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Showing results for tags 'rear'.
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OK, I looked through the archives and couldn't find anything specific to the E2 error on the CLASS system. Here is the scenario, bike is a '89 with about 75k miles and tons of service records since new: When airing up the rear shock using the automatic setting of the CLASS, the pressure never gets above 35 psi for the rear shock. At about this range the pressure stops rising and the controller goes to E2 and cycles after 5 seconds to reset. E2 error code indicates that the controller does not detect a rise in pressure with the compressor running. The compressor runs and sounds relatively healthy, I really don't have a reference to compare. Here is what I have done so far: Re-soldered the CLASS controller, didn't find any broken solder joints, but re-soldered anyway Serviced the desiccant, found it to be pink in color, heated in the microwave until dark blue, checked the filters and replaced the O-rings in the container and lines Found the air intake filter almost disintegrated, disconnected the airlines and forced the compressor to run, replaced all the O-rings, cut a new air intake filter and re-installed Checked the valve block and pressure sensor, disconnected the air hoses and cleared the passages with the compressor Check all electrical connection, disconnected, cleaned and greased connection, checked for battery voltage at compressor Checked for pinched air hoses to the rear shock, disconnected hoses and manually inflated shock. The funny thing is that I can manually block the air fitting for the rear shock at the valve block and the pressure will rise up to 71 psi without any problems. I tried airing the rear shock up using the manual feature and if I let the compressor just run for a few seconds the pressure will ultimately begin rising. I can even get the rear shock up to 85 psi this way. But with the automatic function the pressure will not go past 35 psi with timing out into E2. Has anybody encountered this before? I know the air suspension on these bikes is touchy, but it drives me nuts. Two-up I really like running 71-75 psi in the rear, running this solo almost breaks my already damaged back. Has anybody a know good compressor and valve block laying around to verify that the problem is in this area? Thanks in advance for all your comments, Klaus -
Hi: I am wondering if anyone could give me their experiences on rear brake life. I have an awful rough scraping sound going on in the rear when applying rear brake. No squealing or anything just the scraping sound. I don't recall it being there last fall when I stored the bike. I had a look at the caliper and it looks liket there is still plenty of pad on the outer side of the disc. I could not get a good look at the inside though. The rotor feels a bit torn up on the inside surface as well, especially around the holes. I now have about 23,000 kms (or about 15,000 miles). It may be that the brakes are worn out already, but i thought they should last longer than that. Any help or comments from other 2nd gen riders appreciated! Cheers spaceman
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Ok, this might be the answer to the question nobody ever asks, but here it goes anyway. My wife has always complained about the location of the rear headset connector, on the left side of the trunk. When plugging into the headset jack, the cable ultimately seems to come loose due to the upward pull on the straight connector. In the end the female socket broke out of the bracket and went intermittent. So the initial fix was to plug the intermediate cable of the headset into connector under the seat and routing the cable up next to the back rest. This solved the loose connector issue but introduce a different problem. By doing this you actually circumvent the handheld controller with the CB control and volume function. Which wasn't too bad until we invested into some nicer, modular helmets. Now the volume difference was very noticeable, I am almost deaf as it is, so turning up the master volume was the only way for me to hear the intercom. This made the wife's ears ring, as she has much better hearing left then I do. I cranked the volume on the front handlebar controller all the way up, but it was not enough to create enough bias front to rear. The ultimate solution (at least for us) can be seen in the pictures below. I bought a 5-pin DIN MIDI Extension Cable of EBay for a few $'s, you can also look for an AT Keyboard Extension Cable. I cut the cable in half as the shortest one I could find was around 