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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
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Little Help for the newbie again It's that plug that goes into the side of the clutch handle on the handle bars -
I was wondering If anyone knows how to get the electronic cruise on a 86 venture to stop kicking off when ever I hit a bump? It seems like the clutch lever has a little play and if not held all the way out while riding it kicks it off???
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After changing the engine oil to Rotella 15w-40, I still had the clutch slip a few times in 5th gear on hard acceleration at 4-5k rpm during my 120 mile commute to work to today. I see a lot of posts referring to replacing the springs for only $10, but I checked both BikeBandit and Chapparal and they both listed them for $7.97/ea. Since there are 6 of them, that would be around $48 total plus shipping and I still have to locate a new clutch cover gasket too. Any ideas or suppliers? Will a proper sized washer placed behind each spring upon reassembly accomplish the same thing? I haven't taken it apart yet to see if they are out of spec, but I'd like to be prepared to do the job once and not leave my bike unusable for a week waiting for parts. -
The clutch on my 88 has got the high rpm slips. New clutch plates or a conversion are outside the realm of the current budget. Does anyone out there have a clutch spring from their 86 and up ( Royal Stars too if I understand it ) that they don't have a need for? Maybe you already did a Barnett conversion on your bike. I'd happily pay a few bucks for it. Thanks to whoever PM's me, or even just reads this.
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I dont know if this is in the correct place but I am having a problem with the clutch slipping on my 08 rsv. This problem only started after i changed the oil last week, went to the synthetic oil that the dealer recommended. I noticed it on the first ride after the change, it seems to only happen in 4th or 5th gear and is not real bad but it is bad enough that I can feel it. Are there any adjustments that can be made or does it need to just go back to the dealer for repairs? Thanks for any help. MURPH
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I am preparing to fix my slipping at high speed clutch.Can anyone tell me where to get the parts?(beside the stealer)
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Is there anyway to reduce the tension in the clutch lever making it easier to pull? I'm starting to get arthritis in the hand and it's making it more difficult. Can't give up those long trips.
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This was addressed in the 1st gen folder, but decided to put it here since it is happening with my 07. Tonight after I got home from work, I noticed a slight "rumble" noise when I pulled in the garage when I put it in neutral and let the clutch lever out. Did not sound like throwout bearings. Only hear it when in neutral without the clutch engaged. No slipping, shifts normally, but it is just loud enought that the wife even heard it. If I take it to the stealer, are they going to tell me to pay because clutch is a wear item and not covered? Bike is only 2 years old with 21,000 miles.
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I did a search for noise with transmission in neutral and found a couple of concepts about the noise source but just not sure what I'm looking at labor wise. Wondering what the most likely source of noise is. Working on a 1987 XVZ13DTC with 60000 miles. The bike is running great right now but I can hear a rumble that goes away in neutral with the clutch pulled in. When the clutch is let out in neutral the rumble comes back . It' not loud but it is there. Using a stethoscope I can hear the rumbling loudest near the oil fill plug. When the clutch is pulled in the noise is gone completely and everything is smooth. It sounds like a bearing rumble. Clutch works great no binding, grabbing slipping or other nonsense. Shifts great and clutch lever engages at the bottom almost as if the clutch is a newer one. (The bike is new to me) I am wondering what the most likely culprit is and how critical you guys think this might be and how soon it should be fixed. Biggest concern is that it is the ball bearing behind the clutch on the output of the transmission.(Part #8 in the transmission picture.) I saw the pictorial tech post here of a member who removed his engine to split the cases and replace the 30.00 bearing because the cage folded on the bearing behind the clutch basket and disintegrated leaving all the balls bunched up inside the two races. Or could it more likely be the clutch bearing itself? (#17 in the picture of the clutch assembly)
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Well i went and done it. I pulled the clutch cover and removed seven friction plates. It appears that the last plate and disc are held in by some sort of retaining ring does anyone know how to remove them. Also i thought i was paying closer attention but i noticed one friction plate has a single square mark instead of the two circular notches like the rest. If any one knows where its supossed to be located this would be helpful. Any help would be great as i only want to pull it once and do it right the first time.
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I've searched the forum and see many references to using the wrong engine oil (energy conserving type) which may cause clutch slipping. If this is the case, are you saying that just changing the oil (and filter) to the correct type will clear up the problem? Is the slip something you would notice at the higher rpms(5k+) in higher gears?
