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Showing results for tags 'pressure'.
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During Vogel I used Stevew's carb tune to do a carb sync. When I hooked up the carb tune I found that my #2 cylinder was showing no pressure whatsoever. I was able to sync the remaning three cylinders. Now I'm faced with figuring out why I have no intake pressure on the #2 cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas what to look for? -
Hi. I'm a proud owner of a new 09 RSV. Just bought it Friday. The owners manual has an obvious miss print. It say's the low setting is 0 psi, Mid is 0 psi and high is 7 psi. After taking the wife for a ride today, I know I need to bump the pressure up some what. The owners manual is no help and I found nothing in a search. Can someone please give the the minimum and maximum pressure for the rear shock. TIA MIKE
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In preperation for a ride up the Blue Ridge Parkway I checked the tires. Front tread OK pressure OK. Rear - tread OK (not great, but OK) pressure a little high. 48lbs. End result - the guy behind me was looking for the man with an elephant gun. Blowout at 50 mph. Cord showing in three places and 2\32 tread inbetween. Bike was loaded but didn't feel any out of balance bounce. Tire had 4500 miles on it. DO NOT overinflate Avons.
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Ok this doesn't make sense to me but I don't know much about motorcycles. My volt gauge reads right at 12 volts but if while cruising down the road I keep slight upward pressure on the shift pedal it reads higher:confused: I guess I will just adjust the pedal so it always sits in that possition but I was wondering why it would do that? Also another issue with the kill switch. If I put any pressure on the switch it kills it. And I don't mean it the up direction that is supposed to kill it, I mean if it is down and running if I push down more on it it dies. If I relase the pressure its fine. It's not a big deal because if I don't touch it it's fine I was just wondering if that means the switch is going bad and should be replaced so it doesn't cause a problem in the future.
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I just finished the water temp voltmeter and oil pressure gauge install. I have a 4.1 mile trip to work where most of my milage is put on. I get poor milage usually and I was wondering. My engine doesn't even get to where the fan kicks on by the time I get to work and my oil pressure at idle is 20. when i take a longer trip ;the idle oil pressure is about 10, which is to be expected as the viscosity decreases. I wonder if my short trip mileage is bad because the engine is not warm enough? I remember I think between naps in my thermo classes many(38) years ago that the higher temps are more efficient as a rule. any thoughts?
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After much bother I finally got the Kumno beaded on the rim. The first tire would not come up all the way around on one side. The folks At Discount Tire swapped it for a new one. Same problem, but on the opposite side of the rim. After everyone pretty much gave up, I contacted a truck tire repair shop. At least he wasn't afraid to squeeze a bunch of air into it. Previously I had gone up to 100+ psi. He had a can of some really slick stuff called "Bead Breaker". That and about 120 psi or so and it finally popped on completely. Now, after about 15 miles of riding on it I think I'll have to play with the pressure. I am running 35 psi and when accelerating in a turn it feels like it wants to slip a bit. Maybe drop the pressure a few #s and try it again. Otherwise it's great.
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Yesterday I had to ride 5 miles of uphill, washbaorded, winding dirt road - wasn't fun at all. I took most of it at about 5-10 mph. Has anyone had any problems with their bike (mine is an 83 Venture) handling weird after riding on similar roads? It feels very weird at speed on pavement now - like I'm riding on a road filled with grooves that my bike wants to track. I wonder if something was bent or something. I guess something could have become loose. Or maybe my tire pressure is just low (which doesn't make sense why the dirt road would result in low tire pressure). Any ideas and/or experiences? Thanks, Doug
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At the risk of sounding stupid how much air pressure is every one running in their shocks on their 2nd generation RSVS? I have not checked my pressure but suspension seems "stiff"? Any help would be appreciated.
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5 weeks ago the Missus bought me the TireGard System for use on the Scalded Ape. I check my tire pressures every single morning whether I intend to ride or not and I guess the Missus was trying to save me some time/effort. Anyhoooo.....I put everything together from the Kit and slapped it on the bike. I am impressed with this TireGard I have to say. The tire sensors are right on the money and accurate. The Monitor has 26psi Low Pressure default setting....I changed that to 38psi. It is impossible to hear the "beeping alarm" while the bike is running and I am on the road. The Monitor also "vibrates" a warning if Low or High pressure occurs and that works very well if I keep the Monitor in my shirt pocket. Overall I am very happy with knowing the air pressure in the tires with just a push of the button and a glance at the Monitor when on the road. The tire sensor batteries are supposed to last 18 months and the Monitor battery is good for 1 year. Time will tell I suppose. The Monitor is not waterproof but fits easily in my shirt pocket protected from the elements. The TireGard system was purchased at CruiserCustomizing,com and the whole unit is made by Show Chrome Accessories. My Missus paid a little over $150 for it. Boomer.........who still checks his tires every morning with a high quality tire guage.
