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I posted this on another thread earlier but with so many PGR members on site I thought I would re-post. Saturday, Sept. 19th the Mn PGR set a record for the longest flag line to date. U.S. Army Reserve Camp Ripley located near Brainerd Mn held it's annual open house, set aside it's helmet/safety gear reg. for the day. PGR riders began to arrive. A steady stream passed thru the gate as one by one, some in groups began to assemble. All in all, 1344 riders stood tall, flags waving, to honor our men and women in uniform. Beautiful! (Any takers?) Renne PGR USAF Ret.
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Doing some routine mintenance since we had all this rain and I found the wires to my heated grips broken. Tried to pull back and the connections actualy came off. I never really liked the grips I have and this might be a good time to replace them. Does anyone have a set of heated grips that are a little larger than stock that they've had luck with? the ones I have now are to thin, would like soomething a little larger in diameter? I looked in J&P and saw nothing?????
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just a thought , i know i should not do it but what if somebody made a set of these for our bike , we could set the rear hight away we want ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160361922897#ht_6852wt_1062
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OK folks...I recently replaced my Sunpro gauges on the '99 RSV with a new faceplate from Ponch and a new set of Equus gauges. I liked the off white color of the new gauges better. So, I have a set of Sunpro gauges with the chrome faceplate available to one of you for free. You will have to pick up or make the adapters for the water sensor as we all do but everything else will be there. So who do I give them to? Let's try to have some fun with this. I want to hear your hard luck stories about why you need a set of free gauges. Your milk cow went dry, whatever. Just submit your best FICTIONAL story about how down and out you are and I'll choose a winner based upon what I think is the best submission.
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Okay, I downloaded the service data spec. sheet for my 99... see attached. About halfway down page 1 it gives the CO% at which the carbs are supposed to be set. It appears that carbs 1 and 3 are to be set between apporximately 2.5~3.5% and 2 and 4 are supposed to be set between 3.5~4.5%. What gives and why would that have you set them differently. Let me see if I have the cylinder placement correct also. Sitting on the bike facing forward 1=LR, 2=LF, 3=RR, 4=RF I'm sure of 1 and 2 just can't remember 3 and 4.
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I have read about some of you needing to replace your stock antennas. I have a set on ebay if you are interested. Just search for item # 120469881386
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Just put up a set of RK mufflers
Squidley posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
....in the classifieds http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2342 -
Wow Ive just been reading some of the post on the metz 880 I wasnt aware of all these porblems. I have a set on my 07 VRS and had no trouble at all in fact Iwas looking to see if anyone had put the new upgrade on theres. THe wider one the 180,s on the back. I have 15k on mine and am looking to replace them with another set. Also just woundering if which part of the country you live in makes a different, the temp you ride in and the road construction.
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Is it possible to run a wire to the front under the gas tank without takiing it off? I will need to run four wires two - and two +. One set for the gps and the other for a radio caddy.
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I would like to try a set of quieter mufflers on my '05 RSTD. If anyone has a set of stock or maybe a set of Road king mufflers laying around that you trip over every time you walk through the garage, I might buy them from you just to help you get rid of them.
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My dealer is close today and I can't call them.. After I did a walk around and all they gave me a owners manual and the paper work.. I was excited and ready to hit the road.. Also a Ign. key in a small bag with 2 small set screws and a allen wrench ..This is driving me crazy.. So where does this go? Please don't tell me this what holds the bike together...
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My throttle cable broke going to town to get brake supplies, and I had to set the idle to 3 grand and then nurse it home- TRICKY! Does anyone know a good source for stock cables? Can you repair old ones, or is it worth it? You'd need a huge crimper tool, I'm sure! So for now, brake problems don't matter cause scooter wont go!
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Does anyone know where I can purchase a set of the smooth backing plates? Apparently, Yamaha has discontinued this item. # STR-4NK27-03-01 I have contacted a number of the better-know dealers which we often refer each other too, but have had no luck. Odds are though, there just has to be a set sitting around somewhere. Thanks guys! Pete.
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and find it a very cool side car set up. http://www.odditycentral.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/motorcycle-car.jpg
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So, I unpacked my new mufflers and began to inspect them. Well this set is good. Only took from original order date (06-05-2008) until now for MAC to get me a set that weren't rusted or mis-made. Had one set with the right over 3 inches longer than the left. Here are pictures of the mufflers before mounting. We can put this someplac on the site for reference. I will also take pictures when they are mounted. -
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I had a great time, thanks to all who set this up and to those who came and made the it all worth while. I will be looking forward to the next event
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I know it must be here somewhere but I cant find it! Can someone please tell me when the St Jude ride is for this year? I know there was some question about sept 12 but I never have heard if there was another date set.
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i bought a new jack at harbor fright last week end and just got enough guts to try it out , it raises the bike up 30 in. i am going to build 2 boxes to set the bike on when i need to get to both sides . the cost was 159.00 and is rated for 1100 lbs. now if the weather will just cool down enough to work on it ! Thom
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I have a neighbor I would very much like to annoy so what would be the cheapest set of slip on pipes for a 07 RSV? Thanks Phil -
I have a new to me Ride, 2001 RSV. Since I have had the hip and knee replacements done I have been looking for a 2 up ride again. I found this one the other day and just could not pass it up. It even had one of my Grills on it. So far I haven't found any chrome options offered by Yamaha that is not on it. It was a one owner bike that was set up as a show bike and really looks and runs showroom new. ( no whine ) I still will have my sidecar for trips but for 1up riding the twisties is what I have been looking for.
