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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
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When I bought my bike a few years ago It had the Corbin seat on it. Still does but it is wicked hard. I was gonna have it refoamed and Buddyrich sent me a temp seat he selling but never got around to sending mine out as Corbin and the dealer that was helping me never got together as to if they could help me. Part of this was because the dealer tried to screw me on my Clutch basket but telling me I need a brand new clutch that had been changed a month before. So the seat never got done and my butt still hurts. I have decided to try again. My plans to maybe persue a 09 Ultra are on hold for right now for how long I dont know but I decided to see on my own in Corbin can help me. I have been told that in these cases they will refoam a seat with a softer foam (Less Dense) so that the seat is more comfortable. I decided to ask if they would consider doing this under warranty as it has always been like sitting on a brick. The shape is great but hard as hell!!! I will keep you posted as the "Case of the Monkey Butt Seat" continues!
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I am wondering what the billet clutch and alternator cover looks like installed?I seems you would be putting chrome on chrome.I would appreciate any feedback or pics.I have a 2006 RSTD.
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I know that Pegscraper has a thread going about his 96, but not sure if that is all relative to my 2007. I have noticed that my clutch is slipping some lately, though it is only when the bike cold. Once she is warmed up and ridden for 5-10 minutes all is good. Then today it 'clunked' going into to 1st gear when I first took off (I had let it run for about 2 minutes before leaving). I didn't think a lot about until it 'clunked' going into 1st again tonight when I left work. Any thoughts on what is wrong and how to fix it? Should I change the fluid? DO I need new springs or what? BTW I have a little over 29k miles on it now. -
hi all kbay as me a question about if you could use a vmax clutch basket in our rsv's? we have never heared of the "whine" issue in the vmax. anyone have ideas? best reguards don c.
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Anybody else ever have a problem with their tach making noise? At first I thought my speedo needed to be greased again. I greased the speedo and the noise was still there. It would come and go but not stay gone. Then I noticed that when I engaged the clutch when going down the road the noise stopped. I hit the throttle and it came back. Then I had a "DUH!" moment and realized it was the tach making the annoying noise.
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Well I broke it!!! I changed out friction plates on the clutch on the '87 Venture and lined up the double notches on the clutch boss and put every thing back together the way it came off and after riding it everything was smooth untill it came time to find neutral and it jumped to 2nd. I kept trying to find neutrol untill the housing that holds the shift shaft broke. I have two questions. What would cause the scoot to have a hard to find neutrol after the clutch change and where can I find a new/used housing. I have brought the scoot with me (back of truck) along with the family to SW Florida to do some riding this week and am bummed. Any ideas? Please help with some feedback.Thanks a bunch you guys!!!! -
Just replaced clutch disks and clutch lever is tight and will not squeeze. I may have squeezed it while the disks where off and no pressure plate or retainer screws where in place. What do I do? What would have this thing hemmed up to where clutch will no work? I am stumped!!! Would someone please spread some great clutch knowledge my way? You guys are great!!Thanks!!!!!!
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During my recent treck to the Southeast, I was noticing my clutch slipping is high gears. I was pulling a trailer and riding some good twisties, so the clutch was getting a work out. Decided to change out the clutch friction plates and spring. Just tore it apart and inspected everything. The friction plates are all in spec (0.114 to 0.118 inch), but several of the middle steels were blued (apparently by heat). The steels are all still flat and appear to be in good shape, although mis-colored. Couple of questions: 1) Any difficulty in reusing the blued steels? 2) Will the selection of oil used cause/contribute to this difficulty? I have been running Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic (it does not have the 'Energy Conserving' label). Thanks for your help. RR
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Going to install brake, clutch and throttle stainless steel lines and would like to know of anything I might run into thats going to give me problems, spent 2 hours reading post about bleeding the clutch and brakes, read so many different ways and problems got me wondering how bad it's going to be (and confused). Any guidance and what tools I will need would be greatly appreciated -
Clutch question? Slipping or catching? Vibration?