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today being stupid I was hammering my 1st gen shifting to 2nd ( missed shift) and lot of grinding started bottom left of engine. right where driveshaft goes to out put shaft, no matter what gear. limped home last 5 miles. the more throttle the more grind. grinds when under even slite pressure. put it on center stand all gears grind. what did i do? going to start pulling wheel off and pull drive shaft what am i looking for. big time sick at my stomach -
oil pressure light came on
mother posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
while riding today, the oil pressure light came on. i pulled over right away and shut the bike off. oil level was fine on the sight glass, so i carried on. the bike runs fine, and the next time i stop and restart the bike the light goes off, all back to normal. any answers would be appreciated. it is time for an oil change, would the filter be plugging and that be the reason the warning light came on? maybe there is a loose connection on the pressure sensor, anyone know where the sensor is located on the engine? cheers, Scott -
Dave and I started our grand adventure of zig zagging across this great country of ours last Thursday. Today after a beautiful riding day we found ourselves in Kentucky and we had the pleasure of meeting Joy and Wayne (Joysboy). Joysboy pulled up beside up after following us on route 92. He asked where we were heading and how much pressure we had in our back shocks. Now my butt knew the the pressure was low, but I hadn't convinced Dave of that. Dear Wayne offered to meet us ( he actually came to our hotel) with a handy gadget that checked and added air pressure to the shocks. The shocks are so much better now. Imagine going over bumps and having them not HURT. Thank you ever so much, Wayne, for all your help. Everytime we hit a bump in the road I am going to think of you. And you were right about the cafe. The catfish was wonderful. Have fun riding the Parkway, it is a beautiful ride. Sue T
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Now I know this is not much to brag about considering what this bike is capable of. but for me its a big step. Considering the person on back is the most important person in my life. It is also the first time I've had a passenger since getting back on a bike in 20 years. (Big wreck). Fortunately I wasn't hurt way back then, but I still ride with those demons every now and then. Add the pressure of my wife being with me and the old demons rose up and said hello.They were imidiately quieted as soon as the front tire hit the pavement and my wife put her arms around me a spoke in my ear. She told me all was well as our children were there to protect us from harm. HAd a few nervous moments. The first stop. The first hard turn and the other first that came along. Now just to remember to raise the air pressure the next time. As all was well and comfy, but rearend bottomed out a time or 2. Put her on the center stand and put the sytem to the high level and all was well with life again. I now its not much to brag on , but I just had to anyways. thanks for lisetening, or should I say reading. David
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Ok, here's the deal. The last thing I had to do today before I buttoned the bike back up was swap out the two front brake lines with the new braided SS one. So I hit the hard one first. The left front caliper from the metering valve on the steering head. Not as bad as I expected. Used an injector to fill the lines with fluid and bled it out from the top then the caliper. Slick. Done this a few times before so I got the linked system down to a science. Now the easy one. Of course this is where I get in trouble. Front brake master to the right front caliper. I ran the line down through and disconnected the lines from the caliper and hooked up the new SS line. I then cracked up the union on the master and quickly changed the lines. About 30 second to do it. Filled the res with fluid and then using the injector as a vacumn on the bleeder I pulled fluid down though the line. Filled the res again and discover I have no pressure on the brake lever. Went back to the bleeder and used pressure to back fill the system from the bottom. The res level increased but still no pressure on the lever. This master was rebuilt last year and has been working fine. I drove it into the garage this morning. Some how I lost pressure in the few seconds that I had the upper fitting off. How do I get this master to reprime without tearing it apart? Any ideas? -
The new set of Michelin Commanders I put on the bike are impressive. The bike handles soooooo much better! I don't believe I will ever put a set of Dunlops on a bike ever again. Today I rolled over 150 miles on the new tires and the little nubs are STILL in place on both of the tires...... Now all I gotta do is dial in the correct tire pressure to maximize the wear on these tires. Running 35psi on both tires now. Sidewalls on both tires say 41 psi max as taken cold. My guess is if I run them at max sidewall pressure that pressure will be higher than 41 psi when the tires heat up and that puts them in a over-pressure state which would quickly wear out the center of the tires. Any thoughts about this guys? Boomer.......who's gonna run the twisties pretty hard this weekend for sure......and leaving the sipping whiskey at home too.
