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Showing results for tags 'tank'.
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Can anyone help me with web sites etc. to purchase a wide leather tank guard WITH NO POCKET OR STUDS I will be using it to protect my tank while I pass my right leg over the tank, and any bits on it could cause me to snag the foot and fall -OUCH !! I have to get on the bike by moving my butt up on to the pillion seat and then swinging the gammy leg over the bike--its' a site to behold :Laugh: Thank u in advance for any help ____________________________________________________________________ never ride faster than your guardian angel:2133:can fly
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I am looking to purchase a leather tank guard BUT I don't want studs or a pocket on it. I will be using it to protect my tank from my boot !! I have a gammy leg and have to pass it over the tank to get on and off (while sitting up on the pillion seat),so if there was anything on the guard I could "come-a-gutsa" off the bike NOT A GOOD LOOK:thumbdown: As cost to Australia is a consideration--cheap too!! If anyone can help with web sites or contacts I would appreciate it ____________________________________________________________________ never ride faster than your guardian angel:2133:can fly
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We are picking up our 2007 RSV this Wednesday, and I planned on adding some modes to the bike within the first month. Some things I wanted to add were the driving lights ( Light-bar ) . I added a light-bar on my VTX, and are familiar with wiring, relays etc. Is it hard to do on the RSV? I'm assuming the tank comes off etc? Also I planned on adding luggage rack. I noticed Yamaha makes a nice one for the bike, is that what you would recommend? I also plan on adding some LED's to the bike. About 200+ plus, so I'll be removing the gas tank, to light the engine, and running some up front of the bike, plus in the rear under the saddle bags. Any threads on this, so I can get some ideas for the placements of the LED's? Exhaust - Not sure on this one yet. I had 4 different exhaust systems on the VTX before liking the one I had. I'm looking for an exhaust system Little over stock, Little rumble down the road, but not loud enough to give the wife a headache when we take long trips, 300 miles + in a day Here was my last bike, before and after, so you can see I'm comfortable with working on bikes: http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm200/fltekdiver/cropped.jpg http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm200/fltekdiver/IMGP0305.jpg AND Here's MY GW with the LED's I added: http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm200/fltekdiver/Ledsbike.jpg -
Has anyone bought and installed th Wide Leather Tank Panel with Pocket yamaha accessory. Do you have to remove the rubber strip on the tank or does it go right over the top of it? Any tips would be appreciated.:think: -
I filled up with gas and jumped on the freeway. 15 miles later exited to a major street and just cruised along in the 88 degree sunshine. then my 07 RSV (55k miles) began to sputter. checked the petcock, it's in the down position. coasted to the side and began diagnosis.... pulled the seat, tank side covers. located the fuel lines.pulled the line off the carbs and turned the key. hmmm fuel pump non functional until i tapped on it several times... YES- i tapped! replace tank, connect fuel lines and fire it up. let it idle while putting everything back together. cruised the remaining 40 miles w/o incident..... anyone else had fuel pump problems?????
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Say you were running low of fuel so you switch to reserve. You then top off with gas but you forget to switch back to the main tank. Will you have any gas left in the tank if you run out of gas?
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Hello all. I hope I can make this question understandable. Here goes... The 2006 RSTD does not have a low fuel light. The final segment of the gase guage blinks and the Fuel trip meter comes on and begins to count up.. When I fill up it generally takes about 3.8-4 gallons when this led segment starts flashing, which would imply that I have 1.3-1.5 gallons of gas left in the tank (the RSTD is 5.3 gallon tank). All of the above is with the fuel petcock in the on position. Now here is the question... Could I keep riding until the engine ran out of gas and then turn the fuel petcock to Reserve and still have fuel left? Or is the Reserve setting just there and the guage is letting me know that I am pulling from the reserve? The manual is not very clear on this.I am going around 150-160 miles before the last segment begins to flash which would imply a cruising range of about 180-190 miles with about .5 gallons remaining if I can still switch to the Reserve setting on the tank. Sorry for the long post but not knowing is just nagging me. -
I was wondering how much gear can you safely pack on a bike and riding 2 up to camp with? My tent and cooking kit is small but would already overload the trunk and rack capacity. I figure I can strap the sleeping bags and pads to the sides to the saddlebags but cant figure out where to carry everything else. Honestly our bikes are big, but they dont have a lot of storage room. I was thinking of getting a giant tank bag to strap to my tank rack... anyone have any suggestions? I am getting a hitch made but with the wife losing her job buying the camper trailer is no longer an option... has anyone sucessfully camped for two on a weekend with just what you load on the bike? how to you keep from making the bike even more top heavy?
