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Showing results for tags 'master'.
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Like others, my rear brakes are toast after less than 1.5K miles. Hannigan was real good about this and express shipped me new rotors and pads overnight free of charge, but I'm still not overall happy with the Brembo pads, they are too coarse and chew the rotors up. Soooo, what I found out is they are pads for the rear of a Ducati. I believe KTM's use the same. Herre are a few cross references for you. EBC FA266 and FA266HH, and Dunlop DP601. I'm sure there are more but that's a little more groundwork. The reason for the puny Brembo calipers lies in the rear master cylinder. It is only a 1/2" bore and can not deliver enough volume of fluid to the stock Honda calipers. So, one of my many winter projectrs will be to try to morph a 3/4" master on to the RSV, and I hate to say this, but it will most likely be from a Harley unless I can find something from a metric bike...
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OK, I'm tired of boogering up the heads of the master cylinder screws every time I need to add brake fluid to my bike. Does anybody know where I can order that size screw in hardened stainless or an allen head???
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Do we need to make an appiontment for Maintenance Day.. I need a rear tire change and and an overall look over from your Master Mechanics Group Such as Yourself Where can I purchase these beads for the rear tire?
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I can not seem to master embedding a video from youtube or photobucket. Can someone please tell me what I am doing wrong?
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Looks like Monday is the day Teri finally finishes up her Masters Degree in Psychology. She has been working hard on this along with every thing else she does and has come out with all A's to boot. She has been scouting a Doctorate and I hope like hell she takes a year off...we got bikes to ride! Places to see! Good folks to meet! We will be celebrating her accomplishments along with our Memorial Day "Spud Run" and hope at least a few of you will be able to show. She intends to put out a head count thread in the next day or so. I just wanted to shout to the world that my Best Friend has made a super accomplishment so don't be shy to tell her what a good Master she is and will continue to be. Thanks, Erv
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Okay here's the story: Most of you know that AL installed a Spiegler thumb brake on the Quike for me [moved back brake] He recently removed back wheel, replaced tire with car tire, greased all the splines etc. and replaced the rear brake pads.................now we don't have the thumb brake working again! He can get all the air out of the SS braided line, but still not enough resistance on thumb brake. It will bleed properly with original bike master cylinder, but not with thumb brake M/C. I have emailed Squeeze to see if he can ask Spiegler how to do their master cylinder, and for now Quickstep has linked the brakes.....so my question :think: What is your opinion on dual linked brakes on the Gen 2:confused24:
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Dingy, still brake trouble?
bkuhr posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Had Ford Ranger front flexable brake line rubber had deteriorated and swelled. Allowed pressure from master to caliper, but caliper would not fully release pressure back toward master keeping brakes partially applied. Looked at brake line. It had swelled completely closed. Looked like big O-ring with very small center hole. Got me thinking. If your O-ring between Reservior and master was plugged due to? (pinch, swell, dirt, master pistons doesn,t fully retract...) would cause simular problem. You can force fliud thru restriction with Mity-vac, but it will not gravity feed into master chamber. If you can confirm problem is with master, I suspect 1 of 3 things 1. trapped air 2. restriction as above 3. fluid blowby around master piston Just my thoughts Brian -
Hi, I have had the front brake lever / master cyl assembly off my red bike to fit a new sight glass. The brake worked fine before this, so I know all is well except that I have let a bit of air in up top. After re assembly, I have air in the system and soft lever action but I know its all up top at the reservoir end. Whats the simplest way to re prime the master cylinder in this case? (Sorry for what might be a well addressed question, but I am under the gun a bit as my temporary permit for this bike expires after tomorrow and I have to get it to the inspection station before then or legally it becomes a paper weight. They seem to think front brakes are important.) Thanks, Brian H.
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One of my projects this winter was to do a complete rebuild of the brakes - new rotors, rebuilt master cylinders, ss lines, rebuilt calipers (thanks Skydoc!). I know the brake bleeding is a pain but I have managed to get the rear/front left air-free after at least a dozen bleeds! I now have good pedal pressure. The easy one, the front rt however, is driving me crazy - no matter what I do, I cannot get any lever pressure. I rebuilt the master cylinder and even disassembled it twice to make sure I installed the rubber cups with the large diameter going into the bore first. After many brake bleeds, there are no more bubbles but still the lever has zero resistance. I must be missing some thing obvious - any hints out there? Thanks!
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master cylinder..anyone got one?
