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saddlebum

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Everything posted by saddlebum

  1. saddlebum
    This is very sad news. Prayers and Condolences sent to the family
  2. saddlebum
    removeing the diapharam covers and slides is not that big of a job, you can do it on the bike. Then get a good qualty choke and carb cleaner with a straw attachment. Once the you have the parts out of the way you can flush most of the passages inc all the vacume hose fittings. I would atleast give that a try before removing the entire carb.
  3. saddlebum
    A possibility, and if so, you need to find out why the voltage is dropping. It has been my experience however that the ignition on these bikes are quite capable of firing at very low batterry voltage. but just to be sure, try the following. Dissable the ignition, so the bike will not fire. Connect a reliable voltmeter, to the battery and crank the engine. Battery voltage, should not drop below 9.5 vlts. If it does then you have either (A) a weak battery, so get it load tested, or (B) a starter that is drawing too much currant. If the battery stays above 9.5 vlts while cranking then check to make sure all your wire connections, speacialy your grounds, are clean and secure. On the other hand going by the discription, assuming I am reading it right, I would be leaning towards the carbs. you could have A dirty or plugged low speed idle passage in the carb. this would make it very hard to get gas at cranking RPM but once the engine fires it begins to develop enough are air flow through the carbs to draw gas from the high speeed passages. try taking the air cleaner off and pouring seafoam down the carbs, while the engine is running at a slightly elevated rpm then let it idle down, snuff out. and let it sit for 1/2 hr, then fire it up again. Beware of nieghbours this produces a real thick cloud of white smoke The next thing too try is spray carb cleanner through as maney accessible passages as you can Check all your hoses and connections, for a vacume leak. A simple way to do this is connect a propane can to a small hose, open the propane do not light it and only open a reasonable amount. With the engine running pass the open end of the hose around all your carb mounting and hose connections, listening for any changes in RPM.
  4. saddlebum
    And to think someone tried to tell me that there were no straight stretches that go down hill in that part of the country.......and I almost believed them.
  5. saddlebum
    I know you are :whistling:that is why you should stay away from ice cream. . . . . I wouldn't want you to get frost bite:cold:
  6. saddlebum
    You can never be too experienced. . . . . . But then again maybe you could, , , , but that may not be a good thing.
  7. saddlebum
    This guy seems to spell it out pretty good [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYpal0Gfvj8]YouTube - Shoei RF-1100 Review - The Helmet Harbor[/ame]
  8. saddlebum
    The friction zone method as has been metioned is a good thing to practice. One thing that has not been metioned however is that while using this method some bikes require that you keep the revs up while slip riding the clutch. Another method I like to practice is to bring the bike to a dead stop with the rear brakes while maintaining balance with your feet on the pegs. just when you feel you are about to loose balance ease off the brake a bit bring up the RPM and slip the clutch to just get a bit of forward movement. and once you do using the rear brake bring the bike to another stop, continuing to try holding your balance.You will be amazed at how quickly you will regain your balance . After a while you will find yourself able to make a series of short little stops and starts that amount to nothing more than a very slow crawl. But practice in a parking lot first as much as possible. When I first learned to ride back in the early seventies I was told by an old guy that anyone can ride fast but it takes skill to ride very slow.
  9. saddlebum
    No and niether is the ice cream and the ice cream is never going to be there so don't bother showing up. . . .That way I can at least get some
  10. saddlebum
    To start with Your hookup is wrong Disconnect the antenna cable, from the radio Connect the antenna cable, to the connector marked antenna, on the SWR meter Take the jumber, connect one end to the radio Connect the other end of the jumper, to the connector on the SWR meter, marked radio Now try adjusting your antenna The way you had it hooked up the SWR meter treats your jumper as though it is the Antenna Cable which of course would be too short and give a false SWR reading Before you hook up the meter, I would advise you check your antenna mounting, as previously mentioned. While the antenna cable is disconnected use an ohmeter, to make sure the antenna is not grounded. Touch one probe to ground, and the other to the metal base, of the antenna itself. you should have no reading at all . If you do, you either put the plastic washer in the wrong location or you are not properly centered in the hole and the center part of the stem may be touch the sides of the hole.
  11. saddlebum
    Hang in there Girl. we all fall at some point, so at least you got yours out of the way early. Hope you got it on video, 5yrs form now you can look back at it and chuckle. And may I suggest different ridding slippers ....ah ....iI mean boots. Bottm line dont give up.
  12. saddlebum
    Another thing you can check, is the disributor shaft, for too much play as well. I have seen where the shaft bushings are worn, to the point that when the engine gets hot the shaft play in the bushings increase and effect the way the points open and close. It often results in the points not opening enough as the engine gets hot sometimes not opening at all depending on how badly the shaft and bushing are worn. A good indication is if your points prematurely build up too much pitting on the contacts. As the point gap gets smaller you start to get arching across the contacts and this will cause the pitting to build up. Too elimanate any electrical condition try running a wire fom the Battery NEG- directly to the engine block, and from the battery POS+ directly to the coil POS+. If the problem goes away check your electrical system, If the problem remains, check the engine and dist for faults. Also check to see if your ignition system uses a balast resister. it is a white ceramic block. If you have one temporarly bypass it with a jumper wire. if the fault remains the resister is ok. If the fault goes away replace it. These resisters usually fail altogether but have been known to work fine until the get hot and then they start failing Boy you are really making me go back in time to when I started as an apprentice 40 years ago. I can actaully smell the shop as I sit here.
  13. saddlebum
    Disregard my previous post. I missed the part were you mentioned points and condesor so obviously my previous post does not apply. When it quits but still cranks over do you still have spark? If so you may have a condition known as vapour lock. this is the result of fuel overheatng in the carb. try adding a spacer between the carb and intake. You may also want to check for any possible intake or vacum leaks. When the engine begins to die try increasing the choke a bit to see if runnig appears to improve. You may also want to check to see that the timing chain has not stretched sometimes when this happens it will run while the choke is on but as the engine warms up and the choke opens the fuel mix is to lean to keep an engine with a stretched chain running. If you do not have spark then follow up trouble shooting for an electrical fault.
  14. saddlebum
    1- What year is the engine and what type of ignition system does it have ? 2- does it always fire up cold and die as it gets hot ? 3- when it dies do you have to wait for the engine to cool down before it will fire up again ? 4- When the engine is running, do you feel the power dropping off so that you need increase throttle ? Certian years of GM engines, with electronic ignition, still using a distributor, had a condition, that fell within the catagory of the above questions. This was caused by th perminat magnet in the distributor. The magnet was made of a semisoft type material. If engine oil leaked up past the shaft seal the magnet would swell up a bit and then it would devolop hairline cracks in it. As the engine got warmer these cracks would increase in size and the engine start to falter and then shut down. Once the engine cooled down these cracks got smaller and the engine would fire up again. Try getting your hands on another distributor and trying it.
  15. saddlebum