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So, a week or so ago I rode the naked venture into town and fueled it up. I hadn't had it on the road before and needed to make sure it was capable of motorating under its own powerization. It works ok, now its time to start painting,,, Anyhoot. In the mean time, the whole house smells of gasoline, and I go out to check on it, and it has lost all the fuel. The tank is bone dry. The concrete isn't wet and it didn't leak out while running, so I am pretty sure it isn't the carbs. Are there any typical leak points on these scoots, or should I figure on removing the tank to repair rust?
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Hi folks, So here's what happened, I never winterized my Gen 2 because I had plans to haul down south sometime this winter. Plus I got lazy and hunting and football and blah blah blah. So we finally got a little warmer weather last week and I started it up last week anyway bad gas plus I think I flooded it. So it wouldn't run very well and had smoke pouring out the pipes more on the left side than right. Yesterday I drained the tank and then added sea foam but it still ran poorly. Today I pulled the tank (huge accomplishment for me) and managed to pull the two rear plugs. They were both wet and pretty black, now how the heck do I get to the front ones? There is just a ton of stuff in on top of them. I can't figure it out. I did a search but just didn't happen find what I was looking for. Help me please!!!!!!!!!!!! Danimal
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If I recall right....a member on this site makes tank bibs...Possibly BEER30??If so, is there a link to see photos?? Thanks folks.
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take a look at this - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-VENTURE-ROYALE-1300cc-Beautiful_W0QQitemZ140298791821QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6718QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Looks like this bike has an extra tank mounted on a trailer hitch? Anybody ever seen anything like this? Would the fuel pump be able to draw from that tank?
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Hi, Over the 3 years I've owned my 87 VR 1300, I've averaged 36-37 mpg. While this is right in the mid-range of what a bunch of y'all get, I was always perplexed by the 45 or even 50 mpg-ers. FWIW, I've checked all the usual suspects (fuel levels, new diaphragms, pressure sensor working, new plugs & tuneup, etc). I've experimented with up to four 9/16" holes in the airbox lid which did little to nothing. Then I came across 5bikes (Chuck) and his recommendation to lower the carb metering needles, that it runs rich from the factory in the needle range. Hmmm... Well, after some foolin' around, I arrived at the following: - Needles lowered .050". - All extra holes in airbox taped over (didn't run well with needles lowered AND holes open). It's running well and for several tanks now I've averaged 40 mpg with the same driving cycle and style I always do. I pulled one spark plug after these few tanks and found that it's very light gray on the ground electrode, light tan on one side of the insulator, the rest of the insulator is white, and just a bit of black on the end of the threaded portion. Seems about right with the detergents in today's gas. A 10% increase with this adjustment is good, but only half the story. 5bikes gets high 40's on his 1200 but rides almost exclusively country roads and in no hurry either - steady 55-65. I commute to work which is about 1/3 Interstate, the rest mostly suburban / rural roads with a little city. On the Interstate I'm doing 75-90, and other roads I like to accelerate briskly to somewhat over the speed limit (shame, shame). Chuck asked me if I'd run a tank or two slower to see what happens. Thru a supreme effort on my part, I rode the Interstate at 65-70, kept the rural and city roads at or below speed limit and accelerated very gently - for one tank - I couldn't do it any longer :-) The results for that tank? 43 mpg - best I've ever done. So now I'm trying to find a happy medium - a little more spirited so it's more fun, but not as fast as before which will also be better on my driving record. (My current tank, judging by the behavior of the gas gage, will probably end up at 41 or 42.) If I truly ran a tank on just country roads doing 55-65 I'd probably get 45. (It also seems that the 1200's get a little better mpg than 1300's.) I've always heard, and it makes total sense, that driving slower produces better mpg. On one hand I knew my wrist is a wee bit "leaden", but pretty much denied to meself that I was aggresive enough to cause poor mileage. Then I'd read posts here, one says it's all in the wrist, another says their bike gets "40 no matter how they ride". Well, I took numbers, did my best to control the variables, and this is the result. Jeremy