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Good morning all. I found an issue. When I let my 08' RSV set for a about a week than start it up and put in gear it want to take off and than dies. With clutch pulled I hit the starter and it will go about 6 inches and than engage. Any ideas. Thanks. Richard:confused24:
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Good morning all. I just found a cluch issue. When I let my bike set for about a week. I start it up and put in gear it wants to go and it will die. If I hit the starter with the clutch in it will go about three inches and than free up. Any ideas. Thank you. Richard:confused:
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I finally got my bolts for my clutch. I bought a new torque wrench. I took it for about a 30 mile ride today and I loved it. Real easy to put the new clutch in. I changed all my fluid in the brake and the clutch. Thanks to everyone for their advice. hairman:thumbsup:
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I received my clutch today and decided to go ahead and install it. I got it all took out and started putting it back together. I got it all back together and was putting the bolts back in the clutch plate. I was trying to torque them down with my old torque wrench and one of the bolts snapped. I finally managed to get it out after about an hour. My question is does the bolt have to be a certain kind or will any kind due? My torque wrench is the old kind that has the bar that comes up with a red end on it that moves down the gauge that tells you what your ft lbs. Do I need to invest in a newer one? Thanks hairman
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I ordered a new clutch today from pcw racing. I got the one with everything. It was 163.00 with shipping. I will probably have alot of questions so be prepared. I printed off Freebirds instructions. I have never been in a motorcycle clutch before. It will be a new experience (hopefully a good one). Should be here by this weekend. Stay tuned. Thanks hairman:thumbsup:
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I went to get my son from school again today on my 1999 RSV (58,000 miles). My clutch kept slipping really bad today. It done this on the way there and back. I bought this bike back in August of last year and it didn't start this until this year. I changed the oil in it last month before I did any riding. I used Mobil 1 racing 4T fully synthetic 10w-40. I bleed most of the black fluid out of the reserve and put fresh in it. It looked pretty clear in the clear hose I was using. Do I need to keep trying to bleed it or what? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks hairman
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Congrats KiteSquid. Thanks to all our veterans, you inspire us all. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/Ggerg1186/Venture/100_0809.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/Ggerg1186/Venture/100_0145.jpg
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I bleed my clutch today and I got all the old fluid out that I could by doing it this way. The bottom of the reserve looked like liquid lead in it. I took a rag and got all of that out that I could. The fluid looked like strong coffee or a pepsi. The clutch slipped a little bit today when I went to pick up my son from school, but it was better than yesterday. I am going to try to post a picture of what the fluid looked like. Is there a better way to change the fluid than the way I done it? If so let me know. Appreciate the help. Thanks hairman
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I went to pick my son up from school today on my 1999 rsv and the clutch was slipping when I would get the rpm's up high. It was slipping in about every gear. I parked it for about 15 minutes at the school. When I got back on it and started home it wouldn't slip for nothing. I tried everything to get it to slip, but it ran fine. Anyone know what my problem might be? Thanks hairman
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I have the PCW racing clutch upgrade. When I installed it, I left the last flat spacer in, getting in to big of a hurry. I found this out because the clutch lever would not engage. I went back in and removed the spacer. After reinstalling my clutch lever still will not engage. How bad have I messed up here, and has anybody had this experience so that I might get some suggestions. I appreciate this site and the imfo I get.
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I replaced my clutch on my 86 VR with the Barnett.My old clutch looks like new and probably has only 5000 miles on it.I would replace the spring but other than that the friction plates are like new and the pressure plate also.I think the reason it slipped at high speed was because the guy who installed it did not index the plates or put the spacers in facing the same direction.Make an offer and I can send it.Boxed up and ready to go !
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I am thinking of replacing the clutch, from all the documentation with the bike It has the clutch that came from the factory in it. If I change the clutch out, is there a better brand that will last longer? is there any upgrades that I should look at that will make it so I never have to replace the clutch again?
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At 31k miles, have developed the clutch slip. Please link me to the low cost PCW clutch kit provider. Thanks.
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I was just going through the maint. section and reading all the good info there. Your article on clutch slip was really good but you metioned how it was strange that the the clutch would slip in high gear and not in low gear. This is actually is not strange at all as the higher you go up the gear pattern the more load there is placed on the clutch. In transport trucks drivers will often complain that there clutch is slipping on hill climbs we verify this in the shop by placing the transmission in its highest gear then gently let the clutch out. This will either cause the clutch to slip or stall the engine. If we did this in low gear even a clutch that is starting to slip would tear out the driveline unless it was slipping really bad. One thing we really have to watch is as the engines come with higher horse power the force on the driveline increases. wouldn't want to explain that one to a customer. hope you dont tak take this the wrong way and as always keep up the great work.
