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Showing results for tags 'brakes'.
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I was sitting here thinking about the long hard winter and all the things I had planned to do to my bike to keep me busy. Well I made a list and posted it below. Got me to thinking what all you people were planning over this down time to keep yourselves busy without going totally nuts. Well here is my list....... where is yours? :banana: WINTER VENTURE PROJECT Speed bleeders (4) front brakes, rear brakes, and clutch [*]Change brake fluid in front and rear brakes [*]Reflectors add on to saddle bag guards [*]Knee wind deflectors (from BuddyRich) on lower leg fairings [*]LED lights to illuminate wording in license plate (RED) [*]LED light under tank (BLUE) [*]LED taillight from Strobes& More 21 pattern flashing LEDs (RED) [*]Chrome accent strip on top of saddle bag lid [*]Paint (black) clear wind deflectors on fairing [*]Dress up right and left hand air boxes [*]Oil rear shock with fork oil to stop squeaking [*]Add HD hooded visors to passing lights [*]Spark plugs [*]change oil and filter
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1:00 am in the morning I'm bringing MamaMo home from work cause it's snowing. We came upon a herd of deer in the road so I hit the brakes hard and nothing happened other then the pedal went clear to the floor. 2004 chevy silverado with 57,000 miles. Looks like I blew a line or something but I missed the steak so were Ok.2010 is starting out right like I always say Nothing $400 won't fix.
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I have an 85 Venture Royale I am having trouble with the rear brake. The calipers seem to be fine, but no matter how many times I pump the brake pedal I can get a hard pedal and the brakes to work. I have bleed the brakes thoroughly, but no stiff pedal or breaks. Don't see any leaks. Would this be the rear master cylinder? Thanks for any tips. -
Couple of ??? Have you raked your front forks? if so why? Do you have drum brakes? if so did you delink your front/back brake? if not, & you have drum brakes is the original rear master cylinder adequate in applying the rear brakes? :canada:Yes! I have aquired another 1st gen.........a trashed 84 with what I think is a salvagable custom built bolt up TRIKE kit. Once I tear into it & its a go the 90VR will be triked. :canada:
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I am trying to bleed the brakes and they are spongy. I understand the rear brake is linked with the front left. I have speed bleeders. If someone can give me specific instructions for bleeding the front hand brake and the integrated brakes I would sure appreciate it. I am not being successful. Thanks for the time.
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Noticed front brakes were getting real noisey? Pulled pads and seemed to have 50-60% pads left, but they seemed awfully glazed. Had some new EBC's on the bench so replaced them anyways? Bled system and took for a ride. Now I don't know if its my imagination or I screwed up, but brakes seem really Soft? Seems I have to pump them to get them to grab hard. Now they do stop the bike, but I feel they should grab much harder than they do? I'm gonna re-bled the system to ensure all air is out but I have a feeling in the back of my head that the pistons are sticking???? I've gone through three sets of pads on the rear, have 35k on the fronts and still 60% left? wondering if this hasn't been an issue for a bit? If I have to take apart the calipers, rebuild, is it a big deal? Searched for a post here, but???? Theres a procedure in the manual, but sometimes folks here have such better insite????? Is there a rebuild kit that needs to be ordered? Leaving for biketoberfest the 14th, so would like to have it done by then???????????? Any help? Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hi folks.. I'll soon be installing a new rear disc and pads on my 2006 RSV.. mine is so badly cut into, there is a pronounced lip at the outer edge of the disc that now cuts into the new pads I install. Fun huh Once I have the new disc and HH pads installed, brakes bled and pistons cleaned up, what's the proper way of 'breaking them in'? A fast speed slam the brake on, or a slow long progressive application of the brakes or frequent on off applications? I recall someone telling me about not doing it a certain way to prevent 'glazing' the disc right away, thus defeating the benefit of a new disc.. Any thoughts on this? Hopefully soon I'll be all braided steel lines and the new rear brakes.. Thanks in advance.