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OK, I looked through the archives and couldn't find anything specific to the E2 error on the CLASS system. Here is the scenario, bike is a '89 with about 75k miles and tons of service records since new: When airing up the rear shock using the automatic setting of the CLASS, the pressure never gets above 35 psi for the rear shock. At about this range the pressure stops rising and the controller goes to E2 and cycles after 5 seconds to reset. E2 error code indicates that the controller does not detect a rise in pressure with the compressor running. The compressor runs and sounds relatively healthy, I really don't have a reference to compare. Here is what I have done so far: Re-soldered the CLASS controller, didn't find any broken solder joints, but re-soldered anyway Serviced the desiccant, found it to be pink in color, heated in the microwave until dark blue, checked the filters and replaced the O-rings in the container and lines Found the air intake filter almost disintegrated, disconnected the airlines and forced the compressor to run, replaced all the O-rings, cut a new air intake filter and re-installed Checked the valve block and pressure sensor, disconnected the air hoses and cleared the passages with the compressor Check all electrical connection, disconnected, cleaned and greased connection, checked for battery voltage at compressor Checked for pinched air hoses to the rear shock, disconnected hoses and manually inflated shock. The funny thing is that I can manually block the air fitting for the rear shock at the valve block and the pressure will rise up to 71 psi without any problems. I tried airing the rear shock up using the manual feature and if I let the compressor just run for a few seconds the pressure will ultimately begin rising. I can even get the rear shock up to 85 psi this way. But with the automatic function the pressure will not go past 35 psi with timing out into E2. Has anybody encountered this before? I know the air suspension on these bikes is touchy, but it drives me nuts. Two-up I really like running 71-75 psi in the rear, running this solo almost breaks my already damaged back. Has anybody a know good compressor and valve block laying around to verify that the problem is in this area? Thanks in advance for all your comments, Klaus -
I just installed a Barnett pressure plate on my '05 RSTD. I followed the instructions (which were cryptic at best), looked at Freebird's stuff, too. But obviously I've done something obviously wrong. The clutch won't engage at all now. I can pull in the lever (which doesn't feel right) pop it into 1st, and nothing happens. So the first question is: What did I do wrong? The second questions is: Why do I try to do things like this??? Any help with the first question would really be appreciated!
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here is an interesting article from IN THE SADDLE Get a grip How often do you take a really good look at your tires? Once a week? Once a month? Only if there’s a problem? “Tires are the most critical part of a motorcycle because they’re the only thing between you and the road,” says Patrick Fletch, service manager for Budd’s BMW Motorrad in Oakville, Ontario. If your bike’s tires aren’t well maintained, or if they’re poor quality to begin with, it can spell trouble when the rubber hits the road. If something goes wrong with your tires when you’re riding, it can have immediate and devastating results. “Regular maintenance will help keep your tires performing the way they should, and keep you safe,” adds Patrick. Here’s what he has to say about how to keep your tires in top shape. Check your tire pressure “Correct pressure is the key issue when it comes to tires because it’s overlooked all the time,” says Patrick. “I suspect that 30 to 40% of all riders never bother to check their tire pressure.” Low tire pressure not only affects tire life and fuel economy, but proper handling and braking. Overheating could lead to a blowout. Try to get into the habit of checking your tire pressure every time you fuel up. If you use your bike mostly for commuting, check your tires at least once a week. Tire pressure should be checked when tires are cold and they should be set to the manufacturer’s recommended specifications. Never exceed the maximum load indicated on the tire sidewall or listed in your manual. Equally important is your tire pressure gauge. Make sure that it is calibrated correctly, otherwise you can easily fill your tires to the wrong pressure. Take it to your dealer or a qualified service centre for comparison on a regular basis. Or, have them install a tire pressure sensor that will alert you to the changes in air pressure. Watch for tread wear If there’s not enough tread, or the tread shows signs of uneven or unusual wear (such as flat spots or feathering), you could be heading for trouble. A worn tread in combination with wet surfaces can cause poor handling. An easy way to determine when your tire should be replaced is by looking at the wear bar on the tire tread. Most manufacturers recommend that tires should be replaced when a minimum 1 mm (1/32”) tread depth remains. Look