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Showing results for tags 'rear'.
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I need a rear tire in Asheville NC ASAP Any one know a good dealer?
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I really like riding my 84 basket case I assembled this spring, but am thinking of doing the fjr rear swap for the low end torque and i'm thinking it will help when skipping second gear. My question is what years from an fjr1300 will fit? I know someone on here sells the shim(skydoc I believe) what else is necessary besides elbow grease? Thanks, Ray. -
I like loud. I have drilled the back of the muufler and still think its sounds like a 90 year old man snoring. If I cut out the rear plate on the muffler and pulled out the tube would I run into a problem with the carb mix and backpressure? Would it lean out too much?
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I installed the Flanders G2 bars and SS lines and cables this weekend with the assistance of Larry ( carbon One). I got the trike off the stand today after cleaning and polishing the rear wheels. The difference in handling and comfort were apparent right away, it now feels like the trike has power steering (think I'll need to stiffen the rear spring preload by 1 notch) and was a much more comfortable riding position. The brakes felt more responsive with the SS lines. I only wish I had the money to do my bike now too maybe next year. If you have not done this upgrade, you need to put it on your list.
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i received an e-mail this morning from Shadetreepowersports in n.ohio about a $40 mail in rebate on avon venom tires, they listy our front tires at $140,99 and the rear at $149.99 i've order many thing from them in the past they always were good to deal with, oh and says the tires are in stock,, steve,,
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Ok all, my nephew stayed 4 days with me this week. He is 20 years old and we done some turkey hunting. Then he helped me get my bike up on the layrin bike lift and we changed the front tire. Then my brother came over this morning and we changed the rear. So now this is what I have gotten done on the bike, with a whole lot of help. I am a decent boss on the how to part and I can hand a tool with the best of you, one arm,left shoulder surgery. So I did help as much as possible, until it came to the lifting that required two arms. #1. Flanders bar upgrade from Buckeye Performance, with stainless brake lines and throttle and clutch. #2. Removed all the old fluid and put in new brake fluid and clutch fluid. #3. New Plugs. #4. A.New Avon Venom front. B. New Avon Venom rear, greased rear diff. I already had done the spline and new diff gear oil last year at only 3000 mile earlier. Still going to do; #1. Wash and wax the wheels and mufflers before replacing on bike. #2. Change oil. #3. Check the K&N air filters to make sure they are OK and properly seated in the canister. I read where Freddy had done his and they did not seat properly, so I am going to check mine and make sure they are alright and fix if not. #4. I am going to get everything back together. #5. Wash the whole bike and add some wax. #6. Order a new set of bigger mirrors that I saw somewhere for around $30.00. Put them on. I think that is it...... Oh Ya, hopefully get to ride it in about 2-3 weeks ??? Doctor appt. Wednesday, May 2nd. I may be released to drive,work, and ride sometime in the very near future,I hope. Fuzzy -
Replaced my rear shock today took about 90 mins (gotta love air tools) figured out a couple of things and thought I would share. I did not remove the rear tire I did everything through the sides. 1. If you put a quarter inch shim between the Carbon One adapter and the frame it gives you plenty of clearance to pull out the leveling links bolt. 2. Needle nose vice grips are great for pulling out the top bolt and putting it back in. 3. A floor jack under the rear tire will give you control of the tension and makes it real easy to slide the bolts back in. -
When Barb and I were on vacation on our 89 Royale, we were enjoying some of the roads in NW Georgia. We were on a rough one, and I wanted to increase the dampening on the rear shock. I reached down and tried to twist the knob.....it wouldn't move, it was stuck on #2. Today when I was putting the side covers on, I remembered that I couldn't adjust it and started to play with it. It started to move a little and I kept moving it back and forth and it started moving between #1 and #2 normally. However, I still can't get it to go into #3 or #4. #2 Dampening is great for normal use, but I'd like to be able to adjust it when I want it stiffer. Any ideas? Frank -
Since I have found the button to make a "new thread" I will copy what was said before I ask my next question.... chrislemon I had no back brakes and so I replaced all the cylinders in my rear caliper in the fall. Now that it is spring I see I still don't have rear brakes. Upon further investigation it looks like I am getting lots of air when bleeding the back brakes but still no pressure on the back brakes and yet the front is doing great and the fluid reservoir burbs when I apply the front brakes. When I cracked the line going into my rear calipers and apply the back brake I did not get a surge of fluid coming out. What should I check now? PS I can't seem to find where the metering valve is located either (how to get to it) bongobobny Now, chances are you probably have a plugged up proportioning valve which is attached to the rear of the rear master cylinder. The metering valve, on the other hand is attached to the frame towards the front by the battery along with another bleeder as there is a high point in the lines and air can get trapped there. Due to the fact you are saying the front brake works fine there should be nothing wrong with that as the metering valve only works with the front brakes... chrislemon Now my question is "where is the rear master cylinder"? I would think its the brake reservoir on the handlebars but I don't have anything attached to it. If it is in another location than that tells me I am also bleeding my rear brakes and filling the front brake reservoir. Sometimes its just better to leave things to a mechanic(go ahead and have a good laugh at my expense). PS When I do find this proportioning valve, do I just blow it out to unplug it? Thanks Newbie
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Hello Everyone. I just got a Venture 1983 with 30k, but there's a problem. The rear break paddle does not return to it's normal position, it will not reset after presing it down. I took the peddal assambly out and there's nothing wrong there. As you can see in the pic that piston like it's hard to move. Can someone point me in the right direction to solve this issue. THank you in advance.
