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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    You have not described the "vent" lines well enough to be sure of answering your question. The bike has two small vacuum hoses that connect to the brass nipples on the intake boots just below the carbs (the other two nipples need rubber caps). ABOVE the carbs, but under the big intake plenums, are two overflow vent tubes that connect to a rubber T connector between the carbs on the outside edge near the diaphragm caps. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    I'll be starting on the bike by 0900, but a lot of the early work is just removing the fairing and front wheel. If you can plan on being there at least by noon, you will be able to see the main work. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Welcome to the site! Unfortunately, I don't know if there is going to be a ready-made solution for you; I have never heard of someone needing to replace the whole exhaust system on one of these bikes. But if there is one available, somebody here will know about it. Although I have not personally looked close a the exhaust system with an eye to replacement, I would not expect it to be very hard. The good thing is that the pipes are not typical chromed motorcycle pipes - the only chrome is the heat shields. I expect any muffler shop could easily fabricate new pipes and weld them to the pieces that connect directly to the heads. The existing chrome heat shields could either be welded to the new pipes, or probably clamped on pretty easily with hose clamps on the mounting tabs after they have had little feet added to them. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    In the US, everyone knows that 911 is the emergency number. To my knowledge, 112 is nothing special - when I called it from my cell phone, it simply connected me to 911. Better to not muddy the water with unneeded numbers - just remember 911. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    And THAT is exactly whay they don't go well with cruise control!
  6. V7Goose
    You DO know that the girlie-man stuff on the levers is gonna play havoc with your cruise control, right? Goose
  7. V7Goose
    There are a couple of very significant issues you need to know before you look at one of these bikes - several have been mentioned, but I want to stress them a bit more. First, these are FANTASTIC bikes - I personally prefer the Venture because I want full dresser and more comfort, but the bikes are virtually the same other than that. You are coming off a big twin - you CANNOT try and ride the RSTD like your last bike - it will feel like a tired dog with bad shakes. This is a V4 engine, and you MUST keep the revs up while trying to accelerate quickly; unfortunately, there is no tach to help you. But the engine has a rev limiter at 6,500 RPM, so you absolutely cannot hurt anything by trying to over-rev it! To learn how the bike behaves, and what power is there, keep these two things in mind: Sometime during your test ride, snap the throttle open in 2nd gear and hold it there until you feel the engine falter (that's the rev limiter), then kick it into 3rd and try it again for as long as you dare - you probably will not hit the rev limiter in 3rd, since that will take you to 96 MPH! You do not need to use revs like that in normal riding, but coming off a big twin, you WON'T understand this bike until you do this. You can ride around in city traffic all day in 5th gear, even down as low as 40 MPH with no problem at all, but you CANNOT jerk the throttle open at those low speeds and expect anything but pounding and shaking. Even 60 MPH (about 3,000 RPM in 5th) is a bit too low to jerk the throttle wide open in 5th, so if you are running below 60 and want to pass or generally step out fast, better kick it down to 4th, or better yet, 3rd. My next comment is about handling - before you test ride it, pay attention to what tires are on it - if it has Bridgestones, the bike will feel like it weighs 10,000 lbs in parking lot turns - don't let this worry you, as it is easily fixed, just be aware that it is NOT a characteristic of that bike, just the most horrible tires anyone stupidly put on it. On the other hand, if the bike has Dunlop 404s (the other stock possibility), it will handle about average - those are not great tires, but neither are they terrible. Now let's talk briefly about engine whine - most of these bikes have a bit of it in some narrow RPM range, but it is not bad enough to even comment on. HOWEVER, a very few of them have a terrible scream, and that is a prime reason to find a fairly new RSTD/Venture with low miles (the first owner got surprised with a bad whine and couldn't stand it). The only way you can possibly know if the bike you are considering has a whine problem is to give it a good test ride - whatever it sounds like is your business, but don't agonize over if it is bad or not - if you think it will bother you, it WILL, so look for a different bike without the scream. That's about it - if you like to ride and check out the bike like we have said, you will absolutely LOVE either the RSTD or the Venture. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    I personally would not set it any different than normal - just enough to kill the background noise/chatter. Although setting it at max would probably still allow anyone from the close group to blast through, it has two big drawbacks - first, if someone falls behind, breaks down, or makes a wrong turn, you will quickly be out of range to hear their calls for help if your squelch is too high. Second, you may not hear other fairly close users on the channel, so you might "double" with them (both people keying the mic at the same time). While that won't directly affect you, since you are the one talking, for the other riders in the group, they may only hear loud squeals due to you and the other station transmitting together. So if your squelch is set just slightly above what it takes to block the background noise, you will hear anyone else on the channel that is close enough to the group to cause problems from a doubled transmission. Not only will that allow you to be polite and share the frequency, it will improve the communication within the group 'cause everyone will actually hear what you have to say! Goose
