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Showing results for tags 'tci'.
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I have a TCI that needs the diodes replaced. I have the diodes and was going to do it myself, but after loosing sight in my right eye, I am not comfortable trying to do it. My depth perception up close really sucks. I can open it up so you can get to both sides of the board if that will help. If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it. RandyA
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After a series of ignition issues I have most of them resolved. New plugs, plug caps and wires have made all the difference. I also removed and split the TCI. The diodes are in perfect condition so I left them alone. I re-flowed the solder in the pin headers and put it back together. The bike fires up, runs just fine right up to the red line. Before I did this I was having an issue of cylinder #2 not firing, and the tach behaving a little strangely. Cylinder #2 would quit, and the tach with it (sometimes). Now it's all back together the four cylinders are all playing nicely but the tachometer is dead. This may simply be a dead tachometer. What I was wondering is whether or not there is any way of testing the ouput on the grey wire from the TCI (tach signal). Is there anywhere else I should be looking too? Thanks
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I appear to be having an issue with Number 2 Cylinder. Gas mileage is not what I think it should be ... low thirties rather than at least high thirties, and I have long suspected that one or more cylinders isn't pulling it's weight. On a recent ride home of about 90 miles, the rev counter started misbehaving. It would be steady at 4000 then drop to zero for short periods, jumping again to 4000 rpm. That is entirely consistent with #2 Cyl. cutting out and in. From a cold start, the exhaust to #2 remains cold. It will start running once it's revved a bit, but it's inconsistent. So there clearly is an issue with that cylinder. It could be any one or more of a number of things and I'm happy enough to pull it apart to find out what. I plan to replace all the plugs, wires, plug caps as a matter of routine. I can easily diagnose a failed coil but I was wondering if I should be looking deeper than that. As I understand it the only other parts in the system are the TCI and the Pick-Up Coils. Does the failing Tach indicate anything that might pinpoint the problem? At the moment I am seriously considering the TCI upgrade too. I may well simply start by replacing the diodes in the original, but I can't help thinking that a long term fix is going to be the upgraded unit Dingy was selling. Any thoughts? -
My Venture won't start. I have spark on 1 and 3. Nothing on 2 or 4. I've swapped the coils around and the problem moved to 1 and 3 when I swapped the wiring from the TCI, so I know the coils are good. According to page 7-17 of the service manual, I'm supposed to have 110 ohms between the Orange and all the other wires coming off the pickups. I have 105 ohms between the Orange and red/white but 200+ ohms between the Orange and all the rest. Am I looking at a pickup issue or a TCI issue? Thanks, Jeff
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My question for today is; Will a 1200 Vmax TCI plug-n-play on my 1985 Venture? It seems to make sense because I have Vmax cams . . .
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i won an auction yesterday for a tci, set of coils and boost sensor for $45.00!! off a supposedly running 83 with 29k! ya baby!
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Is there an easy way to remove my TCI? It looks very hard to get at.
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i was thinking about a magnetic tank bag. i was going to mount three plates of metal to the underside of my false tank cover. but then, got to thinking, i remounted the tci to the air box. will the magnets mess with it? any thoughts? has anyone tried this?
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I was wondering if one of you still have a good TCI for the 84. I think mine might be bad, and don't know where I can get one to try. If you are willing to lend me one, I will cover shipping
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I am checking to see if there would be enough interest from members to make it feasible for me to buy about 10 (or more) of the Ignitech TCIP4 V80 TCI ignition modules. These units would be a 30 minute or less job to install & be riding with. I would get these units from Ignitech, pre-load a Venture program setup with mileage and performance balanced. The adapter harness would include the wiring for the pressure sensor that the TCI uses. The stock Venture boost sensor is not compatible with the Ignitech unit & can't be used. I would supply either a brand new boost sensor or one from a auto recycler, the second option being much more economical & would be fully tested by me. I will be able to supply unit in either 83-89, 4 pickup coils or 90-93, 1 pickup coil versions . Ignitech Site link: http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm I can get these units and resell them with a gently used boost sensor, fully tested