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I really dont want to remove the tank to do it, but I am sure that the lower part of the tank is full of junk from the last 25 years of it's life. I only had the bike for a year now but I have never opened the reserve valve and dont want to if there is junk in there. And good tips on how to clean all that out and drain it to a bucket? also where is the fuel filter? I cant find it. -
I have a question ... today i recieved my hopnel tank tie and was going to install it but now i have questions.. do i need to remove the old rubber piece from the center of the tank? and will this strech into place it seems to off just a little bit? thanks for any help... Ron aka grasshopper
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I got the leather tank bra for Christmas and saw that the clip for the intercom will be in the way. Is it just double faced tape holding it on? I want to use the pouch on the bra to hold my I-pod.If it is tape any one know what is the best tape to replace it out of the way?
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I am thinking of putting an aux gas tank on my 86. I would like it not to be over the back seat or in the trunk or saddle bags. Has anyone installed such a tank? Here is the one I am thinking of. http://www.coyote-gear.com/8inch.html I will put it across the back below the tail light. What do you think? Cody
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Hey I'm cleaning out the garage and have up for sale a windshield, trunk, hard bags with brackets and a gas tank. Please check the classifieds or go to http://www.kloppenberg.us/garage_sale.html Thanks Tim -
Just found some new crud for sealing those older tanks. First off if you have been sort of satisfied with KREEM in the past after you use this stuff you'll thro the KREEM away. Highly reccomend using the quart size offer - more than enough to do 2 tanks - find a buddy to split it with or it'll save. ____________________________________________________________________________ Epoxy Gas Tanoughenank Sealer http://support.caswellplating.com/themes/client_default/supportsuite.gifhttp://support.caswellplating.com/themes/client_default/space.gif Need Assistance? Click "Chat Now" to chat with a Live Operator. Chat Now No Thanks! http://support.caswellplating.com/themes/client_default/staffonline.gif PHENOL NOVOLAC EPOXY GAS TANK SEALER http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/images/Gs-tnk.jpg http://www.caswellplating.com/images/applications_title.gif Permanently repair two 5 gallon fuel tanks or one 10 gallon tank Saves hundreds of dollars in repairs Also works on plastic and fiberglass Withstands modern ethanol fuels http://www.caswellplating.com/images/related_title.gif Permatex Instant Gas Tank Repair Putty - Fills Large Holes Before Using This Epoxy Sealer Permanently Repairs Steel, Aluminum, Fiberglass and Plastic Gas Tanks Read The Application Instructions (24kb PDF) Phenol Novolac Epoxies are a new breed of chemical resistant materials, able to withstand permanent immersion of many harsh solvents, fuels and oils. This Epoxy has much better bond strength than single component products, with strengths of up to 3000 PSI, and this higher strength reduces the need for a clinically clean surface, as the epoxy actually prefers to bond to a rough rusty surface. Our new phenol novolac is more thixotropic, which means it 'hangs' on the tank walls during the coating process. This gives a thicker overall coating. There is more volume of material in the kit to allow for this. http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/images/gtsbox.jpg What else can you use Gas Tank Sealer for? A corrosion and chemical resistant coating. ie: battery compartments. A high strength adhesive where plenty of working time is needed. A potting compound, to encapsulate electronics A non-skid surface, just bed in aluminum oxide. Relining old potato peeler machines (Hobart type) - coat liner and bed in aluminum oxide. Repair leaks in concrete vessels, Add fine sand to make a mortar. Bonds to almost anything except polyethylene. Bonds to Wood, plastic, rubber, concrete, metals. Making high quality molds - virtually no shrinkage on curing. Thin cross section repair of sheared parts, such as; broken cups, dishes, or a split leg on a chair. Application Instructions All traces of oil and gasoline should first be removed by pouring about 1 pint of acetone or lacquer thinner into the tank, and rotating the tank several times to thoroughly sluice the sides with solvent. Dispose of the contaminated solution. When recoating your gas tank from failed Kreem or POR-15 tank sealers, remove the old, failed coating using a paint stripper containing Methylene Chloride. Place a hand full of drywall screws into the tank and shake them around vigorously for several