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Got the new battery in, added some fresh gas, these things dont run real well on a strong fix of Sea Foam, but once I got the gas in and had her fired up she ran just like she did before I took her apart. Still have a few small items to take care of, the main one being the rear brakes.........aint got none, I forgot to replace the brake fluid after I did the brakes......DUH. other than that she is road ready, I put about 10 miles on her, didnt want to take her to far from home just in case, besides I didnt have the new license sticker on it.......... So here are the final pics.
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Hello everyone. I JUST WANTED TO KNOW IF THE DIAMOND R LIGHTBAR IS ANY BETTER THAN THE SIGNALDYNAMICS LIGHTBAR.I KNW THAT THE S.D. BAR HAS THREE BULBS LIT UP FOR RUNNING LIGHTS AND THEN THE REST LIGHT UP WHEN YOU HIT THE BRAKES BUT WHAT ABOUT THE DIAMOND R. CAN THEY BE USED AS TURN SIGNALS AS WELL THANKS FOR ANY INFOON THE SUBJECT MARK:big-grin-emoticon:
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Im sure that some one else has had something closr... When I use the front brakes and I come to a full stop and squeze a little harder the brakes make a noise sounds a little like the chirping that I,ve been reading about... Is there any way to get rid of it ... It seems to get a little loud after awhile Ron:cool10:
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RE: help me out of this mess Post earlier- 87 Venture Royale with pulsating brakes and washer questions- Got my new brake pads today, and then I spent time aligning the caliper housing. I swear that aluminum bracket was cantered a few degrees off of perpendicular to the axle. I threaded a large carraige bolt through it and used "my little freind" (see pic). A few whacks clearly nudged it. I wonder how it got bent. Then i had to only shim the back bolt with one thin washer. Everything looks square, and the pads are even and the rotor is tracking very close to center front and back. I can't test drive it of course until my new throttle cables arrive, but the rotor is no longer hanging anywhere in the rotation of the wheel. [ATTACH]35449[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]35450[/ATTACH]
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Has anyone tried the braided stainless steel brake lines on the RSV? I've got 'em on my Duck and they are FANTASTIC!! REALLY made a significant difference in brake feel...will it do the same on the Venture? Seem's to me like the brakes are a little "soft", at least compared to my old Duck or the FJR I traded for the Venture. I really like "solid" brakes. Any ideas? THANKS!
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I am new to the RSTD and have had my 2005 for about a month and due to the crappy weather in New England have not put on as many miles as I had hoped before asking questions and commenting on the bike. I am grateful for the forums as coming from a V twin silverado I had forgotten how different the 4s are compared to the twins. I had a c550 v4 honda that loved the rpms but had gotten used to babing the vtwin. It was reading the forum that I found the information about keeping rpm's up and the bike is much smoother. thanks I am having trouble getting used to the front brakes being so grabby. I am planning to change them out as it appears the previous owner has two different brands of pads on the front. I hope that putting FA179 HH will at least give me some consistancy to get used to. I had no noise from the brakes for the first 1000 miles but cleaned the bike with S100 and the next day the sqeeling began. I will not understand the whys of this but saw some other post that mentioned the same thing. I cleaned the rotors with Brake Clean and the noise has diminished until the last few feet of the stop. Do others find the brakes very touchy in the final stages of the stop? I have started using the rear the last few feet and barely touching the fronts and it seems to help. The dealer or previous owner had installed a Met on the rear and Dunlop elite in the front. I am coming off Mich commanders and I seem to feel the tires working against each other in turns. Is this possible or just my imagination. The information is great and it is the best $12 I have spent on the bike. One final item. Are iridium plugs the way to go?? Thanks in advance:backinmyday: -
Anyone have experience in silencing the front break squeak. I have new pads. Should the rotor be turned like a car's?.