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
doesn't need to be rebuilt, i just bought the kit. The one i had needed the screws drilled out, as the heads were broken off. I snapped a drill bit off in the hole it's leaking with only one screw, so i was hoping someone might have one for cheap they would be willing to part with? last thing i need to get on the road Edit: Rocket called me and reminded me that it might be useful for you guys to know WHICH one i need! i need the brake master for the front, for a MK 2 (Electric AntidiveThanks Rocket! (i'm sorry, i don't know your first name I feel bad since you know mine!) -
Thanks to everyone for the help. All the problems I was having before are fixed for the time being and the bike is starting easily and running good. So here I go with the next problem. I have no pressure on the foot brake. I plan on bleeding the brakes tomorrow sometime to try to fix it. So if I have researched correctly, I need to bleed the rear brake caliper first, and then the left front caliper, correct? Then the right front. The only other thing I need some info about is the master cylinder lid on the front brake master cylinder. There are 2 phillips head screws holding the lid on. One of the screws is completely stripped and I can't get it out. What do you all think is the best way to get this thing out? Thanks everyone! -
New tires are on the way for both bikes, Dingy's tool is on the way, my replacement rear master brake cylinder and resv. are on the way, now while I have the rear wheel off getting the new tire mounted I will replace the rear brake system, hoping that cures whats ailing the linked braking system. I will also take the time to check and adjust the fork nut, I dont think it needs it but will check it anyway, if all goes well the 1st Gen will be back to the way it was with the exception of 2nd gear, which will have to wait for the Muffin to get back and get all rested up and hopefully come down with Mini and visit and help me with that, if not I will just have to live with it for the time being. Now if I can get Todd over here with master mechanic Bubba we might get the CB figured out........... The V Star will be taking a back seat for a while, and I can do some things to it that I have been putting off.
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Take that anyway you want to here's the question -I already pestered Earl with this but I did not explain myself properly, and the man should have to do everything! I pumped fluid from the rear bleeder to the master cylinder without a problem. I am trying to do the same in front, push fluid from the bleeder on the caliper through the line to the reservoir. Problem is that I seem to be blowing most of it out from between the tube and the bleeder as thought there is a block. I took the bleed screw out and it is clear. No fluid seems to be reaching the reservoir. What would cause this. *It's a new master cylinder!!
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OK, I've got a problem with the clutch on my 86! I rebuilt the master cylinder and when I got it disassembled, I found that the kit that I got was the wrong one. I took that back to the shop I got it from (independent guy that I use) along with the old parts. He found what appeared to be right (Yami # 2KW-W0099-00) and swapped with me. I came home and put it back together. Now it won't build any pressure. I have tried: 1) Putting fluid in from bleeder with a syringe. At first I got a few little bubbles in the master, now it won't take it at all thru' the bleeder even with lots of pressure. 2) Cleaned and cleared the bleeder, then Teflon taped it. It didn't drip much with the bleeder out either. 3) Bleeding the old fashioned way, with LOTS of pumping. It will push a little thru but not much, and I have gone thru at least 5 reservoirs full. 4) Using a mighty vac to suck it thru the bleeder. 5) Disassembled and reassembled master to make sure all parts are in the right order. 6) Tied the clutch lever back overnight to allow air to come up. 7) Left clutch lever alone overnight to allow air to come up. 8) Pulled out some of what little hair I have left! :confused07: I've thought of getting all the fluid out that I can and then blowing air through it from both ends. That does sound messy though! Any ideas out there? (Relating to my clutch issue that is!) Does anyone recognize that part number? I'm wondering if the size is off just a fraction. It was snug going into the cylinder. Tuesday I'm gonna call my dealer and check their number. This problem is so bad that I had to borrow and ride a V-Rod to Hootor's Bike Night on Thursday night! -
I am looking for a clutch master cyclinder cover so that I can mount my tachometer to the top of the clutch. My brake side has a switch box already it so it has to go on the clutch side. ANYBODY got one and how much? And I need a picture so I can figure out a mount. Give a shout if you got one. Thanks much from the popcicle of the north, Minnesota.:yikes: Bubber
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Master Formula Metal Gloss - Polish Master Formula Sealer Gloss - Protective sealer I bought these at the Greenville show a few weeks back. Has anyone used these and what feedback do you have. I do not want to put something on my bike that will cause problems later. Thanks in advance for the feedback. Their website is www.masterformulapolish.com
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Ok guys, I recently got an 87 Venture Royale (merry christmas me!) from my wife. (what a keeper!) i've refreshed old bikes before, but not a full dresser like this one. I have a list in mind of things to check/clean/replace but i would like your input as well, since, well, obviously you guys are alot more familar with these old gals than me! so far on the list: new cables all around New fluids all around New Brake Pads Rebuild/Replace all the seals in the brake calipers Master and Slave rebuilds for the brakes Rebuild for the clutch master New Tires Inspect, dielectric grease and general cleaning of all electronics, and fuse box Tank inspection Petcock inspection Air filter clean/replace Carb clean/rebuild Carb Sync anything specific to these girls i should know about besides this? Thanks in Advance! - Jared