minutes. These will dislodge any loose particles of rust. In the case of Fiberglass and plastic tanks, this will rough up the tank interior, improving adhesion. Rinse out the tank with about 1-pint of acetone or lacquer thinner, then set aside and allow to dry. Use an airline to blow air into the tank to aid drying. Apply duct tape or masking tape to any weeping seams, holes or porous areas. This will stop any Gas Tank Sealer from oozing out, and will allow it to bridge over the hole. Plug the outlet ports with putty or Play-Doh. Mix up the required amount of Gas Tank Sealer (one unit should treat two x five gallon tanks) If you are only treating ONE 5 gal (or smaller) tank, then divide parts A & B in half. You could use a dipstick to gauge this. In a separate plastic container (margarine tub etc.) mix the two parts together thoroughly for at least 2 minutes. Scrape around the sides to ensure all resin is blended together. BAD MIXING AND BAD MEASURING IS THE #1 CAUSE OF FAILURE!! Pour into the tank, then immediately seal up the filler hole with Gladwrap and an elastic band. Swill the tank around in every direction for several minutes to obtain a good layer of Gas Tank Sealer over all surfaces. Remove the filler cap,Gladwrap seal, and pour out any excess. Allow to drain upside down for a few minutes. If you have a built in fuel filter, blow air into the fuel line port for about 10 minutes. This will clear the filter of any Gas Tank Sealer. Scrape off any excess with a sharp knife at this point (usually about 40-60 Min after mixing) Place the tank in a warm 70-90 f place and allow to cure overnight. In the case of alcohol fuels, allow 3-5 days at room temperature, or 24 hours at 120 deg f. 1 Pint Of Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer coats up to 2 x 5 gal tanks A few weeks ago you sent me your gas tank sealer kit. In the meantime, I have tried it and I just wanted to tell you that IT'S A GREAT PRODUCT! It worked perfectly well! Now I have a perfect gas tank again for about 40 US$ (including spray paint etc.). A local repair shop wanted about 1000 bucks (no kidding!) for welding and repainting the tank . So, I guess I made a good deal. Thanks a lot for providing such a great product and also for your excellent service. Best regards, Aldo Hoermann ______________________________________________________________________ QuantityProduct CodeNameSizePrice GTS1750 Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer (Motorcycle Tanks - Up To 10 Gal)1 pint$34.95 http://www.caswellplating.com/caswellcart/images/noair.gif GTSCEpoxy Gas Tank Sealer (Car Tanks - Up to 20 Gal)1 Quart$64.99 http://www.caswellplating.com/caswellcart/images/noair.gif GTS1GEpoxy Gas Tank Sealer (Tanks Up To 80 Gal)1 Gallon$199.99
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Need to rehab a tank badly. Bought a kit from local body shop but when it gets down to final stage (sealing) find it's not what I need or want, way to thin a product. Can you still get the "old" tank butter? Only name I know it by. Way I'd describe it is dries sort of a buttery creamy color, fairly thick and hard. I think it was a 2 parter some sort of epoxy material. Stuff worked great back in the day on old Harley and Triumph tanks. Used it on some seriously cancered tanks and it filled the bill. I'd just replace the tank but it's a custom off an 86' Kawasaki ZL 900 Eliminator, that looks better than the original and holds almost 2 more gallons of gas, so I need to rehab. Thanks for the help. Bull
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here are a few of my winter projects i have finished cool key chrome around the gas tank switch block led's
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I bought the universal adpater from edsets so I can use earbuds with the intercom system on my bike. The sound is excellent but I can't stand the clicking noise of the engine. With the regular intercom connection I can hear the noise but it isn't loud enough to cause a problem. With the earbuds with the adapter the noise is so loud it drives my crazy. I've read on here where you can move the wires around under the tank and sometime the noise will go away. Which wires under the tank do you move to correct this and are there any other ways to stop the clicking? Thanks, Eddie
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Saw the new Voyagers at the Long Beach show this weekend.... Not what I expected at all. The bags look strangely separated from the bike when viewed from the front. No intercom or connections visible. The steering is heavier than Venture, my wife can get the Venture and virtually all other bikes off the stand but couldn't get the Voyager up..... Too many odd curves in that fairing. Also tank hardware kind of odd and chintzy. In a way it's a relief, I won't be lusting for one. Seats comfortably but a bit tight. Good looking from back.