and ready to go for $225 US plus shipping. If a new boost sensor is wanted the cost would increase by about $50 (subject to change). I would need a partial prepayment in order to finance this. Balance of payment due when ready to ship by me. Turn around time would be about 2 weeks. It would take me about a week to get TCI's and some time to wire & test them. And being upfront about it, this is about $25 less than the unit can be purchased from Ignitech and the cost of a used boost sensor factored in. All that would be needed by user to utilize this unit would be to unplug the 2 cables from the existing TCI & plug them into the adapter harness. Then mount the TCI, which is slightly larger than a pack of smokes & mount the boost sensor. Connect the hose from the #2 intake boot to the boost sensor. Mounting of TCI can be on air box lid or left radio pocket. The TCI can be hooked up to a laptop that either has a com port or one with a USB port & an adapter that will be made available. It will not be necessary to have a laptop hookup if you do not desire to modify the program I would load in it. With the use of a laptop connection, the user can customize settings as desired. The Ignitech thread is located at link below, there is a lot of info in it. I will supply an electronic manual with the TCI. I will also put on the CD any useful info I have collected while using this unit. Each CD will have additional info such as bike wiring schematics and other items not supplied by Ignitech. The Ignitech manual, TCIP4 program and initial module program will also be included. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 1st picture shows the TCI, wiring harness, a used pressure sensor and the software CD. Also are extra pins Ignitech supplies if user wants to add other non-utilized features of TCI, such as fuel pump relay control, shift light, inputs for shut off features. 2nd picture shows an boost sensor. 3rd picture shows end view of TCI 4th picture shows adapter harness with boost sensor leads. 5th picture shows Miscellaneous settings screen 6th picture shows Bike settings screen 7th picture shows 2D advance map example, would be different in supplied format. 8th picture shows 3D advance map example, would be different in supplied format. Last picture shows test screen. Gary -
Does anyone know who might repair a tci unit?
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Things that I have done to the TCI; 1. Removed it from the original mount on the bike to be under the false tank. 2. Replaced the diodes. They were corroded. (Hopefully i soldered them correctly) 3. Baked it in the oven to make sure it is dried out. I thought that I had it fixed. I connected the TCI up after baking it and the bike started right up. Filled the tank with gas and went for a ride around Pineview Lake and back. Had a little popping but it may be from needing to be synced. After letting the bike cool down it would not start again. So on a whim I baked the TCI again. This time for only 10 to 15 min hooked it up and the bike starts right up. I can ride it all day as long as I don't let it cool down much. While riding I noticed that if I let the rpms get down to 1200 It would all of a sudden drop to 0 with the bike still running but feeling like its missing on one cylinder. As soon as I rev it up a little it comes back. This is the first time that I have soldered anything this small (Lot of copper pipes when building my house) so I'm not sure if I did it correctly. What are the steps to solder correctly? I'm trying to get this going with out killing my budget.
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Add me to the list of those looking to find that Yami engineer that desperately needs my size 13 planted where the sun don't shine. So I read up all of the info I could find about changing the diodes in the TCI. I acquired a bunch of diodes for the job. Got all of the necessary tools ready. And dive in head first. There were some threads that made it sound like it would be not to bad to get the TCI out. I started with the suggestion that it can be done from the bottom without having to remove the air box, so that is where I went first. It should have been an ommen but the very first screw that I touched to remove the lower air scoop the hex hole stripped out, kind of my own fault, the last time I had that piece off to do an oil change I noted that the holes were very rusted and not much hex was left. Not a big deal, grab the Dremel with a cut off wheel and grind a slot for a flat blade screw driver. I took off the rest of the recommended parts to gain access to the TCI and sure enough, there it was starring at me. I thought Cool this ain't so bad. YEA RIGHT! I grab my Phillips bit and a ratchet to get the screws out, only to find out that someone must have been after the TCI once before, the screws were completely rounded out. By using the trick of putting some grinding compound on the tip of the bit to get extra traction I was able to get out the screw on the right side of the bike. The left screw just was not going to come out no matter what tricks I tried, none of which is helped by the fact that you can not even see the screw head. Enter plan 2; So since I can not get to that screw from the