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Showing results for tags 'pressure'.
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Anyone out there riding with these springs in the front, what air pressure are you running in the forks if any at all.. I was told that you needn't have to have air pressure as the springs were heavy duty enough to negate the need for air pressure. Not sure if I actually need to add air to my front end but ya never know.. ? -
Does anyone know of a crossover air line that can be connected to the front forks to add or release air to BOTH forks at the same time? Given the relatively low air pressure, it seems difficult to balance the air pressure in the forks separately. My old Virago had such a crossover air line and just one air valve for the front forks. Thanks, Steve
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I sync'd my carbs and just for grins before I put the pressure sensor line back on the left front cylinder, I grabbed my vaccum pump, connected it to the hose, and tried to pump a vaccum. I've got a leak in this line or the sensor itself. Does anybody know where the sensor is (89 Royale)? The logical place is next to the TCI unit, but that's just a guess and it'd be nice to know where it is before I start taking more apart. Frank D. -
after talking to some members yesterday i got some answers but forgot one question so here it goes. check my pressure before riding and the front is 36 and the rear was 44.5,my question is if i drive 2.7 miles to the station(outside temp is 75)and recheck them and i want my front at 38 and rear at 48 do i just ad the differance (say front i need to ad two pounds)from the temp at the station example the front temp went up to 37..5 do i make it read 39.5 which will be ading the org two pounds or not. guess i could of wordrd it a bit easyier.
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I have a simple pressure washer ?. It is related to using the soapy washer option. I thought that all one has to do is to fill a container with appropiate washer fluid and then put the little plastic tube with the nozzel in the container. Start up the pressure washer and when pressing the spray trigger the process will start to suck the washer fluid with the water. I also did make sure the adjustment at the plastic tube nozzel is open to suck up the soapy solution. Any suggestion ?
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The fuel pressure switch sends constant voltage to the fuel pump relay on my bike. I can see this when the pressure is low but when pressure is achived I stll get 10.2 volts up to the relay ?????? is this normal ????? The relay will close when it gets 10.9 volts or higher. I guess I am just wondering if I need to change it or not. Or just let the pump run full time LOL.... Any help would be appreicated... -
I had a little noticeable "bounce" in the steering head...first thought..check air pressure... The first side I checked was 5 psi...other side 7 psi. When I went to relieve some pressure from the 7 psi side, I had both a small amount of oil and air escape the schraeder valve. Question -> Should OIL be coming out of the air schraeder valve? Is this normal?
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Well I have an odd problem. At speeds over 50 or so the bike seem to have a wiggle in the rear. It is not a lot but kinda acts like a flat rear tire. I have checked air pressure and everything I can think of. It is like I am wiggling the bars. It did not do it so bad that I could not handle it but I do not like it. Any ideas? Thank You, Shaun
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2008 RSV, Fuel pump will not hold proper pressure. Bike runs a little week. Have one on order. Does anyone know the out-put operating pressure of the OEM fuel pump? Or where this information can be found. I have this idea I can find an after market pump to carry on trips as a back up, if I can get the specs on the OEM pump. Have had success doing this with Cages. Used to work in auto part industry and saved a lot of people money on pumps for Volvos and BMWs back 8 or so years. Thanks.
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Since I got my 2nd Gen I've been following this topic pretty closely (something about having to replace a $700 part get's my attention). I haven't seen this discussed, but I was wondering if there is any common denominator with the shocks that have failed. Like is it mainly guys that run the max air pressure, minimum air pressure, mostly two up, greater weight load on the bike, etc, etc, etc. It seems odd to me that some go and others don't and if there's something I can do to help keep me in the "don't" category I'd like to do it. Anyway...just random wondering.