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I installed Speed Bleeders ™ on the clutch and on all brake bleeding points yesterday (perhaps I shouldn't have chosen Friday the Thirteenth) and flushed all clutch and brake fluids with new fresh DOT4. Everything was going swell until I replaced the last bleed valve on the rear caliper and could not get any fluid to come out of the bleeder when I attempted to bleed the rear brake line. I replaced the Speed Bleeder with the OEM and attempted to bleed as normal and again no fluid would emit. I removed the bleeder and depressed the brake foot pedal, but still no fluid at rear caliper. I can see that there is fluid in the open port where the bleeder fits, but none comes out when I depress the pedal. I have a very firm pedal and the left front brake works. I tried rebleeding the entire system and did not encounter any air at the front or at the metering bleeder near the steering head. I removed the plastic elbow with the reservoir fill hose attached to it and drained the reservoir. I examined the two ports inside the master cylinder that are visible when the elbow is removed and noted that the orifices were open as I depressed the pedal. I reinstalled the elbow, refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid and rebled the front left, the steering head metering bleed valve and attempted to bleed the rear once again without success. Same results, no fluid and no pressure at the pistons. Applying the pedal does not apply the brakes on the rear wheel but the front left brake works fine. It seems to me that the proportioning valve mounted on the master cylinder is stuck, perhaps, but I don't know enough about the internal plumbing of the master cylinder/proportioning valve to know if this is likely. It is not an easy task to remove the master cylinder and or the proportioning valve, so I am asking for guidance towards some other cause for me to have no pressure at the rear caliper. The last time I rode the bike a couple weeks ago, the brakes seemed to work fine, even two up. I only encountered a problem after I installed the Speed Bleeders™. (Thanks to your suggestion, Condor!) -
The 2 carcasses - continued..
KIC posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
So I have the opportunity to pick up these two 83 MK1 carcasses. I have been out of town so it has taken a while to try to finish this deal. I went back and really looked over them. My intention is to store them and just have the parts available. I would like to sell enough parts to cover the cost of the bike then the parts, nuts, bolts etc are there to pass on. Can you guys look at these pictures and tell me if there are parts here worth selling/keeping and passing on ? I have a few people interested in some of the parts already, just trying to figure out if it is worth putting the money out for them. What do you think they are worth paying for ? The fuller carcass has what appears to be: Good solid front forks ( not leaking) with anti-dive units. Good front fender Good Rims front & back Good right lower fairing Left side mirror ( light scratches on back) Good radiator Good right rear bag Left front turn signal lens Handle bars 1 chrome vent cover Misc chrome bars on sides two complete rear turn signals rear trailer hitch trailer light connector and wiring Most of the CLASS system ( condition unknown) Seat carcass Misc electrical connectors Engine looks mostly complete, but missing carbs and been left open to rain and elements. -
i need to know alternate rear tire sizes. i have a MU90-16 78h , E3, on their now. what are my other size options?? i have about 5k on the E3, but will be , hopefully, taking some nice trips this summer. new Venom on front 3 months ago.
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I was looking at my rear axle where is comes through on the right side, and was alarmed that it didn't look right. Is it supposed to be flush? You experts look at the picture and tell me.
