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Showing results for tags 'oil'.
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I just got back from a 2600 mile trip to S Dakota from Southern UT. Now my 03 RSV is leaving little spots of oil on the garage floor under the vent hoses that come out of the bottom of the motorcycle just aft of the engine. The oil spot is about 2 to 3 inches long and 1 inch wide and it is not dark dirty motor oil but still it looks like motor oil. My guess it is coming from some kind of breather hose or something. Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this? I didn't have this same issue last year when I got home from a 6500 mile coast to coast trip. Thanks Kent
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Guys, I have had my spin on Rivco adapter since 1991. I have been using Puro-classic 10193. Now after just 1600 miles I have noticed my oil is way darker than ever using my usual Mobil1 20w50. I can't see the back of the sight glass w/o a flashlight. And I am going to change it soon. NOTE: I have dyno tuned the bike, not running rich and getting 38 mpg 75mph hiway and 43 mpg back rural roads every day. Maybe The filters are now made different or I got a bad one that the "bypass" was stuck. Thus not filtering. I once used a PureOne and found it was way too restrictive. Actually significantly lowered the oil pressure showing on my gauge. And thus used only the Purolator-classic for 20 years. Q: What spin on filters do you guys use? Wix, STP, Napa ??? ANd how clean does your oil come out?...obviously clean is a relative term. I always find the sight glass on the centerstand a good gauge. -
I have a friend who is visiting with his 87 Venture. He dropped the bike on the kick stand side a couple of days ago. No apparent damage, so he rode it for an hour after. Everything was fine. Today he was heading to my house and the oil level indicator came on along with the flashing red light. His oil level is at the top of the sight glass and was changed about 1000 miles ago. Does anyone know where the sending unit is for the oil level warning or have any ideas? Thanks ..... Peter
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hello all after i put the carbs on from pinwell my stator caskit started leaking so bad i had to replace it when i put oil back in and ran it for a minite or so to ck the oil leavel when i opened the oil filler screw air pressure released i have never seen that before i cked the carnk case beather hose to see if kinked did not see any and now my valve cover gaskit is leaking so bad i sill can not ride it the dealer just adj the valves so gong back to them to fix leak and put on a stator gaskit it is sill leaking also is that normal bumble bee 1999 rsv
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Well... No matter what, it never ends! I just finished getting a pair of Like New OEM mufflers from Hulk They are just like new & I had them installed in less than 30 minutes. My bike is sooooo quiet now. While I was laying on my back tightening the bolts I saw my Avon Venom rear tire. Not only was it terribly cracking on the side walls... it had a bald spot down to the belts with just 11,000 miles. Argh! So now I have to: change rear tire - going back to the Darkside with a Nanking change the rear drive oil change the motor oil clean up everything on the bike ...just so I can go on a short 1500 mile ride in 2 weeks. ...and of course, I'll enjoy every minute of the work - JUST LIKE ALL OF US DO
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Has anyone ever replaced the oil in the rear shock? Is it possible? I hope to improve the ride for the remainder of the year. My shock is getting tired and seems to be leaking air. Did the entire lead test and found no bubbles anywhere.
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does anyone have a spin on oil filter adapter for a 86 that you would like to sell? or can someone get the measurements from one so i could make one. thanks,bill -
...got around to installing skydoc's clutch upgrade today. What a day I picked...it's 6:45 p.m. and the temp is still 93 F. I just had supper then went out to finish what has to be the most difficult, complex and frustrating part of this job ... getting the old gasket off the case. Naturally, it wouldn't stick to the cover, so out came the utility knife blade and away I went scraping! I needed a break to cool down (It's more than 93 in my garage - oh to be rich and have an air conditioned garage!) so I just stopped for a few minutes. I heard that the Yamaha gasket has a built-in sealant but this is ridiculous! I even had to trim the silicone-like sealant off the edge in a couple of spots! Oh well, it should take no more than 15 or 20 minutes to finish the job now that the gasket is gone. The urge to use that nice, easy to remove Loctite from-a-gasket was strong (a lot easier to remove), but heck, I've got the new gasket now anyway. The nice article with pictures in the tech library made the job go very smoothly, although finding that little wire holding the last disc was a bit tricky. I'm looking forward to trying out the bike. Interesting note here: I knew that the discs should be covered in oil before installation, so I checked out the recommendations from several sources. Here"s what I got - 1) no need for any oil as they'll get covered when the bike is started (Hopefully they won't overheat and burn out first!); 2) Coat with oil before installing; 3) Soak for 10 to 15 minutes before installing; 4) Soak for 2 hours before installing, and finally 5) Soak overnight before installing. Personally, I was taking no chances and had the plates soaking in oil since yesterday. Andy
