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Showing results for tags 'pressure'.
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Was reading an old thread about the Kumho Wobble: http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50114&highlight=kumho+wobble I recently put a Kumho on and have the wobble at 75mph. I'm going to adjust the air pressure before I try other things. Looks like air pressure, suspension part replacement, and tightening things up solved this for most folks. Any other solutions?
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These look like they might be progressive but I do not know for sure. There is very little travel for my forks and I am constantly bottomong out. If they are stock they are worn out. If they are progressive they may not have the correct spacers. when I took the cap off there was verry little pressure.
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Anyone using these tire pressure monitors? These are only $30...I was looking at the Big Bike Parts wireless tire monitor but not ready to blow $228 for that. But would be nice to know the pressure's ok without getting under the bike with a gauge. If anyone is using these, how do you like them??? Thanks for the info...JR
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It seems I now have the duty of Well Tender on my property. Last good man quit and the small time drilling company has said from the main line tap is my responsibility. I guess since I am a free gas customer not making them any money it's my problem. The old gas well was drilled back in the sixties with an old spudder rig. I remember back as a kid she would roar when you blew the water drip on ocassion.Nowdays I blow the water valve weekly through the winter months and she has little pressure and not much volume.I bet the main line pressure is less then 50 psi.One of my questions is can I use a air guage,compression tester, or buy something from the local hardware store to check line pressure at the input and output of the high pressure regulators? Last winter the old well was making more water then gas and we fought gas on and off for weeks before getting the company out to swab the well. My well runs three houses on my property Dad's,Mine,and my Daughters so I maintain the plumbing to all three.From the pickup tap located 50 ft from the well we go into a small seperator tank with a mix of antifreeze in it. The output of that tank goes into another small overflow tank the one with the blow valve on top.From there we are tee connected to the two high pressure regulators.Mine is the blue high low regulators on the left. The other high regulator goes to my dauthers house via the yellow line going under ground. Her low pressure regulators is at her house before entrance. Dad's low regulator is after her tap in the picture.Don't laugh at the plumbing in the picture I need to do some cleanup work I know. When things are really bad like last winter the regulators freeze off daily. They had to be taken apart and cleaned by our local well tender last year who also serviced the water seperator tank.This year guess thats my responsibility.All this Marcellus drilling in WV have the local well tenders running to the Big Money Companys for Jobs.I had to reset Dad's regulator yesterday. It was a cold night followed by a quick warm period during the day and the regulator shut off.Mine has been going off about twice a week since Thanksgiving. http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m580/ggrabose/Falls%20Mill/PC250974.jpg
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The CLASS system on my bike is acting up. I noticed it this summer but decided to wait until the winter months to tear in to it. The time has come. I thought that it just wasn't holding air due to a broken line but tonight I found that I don't have a broken air line. Here is what is happening When I turn the key to accessory, the discharge valve opens and all of the air is let out of the system. Leaving the system in the AUTO mode, I can pump up the front. When the desired pressure is reached, I get a small puff of air out of the discharge valve and everything is fine. According to the service manual this is normal. When I pump up the rear, the desired pressure is reached and then the discharge valve opens and lets all of the air out. I can immediately pump it back up but as soon as it hits the correct pressure, the discharge valve opens and all of the air escapes. Tonight I learned that the manual mode works fine. I can add or release air as needed. I also noticed tonight that I was getting a random E4 code that could be cleared by cycling the power. I never got this code during the summer. Even though the correct pressure is registering on the display, does this sound like a defective pressure sensing unit? -
looking for recommendations for tire pressure for the following set up Royal Star Venture Nexxan Car Tire on Rear Wheel Side Car setup Anyone with similar set up please respond
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Before my long trip in april, i am considering replacing my rear shock. Has anyone done this? Do they make a good aftermarket shock. I dont really need an adjustable one, just something that i know wont fail during my long trip. (i started reading about the broken frame issue, and think a new shock might help, since my frame doesnt have a rust issue.). Is there a way to see if my shock is working properly? In the past i have increased the air pressure in the rear shock, just to see it go back to its original pressure and height days later. My bike is not a Royale. I just want some imput, because i know that these are very pricey. -
Talk about a STUPID senior moment. I went to change the fork oil the other day and not thinking squatted down in front of the little drain screw and took it out. I hadn't released the air pressure. Talk about an oil bath, my wife is still laughing at me.