bottom I go ahead and pull out the air box. Cool now I can see more of the TCI but still can not get to that last screw. Enter plan 3; Grab a hack saw blade and go ahead and cut off the tab from the side of the TCI, (ain't NO way I am mounting it back up in that god awful place anyhow) Now that the TCI is out I'm off to the house and back into the A/C to do the diode swap. I took out the screws to reveal the bottom of the PCB. then take out the screws to release the PCB from the other half of the case and once again grab my trusty Dremel and make the cut to get the case open. Low and behold there are the diodes. every thing in the TCI looks like bran new, I was expecting to see the big globs of corrosion around the diodes like others have posted, but no these are clean and shiny looking like bran new. This got me to thinking, I wonder if the PO had the TCI replaced at some point before I got the bike and that is why the screws were stripped out. So I pondered this for a few minutes, should I just put it back together or doe the diode swap while I am in there???????? I finally decided to do the swap and was able to do the whole job without lifting any pads. I cleaned the board of all flux and other residue and reapplied a conformal coating to protect the circuits from moisture. I did notice that once I got the cover to the TCI off that there was a small puddle of water inside of the TCI!!!! I had washed the bike two days earlier. So I put a bead of sealant all around the perimeter of the case and sealed up the new seam that I created and sealed up the 2 small holes that Yami put there for no purpose other than to allow water in. Now time to put it all back together. First thing was to plug in the TCI and make sure that the bike still runs, WooHoo, it started right up and all 4 pipes got hot. So per the ideas posted here I cut a hole thru the inside of the faring and pulled the wire harness for the TCI thru the hole. It is plenty long to reach. then I got out some splices and heat shrink to repair the white with green stripe wire that I managed to cut thru while making the hole in the faring. oopie! I used some Velcro strips to attach the TCI to the inside of the faring. While I was in there I cleaned out all of the mouse droppings and nut and seed shells that the mice had left there for me. WTF the dang mouse was still in there. Well at least it is dead, that explains the "aromas" that I had been noticing when sitting a red lights. Got that mess all cleaned up, the rest of the reassembly went quite quickly and uneventfully. Once more start it up to make sure everything still works and Yippee, it does. So at least I don't have to worry about this issue for another 24 years. Now if it will just cool off enough so that I can take it for a ride. OK Rant over...... Back to you regularly scheduled programing. -
TCI electronic question
van avery posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I pulled the TCI off my donor bike and installed it in the running bike and it ran . But not as well as the original TCI. So, I cut theTCI box and purchased the new diodes. and replaced them on the TCI from the donor bike. These were definately shot. Two of the diodes were completely disinigrated. While replacing the diodes, I noticed I also have a bad capacitor ( top of the attached picture). It's a 400V .047UF and the Radio Shack does not carry them. They do carry a 50V .047UF capacitor. Since this is a 12 VDC system will the 50V .047 uF work instead of the 400V .047uF Capacitor? Thank for any help. -
I have looked at everything more times than I care to admit, but my faux tank cover simply will not lock into place with the TCI mounted on top of the air cleaner box. The a/c box is properly and fully seated, the carbs are full seated into their boots, and with the TCI on top of the a/c, there is just not enough room for the cover to be mounted. So, I am going to return both the TCI and the boost sensor to the stock location. What a waste of time. But learn something new everyday. Atleast I found my b/s wasn't working at all.
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Just got done relocating the TCI to the top of the airbox and while I was at it found the boost sensor to be bad and replaced it. Thanks to a popular member here, I was able to do so fairly quickly. Anyhow, now that the TCI is on top of the airbox, I am concerned with it getting hot due to the lack of cooling airflow around it. In its original location, while moving forward at any speed, air flow I think flowed around the TCI providing a cooling effect. Even though that air had passed through the radiator, I am pretty sure it was a lot cooler than the air that will now surround it being on top of the airbox. If this is correct, what would be the effect? Could that hotter air lessen the longevity of the TCI? Or am just one of those Mr. Fulla Schitt that I was reading about a few minutes ago? -
is it possible to test TCI or the coils off the bike? If so...how? I've got my blonde torn apart (VERY apart!) which is VERY scary! Anybody in Ontario got an 83 that they would be willing to try my TCI on? How do you open it to see the condition of the diodes etc....cut it? you are gonna see a lot of that emoticon in the near future!