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i get the bike running great again now after the test ride i am leaking oil real bad under nith running down the kickstand and spraying oil all over lt side of bike onto the wheel all i did was chang the carbs the oil leavel is only half way in the sight glass so not over full any ideas as to what might me leaking frustated bumbkle bee 1999 rsv
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I just purchased a 1999 venture. The first ride was short but the bike performed ok. I changed out the oil and put in synthetic. I also changed out the rear gear oil. So I decided to go for a ride, expecting it to run better. It was realy rough and got worse with throttle applied. Any suggestions
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I got a leak from the oil plug. I don't know if it is the plug or the oil pan threads that are stripped but I would assume that it is the oil pan threads. What do I have to do to fix this? I have a 8 hr trip to Sioux City planned for Friday. Iowa Guy
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After replacing the stator and sealing the cover, are you supposed to refill it with oil or will it draw oil from the rest of the system? thanks Markus(calgaryrider)
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First a little history: I've had my 84 Venture Std for about 1 yr, but before that she sat idle for quite some time. I know she has some rust in the tank, but I'm not yet ready to pull & treat the inside (I'm relying on the filter for now). Over the past year, I've disassembled/cleaned the petcock and replaced the fuel filter (which was suprisingly clean). I've also had the carbs off and cleaned the bowls, jets, etc. She'd been running just fine until... Now on with the current situation: My buddy & I recently went on a 1400 mile trip to Michigan's UP:biker:, and I put a bit of Seafoam in the tank at each fillup (per some recommendations here). On the way back I began to notice that the bike had more oil than when I last checked . I babied it, got home, drained the oil and it smelled like gas. It appears that 2 of the carb float levels are too high, 1 carb on each side. The filter still looks good, so I'm theorizing that some "gunk" has been loosened up from inside the fuel pump and migrated to the float needles/seats. Perhaps after shutdown, the excess fuel is draining thru the carbs and down into the oil. Has anyone disassembled their 1st Gen fuel pump, cleaned it, and managed to get it back together ? Anyone ever added another fuel filter, between the pump and the carbs? Any ideas on cleaning the mesh screen filters at the needle/seat assembly? Honestly, I'm thinking about just changing the oil, adding a whole can of Seafoam to the next tank of gas and seeing if that breaks up the debris that might be stuck in the needle/seat/screens. Any thoughts? Thanks all! BTW, M-22 west of Traverse City & M-58 west of M-77 are great roads! But stay on the roads...the sabertooth black flies of the shore & beaches along Lake Superior are really something else . -
Stopped by a Yamaha Dealer in my travels today to pick up some Rear Diff (Shaft Drive Gear Oil). I have been putting Yamalube SAE 80W90 part # ACC-11000-65-05 in it every year when I change it per dealers instructions. They didn't have ACC-11000-65-05 and gave me ACC-Shaft-LU-00 (80W90) instead saying it was the same. Has anyone else run into this? I want to put the Yamalube in until warranty is over. I was going to phone another dealer tomorrow and get another opinion and be sure. I was just wondering if anyone else had any experience on this they would like to share. Thanks JR
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I have the rear wheel and final drive off should it leak oil while off the bike or should it br sealed up?
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Has anyone looked into replacing the oil pressure relief spring with one that would hold the oil pressure at a bit higher level than what is currently used or is this a bad idea all the way around for these bikes (RSV). I know when I was building Buick V6 engines a long time back I would increase the pressure by swapping out the relief spring for one slightly stronger which would run the idle pressure up a few pounds. This running at 8 - 10 psi is crazy only because by the time you see it's off the gauge it's way too late. I was thinking of somewhere around 20 - 25 psi would be nice and a top cruse pressure of around 40 psi hot.
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Your supposed to check the oil level with the bike standing up on a level surface, correct? IE not sitting on the kick stand? My bad but I'm checking the oil for the first time since buying the bike last week from the sealership. Either the stealership or the PO WAY overfilled the oil. I can't see the top oil level unless she's sitting on her kick stand!
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I need help. The oil pipe delivery broke and is putting out some kinda oil. I tried cutting it and using a piece of hose but to not much avail. If you got one laying around please PM me.