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I just added some pics of my "in-process" conversion from the Bub's to the H-D Ultras. I'm still waiting for my chrome V-Twin clamps to come in, and still need to finish fabbing the brackets. You can also see the problem I've been ranting about with the tips on the Bub's. I couldn't get the plugs knocked out of the H-D's, so I used a hole saw and cut them out. I really like the sound, which seems to be a deeper note, and the bigger cans really fill out the back end. I first tried the used ones I bought just in case I screwed them up, and I had a pretty hard time getting them slid up on the head pipes. When I tried the new set on they slid all the way up by hand. If you look at one of the pics you can see that they slide up even with the end of the heat shields, so the chrome clamps should finish them off nicely. I'll post finished pics probably this weekend, but so far so good. When this is finished I'll have a slightly used set of H-D's with the plugs out, and a VERY used set of Bub's for sale. But I may wind up having to plug the ends with corks and use them as pontoons if it don't quit raining here! UPDATE; Project is finished. The Bub's are sold, and I just posted the HD's in classifieds.
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I just got my RSTD back from the dealer and they said there is nothing wrong with it. I took it in because it: 1) is hard to start 2) runs rough 3) vibrates alot between 40 & 50 mph 4) pops & backfires on deceleration I replaced the plugs and that didn't help. Does it sound like the carbs are out of synch? Is there a forum member in central Alabama that has a Carbtune or a set of vacuum gauges that would be willing to help me with this? I love this bike, but it's really takes the fun out of riding when it is running so crappy. -
This post describes the proper way to set the carb floats on a 2nd Gen, as well as pointing out the errors in the factory shop manual. If you follow the manual as written, you CANNOT properly set the floats. ============================================================================================================ Today I decided to pull the carbs on my 05 RSV and check the float levels. My plugs looked perfect before I touched anything, so that doesn't sound like it was running rich. However, I ran down to Galveston and back yesterday (650 miles) and the chrome tips of my pipes collected a lot more black soot than I like. Even though my gas mileage is still running right where it always has (averaging 36 - 38), I decided to check out the float levels before my next big trip. I first tried the tube method to check the level while they are on the bike, but it just didn't seem to be working right or even close to an accurate way to measure them. So I bit the bullet and tore into it - Seems like a BIG job to pull that danged carb assembly out! The good news is, it really isn't that hard, just seems like it. Se the next post for tips on getting the carbs in and out. I was quite surprised to find that although all four carbs had the floats set very close to each other, they were WAY off the spec. Where the manual calls for .32 - .36", mine were all at either .133 or .285 (depending on how they were measured). That means the float level was set VERY high. And now to discuss the right way to measure the float height. The drawing in the shop manual clearly shows a carb being held upside down with the float bowl gasket surface level and the float height being measured with a caliper held vertical. Seems straight forward, no? But it is very wrong! Done that way, mine measured .133" instead of .34". The instructions even clearly state to "hold the carburetor upside down." But then the next thing is this NOTE: "The float arm should rest on the needle valve without depressing it." And that comment is the only thing correct about this procedure in the shop manual! Now having the float arm not depress the needle valve is a difficult thing to do with the carburetor upside down - in fact, it is virtually impossible; the weight of the float fully compresses the spring loaded plunger in the needle valve. When you lay the whole carb assembly flat on the bench, the carbs are already inclined quite a bit, but even then the weight of the float is still too much for the needle valve spring: Sooooo, I propped one end of the carburetor assembly on a short 2x4 so that the face of the float bowl was almost vertical. When you slowly raise the end of the assembly high enough you can see the float suddenly pop up from the spring pressure of the needle valve. Here is a picture of the carb assembly propped up and one of measuring the float height in that position: CAUTION: The floats have different shaped sides, and they are different heights too! The wide side of the float measures .04" higher than the other side. This means that you need to be careful to measure the SAME side of the float on all four carbs, and the wide side is the best one to use (note that the picture above is wrong, in that it shows me measuring the thin side of the float!). The most difficult part of the measurement is making sure the tool you use is held truly straight and perpendicular to the carb base, since any leaning at all will significantly change the measurement. On two of the carbs, you will find the choke rod or one of the carb mounting brackets in the way, so turn the caliper sideways a bit to clear the obstruction while still being held straight out from the carb base. I used this position to set all four floats at the mid point of the spec - .34" Bike ran great when I got it all back together, and the sync on the carbs was not changed by the procedure. I only put about 30 miles on it tonight, so I may not be able to report on the effect to my MPG calculation until I get on the road to Ontario next week. But I'll let y'all know how it changes, if at all. Goose UPDATE: OK everyone, the results are in, and this relatively straight forward maintenance procedure produced AT LEAST a 10% improvement in my fuel mileage! My carbs were in perfect sync before I adjusted the floats, and I made NO other changes. Although I have not had the time to check my fuel mileage under all conditions yet, I HAVE done about 2,000 miles of high speed, fully loaded, two-up riding. Under conditions that that have always resulted in about 32 MPG (80+ MPH and loaded, all day long), I now get 35-36 MPG. When running at an indicated 84 MPH, I can now get a full 200 miles out of a tank - never could get that far at those speeds before. And inside the chrome tips on my pipes look better now too - more brown than black. I expect it to get even better after I set the mixture screws soon.
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I plan on swapping out the small factory carbs on my 98 Tour Deluxe. I am in the process of gathering parts for the swap. Because of the cost of getting the new carbs I DO NOT want to buy the wrong ones. Does anyone know which year carb set I should buy. And also is the carb set that comes off of the V-MAX or the old GoldWing like Yamaha Venture any more desirable than the 2003 and up Royal Star 32mm carbs/? Thanks for your thoughts... Shane in Michigan
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