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Didn't see any other posts similar to my issue, so here it goes. Long story short, last summer moved the bike to new place. Garage was cluttered, so it sat outside for 2 days. Rain on one of them. After that, the bike would idle, but as soon as you tried to give it gas, it would act as if it were limited at 1500 rpm. When that happens, the tach drops to zero. Let off the gas, tach comes back. Didn't have time to ride last year so I left it. Well it still does it. Pulled the battery out and looked at the connects on the TCI and they are dry and not excessively dirty or corroded. New plugs and there seems to be spark on all 4 although the two rear plugs I pulled out were wet. Any suggestions ? I have the shop manual and it basically says to check the resistance on the coils and if that's not it, replace the TCI. I'm in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. It's nice today and I'd really like to ride again. Please help ! Phil -
I am looking at moving my TCI to the airbox but I can't see how to remove it from the stock location. I have the battery box out and don't want to remove the fairing. Can anyone tell me how this thing is mounted? Thanks
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I am aware that there was a change to the TCI & pickup coil set up on the 90-93 VR (after reading tech library) However all the manuals I have state that there is 5 wires coming from the pickup coil (stator)case & Ohms should read 100-125. This 90VR has 6 wires (colors not the same) & unable to get any Ohms reading. Question: Should there be Ohm reading at the 6 prong plug & what should that be? Is there a way to test the TCI? I have spark & compression with rebuilt carbs will not fire or run (its like the timing is off) When the plugs are pulled there seems to be a film but not soaked with gas. Fuel pump fills float bowls & shuts off, pilot screws are turned out 2-2 1/2 turns, choke plungers all work. Lacks gas flow. Is there a need to prime carbs? I am grasping at straws. :canada:
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I found a used tci locally that will work on my 85. It looks ok on the outside and when I open the back its nice and clean and I dont see any issues, but I want to have a look at the front of the board and check to the capacitors. I seem to remember a thread in here about replacing the capacitors but i cant find it. does anyone know how to get the board out of the plastic box and what capacitors i need if any of them are burnt? Thanks in advance, Brian
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I have been collecting a lot of junk, but not getting a lot of stuff done. My son andI have figured why the 85 Royale did not have any spark when I bought it and it appears to be the TCI. I got one on ebay for $7.50 plus about $7 in shipping as the only bidder and when we plugged it up, the bike started. I have no doubt the bike will need a lot of TLC, but it is complete and we will just have to go through it and see what it is going to take. This was the bike and spare engine I got for $550. It was a bit weird that as part of checking things out, we took the original TCI off the 85 and put it on my 83 and it not only would not start, but when I plugged the original TCI back up, it would not fire either. But, when we plugged up the ebay TCI, it would run. So, I bought another one and got it for $7.99 as I got it with a set of coils and a bunch of relays for a total of about $35, including shipping. This was also exactly the same number as the one on my bike. Hopefully, that will work and maybe I can see if my original 83 TCI is bad. The other part of the projects on my 83 is to replace the engine with the one I got with the 85 deal that is supposed to have only 30,000 miles on it. My plans are to split it and replace the transmission with the 2nd gen RSV transmission that I have, which I only paid $25 for. But, in case there is a problem with the change over, I bought an 86 transmission for $24.95 and forks for $4.99. With all that, plus a starter clutch assembly to have as a backup, I got it all, including shipping for about $60. I thought I did pretty good on that too. I will also put the solid motor mounts in that I got from Steve (SGN) that really look good. The other part of this project is to install the V-Max rear drive I got that I think will go real good with the 2nd gen trans. The one thing that is going to cost me is I took my Corbin seat to an upholster today and that is going to cost about $250 the be redone, ouch. I really like the seat and it works real good for me with the modifications I have already done earlier, so I hope it will be worth it. Soooooo, now my biggest thing is to get motivated on getting something done. I probably need to get the 83 running good before I try to replace the engine as I will be using my original carbs. And, as a backup, if there are any problems with the 85 engine or transmission, even though it is about 500 past the serial number fix, I will have my 83 engine and it already has an 86 transmission. RandyA -
Just a few pictures to show what the TCI looked like that came off the 85 bike. I believe it has had some moisture go thru it. RandyA
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The #2 carb on the 85 engine has a hose hookup that appears to be about the same location as the 83 port for the boost sensor that runs to an emission system. Since the good spare TCI I have is for an 83, I wonder if that hook up would work correctly. I also wonder if all these emission hoses can be removed and blocked. Randy
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I have had my bike down for an electrical problem that I thought was the TCI, but ended up being a terminal coming into the TCI. I also moved the TCI, which I put on the wall beside the radio. I also had my Corbin seat recovered and am still not real happy with it. I took it to someone that was recommended, but he has struggled with this seat, and with the changes I had made to it earlier, it made it worse. The biggest thing was my son Brian had my carbs off and had put them on his bike trying to eliminate some problems he is having. He has been thru his 85 carbs several times and still is not getting the proper fuel feed. But, at least mine is running good and feels good. After running it some, it felt real good to do a couple of 1st and 2nd gear runs up to 8,000rpm's. Now, I am getting a little more motivated to tear into the 30,000 mile motor I got with the 85 and put the 2nd gen Venture transmission in it with the V-max rearend in the bike. I am also going to put the solid motor mounts in I got from SGN (Steve) and do the valve clearance check. I really hate to take the valve covers off as they have had absolutely no leaks around them. It makes me wonder if these valve covers have ever been off the motor. It is supposed tyo be about 70 degrees here today with about a 30% chance of thunderstorms later on. RandyA
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