certain that there is some way to ventilate the project area, and DO NOT let any sources of ignition (NO SMOKING) near the project area. Other precautions you should take include safety glasses, rubber gloves, and maybe some sort of drop sheet under the area. Preparations: One of the most essential things you need to do in order to get even color over the whole part is to be sure that the part is absolutely clean. You want it free of all contaminates, from dirt to the oils in your skin. This is where the nitric acid and some rubber gloves will help. A solution of 1-2 ounces of nitric acid in a gallon of distilled water will allow you to clean the surface in preparation for the anodizing. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly when exposed to air, so the easiest way to keep it clean is to clean it just before you are ready to start working on the piece. (You should rinse the part with distilled water before you put it in the next acid solution.) Other options are carburetor or brakes cleaners, or other similar degreasers. Soap and water will work also, or cleaners like Simple Green. These are cheaper, a nitric acid wash is the best. (You decide, it's your money.) =) Make your negative ground with the aluminum wire and foil. Shape the end of the wire into a paddle shape and cover the round part with the foil. What you want to do is create a flat, round shape to sit on the bottom of the bucket, with a lead that comes up the side, and out of the bucket. You will clip the battery charger's negative lead to the wire that comes out of the bucket. When you are ready to start, you will want to mix up your immersion solution. In your rubber bucket, combine the sulfuric acid and water to come up with a solution that is about 30% water. (1 part water to 2 parts acid.) Place the paddle in the bucket and attach the negative lead. Then attach the positive lead to the part, making it an anode, and immerse it in the solution. (Remember that the two leads the paddle (cathode), and the part (anode) should not touch.) This is the best time to turn on the charger: once the part begins to fizz, leave it in there for about 10-15 minutes. After about this time the part should no longer conduct electricity. (You can also use an ohmmeter to check conductivity, but this is not needed.) Turn off and disconnect everything, and rinse the part in cold water. Don't use hot water! You'll find out why in the next section. A couple of notes: I have read some other procedures that say it is important that the copper lead from the charger does not enter the acid solution. The article says nothing about this, and shows a picture with the lead right in there. It may take some trial and error to find out if this is a problem. It wouldn't be a bad idea to get some scrap aluminum and play with it before you start anodizing your parts. You can check out the above, as well as pick the colors you like best. If you test out some colors, you'll also learn just how long or short you need to work with the color solution. Color: So now it doesn't conduct electricity, and is ready for color. It's been rinsed and waits eagerly to change to a new look. Don't wait too long to do the color, due to that oxidizing thing again. You want to mix up a strong solution of dye and water, in a container that can be heated. The solution needs to be at low heat, such as on the stove, so bread and cake pans work well. Again, you need something that will fit the whole part, but it's okay if it touches the bottom this time. I would recommend turning parts every few minutes just to make sure that you get all-over color. Inform your mom or wife that the pan can (and will be) washed out. It is important that the heat be low enough. If the solution gets too hot, you will seal the surface, and it will no longer take any color. (See, told you to rinse it in cold water!) Leave it in the dye until the part is slightly darker than you want it. The next step is to seal the surface of the metal in clean, boiling water. This will leech a bit of color from it, thus the slightly darker color in the previous step. End Notes: Also, this process is for aluminum. I don't know how, or if, it will work on other metals. (I doubt it.) Anodizing works great on billet, not so well on castings. If it was forged or machined, it should have the density to take color through this process. Something to consider when looking for a charger, is how many amperes it puts out. Without getting into any mumbo-jumbo, anodizing relies on 10 to 40 amperes per square foot. For small brackets and such, this is no problem. The larger parts however, may need the higher levels of amperes. The other note about part size, has to do with how long you leave it in the solution. Above it said 10-15 minutes, but that is for a smaller part. The larger parts may not only need higher amperes, but more time as well. I would recommend an ohmmeter, but again, I have one already. So there you have it. Quick, fairly easy, and not too expensive. If you don't have the charger, then your first anodizing session could cost as much as sending your parts out to be done. But, then you can do it again for much less. Or do your buddies stuff. Or talk them into chipping in on a setup for all of you to use. We all know ways to help make things cheaper. And the stupid statement required to cover myself... If you try this and something gets messed up, or someone gets hurt, you are on your own. Deal with it, you can't blame it on anyone else.