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Got a set of rear speakers mounted into the saddle bags of the scooter this week. I found a set of computer speakers that had a interesting shape to them at a local electronics recycler. I don't know what they came from. I hooked them up to stereo in garage before hand and they sound pretty good. Mounted into front of saddlebags with a thin piece of a baggie over them to water proof. I know that won't help sound, but it will give me an overall better volume on bike. I have an aftermarket radio with front & rear volume controls. Gary -
After bleeding the foot pedal brake (91VR) both front and rear, now the rear brake seems to slightly drag. Put it on the center stand lifted up on the foot break pedal both the front and rear tire seems to spin freely. After pressing on the foot brake pedal, then letting it free the foot pedal does not come up like it used to. The front tire spins freely, but the rear tire was slightly harder to spin and the rear brake light stayed on. So I continued riding with my right foot under the brake foot. That seemed to be enough to release the rear brake. Any suggestions. -
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i just had the rear caliper rebuilt by earl. bled the front and rear calipers with speed bleeders. the pedal wont come back up all the way. it keeps the brake light engaged. i checked the brake switch spring and its it good condition. it just seems to have resistance to return all the way. any ideas? proportioning valve bad? time for new lines and de-link? and im in northern michigan now. just got Hughesnet installed yesterday. water lines were busted and critters got into cabin, thats why i havnt been around last couple weeks. -
I picked up a set of Dunlop E3's for my 08 RSV. Front - 150/80-16 , the Rear I was sold was a MV85/B15. My manual says 150/90-15. Is the MV85/B15 the same as what is required, under a different part number? I want to make sure before I have them installed.
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Okay guys, I come here during my coffee break and frustration break. I have the top bolt out, I have the bike on jack stands and all the weight off the rear shock. I cannot get the bottom bolt/pin to turn. I have liquid wrenched the entire area, short of getting the heat on it, does anyone have an idea before I get out the BFH and start swinging? Which isn't always a bad idea, but hopefully there is a better way.
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...so, I'm wondering what type of maintenance things would make sense while I have a good chance. Backstory: I sealed my driveway a couple of years ago and even though I covered the bike while it was sitting in the garage (apparently not well enough), a couple of gusts of wind apparently blew some of the sealer up underneath the blankets. Well, I've tried and tried over the past couple riding seasons to get the sealer off the paint with no luck. It looks like really fine dried water spots all over. It's primarily on the right side of the bike on the saddlebag, both fenders and the lower fairing. Some did make it's way on to the left side as well, though not as bad. Nothing that I can see made it to the tank. Anyway, a couple of days ago I stopped a one of our local body shops who's owner I happen to know pretty well. I asked him if he'd be willing to give me an opinion on what to do. He and one of is body shop guys took a peak. They tried some 'high power' bug and tar remover with no luck. They agreed that whatever got on there apparently etched itself into the clearcoat and the only way to fix it would be to wet sand and buff it out. Well, I'm getting off REALLY easy on the cost but he asked that I bring him all the parts stripped down. Here we are: I removed both saddlebags, complete lower fairing, rear fender (I didn't have to remove the rear wheel), front fender and both side covers. To get the rear fender off I also removed the seats and the bracketting that holds the saddlebags. So, as you can imagine, she's pretty naked. I have a lot of things exposed right now and I thought this would be the perfect time to take care of some routine maintenance. I plan to change the rear fluid but are there other suggestions? How do I grease it up good? Your thoughts are appreciated. Hopefully I'll get my stuff back and can get things back together next weekend so I'd like to take care of stuff over the week or maybe next Saturday. Thanks, Les
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Finally got the rear tire mounted and wheel back on, but to what I think is to much gear noise. Not enough grease or did I put something back wrong? Little help please?
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Just going out to start my trailer wiring job thanks from advise from playboy (Vincent)and the harness from M61A1MECH (Steve) but I can't figure out how the rear seat comes off. I'm sure it's just a brain fart or maybe I need new glasses but anywho can someone point me in the right area. Thanks
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ON my RSTD do I need to remove the rear wheel in order to remove the rear fender??? I'm all the way to the point of pulling it off - its completely loose - but these two mounts pictured under the frame where the seat attaches don't seem to allow enough room to lift the fender free. Help would be great.
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I need to replace the rear brake pads so thought I may as well pull the wheel and grease the bearings and splines as well. Can't get a socket on the muffler clamp. Tried an 11mm, 12mm and 13mm but none will go on properly. Does it need a thin socket? I have a regular Craftsman set.
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Left rear turn signal quit working. Took it apart to find out it was full of rust. Used WD40 to clean the contact areas and got a new bulb and it still did not work. The rust may have done too much damage and I may need to replace the assembly or at least repair it. Has anyone got any advice or experience removing the turn signal assembly? Thanks in advance.
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