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I just completed my complete motorcycle maintenance getting ready for the summer rides. I adjusted the air shocks on both the rear and front forks using the following tools and they worked great. It is so nice working with such accurate tools. I brought the rear pressure up to 35 lbs and the front shock up to 3lbs. The bike was place on my motorcycle stand prior to adding the air as the manual states. Some folks are saying that there is no pressure difference if the bike is on the side stand or on a motorcycle lift. However I will most always go with the service manual but have devitated several times in my life! ha ha Anyway here is the tools that I used and they worked great/SUPER. I used the pressure pump to put the air in the front shock and took it to about 6 lbs although I only wanted 3 lbs. With the 0 to 15 lbs gage I just removed some air slightly until it reached 3 lbs. Worked great with the low pressure gage. It was hard to tell the low pressure accurately with the 0 to 60 pressure pump. So two gages are required for good results. I use a Harley Progressive pump # 54630-03A, 0 to 60 lbs. and Accugage low pressure gage SX series, 0 to 15 lbs which I bought from BikeBandit.com, part# 24729 (TR-150251). See Photo attached. Hope that this helps someone. DanC -
I'm making plans for some mods and/or upgrades this winter....auxiliary power, rear lights and etc.... I have read many valuable posts, made notes, saved pictures and etc. I extremely value and analyze the opinions of those that have "been there and done that"....this site has some very intelligent and sharing members....Thanks. Having and maintaining the proper air pressure in the front shocks is paramount for the RSV to handle consistently... in my opinion. The air volume in the front shocks, being so small, I drop the compressor tank pressure to 6psi, check and recheck, then air my front shocks.....very time consuming, but the most accurate way that I know. I did many searches, but have not found the answer to my "BRAINSTORM" sooo "HELP". I plan to use a quality 1/8 or 3/16 air line and fittings to tee and join the front shocks together, run the air line back to a saddlebag, where I will have the Progressive Pump and Pressure Gauge.......Will I need to use check valves to avoid issues in a curve...with the shocks teed together ??? I'm sitting...sooo.. YOUR OPINION ?? Thanks in advance:thumbsup2: Freddie
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I work for Modine and I bought and installed one of their ceiling hung heaters that was on clearance. Installed it in Sept. and it worked perfect until last week when the weather cooled off drastically. It is hooked up to a 100 lb bottle that probably has a foot of liquid left in it. The pilot went out and I can't get it to light again. I assumed it was a pressure problem. Yesterday it got into the 50s and it worked again. I figured that confirmed what I thought. Today it cooled off again. I made a pressure gauge for inches of water column from plans on the internet. Hooked it up to the input side of the valve ( a Robertshaw 720-402) and it measured exactly 11 inches just like it was supposed to. Part of my problem is that the company sent instructions for an intermittent pilot valve and mine is a standing pilot. When I hooked the gauge up to the output side it shows no pressure and of course I can't get it to light again. What does an expert think?
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I ain't as young as I used to be...but, I still like to make sure I've got the right tire pressure. I ride a first gen. MKI and the way they are setup, it's difficult to use a tire pressure gauge. So, after fighting the bike a few times (the bike won), I decided to come up with a better mouse trap. It actually works pretty good, so I thought I'd share it. I took the manifold off an old discarded portable air tank to start with. It's basically a hexagonal metal pipe with several ports tapped into it. It had 4 - 1/8" NPT ports (only need 3) and a 3/8" which I capped. Add a hose with a self-locking chuck. Swap the original gauge (0-125 PSI) with a more accurate 0-60 PSI. I left the original safety (although it probably wouldn't trigger until after the gauge was gone). I set the regulator on my compressor to 60 PSI. Now I can just attach the chuck to the air valve on the wheel, add or release pressure as desired, and when finished remove the air chuck. I just have to remember to release pressure from the rig when I'm finished so as to not keep pressure on the gauge. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n163/coy55boy/Misc/airpressurerig.jpg
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I was reading on the Pashnit motorcycle forum this morning and seen this thread. I never gave that much thought about tire pressure gauges reading right. Here the thread. http://www.pashnit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28054
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i have a quick question for someone...i ordered the barnett kit (all friction discs, steel discs, and pressure plate w/ springs) and it arrived yesterday. I plan on tackling my clutch today or tomorrow but everything i read mentions to "line up the grooves at 11 oclock and 5 oclock". The problem i am having is...the barnett friction discs have no grooves on any of the tabs. I dont want to get the basket opened up only to realize i have the wrong discs. Can someone with some knowledge help me out here. Since i am replacing the pressure plate does it no longer matter about the grooves? Thank you all for your input. -Motor
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2006 Venture, changed fluidin the brakes with no problems. Changed and Bled the clutch and now NO pressure. Purchased a Mighty Vac and still no Pressure. Help........thank you Cb
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Well boys, I had a short run on the dark side...about 2500 miles total. I had the Kuhmo on the rear and enjoyed 95% of the experience. The traction was superb, the rear wheel braking was awesome, i didnt notice any difference in the twisties...BUT, where i had the bad experiences were on freeways. Out here in Cali, we have some pretty deep "rain grooves" that at higher speeds could cause a bit of an unpredictable experience. There were somedays i could be travelling at 80 to 85 with no issues then others I would go into a wobble. I checked and maintained the tire pressure often as well as the air pressure of the rear shock so i am certain there were no "outside" influences on my experience. Bottom line is, It just isnt stable enough for my personal riding style. With that said...I have a Kuhmo 165/80/15 with abt 2500 miles on it that is up for grabs...just pay shipping and its yours!