-
--- On Thu, 11/25/10, So true, so True. and a happy thanksgiving,before i forget lowell Subject: AAADD You have to be retired to appreciate this one. AAADD - KNOW THE SYMPTOMS Thank goodness there is a name for this disorder. Somehow I feel better even though I have it!! Recently, I was diagnosed with A.A.A.D.D. Age Associated Attention Deficit Disorder. This is how it manifests: I decide to water my garden. As I turn on the hose in the driveway, I look over at my car and decide it needs washing. As I start toward the garage, I notice mail on the porch table that I brought up from the mailbox earlier. I decide to go through the mail before I wash the car. I lay my car keys on the table, put the junk mail in the garbage can under the table, and notice that the can is full. Therefore, I decide to put the bills back on the table and take out the garbage first. Then I think, since I am going to be near the mailbox when I take out the garbage anyway, I may as well pay the bills first. I take my check book off the table, and see that there is only one check left. My extra checks are in my desk in the study, so I go inside the house to my desk where I find the can of Pepsi I had been drinking. I am going to look for my checks, but first I need to push the Pepsi aside so that I do not accidentally knock it over. The Pepsi is getting warm. I decide to put it in the refrigerator to keep it cold. As I head toward the kitchen with the Pepsi, A vase of flowers on the counter catches my eye. They need water. I put the Pepsi on the counter and discover my reading glasses that I have been searching for all morning. I decide I better put them back on my desk, but first I'm going to water the flowers. I set the glasses back down on the counter, fill a container with water and suddenly spot the TV remote someone had left it on the kitchen table. I realize that tonight when we go to watch TV, I'll be looking for the remote, but I won't remember that it's on the kitchen table, so I decide to put it back in the den where it belongs .. But first I'll water the flowers. I pour some water in the flowers. Quite a bit of it spills on the floor. So, I set the remote back on the table, Get some towels and wipe up the spill. Then I head down the hall trying to remember what I was planning to do. At the end of the day: The car isn't washed The bills aren't paid There is a warm can of Pepsi sitting on the counter the flowers don't have enough water, there is still only 1 check in my check book, I can't find the remote, I can't find my glasses, And I don't remember what I did with the car keys. Then, when I try to figure out why nothing got done, I'm really baffled because I know I was busy all day, and I'm really tired. I realize this is a serious problem, and I'll try to get some help for it, but first I'll check my e-mail.... Do me a favor. Forward this message to everyone you know, Because I don't remember who I've sent it to.. Don't laugh -- if this isn't you yet, your day is coming!!
-
.thumb.jpg.4e1b3809c4633f365ba67afc212f21df.jpg)
I thought I'd post a few comments for those who have not been through this before. It is not hard as long as you have the proper tools. T-handle allen wrenches are almost mandatory for me - they make turning out the many socket head screws fast and easy. In addition, if you follow the manual (Method #1 below), you really want a set of long ball-end 3/8" drive allen wrenches for use with your ratchet. If you follow the shop manual, the job is pretty straight forward, but you will have one frustrating surprise. I have detailed the full drain procedure first as Method #1, then two slightly modified procedures that some might prefer at the expense of not getting out quite as much of the old coolant. The first steps apply to all three methods: You start by removing the seat, tank, both lower fairings and all three battery covers. Don't forget to remove that top center #3 Philips screw on the middle cover; it is kind of hidden! The cover slips out to the left fairly easily, but you do need to watch down in the middle for hoses and wire bundles that will hang up on the corners. Now you are ready to begin draining the fluid. METHOD #1 - The Complete Drain: The radiator drain bolt is obvious on the bottom left, and getting the overflow tank out is pretty easy too. It is only held on by one bolt and a couple of lugs in rubber grommets. Just use your fingers to push that plastic shield above it up so you can pull the filler neck forward and out to the right side. Some folks prefer to siphon out the overflow tank instead of removing it, but I don't know why; taking it out is MUCH easier than messing with a siphon hose! (But you don't have to remove the center or left side battery covers if you are not going to remove the tank.) Note: If you remove the radiator cap before you take out the radiator drain bolt, the coolant will drain VERY fast with quite a bit of splashing; you may want to let it drain mostly on it's own before you take that cap off! Next you will want to pull the fake cylinder fins off and take out the rubber plugs; use an old spark plug to screw into the plug