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Last Wednesday and Thursday on the way home from my rear brakes locked up on me. I had a 8mm wrench that I used to release the pressure. I was surprised to see steam coming out of the bleeder valve. I pumped the brake until fluid came out. This released the pressure enough to get me home. Friday before going to work I bled the rear brakes then rode to and from work with no issues thinking all was good now. This happened to me a month or so ago but I thought it was water in the fluid or just over filling it and bleeding them seemed to work. So Saturday my daughter asked if she could use my bike to get to work and since I can’t ride for a week (had recent surgery to remove a basal cell carcinoma from my forehead) I let her take it. I warned her about the possibility of the brakes locking up and what to do if they do. Well they locked up on her. She handled the bike just fine and got off to the side of the road. She got off the bike proceeded to take the right bag off and a Highway Patrol officer pulled up offered to help but had no real knowledge for these bikes so he just turned his lights on and positioned his vehicle to help protect her from traffic. (I would like to say thanks to that officer) She got the bag off (she noticed that it was melting and actually bubbling where it was closest to the brake caliper) released the pressure and was able to continue on to work. I am also thinking that I may need to replace my rear brake pads (probably glazed from the heat)
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I'm looking to tap in to your experience so that I get started in the right direction. My 86 VR rear shock stopped holding pressure this past weekend. It will pump up to whatever I select but if I immediately go back and check the pressure, the LCD says 0 pounds at which point it will pump up again. The only air I hear leaking when I do this is the bleed off valve at the end of the compressor cycle. I did some research here and it looks like the rear shock is the place to start or are there other common failures that should be checked first. Is there a trick to getting to the components on the rear shock or am I in for some serious disassembly? Thank you for the help, Ray
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Can anyone tell me how much travel should be in the pressure plate when working the clutch lever? Mine travels about 3/32nds of an inch but the clutch does not want to disengage, I'm thinking I might have air in the line but so far have not been able to bleed any out.
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I've got a leaky seal on my front forks. Due to financial constraints, they will have to wait to get fixed this winter. As of now, they don't have much pressure of any kind to them and riding a low rider without much suspension is not my cup of tea.... Lol. The class system flashes E1 which I'm assuming from what I've read is due to the lack of pressure or ability to create pressure. Anywho? Any easy ways to refil these with fluid and/or air so I can have a few more good rides this season before she gets overhauled this winter? Thanks guys! -
It was running great for about 30 minutes. When I got a chance to hammer down and open her up I did. The power sure feels good. Then all of a sudden the VR was not as responsive and not as smooth. But it still ran ok up to speed. Got home and I started it up and felt the pressure at the exhaust. The right side seems to produce a little less pressure. It seem to start right up. Now before I started the ride I filled the tank and put about 5 oz of Seafoam for my plans are that when I got home I would fill the tank up again and put more Seafoam then it would pretty much sit for several months. Of course I would start it up to normal running temperture once a month. This is because I just purchased a 91 VR with less than 7000 miles on it. I was going to take all the accessories/goodies of my 89 VR and put them on the 91. So my troubleshooting plans are to do the following: 1) Pull each plug and see what the plugs tell. Put my backup set in, run the VR 2) The Seafoam may have loosen some carb gunk and so I was going to open the bowel drain screw. Then also unscrew the carb bowl drain plug. If anyone has some better trouble shooting suggestions, I'd be greatful. -
I was going to post this in reply to a members fuel problems, but decided to start a new thread so it could be located later for reference. Here is a bunch of pictures I took of a 1st gen fuel pump a week ago just for S&G's. The RSV is probably similar, but I don't know. Just offering this as maybe some help in understanding the mysterious fuel pump. It is not a really technical description below, but the basic operation. In a nutshell, the pump operates by energizing a coil and pulling the plunger towards the contact end. This pushes in the contact assembly on the other end, breaking the current path to the coil. The plunger returns to rest position, contact closes & cycle repeats. When the plunger pulls towards the contact, it pulls gas in from the tank into the pump cavity via a one way valve. On the Return stroke the fuel is pushed out another valve towards the carbs. This happens until 1 of 2 things occur, first is pump builds up pressure in line and and the plunger does not return forward to complete pump stroke. 2nd is the fuel pump circuit times out after 4 seconds of not sensing motor running and cuts off current to pump. On pump end there are two diaphragm type valves, one allows fuel to be pulled in to pump cavity, but not pushed back out. Other allows fuel to be pushed out towards carbs, but not flow back into carbs. Not my best tech write up. Gary
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So I love my new bike (well new to me - 2008 RSTD) however I have the low speed heavy handling issue described here. It isn't real bad, but it does tend to want to dive to the inside on low speed turns and it is a little tough to keep straight coming up to a stop light without some wiggle room. I have checked the tire pressure, but have not checked the air in the suspension on either end. I have read that 0 PSI front and 25 PSI rear seems to be a common suggestion (along with 40PSI Front & 42 PSI Rear for tire pressure with Dunlops). I have read about changing the level links as a solution along with possibly changing the front tire to something a little narrower. Could someone explain what is going on here with the suspension and tire footprint? I get the tire pressure concept, but I don't understand how the suspension works i.e. air over shock, the level link change, and the narrow tire. Thanks very much. -
We are brand new to the RSV. We took one out for a test ride at a dealer's and I know it was more cushiony than ours is. Ours is a 2006 RSV. It has the stock seats, which are nice to us (compared to our cruiser Mustang seats, which weren't nearly as nice) but I find the ride a bit rough. On the one we took for a ride, he hit the bumps and I barely felt it in my back. Can someone please tell me how to adjust the air to make the ride softer for the passenger? We are getting the manual but don't have it yet and I have no idea how to read what it's set at, where it should be set, what's better, higher pressure or lower pressure, etc. I want as soft a ride as possible for my back's sake. Hubby and I aren't light so I want to be sure we don't hurt the bike, either. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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I ride with the air pressure on automatic normal settings. I think that is about 15 lbs front 40 lbs rear. Soon my wife will ride for the first time in 28 years and. Just out for a leasure ride. With all my normal carring stuff and me and my wife, I'm guessing about 330 lbs total. Interested in others air pressure recommendations experience for a 1st Gen MKII..