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I have a 2000 RSV and have noticed that when doing my low speed maneuvers I can slip the clutch to a certain point then it suddenly grabs. Is this a spring issue or time to replace clutch plates? It seems to grab more when it is hot vs. when it is colder. I have also noticed when I am at50-60 mph and trying to accelerate I get a lot of what feels like chatter. Maybe it is just a lack of torque, but in order to get any acceleration I have to shift down. The chatter or vibration is so bad it shakes the entire bike. I am thinking about doing a Barnett clutch and springs just to "fix" something, but thought I would check with the experts first. The bike has 30k on it and the previous owner did have a trailer hitch installed on it. Not sure how much abuse it got, but until I got it the bottoms of the floorboards were virgin. I am guessing I work the clutch more doing tight maneuvers than the previous owner would have done pulling a trailer. -
how do you tell a-h- basket from a -I - basket????
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Guys, I know there is a lot of info on the site about the infamous "chirp" and the clutch basket changeout. What I wanted to do with this post is get some statistics to determine a percentage of success before I proceed to hassle the local dealer to change mine. Reason is, I can live with it the way it is and if all the I-basket will do for me (based on the odds) is to move the chirp/whine to a different RPM range, I won't bother. So, using the above poll, I hope to arrive at some sort of decision. If you choose Other, would you kindly elaborate. Thanks for your input.
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two days ago, rode the '86 VR and it ran great. Got on today and the clutch lever is super stiff. Slow to pull in and slow to come out, doesn't take forever to come out, maybe a full second, but doesn't snap out like it did last ride. System was worked on and fluid flushed last fall by Yamaha dealer, has been perfect all summer. What happened in the space of less than 48 hours sitting?
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:bowdown:Hey - Stupid question here...I just changed brake fluid, front and rear, and I would like to change my clutch fluid, but I can't seem to find the bleeder screw. Can anyone help me out here, and post a picture, or email a picture to thelonegray@yahoo.com? Much appreciated. Thanks!
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I am about to replace the clutch on my 83VR. Wondering if I could get some input on what type or brand I should be looking at.
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I was wondering if someone has any experience with a "racing engine" problem on a first gen Venture. Mine will start running at a higher RPM (about 1500) after a short time in city traffic. It doesn't seem to be stuck cables. The throttle retracts all the way and I can bring it under control at a stop by holding the brake and feathering the clutch in first gear - 1 or 2 times brings it back down to normal. The real problem is any longer diving at highway speeds. After an hour at highway speed the engine will run at 3k when I stop. The clutch method above works but as soon as I let it go, the engine starts climbing to about 3k. It doesn't jump up to 3k but I sure wouldn't call it a creep either. Anyone have any ideas? MikeC
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OK,with all the chrome I have on my bike I noticed I did not have Chrome Brake and clutch levers..My Question,where can I get the ABSOLUTE best looking and best chrome and where can I get them?Thanks,Tom
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I have a '98 Royal Star 1300, 20k miles, lightly driven, no synthetic oil ever used, clutch slips intermittently, replaced clutch spring and fibers, steeles were mint, still slipped, started looking at clutch master cylinder, I flushed and bled the clutch fluid. I ran it hard with no slipping for 15 minutes then it started slipping again, any ideas? I'm stumped guys. Thanks for any input!
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'98 1300 Slipping Clutch - Can't Figure It Out!!!
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I have a '98 Royal Star 1300, 20k miles, lightly driven, no synthetic oil ever used, clutch slips intermittently, replaced clutch spring and fibers, steeles were mint, still slipped, started looking at clutch master cylinder, I flushed and bled the clutch fluid. I ran it hard with no slipping for 15 minutes then it started slipping again, any ideas? I'm stumped guys. Thanks for any input! -
Just put on a set of Baron 4-2-4 Nasty Boy pipes. What clutch whine?! I can't hear a thing. :dancefool:Seriously, I love these pipes no matter what the neighbors say.:nanner:Thanks Sling.