  9. V7Goose
    I am sorry to contradict you, but I feel this is incorrect information, especially the part I highlighted in red. And yes, I was trained in this specific technology as an avionics communication specialist. Mountains and other rough terrain will affect the local communications distance of HF radios, and big cities too; although, individual buildings rarely, and virtually never any interference from a single truck. More importantly, a proper understanding of the squelch function is valuable to your use of a radio. In short, the squelch is simply to shut the radio up below whatever level where the incoming signals are intelligible. Basically, you cannot "hear" any signal that is not stronger than the background noise, no matter what is causing the level of the background noise, so you adjust the squelch to just cut the noise. That way only a signal that is a little stronger than the noise will break through, and you are not forced to listen to all the unintelligible stuff. With a CB radio, typically the background noise will be much lower in the mornings simply because there is less use of the air waves in those hours. Proper use of the squelch does require you to re-adjust it either up or down as the background noise changes. Furthermore, if an incoming signal is strong enough to break the squelch setting, but you do not hear the modulation as you described, this DOES indicate a problem. do a side-by-side test with any other radio to see if there is actually a difference. For that test, using another RSV is best to eliminate any major technology differences between the two setups. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    I sure hope you have a good dealer, as the problem you describe will be completely beyond most of them. I would suspect at least 95% of bike shops would simply blow it off by saying it is normal operation. If that is what they try, you best chance might be to get together with another RSV rider and have both bikes there together. Use the speakers on both bikes and transmit from yours, waiting for a contact to try and get back in touch with you that you can hear only on the other bike. Of course, that test would be easier with a THIRD bike (anybody with a radio, not just an RSV) that could ride away until they get to the limit of your communication range. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Is your CB antenna on the left side? Very occasionally these bikes are delivered with the antennas swapped. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    I do not know what to tell you - if the noise is from other radios, then it is normal. In fact, hearing so much traffic from other radios simply proves that your receiver is working very well. If you have a problem being heard by others, than that could be caused by a maladjusted SWR on your bike. If the signals are breaking your squelch, but you cannot understand them, maybe it is your headsets? Having to run a squelch of 14 is not unusual in the afternoons on the superslab. But I have absolutely no problem hearing or talking to other drivers up to about 5 miles away (depending on the conditions, of course), based on their own identification of their 20. There is no way for me to know how many I do NOT hear, of course, but I have no indications that I am missing anything than I have with any other mobile rig for the last 40 years. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    I do not know what type of static you are hearing, or under what conditions, but your experience is not typical. Maybe you have the wrong plugs or plug caps on your bike? Maybe a bad condenser? Maybe a wrong or damaged antenna? Do you have the same problem with the engine off? I have no discernible bike noise in my radio. In the mornings and when away from the main highways, the background noise can often be cut with a squelch setting of 3 or 4. Of course, when the general traffic is running high or the skip is bad, any radio will take more squelch to cut the background noise that is not intelligible. 3-5 mile range is very common, often more depending on the conditions of the terrain and radio traffic. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    No, you are not missing anything - it just sounds like you were confused by people who think it is normal to have your carbs go out of sync at different RPMs. It is not. Bottom line is that if there is nothing wrong with your bike AND you have done the carb sync correctly, they will stay in sync at all RPMs. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Easy to access the bolts if you remove the lower cowling, but not really too bad to get them off with a U-joint on your 10mm socket. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    The problem with locking a thread after some members have already posted inflammatory comments is that the very existance of those comments continues to inflame everyone who feels strongly about the subject, and they feel they must respond. So if those posts are still there, but the thread is locked, they just start new threads, spreading the problem. If we try to calm the situation by just editing the most inflammatory stuff, those people who got edited just tend to go all ape about it. We do our utmost to NOT censor or edit any posts here - that is why we try to ask members ahead of time to remember that certain subjects are not acceptable. When we see posts that are borderline, we tend to just grit our teeth and hope the members are willing to live and let live instead of attack each other - we would rather risk the escalation than censor. But when things do go south, we usually feel the best option is to remove the entire thread than make things worse by trying to decide what parts are acceptable and what are not (that becomes taking sides in the argument). There will always be disagreements, and sometimes even heated discussions. If those are around a topic dealing with our bikes or site operation, then at least we are still getting value from the multiple opinions being offered, and the tone of those discussions rarely escalates to the level it always does with politics or religion. I'm sure we do not always make the perfect decisions, but I hope y'all understand that our main focus is to simply keep the tone of our site friendly. Peace. Ride Safe, Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Most folks here know this, but maybe a few new members have missed it. While there are many many sites on the web where political discussions are welcome, and even encouraged, this is not one of them. We do not have many rules, but no politics and no religious discussions are important. We have found that these types of threads inevitably lead to unpleasantness and negatively affect the overall feel of our forums. I have just deleted a thread that was purely a political discussion. The deletion had nothing to do with agreement or disagreement about anything that was said, just that we do not allow political discussions. Thanx for listening. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    No, that is not what I am saying. All RSV and modern RSTD shocks are interchangeable. Personally, I would not spend even $10 on any used Yamahaha shock for these bikes unless I was just trying to fix it to sell quick - just too many failures with that junk part for me to take the risk - and that goes double for one that is over 10 years old! But it will fit if that is what you want to do. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    The shocks on all ALL RSVs are the same*, and also are the same as the shocks on all RSTDs from 2005 on. Other Royal Star models prior to 2000 are different. * In 2005 Yamahaha made some slight changes to the rear shock in an attempt to solve the many failures (didn't help), but those newer shocks fit all bikes. In fact, if buying a replacement shock, that is the only Yamahaha junk shock you should use. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    I have no idea why the seller would have to transport anything for you (as long as the bike runs). That new tire/wheel combo will sit perfectly where the passenger normally sits. If your schedule can fit, just plan on coming to the annual maintenance day/carnival in Oberlin, Ohio the first weekend of June - we'll get you completely checked out and fixed up for the ride home. And I'm sure you can find someone to ride with you at least part of the trip back. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Just to make it clear to other readers of this thread, nothing in this quote applies at all to a 2nd gen . On our bikes, all four carbs have the linkages mechanically connected and activated by a single cable. The throttle cable is correctly adjusted when the cables at the carb have NO slack in them. Sync should be done at idle. But I do believe that the synch should be double-checked at a higher RPM - somewhere around 3-4K. If the sync goes off at that RPM, then there is still something wrong. I have found that absolutely minor adjustments at idle can make significant changes at speed, so often this problem can be resolved simply by redoing the synch at both low and high RPM with extra care. And remember, you MUST blip the throttle after each time you even touch one of the adjustment screws - even slight pressure from the screwdriver will change the reading, so a quick blip is needed to let them all reset to the natural state. If repeated careful re-synching does not get the carbs to remain in sync at all speeds, then something else is still wrong. Often this can be caused by one or more jets being partially plugged - this is almost a certainty if your engine is not pulling over 10" Hg at 1,000 RPM. Other causes for the vacuum to be off at speed include plugged air passages in the carbs, pinholes in a diaphragm or bad O-rings under the caps. These are CV carbs, so the position of the slides (which is what is affecting the vacuum readings along with the butterfly valves) is not controlled directly by any cable or throttle linkage, but by the pressure differential of the air on both sides of the diaphragms. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    My mistake - for some reason, I thought the OP was referring to the tubes connected to the AIS induction ports, which are metal, not small rubber hoses. But I see now that Dave clearly said it was a vacuum hose for the AIS, which does get routed right there to activate the front AIS valve. With that hose off, the AIS will absolutely cause lots of afterburn every time the throttle is shut. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    I'd be happy to ride it down there for you, but you'd have to pay for my plane ticket up there, and then for another one home - not really cost effective. But it is not hard to find shipping companies that specialize in bikes. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    The mechanic that worked on you bike is a total putz! I feel really bad for you - while it is good that your dealer got this catastrophic failure covered under warranty (as they should have), The sheer incompetence of the idiots who worked on your bike does not forebode well for the future. All we can do is hope they did better INSIDE the engine than they did outside! Better keep a detailed record of all you find just in case you need to force them to pay for ANOTHER total rebuild!!!! The preponderance of evidence showing the total incompetence outside the engine will win your case in small claims court if faults are found inside the engine. I assume you have already compared that loose hose with the ones connected to the other three AIS induction ports? Tough to tell from the picture, but is does not look like the ones I normally see there (more like just a normal vacuum or vent hose). Pulling the exhaust header is simple IF you have a long ball-end Allen wrench - not much possibility to do it otherwise. No need to take anything else off to reach the header bolts if you have the right tool. If you need to completely remove the header instead of just pull it aside a bit, you will need to remove the muffler and Y-joint too - not too bad. Good luck, Goose
  25. V7Goose
    There is a tech service bulletin on this (you can find it in the tech library). In short, the drive pins in the rear wheel need to be greased. Goose
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