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OK, this may take a while, but I'm going to start at the beginning and try not to miss anything, cause I'm not sure what may be important, and what isn't. Early this summer I was having some problems losing clutch fluid on my 2001 RSV. I kept topping off the master cylinder, but eventually I realized that it was leaking from the slave cylinder and ordered a rebuild kit. I ended up letting the bike sit for about 6 weeks before I had a chance to get together with my son (my semi-pro wrench) who lives in CA. We did the rebuild, got everything put back together, and wheeled it out of the garage to fire it up and take it for a test ride. It started right up, but after a short time running, I backed off the choke and it died. Started it again and the same thing. In spite of being plenty warmed up, it wouldn't run with the choke off. So I thought just a few cobwebs in the carbs, I'll take it for a run and blow 'em out. Well, in spite of running it for a mile or so through the neighborhood it never was able to run without the choke on. I wasn't sure what to do next, so I just parked it. Schedules were busy, one thing led to another and before long - it was November!!! Summers in Houston aren't the greatest time for riding, but this fall we've had some awesome weather, so I decided it was time to get the scoot running again. The battery had gone dead and would no longer take a charge, so I replaced it. (and purchased a Battery Tender) I figured maybe the air filters could use a look (why in the heck do they make them so hard to get to!!!) so I pulled them, and found that on one the plastic base had warped and had separated from the paper filter. Very bad! There were even a couple of leaves caught in it. No telling how much crud may have passed through and into the carbs. I replaced them with a new set of K&N's. Next I removed the tank and pulled the air boxes above the carbs. Nothing too obvious, but with no real desire to pull the carbs off, I decided to just spray them down real good with carb cleaner and put it all back together to see what I had. Putting those boxes back on it was another PITA! You can't see most of the boots and I'm really not sure I got them all seated properly over the carbs. Anyway, I went ahead and hooked up the tank and fired her up. Pretty much the same as before, or worse. It starts and runs with the choke on, but it never fully warms up to that higher revving state that it's supposed to reach with the choke on. If I turn the choke off it dies, and if I even begin to move the throttle, it also dies. And also, before I started all this I poured a full can of Sea-Foam into about 2/3rds of a tank of gas. My next thought is to look for the fuel filter to replace that. Any yes, the fuel pump clicks when I turn on the ignition and seems to be functioning. It will run at a low idle for as long as I want with the choke on. Like I said, I'm not really comfortable pulling the carbs off of the bike myself, so does anyone have any suggestions for a barely competent wrench, or should I just load her up and take her in to a pro? All ideas appreciated. -
I need some help, I was given a air compressor that had a burnt motor, I put a new 5hp motor on it, but when it would hit 35lbs in the tank, the back pressure would stop the motor,( probably what smoked the original motor) so I pull the head off of the pump, the head gasket is blown,all of the reed valves look good, I changed it out but same thing going on. so next I pull the check valve from the tank, ok, a small peice of junk is stuck in the valve, I clean it up, put all back together, thinking to my self that I now have a great Free compresser.... but nooooooo.... same thing happening:confused24: I have no clue what to check next, there is not much to these things, so I am at a loss... any Ideas?? Thanks!! PS... Free Air to any one that can help me out and get it working!! Kreg
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