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Showing results for tags 'brake'.
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Saw a rear brake caliper on E-Bay for buy it now price of 300 bucks. If that thing goes I will be tearing down some Ventures and riding 750!!!! I could be a Rich man!!
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I followed an old harley home from work last evening. When the guy applied his brakes his brake light came on. He also had high intensity led's that light up inside his red turn signal lenses. Then on his rear bags he had two very bright small red led's that flashed on/off about every half second. This was a real eye catcher no problem seeing his brake lights from a distance. Not sure if his setup was legal but definitely noticeable.
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where is the best place ( Service / Price ) to order the EBC brake pads from??? Think I`m riding on a prayer ..... Thanks
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My problem is the brake light warning is displayed on my digital readout from time to time. The brakes are o.k. and I don't think they are the problem. Plenty of fluid in the reservoir. It will sometimes come on when I hit a rough spot in the road or when my speedo starts roaring like the old 1st gens do from time to time. Then sometimes it will not display for serveral miles. Has anyone had this problem? I'm leaning toward a poor electrical connection. Any ideas? Ronnie -
Hi. I am wondering if anyone knows how I can find out a bolt size, thread size, etc. The part number is 90153-10015-00 and it is the fill plug from my rear brake reservoir... I took it out this evening, and dropped it when it came out of the hole... can't find the dang thing anywhere! Thanks! -
I have look in the Tech section but I did not find anything on brake replacement. Can anyone dirrect me to a thread on replacing the rear brkaes? Thanks, Danny
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Can I replace the sight glass window in the clutch / brake reservoirs ? I have one that is rotted out and the others are not far behind. Thanks, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont -
Got a question to all my fellow 06 RSV owners. What kind of milage do you get out of your rear brakes,cuz it seems like every time I need a rear tire ( about 8,000miles)I'm having to replace the brakes also and I think that's absurd especially since the bike sees more open highway then around town miles and I have always been more of a front brake first kinda rider.
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I've looked in several places for the device that lets you convert the turn signals to brake lights/running lights. I'd like to do that and was wondering what some of you that have done this on here would recommend. Thanks. -
2nd gen.........dot 3? 4? 5? I'm stuck in NC ......I over heated the rear brake while going down hills /w trailer. They came back after the line cooled down. Their is plenty of pad (both sides) but I want to add a little to the resivoir!!! don't want to mismatch!!!!
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will the frontfroks off an 89 vr fit on an 84 vr i mean the intire front end will the brake line match up----thanks for all your help---dae
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When I purchased my 1987 Venture Royale I noticed right off the bat that the left front rotor/caliper had major problems as did the rear caliper. The left front caliper was sticking so badly that it destroyed the LF rotor. After pricing rebuild kits for the three calipers, the rebuild kits for the front and rear master cyls. and the replacment of the bad front rotor my navigator/accountant said that perhaps I should just part the bike out! I sung the blues to SQUEEZE ( by the way thanks very much for giving me the courage to do this!)and he assured me that the solution was to replace the calipers with calipers from the Yamaha R1 and "de-link" the braking system. I really liked this idea because I also have a Honda V65 magna with the usual braking system. Both front discs operated by the hand lever and the foot pedal operating the rear brake. I purchased 2 front calipers from a 2002 R1 from Ebay for $40.00 with shipping. I also purchased a brake line set from a 2002 VMAX for $28.00 with shipping. Lastly, I purchased a set of stock, used rotors from Ebay for $55.00 with shipping. I picked up a front and rear master cyl. rebuild kit from Rick @ Buckeye Performance (by the way Rick, thanks a bunch!) and althou he was not too keen on me de-linking the brakes he was very friendly and provided excellent service, plus gave me a nice VR ORG. discount. Once the parts arrived, I removed ALL of the old brake lines, rebuilt the front and rear master cyls., installed the VMAX brake line set, moved the right front brake caliper to the rear (waiting on another good buy on a RF R1 caliper.) added a set of speed bleeders on all three calipers, and this was the beginning of the good part, I bled all three wheels out in 8 minutes!! Needless to say the braking is nothing short of UNBELIEVABLE! During one extremely hard brake test I came VERy close to lifting the rear wheel off the ground with NO front brake lock-up, and the decell was breath taking. The more brake lever you grab, the harder these new calipers work! I have included some pics, Part 2 will be the addition of an R1 rear caliper and part 3 will be the replacment of the stock front rotors with a set of modified R1 floating rotors. I will keep you posted as the rest of this story unfolds. Any questions, please feel free to ask me, SQUEEZE is the Master, I'm just the desiple. Ride Safe, Stop Safe, Earl.
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brake fluid reservoir troubles
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hello everyone. This is my first post and I will make it quick and painless. I got my bike home from the shop yesterday(from which it remains with rear brake issues but I am trudging through them myself) went to add some fluid to the rear brake fluid reservoir only to run into an issue. The nipple(I'll call it that for lack of a better word) that seats the bolt on the reservoir snapped off the reservoir. If you are familiar with the rear reservoir I'm sure you know what I am describing. I've got the shop in search for a new reservoir (at no cost to me). If it happens that they cannot find one, can it be welded back on, or epoxied or liquid steeled back into place. I know it's not under pressure, but does anyone out there have any experience with this type thing? I can get the reservoir but I have to buy the master cylinder as well and I don't want to go through that expense. thanks in advance. mAm:crying: -
I replaced my rear pads and discovered 2 pistons were stuck. Removed the caliper and removed each piston. Had a little gunk to remove from each piston and now it works great. After i replaced the pads i have noticed that they seem to grab and slip a little. Very noticable especially when using the rear to slow down at high speed. Never had this happen with the old brakes. Dont know if the rotor is bent or the brake pads need to set. Any ideas?