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Hey folks, I need your expertise. Today my wife and I took a quick ride to grab a bite, and basically clear the cobwebs before we start another weeks work. As I was pulling out of the neighborhood, going through the gears getting up to speed, in 4th gear the bike revved a little and it sounded like clutch slippage. It was so quick and faint that I wasn't sure that I had actually experienced it. then we stopped at a red light. As we pulled away from the light, in 3rd or 4th, I can't remember which gear, it did it again. This time I felt for sure that it was clutch slippage. A mile or so after that, we hit an entrance ramp and got on the freeway. After I clicked it into 5th, and was throttling up to 70 mph, it revved again. From that point on it never did again. While we were eating, I remembered that a couple weeks ago when I rode it last, it had done the same thing once as I was pulling out of our neighborhood, but then didn't do it again the rest of the day. I thought then that I had imagined it, but not today. I know what I experienced today. So, my question is, 3 weeks ago I changed the oil, and for the first time I used synthetic oil, could the synthetic oil be causing slippage? The bike is a 2007 RSTD with 24k miles and has been perfect up until now. Please advise. -
My owners manual says to use SAE80 GL-4 Hypoid gear oil. It says I can also use GL5 or GL6. I happen to have an unopened bottle of Pennzoil Gearplus SAE 80W-140 GL-5. Can I use this? Thanks.
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I've noticed oil on the tip of my kickstand. Anyone else had this? I just figure it is from some breather tube that comes out there. Anything I should be concerned with?
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I remember reading a long time ago on a forum that a good way to keep the brake and clutch fluid fresh is to use a turkey baster and suck out the fluid in the reservoirs every time you change oil. Just be certain you don't pull on the levers. Did I dream that or would that work on our Royal Stars? Just wondering......
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First of all, don't judge. I traded in my RSTD a couple of months ago for a 2012 Ultra Classic. It's a beautiful bike and a blast to ride. Nothing against my RSTD because I loved that bike to, I was just looking for something different. Anyway, I'm sticking around this site because of the knowledgable folks and because everyone is so nice. I know there are a handful of folds that have Harley around here and I was hoping to get some advice. Oil is a huge topic regardless of the type of bike you ride and it seems everyone has an opinion. I've pretty much decided to stick with regular mineral oil, not synthetic. This decision was based on the fact that I've ran regrular oil in every machine I've ever owned and never once have I had an oil related issue. I'm a 2500 to 3000 oil change guy so I just fail to see what the benefit is of paying the extra money for synthetic. That being said, what are you Harley riders' recommendations for regular old mineral oil in the engine, primary and transmission? Thanks guys. Les
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I've been told that adding more fork oil will stiffen the ride and removing oil will soften the ride. So what does adding or reducing front fork air do to the ride?
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Its funny. I go around to Napa, Autozone, and O'Rieley AutoParts... and no one has the K&N HP1005... 1004 and 1006, but NOT 1005, SPECIAL ORDER. Lovely, none the less Amazon has come thru, for 11.92, its coming this Saturday (Prime shipping) so this Saturday, I'll be doing a oil change, oil filter swap, spark plug swap, and maybe if I man up. A check of my diaphragms; I'll go with just... doing the on bike carb cleaner trick. Its mostly a lot of hope, the sliders, and diaphragms, I can't do anything with if they're busted, and I'm guessing the sliders are fine--the bike starts, and go its whole tank just fine--but the sliders are injured... and noticable scaring was evident on them when we had the carbs off for checkage during the whole three month snafu, and actually don't slide as GRACEFULLY as they should... so new sliders, new diaphragms hopefully next month, or the month after. Though I will point out, the diaphragms were actually FINE then. So hmmm. Though anyone got any info if I could use OTHER slides than the ones that come with the diaphragms on Ebay (VMAX slides)? some sliders are shiny metal........ So thats the plan..... now all I need to do is fine a nice size rubbermaid bowl for top ramen with sliced sausage this saturday while I work. but none the less... WHY IS THE K&N HP1005 A SPECIAL ORDER?!?!?!?!?! Oooh, should I stick with the NGK spark plugs, the DPR8EA-9 NGK is what I got in my memopad for spark plugs (and X24EPR-U9?) Oil if anyone asks, was thinking of 15w40, 50/50 blend from our local motorcycle dealer. --And if anyone wonders, K&N HP1005 is the screw on oil filter that fits on the Rivco Screw on Oil Filter Adapter. Took me a hour to find that... I think I use a jump from a NAPA number... or was it FRAM?
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