    I am ready

    saddlebum replied to BradT's topic in Picture Folder

    That is a nice looking machine Brad
  16. saddlebum

    tool

    saddlebum replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    So let me get this straight . . . you are saying not to sart with C-4 1st
  17. saddlebum
    That would be great if you do Brad. I sent you a PM with my address in case you do.
  18. saddlebum
    It is the air preasure sensor (circled on the parts picture below) used on the 1st gen class air suspension sytem, found on 1983-93 Venture royals
  19. saddlebum
    Glad to hear you doing well. Not to frighten you but I have a friend who ran into complications because he thought he was tough and did too much too soon so go slow and give things time to heal. On the up side all my other friends who have been through this came through superbly.
  20. saddlebum

    tool

    saddlebum replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    Try drilling a hole and then tapping in a torx bit. It helps if you grind the end of the torx bit flat so as to leave a sharp edge on the end. this helps it cut the groves easier as you tap it into the hole also slightly countersinking the edge of the hole will help keep the bit centered as you start tapping it in. This is all I have used for an easy out for years and unlike the spiral type easy outs you can gently work the screw back and forth to help loosen it. Second option is to drill a large enough hole in the head so it will snap off of the stem, remove the cover then use vise grips to remove the remainder of the screw.
  21. saddlebum
    Mmmmmmmm Coffee
  22. saddlebum
    Prayers for Gun Boat sent . If its any consolation maney of the people I know have gone through this and come through just fine. Key is not to do things to soon afterwords.
  23. saddlebum
    You am not only vone..... Me not so undustandink vhy
  24. saddlebum
    After all this time would we even be able to make sense of what an english speaking support person is trying to tell us
  25. saddlebum
    I will double check that just to be safe, but I am pretty sure it is the sensor itself because I am getting the 5 volt refrence signal to the sensor but no return signal from the sensor and it is full of oil. Just the same thanks for the tip and as I said I will double check that to be sure.
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