for tire and rim damage Tires take more abuse than any other part of a motorcycle. You should inspect tires for damage every time you take your bike for a ride. Look for visible damage such as abrasions, cracks, bulges, and splits in the sidewall or tread and punctures from nails that your tires have picked up along the way. Damage can occur when your tire forcefully strikes a solid object that you may not be able to see. Take it to an authorized service centre for inspection. The condition of your rims is equally important as they have a direct impact on the life of your tires. For solid rims, check for dents that can create air leakage or affect the balancing weight. If you have spoke rims, Patrick recommends that you have a professional replace broken spokes and tighten loose ones. Buy current tires “Another thing that gets overlooked by riders is the age of the tires,” Patrick says. “You should buy tires that are current-year production.” Because they’re a petroleum-based product, tires continually break down. The rubber compound will get harder over time. Patrick estimates maximum tire life at two to three years, regardless of whether the tire has been in use or sitting in a warehouse. “Be careful when you’re looking for a deal on a new set of tires,” he warns. Before you buy, check the age of the tire on the sidewall stamping. And never mix tires that don’t match, such as a radial with bias or bias-belted tire. It can dangerously affect your motorcycle’s handling characteristics. If in doubt about what tires should be mounted on your bike, always consult your owner’s manual or contact the manufacturer. Ride smart New tires have a slippery coating that should be properly “scuffed up” to get an optimal grip. That generally means no hard cornering or braking for the first 160 km. “It’s also very important that riders take time to know what new tires feel like, especially if they have a different tread pattern or are made by a different manufacturer than their old tires,” advises Fletch. If you look after your tires, they’ll look after you.
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I 'm a new member as well as a first time owner of an 88 VR. Never been bikeless since 1963 and currently ride a 90 PC. Very excited to get this VR on the road as soon as the snow melts here in Ontario but have one immediate issue. There is no clutch pressure so I checked the reservoir and it was empty - strange since the previous owner drove it to where it was parked, although that was a year ago (he bought a new RSV last year). I added some fresh fluid but couldn't get pressure. Should my first step be to bleed the line and then check to see that there are no visible leaks. Any advice on this problem or bleeding the line and anything else that I should do to check it out and make sure all is good. I hope to ride this bike for many years. [ATTACH]26653[/ATTACH] -
Is there a spot to tap into toread oil pressure for a oil pressure gauge? I took out the useless front fairing air ducting and made some great looking covers for where the vents were. I want to add a gauge to each side and figure a oil pressure gauge would be a good addition.
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Looks like I will be riding a new to me 07 venture home soon. It will be a 6 hour ride back home from the dealer. I want to know what is the correct pressure for the front and rear suspension, and the correct pressure for the front and rear tire? I am 6'-1" tall, 200#, very little cargo, and no passenger. Also, any other advice you may have as the venture is new to me. I have put a few miles on a couple ventures that I have looked at, so I know what to expect as far as handeling. Thanks.
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After installing the new tire, I initially had 32 lbs of air. It felt squirmy. Put 35 lbs of air in it and it still feels squirmy. Concerned about going above the tires max pressure of 35 lbs of air. I saw where others have used 40 lbs and even 44 lbs. Thoughts?
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Has anyone ever put Nitrogen in their shocks? Front or rear once you find the ideal pressure for the way you ride. Would it be feasible to do that or not? I see and read about people installing it in their tires and just wondered if in the shocks would even make it worth while? I found where "I" like the shocks at and found that I need to keep checking them for pressure. My thought was with the nitrogen I may not need to check but once a year? (Can you say , LAZY)?
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What kind of tire pressure are people running on your 1st generations? My bike has the Elite III's, don't have the manual.
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I just put a new set of Michelin Commanders on my RSV. The max pressure rating on side of tire says 41# both front and rear. I am used to running 42# in rear and 36# in front on my old set of 404's. The ones of you that have had Commanders what pressure have you run? I want to get the most out of these tires as possible and I know air pressure is very important.
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