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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    OK, smart guy - I'll amend it to say fuel system problem vs. ignition system problem. Happy now?
  2. V7Goose
    I cannot intelligently comment on your specific situation - not only was I not there, but even if I was, I might not have been able to figure it out. Here is a similar experience that I had: My RSV is six years old and has about 100,000 miles on it. In all that time, I have had just one single starting problem. It happened a couple of years ago when I went to start the bike to get in line for a July 4th parade. I had no problem getting to the parade area that morning, and the bike had been sitting for a couple of hours waiting for the parade to start. When it was time to get in formation it cranked just fine, but only fired once or twice, then not at all. I cranked and fiddled with it for well `over 5 minutes with no change whatsoever, then it just suddenly decided to start and idle perfectly. No hint of what caused the problem, and I never did figure it out. No way it could have even remotely been the fuel pump 'cause the carbs would still have been full from when I shut it off that morning. And no, it could not have been the kill switch either, since that kills even the starter. My only point is that sometimes strange things happen, and if parts are replace without proving that they are bad, it is easy to assume that is what fixed it. Maybe it did, and maybe it did not. In my case, I probably just said a few very ugly and anti-social things to the friggin' bike, and it started fine thereafter. So I'll assume that the words fixed it. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    That sounds much more likely to be electrical issue than fuel. You use a LOT more fuel at normal running speeds, so if something was intermittent (like the fuel pump), you would probably find it much more often at high engine speed. Unfortunately, an intermittent electrical problem like that, one that doesn't seem to stay bad for even a minute, is going to be a real pain to isolate. Let us know if you need some ideas on isolating the particular circuit. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Evan, I do not believe anybody knows the answer to your question. There are two main issues that I would think about before doing it. First, Seafoam is only about 50% naphtha, and we have no idea if the other components do anything to moderate the affects of the naphtha on things like rubber parts. Note here that we also do not know what affect straight naphtha has on various types of rubber at all - When I was researching the problems associated with carburetor cleaners, I found at least 20 different rubber compounds that are used for o-rings, and there was no single type that was safe with all the various carb cleaning compounds. I have not tried to research naphtha on rubber o-rings. But personally I would be very cautious of using straight naphtha at anything above 50% the maximum label dose shown on Seafoam (50% will equal the actual naphtha concentration you get from Seafoam at max dose). Secondly, "naphtha" is a generic term for a certain type of solvent, and all naphthas or camp fuels are NOT the identical compound. That means trying to guess at either the safety or efficacy of using straight naphtha is kinda like a wild crap shoot. Personally I would not do it, nor do I think it is wise for some people to recommend it. But in the end, they are your engines! Goose I just wanted to add here that in the past I have suggested that someone with really badly fouled carbs who did not want to go to all the effort to pull them and do a proper cleaning could try to shoot straight spray carb cleaner into the fuel line to fill the carbs and let it let it soak that way. We now have a case where someone took that advice, and it seems that a particular brand of carb cleaner (STP) ate his o-rings pretty badly. My bad assumption was that any commercial carb cleaner would be safe to use in a carb. I have since noted that at least one of them carries a label warning to not spray below the throttle plate unless the engine is running - I guess that seems like a pretty clear warning that it can do bad stuff? Needless to day, I am no longer going to advise that technique, even with the brand of carb cleaner that I have found to be fairly safe (Gumout). In addition, I have found several different bikes where the pilot jets were fully and partially clogged, and they took being completely submerged in straight spray cleaner for several hours and at least five different attempts to blow them out with compressed air to finally get them totally clear. This emphasizes to me how hard it is to clear clogged jets and the general futility of attempting that with just putting solvents into the carbs.
  5. V7Goose
    You did not give us enough detailed information about when and exactly how the bike dies. With due respect to those people here who claimed their bikes suddenly died with NO indication whatsoever and was later cured with a new fuel pump, there is a BIG difference between an electrical kill and a fuel kill on a carburetor engine. Frankly, it is totally impossible for this bike to act like an electrical shutdown if the fuel is simply stopped, and it is simple to prove. While it is generally easy to tell fuel starvation when riding at a steady speed on a straight road, it is quite possible to be fooled and not notice it if it happens in town when you are shifting and changing speeds. Here are two simple tests to repeatedly compare how the bike will act with each type of problem. Test them several times and you will become very sensitized to feeling the difference: To simulate an electrical problem, like the side stand, ignition, or roll-over switch, simply hit the kill switch wile you are riding. This will produce an instant total shutdown of the engine, and the results will be dramatic under any conditions, especially if the bike is in gear and being ridden forward. To simulate a dead fuel pump, there are two easy tests. You can start by just turning off the fuel at the tank at various times while riding. While this is not exactly like a dead fuel pump since the actually working pump will be able to pull a little more fuel from the line before the vacuum stops it, the actual results will be virtually the same. The bike will run for several miles on the fuel in the float bowls, then falter a bit before actually dieing. The "faltering" is nothing more than some carbs running dry slightly before the others, and it is represented by a slight change in engine sound and lower power. If the engine is running and in gear, it keeps turning long enough to make it really obvious, but if you have the clutch in the engine can die before you notice it. To experience exactly what happens when the fuel pump really stops pumping, just unplug the fuel pump and go for a ride (the plug is directly below the main fuse box behind the left battery cover). After your bike dies, just plug the pump back in and turn the key on long enough to fill up the carbs (until the clicking stops), then unplug it again and repeat the experiment as many times as you need to have the bike die in different conditions to get used to the sensation. After those tests, you will be absolutely certain if the cause is fuel or electrical the next time the bike stalls on you. Goose BTW - a fouled plug, or even two of them, is NOT going to cause the symptoms you describe. First, that engine will run like a champ on just htree cylinders, and can even be ridden on just two. Furthermore, plugs do not foul and un-foul under normal riding.