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My trailer weighs 156 lbs. It has 12 inch tires. It calls for 60 lbs of tire pressure Max. Since it will never weigh over 250 or 275 lbs loaded, should I run 60 lbs or can I run less air pressure? I don't want to run anymore than I need to be safe. Thanks Richard
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Hi All, I bought an 83 with twenty thousand miles on it. I am experienceing a problem with the engine makeing burp noises and emitting smoke around the tank filler area. The smoke is blueish, like it prolly is crankcase blowby or would be similar to the exhaust of a car that is burning large amounts of oil. This bike does NOT emit blue smoke from the tailpipes at all. The burp sound, and this emission of smoke, typically happens at low rpm, maybe no more than 2500, under mostly very light to no throttle. The first times I heard it, there was just a burp noise and the emission, but the last time it happened, it was substantially louder, and there was a hiss at the end, along with a larger amount of smoke. I was travelling about fifteen mph in second gear, and it just happened. My impression is that this must be a build up of crankcase pressure, that somehow gets forced out thru the cc vent, into the air cleaner, then perhaps the air cleaner assembly has a rubber seal that is disturbed enough to make the burp sound, and separates releasing the built up crankcase pressure, or at least this is what I think. What think ye all, please.
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Ok last weekend I opted to replace both front and rear tires. The rear was pretty much shot so I decided to step the size down to help reduce the ride height a bit. I have a 28" inseam so the VR can get a little top heavy for me. Anyway I digress; I went with a Shinko 712 (100/90) up front and a Shinko 777 (130/90 6 ply) rear. BTW, thanks to this great forum I was able to get both front and rear wheels off (kneeling). While the wheels were at the dealership getting tires mounted and balanced. I was able to completely service the rear diff and grease everything up. Man those splines were dry as a bone and rusty (explains the roaring noise). I also repalced the brake pads while I was there. Once I got the wheels back I replaced the seals and bearings in them too. All in all, not a bad way to spend the weekend if you ask me. I have to say I am absolutely thrilled with the low speed handling however at anything above about 70 mph it seems the front starts to shimmy around a bit. I originally had too much air pressure all the way around so I dropped it 4 lbs in the front and 2 lbs in the rear. Bringing it to 36 front and 45 rear, even at that pressure I am still getting the shimmy motion (kinda like being buffeted by a strong crosswind) even when there is nothing around but me and superslab with no breeze. I have since dropped the rear shock pressure and made sure the front was as close to zero as I can get (progressive springs installed with heavier oil). I will see if that helps. If not I am totally puzzled. -
Modifying my Harbor Freight (HF) trailer to haul the Rsv to the Cody rally. I have been using it to haul my Seadoo RXP back and forth to the river since 2005 and at 900 lb. its never been a problem. Made a rack for it that is bolted to the top of the trailer. Attempted to put the axle above the springs but changed my mind when i saw a place on the frame that had the paint knocked off due to a hard hit(pothole). So I put axle back under springs. Was worth while as i tore everything apart cleaned and repacked wheel bearings and used marine grade grease. The mods made are: 1. Installing pressure treated 2x4 cut down "in" the last rear portion of the frame 2. 1 piece of 3/4" pressure treated plywood.(OVER EXISTING 1/16 DIAMOND steel) ** 1&2 were done as i worried about all of the pressure the wheels would put at just one point on trialer ** 3. Getting rid of the old ratching winch and replacing with a HF remote control 3000 lb. electric winch with a marine battery and box. 4. Installing a motorcycle front wheel chock from HF. 5. Installing a spare tire holder from HF. 6. need to find a +5 rise 1 1/4" hitch bar so the Toyota Corolla 11" top of receiver will yeild a level trailer 16" at tongue.
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I have been getting a pulsation from the steer tire when going straight down the road. Different air pressure to the forks makes a slightdifference. More pressure, more pulse. The tire were is normal. Any ideas?
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I have a Drag Specialties liquid filled gauge installed by the PO with tap in usual place near the clutch. Pressure is within spec per the yammy manual so I believe it to be normal but as some of you know it's essentially 0psi with a hot motor at under 2k rpm. I have to assume it's reading the other side of the relief valve or something. Any of the experts here know why the readings are so darned low on a warmed up motor? -
I have 08 RSTD what you think about what I carry for air pressure? I run 36 frt and 42 rear. Star4772
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Just curious what ya'll are running for pressure (front & rear) on your E3's ... what seems to work best? Dunlop MFG shows max load front @ 41psi and 40psi for rear.