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Just changed my oil in my 87 Venture and got it down the road and started to have clutch slippage. I have reserched the site and have seen that you are not to use auto grade oil ( I used Castrol 10w-40 auto). Can I simply drain this oil out and replce it with Rotella Diesel oil or are the friction plates ruined and need replacing? Please let me know. Thanks!!!
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It's becoming evident to me that my clutch is needing some repair. It has lasted 53,000 miles, and now it will slip if I get into the gas even moderately hard. Is all that's happened here for the clutch to slip that the spring has gotten weak? For a stock rebuild, assuming the steel plates and friction discs are still usable, is it basically just replacing the spring with a new one? I've never been into a motorcycle clutch, or a clutch on any other vehicle either. So referring to TT's clutch article, I have a few questions. The upgrade consists of what parts, exactly, the heavier PCW spring and a full size plate in the back? Is the Barnett pressure plate a part of the upgrade, or is it a same as stock replacement? How do I know if the pressure plate needs replacing?
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I burned my clutch this weekend. I was riding on a highway and we were close to Terre Haute IN. We were actually heading into Terre Haute for breakfast. So I was slowing down for the exit ramp. Went to downshift and nothing. Looked down and I lost my shifter bolt. Approached the stop light and came to a complete stop in 5th gear. Light turned green. Revved the motor to get the bike going. I figured if I could get it going, then the the motor will eventually catch up from the increased speed. Well it never did. I got it going, but I actually got slower and slower to where it didn't move at all. Went through all the gears and nothing (someone moved the shifter by hand). Dumb mistake I know (at least now I know. So no, I didn't think this would happen by revving the motor like that. This is the 2nd bike I have ever owned). One of 2 things happened. I am not a mechanic so my terminology might not be correct. One of the guys I was with thought when I lost the shifter bolt and the shifter came off its' pivot point (or whatever you call it), it lowered a gear (not sure if the term is correct) just enough to start tearing up the clutch fibers and when I was at the stop light revving up the bike, getting the oil hot enough to burn out the clutch (in essence finishing what was already started). The other thought was that I started and finished it when I was at the stop light and when I got the bike going. We were at the side of the road. A guy stopped and happened to be a Harley mechanic at a Yamaha/Suzuki shop which was close by. We pushed it over there and got into the service dept. They pulled the plug and sure enough there were fibers on the plug. So the other non-harley mechanics checked to see if they had the parts in stock, which they didn't. They said they don't get Ventures in the shop for burned out clutches. Called 5 or 6 places around Indianapolis. One place in Peru In (check out mapquest from Terre Haute to Peru - quite a haul) had it but no gasket. The dealer I was at said they can order an EBC kit, but thought they were junk and didn't elaborate why (why tell me you could order the kit but not recommend it. I didn't ask what parts do you recommend, they just started the conversation this way. Why not just say we can order the stock clutch kit). They recommended stock. Stock was the best to them. The Harley mechanic looked to be working more on dirt bikes than anything, but he said he works on Harleys. Talked to parts guy. He didn't rank stock, but said if it was him, he would buy EBC, but not Barnett (and didn't elaborate why). Ordered the EBC parts, left the dealer and got to our destination. We were at a gathering at a local dealer. I talked to other people. One guy just commented he didn't like aftermarket and always goes w/ stock. Other people had the same thoughts as me that EBC should last about as long as the bike. At best I figured I could go ahead have EBC put in to finish the riding season. Save over winter to put in stock (if stock is better) than EBC when riding season kicks in again. Then I would have a spare (EBC) set in case I need it. Even at that, if EBC clutch will last a very, very long time then I won't bother w/ putting in a stock set next year. Anyone w/ experience w/ EBC? I thought they were supposed to be very good quality.
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Anyone know what a failing clutch bearing sounds like. I'm getting a whirring type sound while riding that goes away when I pull the clutch in. ANy ideas