  6. V7Goose
    You should not start the motor unless you are actually going to ride it for about 30 minutes or more to allow the oil to get hot enough to flash off all the water that you put into it every time you start the motor (plus the usual cold condensation). That water forms acids with the other combustion pollutants and shortens the life of your engine. MUCH better to properly prepare the engine and never start it until you are going to ride. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    I do not think so. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    It is too bad your dealer is so incompetent - that is one of the most simple things to diagnose. This does not bode well for any other work that you need done in the future. Any chance you have access to a different dealer? Goose
  9. V7Goose
    If you did not pull the clutch hub out of the wheel and grease the drive fingers, that is your problem. Guaranteed. Goose
  10. V7Goose

    Help!

    V7Goose replied to az1103's topic in Watering Hole

    If the carbs have never been pulled, then gas flowing from the right side vent is from the carbs on the LEFT. Yamahaha crosses the vent tuibes. Tapping on the bowls with a screwdriver handle is a good first step, and it often will solve the problem. If not, open the drains on the carbs to let the bowls run dry and the float needles to open as wide as possible, then turn on the key with the drains still open to see if running the fuel pump for a few seconds will wash out any obstruction. Then close the drains and let the fill up normal - I'll bet it will be fine. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    YES, it WILL hurt the bike. Much better to leave it shut down and in storage (make sure you take it out one last time to heat the oil completely and get that Seafoamed gas through the carbs, then fog the cylinders when you put it away). The problem with starting it and running it for a short time is that the oil never gets hot enough to burn off the moisture and acids. Even if you let it idle until the fan comes on, the oil is NOT NOT NOT hot enough. It takes about 30 minutes of real riding (meaning a load on the engine) to get the internals of the engine and the oil up near 200 degrees - just because the coolant is up to that temp does NOT mean the oil is. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    I have not experienced your problem, but I do have an idea about it. In the handle is a brass insert that pivots on the rod that activates the cylinder. I have seen reports that this part wears significantly and becomes out of round. I'd inspect that for problems. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    First, there is no need to open or even loosen the cap on the master to compress the pistons - the cap is vented (that is the only way the system can work). And on a side note, this is exactly why you should never add fluid as your brakes wear. The system is designed so that you can never run too low before the pads are fully worn out, and if you ever top the system up before changing to new pads, you will have a mess when you do compress the pistons. If you ever find a master cylinder BELOW the minimum level, then there has been a leak. Second, try to avoid the use of a C-clamp to compress the pistons, and if you do use one, you MUST use something like an old brake pad over the pistons so that they are compressed evenly. It is VERY easy to cock a piston in the bore if you push it in from just one side, and this can cause real damage to the slave. The fact is that slave pistons must move easily (or else the brakes will constantly drag). Almost always you can easily compress the pistons with nothing more than your thumbs if you use one on each side of the piston and just apply steady pressure. If they are not moving, then they are probably slightly cocked already, and you want to be very cautious of using a clamp to just force them in. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Could be either electrical or crud in the float bowls blocking the idle jets (easy to suddenly drop away and clear the jets). Worse yet, it could be a combination - fuel on some jugs, electrical on others. Very easy to tell which causes a dead cylinder. When the problem is happening, just pull off the rubber cap or hose on the vacuum nipple and spray a little carb cleaner or starting fluid in the nipple. If the plug is firing, it will be IMMEDIATELY obvious. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    I do not understand. In your first post you said you did TWO things: you changed the oil and you lubed the shift linkage. Then the entire rest of this thread seems to have focused on the magical idea that the oil change provided all of the relief to the shifting problem, and the linkage lube did absolutely nothing? ? ? Like I said, I do not understand . . . Goose
  16. V7Goose
    I cannot say for certain about that specific grill, but it may mount similarly to the chrome grill I put on mine. The radiator does not need to be removed or disconnected at all. Mine had a big u shaped hole on the top that just slid around the top center mount. Then the top side bolts near the air filters and the bottom side bolts needed to be removed. The top tabs on the grill need to be bent or twisted sideways a bit to match the angle of the top of the radiator. The top bolts go back in fine, but the bottom bolts can be a super bugger! On my grill those holes did not align perfectly with the bolt holes and took a lot of finagling and prying to finally get the bolts in. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    I did this exact same experiment way back in 2005 or 2006 and posted my results here, but my results were VERY different than yours. Staying in 4th gear and running 75 - 80 (indicated) dropped my gas mileage a LOT. I ran the whole tank on the freeway so the comparison was a true 5th gear to 4th gear comparison under the same conditions without being muddied by some in-town riding in other gears. I seem to recall you were having other power problems on that trip and later figured you were only running on three - might that have had something to do with your results? Overall gear ratio of the 1st gens in 5th is identical to the 2nd gens in 4th. I have compared the published numbers and verified it while riding with 1st genners, just like you did. Since they always claim better gas mileage than we get, I decided to see if the lower gearing would be a benefit. It is not. The lower economy of the 2nd gens is all because of greater wind drag. Personally, I do a LOT of riding two-up and over-loaded, sometimes even pulling a trailer too, and with the stock gearing I have NEVER had to hold the throttle wide open to maintain any speed (and I regularly ride at GPS actual speeds of 75 - 90 MPH here in Texas where even the back roads are posted at 70 and some freeway stretches are higher. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Yes, what you are seeing is the "low wave". Nobody is pointing, It has become the cool, in thing. You can wave any way you like, no need to be cool if it is not you. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Don, there is NO rubber gasket for the spoiler - just the three rubber washers and three steel washers. The rubber washer goes against the inside of the trunk, the steel washer between the rubber washer and the screw. This information is coming straight from the factory instruction sheet, not from my memory or imagination. You do not want to make any sort of a rubber gasket to put under the spoiler - if you do, and it really seals the gap, all you will do is trap a pool of water above the spoiler. The water needs to be able do drain by running under the spoiler. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Yeah, it has an ugly engine. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Most likely it is poor connections in one of the plugs. Re-seat them all several times to scrape the pins good, then lightly coat the contacts with dielectric grease. Do the plugs in the fairing, and if the problem does not go away, check for all the plugs under the passenger seat. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Sorry to have to disagree with you here, but that idea about acetone improving fuel mileage is totally false. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Well, not all spray carb cleaners are created equal, so it is very wise for you to look for the same brand you used. Frankly, I had not given this much thought in the past, and I didn ot particularly care what brand of carb cleaner I used. When I have people come over foer carb work, I just tell them to pick up a couple of cans before they get here. Personally, I have always preferred Gumout Carb+Choke Cleaner (no particular reason why, until now). I currently have both Gumout and Autozone carb cleaners in the garage. After seeing your problems with the rubber, I took a closer look at both. The Autozone Carb Cleaner does not have any cautions about where not to use - not one. In fact, the label tends to make it sound like it might be good for spritzing on just about ANYTHING dealing with intake or exhaust, including fuel injection. BUT . . . The label clearly says it contains both Methanol and Methylene Chloride! Methanol is well known for rubber damage, but not all types of rubber. My quick search showed that it looks like most types of common )-ring materials are safe with Methanol, in particular, nitrile rubber is generally safe with Methanol. I THINK that needle valve tips ore often nitrile rubber, as are some O-rings. But Methylene Chloride is MUCH MUCH worse on rubbers - it even eats nitrile rubber. The ONLY O-ring materials that are "USUALLY" safe with this stuff (for static seals only) is Fluorocarbon and Fluorosilicone. In contrast to that very nasty stuff being sold by Autozone, the Gumout brand is clearly labled as "CONTAINS NO METHANOL OR METHYLENE CHLORIDE." But even though it does not have those bad things in it, the can still has several precautions on where not to use, including that it is not recommended for fuel injected vehicles. However, the MSDS does show that this stuff does contain MEK, which is damaging to many rubber types, including Nitrile. Of course, we are usually not going to know what specific rubber compounds are used anywhere, so the best advice is to stay away from Methanol, and especially Methylene Chloride. SO, I now have a new and very strong recommendation for anyone looking to buy a spray carb cleaner - READ THE LABELS AND DO NOT NOT NOT NOT BUY ANYTHING WITH METHYLENE CHLORIDE!!!! Personally, I think I'll stick with just using the Gumout brand. Has always worked well for me, and I am not aware of any damage. Goose BTW - the STP spray carb cleaner has been discontinued, but the MSDS does show that it contained Xylene, which is almost as bad on most rubbers as Methylene Chloride. Hmmmm, after looking at all the rubbers that are damaged by just three brands of spray carb cleaner, maybe that Pine-Sol stuff is starting to sound better!
  24. V7Goose
    FYI - the owner's manual can be downloaded for free from Yamaha's web site - it has all the answers, and it is really needed to understand that less-than-intuitive radio. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Well sir, I'm sorry if I offended you with my joking comment about your first post, it was not intended. Although I have never heard of using Pine-Sol in carburetors (nor do I have an inclination to try it), I think the idea is worth considering, so I thank you for posting it. I had not seen that before, and all ideas help build our knowledge base and mental tool box. (And I do find pink lettering very difficult to read and just generally unpleasant - but hey, I don't think you were writing for me anyway.) Goose
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