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There is an 84 Mk1 Std near my house, has the 2nd gear problem but is really clean ~27K mi and CHEAP. Haven't driven it yet but owner says it runs well, he had it sold but the buyer balked on the test drive when it "had a shifting problem". He said "make me an offer, I want it out of my way" Thinking of buying as a parts store for my 88 but my research says a lot of parts wont fit (but a lot will). Can the Gen 1 experts here confirm or correct my list. Thanks Parts that WILL fit ???? Carbs Clutch basket Starter Stator Regulator/rectifier TCI Fairing plastic header pipes & Collector Misc Electronics components Gas tank Fuel Pump Radiator & Fan Instrument cluster Clutch master & slave Brake master (F&R) Engine (If I fixed 2nd gear) Wheels (minus rotors) Parts that WONT fit ???? Bags Trunk crash bars pumpkin drive shaft u joint rotors brake calipers fork -
Hi everyone. Last spring I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and bought all the clutch lever wear parts. It continues to go flat. However, when the bike warms up it would pump more and almost feel normal. It actually went completely flat 2500 miles from home and Sturgis BMW/Yamaha disassembled, cleaned and bled the crap out of it. It was good for the next 5000 or so. Now it's almost totally flat again. it's not leaking anywhere. I'm going to replace everything. New master,slave, lines etc. I know the slaves are cheap but is there an inexpensive alternate master? I don't care what kind of bike it's off of or if the lever matches. I just want this dam thing to work. I'd hook up a cable if I could. What are my options? Thanks in advance. Great forum!
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I have eliminated the clutch assembly of my 86 VR as being the culprit for the bad, noisy, clunking shifting. I have also eliminated the problem being the slave since that part is newly installed. I also rebuilt the master but I think I should replace the master just to see if the shifting improves. Therefore, I am asking if anyone has a serviceable clutch master cylinder that you are willing to part with. If so, please let me know your price and I'll send anyway you desire; cash, PayPal, check, money order. All the m/c's on Ebay didn't look good except one and that fella is really proud of it. -
If I'm losing clutch fluid and there are no external leaks evident:think:, am I to assume that the fluid is goin into the crankcase? The clutch works fine and does not bleed down even while holding it disengaged at long stoplights. I've had to refill the master cylinder once in the last three months and it needs some fluid now. It did not start "using" fluid before I changed it the last part of May. -
The past weekend I wanted to replace the clutch slave cylinder and rebuild the clutch master cylinder. Even though I thought replacing the slave would be the most difficult, that went pretty smoothly and only took about 1 hour. I may have been lucky. So then I started with the master cylinder. HOW DO YOU REMOVE THAT DOGGONE LOCK RING? I then cut grass for the rest of the day. Thanks
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I asked in another thread but I think it got buried... I am replacing my clutch and front brake lines with braided stainless (2002 RSMV) and, of course, flushing the systems thoroughly with clean brake fluid. I'm flushing the rear brake but not planning to replace the lines. As far as I know, these are the original lines and I have no idea whether the previous owner ever did any service on the systems. I don't have any obvious issues but its definitely time for some preventative maintenance. Anyway, Yamaha says to replace the oil seals in the master cylinder (every 2 years, I think). Does anyone do this if they don't have a problem? Is it easy? What about any seals in the slave cylinders? Anything else I should know before I dive in? Thanks Ross
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The one on the bars not the slave cylinder. I had a extra in my parts and took it out to put on my 85. It only had 2 wires in the wiring harness. When I started to pull the one from the 85 it had 4 wires. So back to plan one. I replaced the plunger and bushing but it still does not return out all the way when you release it after pulling into bar. I did bleed it out. Do I need to take the plunger out and clean in there or what? The master itself is working good just not returning as far as it should. It lacks quite a bit coming out as far as it should. A inchor little better. After you release it you can pull it out that much further.
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Are the Front Brake levers from the 86-90 Ventures different from the 83-85 Front Brake Levers? The lever on my '83 Venture is bent at a weird angle that makes it awkward to grab & pull without messing with throttle control, & I don't think it's safe. It looks like I'm maybe going to have to buy a used master cylinder on ebay in order to get a good brake lever, and I saw a master cylinder off of an 86-90 Venture - thought maybe the brake lever is probably the same - does anyone know for sure? Also, my brake lights don't light up with the front brake - only with the foot brake lever, so I suspect the switch on the master cylinder is bad. Maybe its not so bad to have to buy the master cylinder if it has a good switch in it as well. If anyone has a good 83-85 front brake lever and/or master brake cylinder they would sell me, please PM or email me. There is one used '83 front brake master cylinder on ebay that they want $50 for with a "buy it now" + $12 shipping, and it looks like it's 36 years old and has seen better days - seems kind of pricey, doesn't it? I would think it would have to look very pretty & function perfectly to pay that much for one. Thanks for any info. Doug