6'. Then I removed the controller bracket of the trunk with four TORX screws holding it on and soldered the female extension side in parallel with the headset socket. As far as I know the cable colors are none standard, so I used a Ohm Meter to map the wires to the existing socket, which actually uses 6 wires with the shield. I insulated everything and replaced the strain relief to the grommet to include the new connector. The controller bracket was remounted and the headset intermediate cable was plugged into the new female connector and routed up the back rest. Now the wife can set her own headset volume using the volume control on the rear CB controller. I can set the bias between Satellite radio, Intercom and CB in the front and leave the volume on the handlebar controller untouched, she can set her own master volume in the rear using the rear CB controller. This should hopefully make riding more enjoyable until I have get under the knife for double knee surgery in May... Klaus
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Here's the deal, Old Hippy wanted Squidley to help him install new SS brake lines, we live halfway between the two so everybody met here. Brad and Lonna and Chuck and Nancy all got here Friday evening. By 11:00pm we had Chuck's 92 VR all stripped down and ready for work. Saturday we installed new SS brake lines and seviced the driveshaft and rear pumpkin. 93 Venture and Pumpkin (Darrin and Deb) came over to join in the fun too. It was a great weekend, upgraded Chuck's bike and had some social time to enjoy our friend's company. It was raining lightly when Chuck and Nancy left so we got to check out their new rainsuits (as you can see from the pics, it would be hard to not see them). The only downside to this weekend was that I found sidewall cracks in my rear tire while checking the pressure. Avon Venom made in 2006 then we found cracks in Chuck's rear tire, not on the sidewall but in the tread, Avon Venom made in 2006, actually made a week apart from mine. So I'll have a new rear tire on this week. I only had about 3500 miles on this tire kept at 50 lbs. psi.
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Thinking about Metzlers for my TD. Any size suggestions? I wanted to go with a bigger rear tire, but i'm not sure if it is wise. Any input is welcomed.
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Hello, Does anyone have a turn signal that will fit a 96 RSTC? I need one for the front but I think that front and rear are interchangeable. Thanks
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To all RSV and ventures riders. I have changed my rear brakes 6 times and 2 times in the front and found out that in the reat the inner pad wears out quicker than the outer pad. (has to do with the hydrolics) So now I change the pads from the left to the right (swap them over) after some riding (AND WITCH IT DOESN'T TAKE LONG TO DO ABOUT 15 MINUTES ) So when I do check them, i swap them over, but only if they need it. It depends on the thickness whether or not it needs to. But I always scrub them in by hitting the rear hard for the first couple of times. With riding in the Adelaide hills almost every Sunday (hard) I have not lost the rear brake at a sharp bend (so far) I have done just over 60,000 km
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Hey Folks, Just changed what I think are the original plugs on my 2000 RSV with 12,000 miles. Bike ran great all last year since purchasing in 6-08 with 5,000 miles. Question is the left rear plug is fouled. I don't know if it is a problem or not - so I took a few pictures and would like to have some experienced feedback. Also, the left rear carb has some oil residue where the intake attaches to the carb. Cleaned out the air box - wasn't much oil but appeared to have pooled when the bike is on kick stand. Could that be the problem? Thanks
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No doubt this has been hashed over more than a few times, yet in searching through threads I am not really finding the answer to my question. So here it is. I have a 05 RSTD have been running stock tire Bridgstone Excedra and getting less then six thousand miles on the rear. So now it is time once again to replace last seasons rear tire. I have seen folks using the Venom, and the E 3. The specified tire size is 150/90 HR 15. Can not seem to find the Elite 3 in that size. So then what tires are other RSTD riders using and are they HR rated, how are your tires working out mileage wise during longer trips etc. We do pull a small trailer as well, over pretty much all road conditions, including an occasional dirt stretch.