and pull it out. Each cylinder water jacket holds quite a bit of coolant - seemed like about 1/2 cup each but could have been less - and those fin covers pop off very quickly with a 5mm T-handle. Make sure you leave the right front cover off until you finish with the next step! The frustrating surprise will come when you try to drain the water pump. The drain plug is a 17mm plug angled forward in the bottom of the chrome water pump cover, right next to the bend in the header pipe. The service manual says absolutely nothing about this other than to just take out the plug. Good LUCK! Absolutely no way to get on it with normal tools unless you loosen the header pipe. The good news is that you don't have to actually remove the pipe, just loosen the clamp at the front of the Y joint and remove the two socket head nuts on the header clamp (this is where you will really appreciate the long ball-end allen wrenches for your ratchet!). Once the header pipe is loose enough to pull a bit to the outside near the floor board, it is easy to remove the drain plug with a normal 17mm socket and a wobble extension or u-joint. Now you are ready to put all the drain plugs back in and replace the fin covers (make sure to get that header pipe back in place before you put the right front cover on!). DO NOT over tighten the radiator drain plug - that is all plastic, and the torque spec is ONLY 22 inch pounds. Even with the proper torque wrench, that is so light you can't hardly tell it has clicked, so you could still easily over-tighten and damage it. To me, the right tightness seems to be about what you can do just with your hand on a long 3/8" extension WITHOUT the ratchet. That's it. Only thing left is to mix up 3.5 liters of 50/50 coolant and fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL line, then carefully fill the radiator to the top of the neck. Put the radiator cap back on and run the engine for a minute or so (plenty of fuel in the carbs to do this without the tank) to let the coolant settle, then top off the coolant at the radiator cap. Now put it all back together and take your bike out for a short ride to get the motor fully up to temperature and check for leaks. Then after it completely cools off, check the overflow tank and top up to the Full mark if necessary (if there were any air-pockets left when you filled the coolant, some of the fluid from the overflow tank will be sucked in as the engine cools). METHOD #2 - Skipping the Water Pump Drain (almost as good as #1): Several folks have said they prefer to just drain the radiator and try to flush the rest of the coolant out with distilled water (see posts below), so I include these corner-cutting options as Methods 2 & 3. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator. Now pull each of the fake fin covers and pop out that little rubber plug. You will notice that coolant that drains from each water jacket still seems bright green, showing the "flush" was incomplete (that's why you are still doing these plugs). With the radiator plug back in and the fin covers back on, it is time to refill with coolant. But this time you have left some distilled water or highly diluted coolant in the engine, so it is best to not use pre-mixed coolant. Add about 1.75 liters of straight coolant, some to the overflow tank (1/2 full) and the rest to the radiator. Now top up both with distilled water and run the engine for a minute to work out any air pockets, then re-top the radiator with distilled water. METHOD #3 - Short and Sweet and Hope For The Best: In this method you skip draining both the water pump AND the cylinder water jackets. You will be leaving some of the old coolant in there to mix with the new, but some folks find this OK. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator and flush it again just like above. After two flushes you probably noticed a much lighter green color to the water on the last drain, so it is time to add new coolant and button it all back up. But remember, not only are you leaving some water/coolant in the water pump, you are also leaving it in the water jackets too, so you need to use a lower amount of new coolant in the fill. My guess of the right mix would be to add only 1.25 liters of coolant and then top it all off with distilled water. That's it folks, all done for another couple of years! My personal choice is Method #1. Even with the need to loosen the header pipe, it really isn't that difficult, and it doesn't take any more time than adding the engine flushes on the other methods. But whichever method you use, it is certainly better than not changing it at all. So now that the maintenance is done, let's rack up some miles! Enjoy the ride! Goose -