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NOTE TO SELF...When you install new brakes, DO NOT OVERFILL WITH BREAK FLUID!!!!! THEN , they will last more than 5 thousand miles and you wont have to bother a member to drive 50 miles to bring you a set of brakes and help install them..... Bongobob...YOU DA MAN...Sorry becky it took so long getting Bobby home, you must be starved by now....
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I bought this '86 VR on mothers day ( 4 weeks ago ) Of course the previous owner said it was in great shape and a great bike. I rode it home in the pouring rain (80 miles) weather men were wrong again. I found several things I wasn't happy with but I could fix them. Started with the lights and fix the bad ones then I found the rear break froze in the( will not let the tire move ) position. I thank you all for the past posts on brakes, a BIG help! Fighting with brakes and rebuilding the rear caliper was soooo much fun I dread ever doing it again but It's done now. I figured the battery was bad because of the hard starting issue, it was but also every item that GeorgeS stated in one post. I found an issue even with the starter and ended up cleaning it up and fixing the corrosion issue and now one turn of the starter and she is running. Also made new bigger cables for the starter circuit. Clean grounds and every terminal on the bike it seams. Horns didn't work, so now we have new air horns, very loud! Well finished up the brakes this morning around 7am and putting on all the stuff I took off around 8:30. Then as if on cue, I pulled the bike out of the garage and started it up, and the RAIN started, weather men wrong again. I finally got to take her the the gas station around 10 am, She rode great. Thank all of you for the Help...... Eddy G
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Help, here is my problem. I have LED tail lights on my Hannigan trike and they are suppose to blink three times and the go steady when you apply the brakes. They work fine when I apply the brakes with the engine off but with the engine running they work fine for the first two times you apply the brakes but then on the next brake application they start blinking and don't stop blinking as long as you hold the brake lever or press the foot brake. The problem only occurs when the engine is running. I have checked all the grounds and it seems to be getting good ground. I have even run a ground stright to the battery. Any ideas?
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Argh close call.. Just a heads up for those not too sure about their brakes on the Venture.. I was starting to hear strange sounds from my rear brakes when I applied them but when I checked the pads I could see quite a bit of wear left on the one side but the inside pad I couldn't see properly.. but hey, if the outside pad has life left to them then the inside pads must also, right? Egads no.. Just because the noise was making me nervous, I opted to change the pads out anyway, what the heck, start of the season, at least I'll know they'll be good for most of the rest of the summer.. and dayum!! Might as well say it was metal on metal.. Though the outside pad showed life left to it, the inner pad was wore right down to the metal pad holder.. wow.. Good thing I didn't decide to push it further.. It certainly didn't sound like a worn pad metal to metal sound but now I know what it sounds like on this bike.. The hardest part of the job is taking the bag off the bike.. So when in doubt, get in there and check.. I was quite surprised how badly worn they were.. wow. and Phew for going ahead with the pad change..