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I was investigating how to bleed the brakes on my 83 and am completely confused. Everyone has mentioned that the rear brakes are bled at 3 places, yet if I follow the lines I can only find the lines to the rear and then to the front, Nothing else. At the foot pedal I see the master cyl, the resiovoir, then the lines split to the front and rear. Hard line to the front and a flexible to the rear. THEN I have this wierd thing on the front brakes. You have a caliper, then a second hose going to the front of the fork on each side that also has a bleeder and for the life of me has no function. Unless there is a way for fork compression to push on the brakes. Where is this mythical third bleeding point in the back brake system? Anyone have any details on the 83 bleeding proceedure? Thanks all! when I get some details and run through it, I'll take a bunch of photos and write up a how-to for dummies so nobody else has to stumble through this. Here's hoping I dont shatter the resoivoir when opening it. -
Going to go for an aftermarket rear progressive shock for my 83', wondering where to get one or a part number and help would be great. -
Today I bought a 85 VR with 49,000 miles got a great deal $1,000.00 bucks has a couple of issues it will need fork seals. It has a miss and suppers at high rpm it has been settin for a while put half can of sea foam and filled tank with premium. Class system was unpluged pluged it up got E-4 code. Main concern is rear brake is draging going to drain old and put new fluid and bleed. Thought I saw something about someother problem that might cause it? -
I have a 87 venture that i traded for. It runs good, but the class system is not working properly. I have searched the forum and found out how to fix the E1-E4 problems. I purchased a owners manual for this bike off of ebay. There is now mention of how to operate the leveling system. It shows how to put air in the front and rear. My questions are: where do i find info on how to use the class system? And do I still have to manually put air in the front forks and rear shock? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
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Two weeks ago I replaced the rear tire and put progressive springs in the forks. Also replaced the rear brake pads while I had everything apart. To compress the pistons in the caliper, I removed the bolt from the rear master cylinder to relieve pressure. Cleaned all brake parts, and bled the line following the factory manual (rear caliper, front caliper, metering valve, in that order). Around town the brakes work fine, but if I don't use them for awhile out on the road get no action from the peddle. It is very soft and depresses quite a ways with no stopping action from the rear/front left. If I 'pump' the peddle it returns enough to stop the bike with just the peddle. The front right is having no problems. I'm not sure what to look at next. It seems to me that if they start out tight and work around town that it wouldn't be the master cylinder, and it can't be brake fade from a misaligned pad heating up because it affects both calipers. Any ideas?
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Could someone point me to a link with good directions to remove rear wheel on a 2007 venture so i can take to dealer and mount my new avon tire.
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I have to remove the rear wheel on my RSV and have the tire changed. I have the jack stand adaptor with legs but from pics I have seen I think I have to go quite high up in order to get the rear wheel off. I am some what concerned about going this high up, any advise? Harry
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I am having a problem with my rear seat. I have a drivers backrest and needed longer bolts to install that with the rear seat. I thought I got the right size bolts, but they are obviously slightly different because I cannot get them to tighten up anymore. I have had the backrest on for about a year now and have only recently started having this problem. I tried taking the backrest off and using the stock bolts, but they won't tighten down now either. Any suggestions besides get a new mounting bracket for the rear seat?