A.A.A.D.D.. KNOW THE SYMPTOMS.....PLEASE READ! Thank goodness there's a name for this disorder. Somehow I feel better,even though I have it!! Recently, I was diagnosed with A.A.A.D.D. - Age Activated Attention Deficit Disorder. This is how it manifests: I decide to water my garden. As I turn on the hose in the driveway, I look over at my car and decide it needs washing. As I start toward the garage, I notice mail on the porch table that I brought up from the mail box earlier. I decide to go through the mail before I wash the car. I lay my car keys on the table, Put the junk mail in the waste basket under the table, And notice that the basket is full. So, I decide to put the bills back On the table and take out the rubbish first. But then I think, Since I'm going to be near the mailbox When I take out the rubbish anyway, I may as well pay the bills first. I take my cheque book off the table, And see that there is only one cheque left. My extra cheques are in my desk in the study, So I go inside the house to my desk where I find the can of Coke I'd been drinking. I'm going to look for my cheques, But first I need to push the Coke aside So that I don't accidentally knock it over.. The Coke is getting warm , And I decide to put it in the fridge to keep it cold. As I head toward the kitchen with the Coke, A vase of flowers on the counter Catches my eye--they need water. I put the Coke on the counter and Discover my reading glasses that I've been searching for all morning. I decide I better put them back on my desk, But first I'm going to water the flowers. I set the glasses back down on the counter, Fill a container with water and suddenly spot the TV remote. Someone left it on the kitchen table. I realize that tonight when we go to watch TV, I'll be looking for the remote, But I won't remember that it's on the kitchen table, So I decide to put it back in the den where it belongs, But first I'll water the flowers. I pour some water in the flowers, But quite a bit of it spills on the floor. So, I set the remote back on the table, Get some towels and wipe up the spill. Then, I head down the hall trying to Remember what I was planning to do. At the end of the day: The car isn't washed The bills aren't paid There is a warm can of Coke sitting on the counter The flowers don't have enough water, There is still only 1 cheque in my cheque book, I can't find the remote, I can't find my glasses, And I don't remember what I did with the car keys. Then, when I try to figure out why nothing got done today, I'm really baffled because I know I was busy all darn day, And I'm really tired.
-
Mr Clean Auto Dry Car wash is absolutely wonderful , I have to admit that I was very skeptical about this product, I give it a 10 out of 10 (Awesome) [ATTACH]44410[/ATTACH] First of all our water here in Iowa is extremely hard and you folks know what happens to chrome and the paint job if your not fast enough in drying, I have even tried using the soft-water out of the tap in the laundry room. even that will dry with salt left over. our water should be at about 3 grains PPM but it is around 55 Grains PPM Having said all that. I proceeded to wash my trike today and she turned out wonderful , just walk away and it will dry with no spots. but I could not help myself and had to try and dry it. what I liked is that you have till the end of time to wipe the chrome and plastic parts down with no spotting. I was so excited that I walked over and washed both our Cars as well. Guess what? NO HARD WATER SPOTS. simply walk away from the car. My other experiment that I have found and still need to try, is that you mix up a 1/2 cup of BORAX 20 Mule Team to 5 Gals of warm water and place your pressure washer siphon into the bucket, and rinse the car or bike with that. I am told that works very well also. The refiles for Mr Clean Auto Dry Car wash are kinda pricey. this item can be purchased at Walmart when in season and Target Stores and of course on-line. that is how I got mine. also do a a search and read the reviews, I think some do not follow the directions. it has its own soap as well. Just keep turning the dial. Just wanted to share this with you folks. Jeff
-
I have the engine out of my 83 VR now and the water outlets on the cylinder head are very rusted and look like they will give me problems in the near future. I want to replace them while they are easy to get to. They are not listed as a part on any Yamaha parts list. Has anyone replaced theirs and where did you get them? -
I am looking to get a direct vent type gas hot water heater. Most likely a 50 gallon. Does anyone here know what brands or features I should look for, or steer clear of? This is kind of what I am looking for. My house needs a new roof and the 30 year old gas hot water heater is the only thing using the chimney, so if I get a direct vent water heater then I can have the crumbling chimney taken down to below the roof line at the time they do the roof and save the cost of rebuilding the chimney or later patching the new roof. I am wide open for comments, suggestions or even snide remarks.
-
I have noticed when changing my final drive oil that it has been milky, is this normal for these bikes? The last 2 rides have been almost nothing but hard rain for at least 100 miles. Just wondering if there is a bad seal or is this normal, I have no oil leaking, but I know water will get anywhere.
-
Hey Charlie! It is still warm enough down here to stand in the water and go fishing!
.thumb.jpg.e030d8724ef3f2eadc94ab840d0f3801.jpg)
.thumb.jpg.176b2ebbe9863175975d94710375c414.jpg)