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Hi Folks Just bought my second first generation Venture and need some experienced advice on a couple of problem areas (noted so far!) It has 19,000 miles (I don't think it is 119,000 miles as the compression and power are very good and the motor and rust look very original)...The stator is putting out a good charge, the bike has been sitting and runs ok but the carbs might need cleaned..All electric works fine..Has a new clutch, new front fork seals, good tires, and all instruments work ok. Even has a working original am/fm/cassette. The plastic fairing is in good shape well, normal small cracks mid-frame, windshield is new, and rear bags are in good shape, a new battery also. Now the bad stuff: I only seem to have front brakes. Think it needs a rebuilt master cylinder kit or has a stuck piston. Front brakes stop it really good. Just wondered, the rear brake has no compression, yet the front brakes work. Does this indicate back brakes have fluid? Bike starts up with coaxing. After warming up it will cruise at 80+ (well I had to try it out!) and the carbs don't sputter and seem to hum in unison. A local bike shop nearby quoted me $80 a carb to rebuild and sync..I put a strong dose of carb cleaner in the gas to see if it would help. Perhaps it needs a good long run to clear the carbs out. (when I get better brakes) And of course, the dreaded Yamaha second gear problem. It shifts ok but pops out of second if you wind it out. I read the thread on Venture WWW site but am not that good a mechanic. I think this is also an expensive fix so may have to live with it (or) will the transmission eventually lock up? Previous owner replaced the orig toe shifter with toe/heel clunker as well as running boards for feet, think this encouraged stomping bike into gear and led to the second gear problem, maybe.. Any other problem areas you have experienced that I need to check? Thanks for advice James
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I have just purchased this aged bike. It has 80K km but appears to be in fine shape. The last owner had it in his underground parking spot for the last 4 years and only rode it 2,000km in that time - so it has had an abundance of downtime. The only obvious issue I can see is the front right fork seal is leaking - do these have to be replaced in pairs (ie. left and right)? Also, any suggestions on what else I should be thinking about to get her ready for the road (should Spring ever arrive - HA!)? I am going to do a complete fluid change - was wondering if I should maybe replace the brake lines (they appear tired) and replace all the rubber parts in the masters and calipers? Open to any and all suggestions from those that know a heck of a lot more than me (that would be just about everyone on this site!). Cheers
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I was investigating how to bleed the brakes on my 83 and am completely confused. Everyone has mentioned that the rear brakes are bled at 3 places, yet if I follow the lines I can only find the lines to the rear and then to the front, Nothing else. At the foot pedal I see the master cyl, the resiovoir, then the lines split to the front and rear. Hard line to the front and a flexible to the rear. THEN I have this wierd thing on the front brakes. You have a caliper, then a second hose going to the front of the fork on each side that also has a bleeder and for the life of me has no function. Unless there is a way for fork compression to push on the brakes. Where is this mythical third bleeding point in the back brake system? Anyone have any details on the 83 bleeding proceedure? Thanks all! when I get some details and run through it, I'll take a bunch of photos and write up a how-to for dummies so nobody else has to stumble through this. Here's hoping I dont shatter the resoivoir when opening it. -
I've had an intermittent brake fluid warning light since I bought this bike(84' Royal) last summer. Pads are new all around and the both reservoirs were/are full. Brakes seemed to operate fine. I decided to bleed the brakes thinking that might help. I'm new to bleeding the brakes on motorcycles, but I have done this on cars as a kid. I bought a mightyvac to help with the process. Not sure if I'm bleeding the system right due to my inexperience. I bled from the metering valve, then the left front, then the rear. Then I bled the right front. The mightyvac seemed to always pull air bubbles... I started using the mightyvac just get everything primed and then finished off by pumping the pedal, holding it down, opening the bleeder valve and re-tightening. I continued this sequence as often as needed to make sure there were no air bubbles. Brakes seem to work fine, but the warning light is now on all the time... I then removed the rear reservoir lid(this sucks) to check that the rubber boot and float were OK. There was some black sludge in the bottom of the reservoir so I drained and cleaned the inside. I pumped lots of Dot 3 to flush everything. Put it all back together and the warning light is still on. I also noticed that my pads seem to touch the rotors even when I am not applying the pedal. The wheels do turn, but with some resistance. Is this normal? I'm open for some suggestions. Thanks. Vince -
Is DOT 5 an option for the 2ndG RSV? It is time to flush the brakes.
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Working on the brakes on my '87 Royale today. The rear pads were down so I replaced them. I also checked the fronts but they were O.K. I did notice on all the brakes that the calipers were partially extended and the pads were against the discs, making it a bit difficult to get them off the disc. Should they not be more or less fully retracted when the brakes are not being applied?
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Thought I'd give a sneak preview of this year's upgrades on Goldie. I'm finally doing the MK2 upgrade of the brakes which includes replacing the front suspension. Here's the shocks as of today, waiting on the rest of the new parts... Brakes and Master Cylinders are already done as well as nice new SS lines. So are the Calipers. Now to install all these nice "Good as new" parts!