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OK folks, I have received a couple of emails reminding me that I have kept you all in the dark about my eye. What can I say, I still have it and it is looking better from the side that YOU see but from the inside, it doesn't work at all. I knew that would be the case though. The vision has been gone for several months now and this latest surgery was just to relieve pressure, stop the headaches and hopefully save the eye from having to be removed. So far, so good. I had an appointment today and the pressure was back down in the normal range. There is still come redness but it is getting better. I am down from putting 4 prescription eye drops in my eyes 4 times a day to using only one prescription 2 times a day so that is good. The doctor said today that they eye looks good and doesn't want to see me again until December. Now that is the Glaucoma specialist. I have an appointment with the cataract specialist next week and apparently he will be removing a couple of stitches that I didn't even know I still had. I thought they were all the dissolving kind but apparently not. I guess that is the irritation that I feel from time to time. Then I go see the eye oncologist again in December for another routine checkup. The bottom line is.....everything is going as expected and I guess that's all good.
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If your like me you probably use your laptop alot. Maybe sometimes while your eating southern BBQ finger foods like ribs. You know how your keyboard keys seems to get dirty and greasy. Or maybe you might leave the thing open for days and weeks at a time letting a layer of dust settle on the screen. Like I do. If so resist the urge to use a pressure washer to clean it up. This method of cleaning is highly over rated. At least for a laptop and may actually cause physical harm to this sensitive electronic device. Go figure:confused24:.....Who would have thunk it? But, that is exactly what a painting contractor did to mine at work the other day by the hands of his non english speaking hispanic pressure washer operator. This over achieving pressure washer operator in an attempt to impress the English speaking citizens of his new found country took it upon himself to go one step beyond the call of duty when pressure washing the concrete floor patio outside of my office. Evidently he thought the high wall fresh air intake grill 10 feet above the ground needed a little cleaning too so he hosed it down. Not thinking what happens to the water passing through the grill. Which happened to be the grilled opening to the fresh air intake plenum directly above my desk. My desk where my laptop was laying unsuspectingly open, on and collecting dust.....As it normally does.:bang head::bang head: I still do not understand how he knew my laptop was on the other side of that windowless wall :superman:and directly below that fresh air vent... and that it was open and dirty. But, his aim was pretty good because every drop of water managed to land on my dirty keyboard and screen, :95:missing entirely the company owner computer, walkie talkie radios and pagers laying directly alongside. Well needless to say a clean keyboard aint everything because it immediatly went blank, started humming, buzzing and rolled over dead. The good news is the contractor entertained me at Best Buy today while I got to pick out a shinney brand new laptop with all of the latest bells and whistles. He even springed for the cost of the Geek Squad doing the Vulcan mind melt routine to transfer the contents of my old hard drive to the new bigger hard drive on my new laptop computer.:mo money: The Geeks have also called to tell me that the Vulcan mind melt thing is complete and I can pick up my new internet ride anytime I wanted. So, in the morning before it gets hot I'm gonna ride the old scoot:7_6_3[1]: up to pick up my new puter. Cant wait to take her for a test ride........ Windows 7 no more Vista WOO HOOOOOO:cool10:
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Over the last week, the RSV would not start when I hit the start button. At first I thought maybe I did nto have the stand all the way up, although I was in Neutral anyhow. Checked it then hit the button again and it started. It has doe this 3 or 4 times in the last week. Today, I discovered that when I push the button with a slight upward pressure, no start. Slight downward pressure, start. I am assuming that the contact on the start button is wearing out. Common? Bike still has 1 1/2 yr warranty, but I don't want to be stuck somewhere with the bike not starting.