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Like most thing mechanical, my change out of the rear brake pads has gone to crap. 3 of the 4 pistons pushed right in, but I have one that I can not get to move. I think I messed up the old pads trying to compress the piston and the new one will not go in. Tips / Advice? I started to torch it and file an insurance claim.
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I di d a search to look fo ra MOd like this But i didnt find one. I s there a simple Mod that will Have the rear turning lamps come on with the brake light? I Saw a H/D the other day and hehad this done to his bike. It made it very noticable when braking. -
1983 venture. Front right brake = work perfect! back brakes and left front = nothing. Bled the front left, squirts out brake fluid. Bled back, squirts out fluid. Did that for about an hour, nothing. petal goes all the way down. Came here and read everything i could find about 1st gen brakes.. seems others had this problem also.. found there is supposed to be a bleeder up by the forks? took off front fairing. Found what apears to be a valve up under there? No bleeder looking thing like i saw in a pic just a bolt? what the heck! bled that too, about 8oz of fluid.. Breaks still go all the way down.. bled front and back again.. all squirt real good. Brake still all the way down.. no stopage (that a word?) at all when i roll it back and forth. :crying: so 3+ hours of bleeding and about 16oz of fluid and still no brakes? Am i doing it wrong? i have bleed brake on a car before but never a bike, and never a linked system like this.. What do i do next? Help! lol
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I have a 89 VR, want to replace brake pads front and rear. Where should I get the pads and do I need to do anything to the rotors before the install
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I think I've seen the wiring diagram I need on this site somewhere. What I'm looking for is how to wire a single LED to operate as both a running light and a brake light. Different resistors and a diode are needed if memory serves right. The running lights work at 9v and the brake lights at 12v. Any help with this project?
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Everyone knows that the brakes on a Venture and Road Star sound like hell after a while.. noisy, metal on metal noise and no matter what you do, the dealer tells you it's normal and you learn to live with it.. Mine was making that noise and it really bothered me to the point that I would not use the front brakes when pulling into a crowder parking lot.. I took someone's advice and attempted to use some squeal remover compound behind the brake shim but ran into a problem where one of the 4 retainers looked damaged.. (there are 2 per caliper on which the brake pad shoulders slide back and forth across, sorry can't remember the proper nomenclature).. However, the part looked like it was making contact with the disk.. When I put everything back together again, the sound was even worse but you could actually see how it was cutting into the disk now. So I ordered new ones.. at $20 each.. sheeesh!! hopefully gold plated but no.. Anyway, long story short, new pads, new shims, and new clips and the front brakes are quieter than a squished bug on your windshield. Most likely a combo of new shims and pads.. However, if your brakes are making more than the normal amount of noise, give these parts a look-see.. you never know.. Cheers
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Just turn 20,000 miles on my 2005 RSV and decided to check the brake pads. Front pads looked new but rear pads were gone. My question is, are the front and rear brake linked and no front brake being applied, or am I just using to much rear brake???
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I found a crack in my left front brake rotor on my 86VR,if anyone has one I could sure use it.Cant ride till I find one:crying:My email is eyehook@aol.com or call me at 904-534-4059.
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I have been having trouble with my Rear brake on my 83 venture. I had light brake pressure, but if I pump it up, it works fine for a while. So I rode the rest of last week with it that way because it was good weather. and It stops fine with just me on it. Yesterday I was riding to get something at the store and the rear brake was dead, no stopping if I pressed it, OK.. I'll limp home... two stops on the way home I instinctively press the brake pedal even though there is no brake... It worked on the last one but then did not release. I had to shove my toe under it and pry it back up. What could have caused the brake actuator to bind up like that? I have no leaks, no brake fluid on the pavement or on the bike. I'm going to disassemble the bike today to see further. the pedal it's self is loose, the linkage to the master is stiff moving in or out. -
Today I found that the left side caliper is getting absolutely no hydraulic pressure when the brake lever is pulled. First I thought it was a corroded bleeder so I took it out. Still no fluid. I then undid the banjo bolt from the brake house and still no pressure. Far as I went today. Looks like I either have a collapsed brake line or a T fitting that is blocked. In any event, are aftermarket steel braided lines available for a 86 Venture? Also,,,, anyone ever have this happen? No inherent weirdness that plaques these front braking systems are there? -
I just bought a very clean, low-mileage '84 and am working my way through a few issues. Probably the most troubling is the bottoming and nearly complete lack of dampening on the front forks. They are so bad that I can bounce them up and down (with or without brake applied) and hear them hit what appears to be the end of their travel. The PO had someone do a variety of work to this bike including "replacing fork seals" although I don't see any parts on the work order for over 6 hours of labor! Since I could see that there was a leak at the lower mating surface of the left anti-dive, I drained all the oil from that side. After removing the EAND, I cleaned and inspected the o-rings and grooves. They were not hard not flattened and had no nicks. So, I put them back in, put a light coating of Yamabond on the surface and tightened the bolts. After I put in 13.5 oz of 15W oil, I let it sit for 24 hours, aired it up to about 13 with the CLASS and found virtually no difference. While I have a spare set of forks from another '84, I really hate to do the swap and brake bleeding if I don't need to. There is an apparent adjustment at the bottom of each of these and some mention in the Tech area about the Service Manual "being wrong". All it says is to "turn the bolt to the maximum (??) position. Compress the front forks while applying the front brake. If the forks compress easily, the anti-dive system may be damaged. Is it worth fooling with this adjustment? Is it worth swapping out this unit from a different fork? Is it possible that the fork springs are so weak that this might be the only cause (It is 24 years old, but only has 31K). Could the mechanic that the PO used have misassembled something that would allow such clunky bottoming? (There are no apparent fork leaks). If he simply put the springs in upside down; would that allow this condition? Any ideas will be appreciated. Murph'
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