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I replaced the front springs with progressives and now need to do something with the rear. I ride very aggressively and now the rear end wallows. I don't want to have to remove the class [it's all the class i have left] like I did on the front. after reading some of the other threads I see that I can replace just the spring since there are no air or fluid leaks is the shock rebuildable? how does the remote dampening work is there anything there that needs maintenance? Am I just being stubborn about keeping the air? There's no way I'm going to adjust the progressive with a spanner more than 1x a year is the loss of adjustability going to make a big differance between single\double baggage\empty. ride quality is important but handling is first. THANX:Venture: -
I'm putting this in the classifieds as well.. Parting out my old 83 VR.. Plastic is mostly shot Lots of other great parts.. Not interested in Ebaying stuff. I'm more interested in getting rid of most of the stuff rather than getting rich.. Backrest, Floorboards w/ heel toe shifter,TCI, very nice rear chrome and most all other misc parts. PM me , ask for what you need and we'll make a good deal... Clay
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I have a 93 venture royale in need of a new rear shock progressive tells me I have to remove the CLASS and remote rebound dampening systems. I sacraficed the CLASS lines to the front forks and don't regrett it at all. but the rear is another story I could be 2 up luggage or solo and carvin' corners. is there an aftermarket upgrade or should I stick with a N.O.S. shock? any comments welcome. THANX
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I have a 07 RSMV with the 404's on it. From all I read here...I cannot wait to get those tires off the bike. Only got about 4K in them now. If fact I am thinking about going ahead and swapping both now. Elite 3's or the Venoms I am going back with stock sizes. Tonight I was doing some research on which tire should buy. I have used Dunlops religously for years on all my racing bikes and had really good luck from them (we don't care about longivity dirt just don't come apart and get good traction), but I feel there is not as much infor on the Elite 3's to just go with them. Avon's have a lots of information from this site and others that indicate good luck they are a good choice. I do not know anybody personally that is running nothing but the stock 404 or Brickstones. One concern that I could not find any information on... WIDTH?... Stock tire width according to manufactor... Dunlop 404 Front and rear 6.06" (white walls are a little bit wider 6.08 and 6.05 ???) 150/80-16 71H BW 32KY-91 3.50 25.43 6.02 6/32 761 @ 41 150/90-15 74H BW 32NI-50 4.00 25.60 6.02 9/32 827 @ 41 Dunlop Elite 3 front 5.97" rear 6.02 150/80-16 71H BW 4079-89 3.50 25.54 5.97 6/32 761 @ 41 MV85B15 77H BW 4079-45 3.50 25.50 6.02 11/32 910 @ 40 Avon Venom Front 6.20" Rear 6.30" 150/80-16 71H MT3.50 3.00 - 4.00 157 6.20 637 25.10 150/90B15 74V MT3.50 3.00 - 4.00 159 6.30 645 25.40 Now that is .28" wider than stock rear. about 9/32" (over 1/4") wider than stock. I know a little over 1/8" on each side. I know there is very little room now between the stock tire and drive shaft tube. Anybody had any problems with the tire rubbing to drive shaft tube? This has me really scatchin my head. It seems they be too wide and may rub or is it the way the measure the width of the two different manufacters tires? Anybody have this issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated. What gives?
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Hey All: I went to have my annual inspection weekend before last and unlike last year I hung around till it was done. When they said its ready...I asked...Did you check everything...YES...They said...Everything good until next year?..YES...They said...Did you take the rear saddlebag off to check the rear pads...NO..They said....Why:confused24:..not....I said...WE use a mirror...OK...I said.... NOTE: Last year I left it to have the new WWW's put on along with the inspection.....and came back later in the week.... I came home last weekend...Pulled the Saddlebag....Pulled the Rear Pads....See what I found below with my pixs...Just finished put on EBC FA123HH sintered pads....I posted the pixs for two reasons; 1. to show how the pads can wear unevenly.....Really a design flaw I think...and 2. To show why it is important to just know HOW for the Safety Thing George In Virginia
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Looks like I will be riding a new to me 07 venture home soon. It will be a 6 hour ride back home from the dealer. I want to know what is the correct pressure for the front and rear suspension, and the correct pressure for the front and rear tire? I am 6'-1" tall, 200#, very little cargo, and no passenger. Also, any other advice you may have as the venture is new to me. I have put a few miles on a couple ventures that I have looked at, so I know what to expect as far as handeling. Thanks.
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When I ordered my tire from SWmoto I ordered the front size in a rear tire. Now I think I'm pretty well stuck with a new tire that won't fit anything I know. Anybody have a cross reference for tire sizes for the 150/80HB16 Rear in Dunlop 404's ? Shipping this thing back will cost more then probably putting it on Ebay. Any help will be appreciated. God Bless. Mike
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I was looking at philmartin's illustration and the original bike he based it on- and really like the look of the rear trunk bib. Does anyone have a supplier for this leather rear bib? I would like to put one on my RSV.