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It's been a long time since I've posted an update on my health situation here. Not that I've been trying to hide anything but there just hasn't been much to report since the surgery and radiation a year ago. I've been back to Boston twice for follow-up visits and have been told each time that the tumor is shrinking and things look like they are supposed to at this point. That all changed last Friday. I had been in Evansville, IN all week and was having no problems. When I woke up on Friday morning, my eye was a little red and it felt like I had an eyelash or something in it. I also had a slight headache at that time. I really thought that I had somehow gotten something in my eye during the night and it would be better in a day or two. Went through the weekend thinking at times that it was getting better but at other times, feeling that it was getting worse. Headaches had gotten very bad and I was taking Tylenol to address it. Woke up on Monday morning and got ready to head out to Michigan for the week. Stopped by the post office on my way out and by the time I was finished there, my head was throbbing, eye was very red and hurting like heck and I knew that I was NOT going to make it to Michigan. Went back home and called my local eye doctor. She got me in around noon and did not like what she saw. She says that the pressure was slightly high and was causing my headaches but also a lot of blood vessels growing in the eye where there should not be any. She immediately got me an appointment at the Cole Eye Institute of the Cleveland Clinic. The appointment was for Wednesday but she was so worried about the pressure that she had me come back to her on Tuesday so that she could make sure it hadn't gotten too much higher. So, went to the Cole Eye Institute yesterday for what turned out to be a four hour ordeal. A LOT of tests to determine that I have now developed Neovascular Glaucoma in the eye that I had the radiation treatment done on. Turns out that about 16% of the people who have this radiation treatment will develop Neovascular Glaucoma. I'm one of those lucky few. The visit went downhill from that point. I have never been too crazy about shots but I had a total of 4 needles put in my eye yesterday. The worse was the very first one...the "numbing" shot. That one was followed by an injection of some chemical that is supposed to neutralize the natural chemical in the eye that is causing the blood vessels to grow. That injection resulted in my eye pressure going from about 20 to about 74 and another massive headache. Simple to remedy that. All they had to do was insert another needle into my eye and draw off some of the fluid. Once couldn't be enough though so they had to do it a second time. The worse part is that they tell you that you absolutely must be still and NOT jump. I dare any of you to try and NOT jump when they stick a needle in your eye. They told me that it really wouldn't hurt much...I call BS on that. So, these were all temporary procedures to address the immediate pressure, inflammation and pain. Next week I go back to see a Glaucoma specialist to find out what the next steps are but it will almost certainly involve more surgery. The goal now is to address the Glaucoma while hopefully saving the eye but I was told that removing the eye may be the only option either now or in the future. Finally made it home yesterday evening and I tell you, my eyes were so dilated that I couldn't even stand to look at the screen of this laptop. I needed to add Snarley's rally to the countdown page and add the Ladyrider's shirts to the merchandise section and it was all I could do to get those two little things done. Never thought I would need sunglasses to work on the website. Anyway, that's been my week and the reason that I haven't been posting very much. Things WILL get better. It's just another little bump in the road.
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Lately when I try to put some pressure into my suspension, according to the class, the pressure goes up kind of fast but the bike doesn't go up at all. The first time this happened, it worked fine 6 or 7 miles later down the road. I'm not getting any kind of error code or anything. This happens on the front or rear, doesn't matter. Any ideas? Thanks, Bill
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Here are some photos of the Avon Venom tire that "wore out". The cords show in three places on one-half of the tire. I'm looking for some feedback on the following (so don't hold back ): 1) The tread wear indicators(TWI) on these tires are essentially WORTHLESS. How do you use the TWI? They are on the outer edge of the tire...where the cords are showing, the TWI looks almost new! 2) How do you gauge tire wear on these tires? Seems like tracking mileage is the most "popular" method. 3) It almost looks like the tire was over-inflated?? I usually keep the rear tire at 38 psi...but...prior to leaving for Charlotte (pulling a trailer) I bumped up the pressure to 42 psi. 4) If the tire is at 42 psi, and the ambient air temperature is +94-98 degrees, what happens to the pressure in the tire? Common sense says that the tire pressure could/should expand 2-8 psi. That means that the tire pressure could be as high as 50 psi.
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Ok I have some 67,000 miles under my 2004 RSV and have been on the Dunlop 404 WWW for the most. Last set I changed to the Elite3 Dunlop. I would like to see if any others have had similar findings. Yes I read about folks getting all kinds of diffrent mileage from all the diffrent tires, but I have the following findings and are looking for another opinion. Dunlop 404 Changed at miles Tire Life Miles 05-20-06 11,655 miles 11,655 05-05-07 22,575 miles 10,920 04-20-08 33,530 miles 10,955 07-12-08 43,614 miles 10,084 05-15-09 51,741 miles 8,127 11-10-09 58,950 miles 7,209 Dunlop Elite3 07-22-10 67,141 miles 8,191 Looking to make a change for more mileage than I have been getting. 80% of the time two up and on the back roads in the mountains. I ride hard on the throttle and like I stole it in the curves. Dunlop 404's I had decent mileage but the performace was lacking, however I did not have the awful tractor tire roar that the Dulop Elite 3 has in the curves. Elite 3 performace in all conditions were unfalable but the noise is terrible. I thought the clutch basket noise was bad. Rear shock still has fluid and still holds air with never leaking. Tires are always checked for pressure before it rolls out of the garage no matter if it is just down to the store. Pressure nevers seems to be low. I always run at 41 PSI. Thoughts from the all great would be appreciated!
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