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bkuhr

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  1. bkuhr
    Thought I caught it before anyone noticed...oops:doh:
  2. bkuhr
    I appreaciate all replys, and in Marcarl defense, this jet does have direct path to the main fuel jet. And per Dingy, it has a direct path to the air jet above it. In between is the main needle jet passage. I am really not sure how this jet is designed to work in the scheme of things. I am thinking during engine braking (throttle closed, or nearly so, and high RPM) there is higher than normal vacum in this port, and oversized jet on fuel side allows to much fuel to be drawn in bypassing idle only circuit. (now I am just talking out loud and not really sure I know what I am talking about) Any carb experts out there? All other replies also helpful
  3. bkuhr
    In Gary's diagram, the jet I reamed out was #15 under the rubber plug. What does this jet really do?
  4. bkuhr
    83 venture, finally have all cylinders firing. Runs very good. As in previous thread, I am concerned I may have reamed out 'pilot air jet' in carbs 2 and 4. They were plugged and I run .020" stainless lock wire thru jets. When compared to good jets, .020 was too large to pass thru. Now I have serious "M2 .50 cal gun blast" out right side, only during engine braking/down shifting, as tach comes down below 3000rpm. Scared the s**t out of me, every time! If I pull clutch then brake to slow, no backfire to matter how hard I close throttle. I have read most backfire air leak in exhaust, but I can't detect one. What is the effect of my 'reamed out' pilot air jets? I also have what sounds like air leak on intake side. Kind of 'chugging sound' at idle, hardly noticable at normal cruise, pretty loud during loading like hill climbing. I suspect maybe aircleaner boot loose and air bypassing aircleaner, but could be below carbs I guess. Haven't had time to check yet. Any idea's before I get started? I'm thinking I have a carb too rich, and engine braking with throttle partially closed causes to much fuel to be pulled thru, unburnt, into exhaust. Maybe due to pilot air jet?(not sure what this REALLY does) Also thinking only idle circuit too rich as backfire only on closed throttle when main fuel circuit is closed.----Any of this make sense, or am I way off base trying to over analyzing it!
  5. bkuhr
    Only way for fuel to overflow is float needle not shutting fuel flow off. 1. damaged float needle or seat 2. dirt in float needle or seat 3. float does not float, sunk or saturated 4. float out of adjustment Could first try to blow low pressure air thru fuel intake to dislodge dirt in needle port. Same thing with seafoam soak Failure to sovle here will involve carb removal/ dissesambly again. During reassembly on bench, rig gravity fuel tank above carb, and do float level check before you put back on bike. Redo float level check when on bike with bike fuel pump pressure, before everything else hooked up. Reread tank lined. Open carb drain into clear container. Is fuel red? Tank lining may not be set and clogging float needle open.
  6. bkuhr
    Not sure if it could be done wrong, but are you installing left to right as sitting in seat? Is speedo gear properly centered and turned in fork notch? Just suggestion
  7. bkuhr
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Sunpro-2-5-8-in-8000-RPM-Super-Tach-II-black-face-black-bezel-tachometer/_/N-25x9?counter=6&filterByKeyWord=tach&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=477562_0_0_ Can you swap 'the guts' with cheap autoparts aftermarket tach? Just suggestion
  8. bkuhr

    Master Cylinder

    bkuhr replied to Monty's topic in Watering Hole

    I have one, but it is in rough shape, don't remember excatly how bad, I think level switch is corroded up, and maybe missing lid. Will look tomorrow.
  9. bkuhr
    Did simular thing few weeks ago, placed helmet on handlebar, then would not start. Took about 5 minutes to figure out had acutated emergency stop switch on handle bar. Other than this, items in ignition system include fuse, key switch,tipover switch,sidestand switch, side stand relay, neutral switch, clutch switch More involved are pickup coils/connector low left side, ignition coils/wires/resistor caps, spark plugs and defective TCI Unless absoultely sure no spark, also could be fuel issue. Have you relocated TCI to top of aircleaner? Would make troubleshooting much easier.
  10. bkuhr
    Bottom right rubber is the coolan plug, and looks like it has been seaping. Pull straight out by screwing small metric screw(dont remember what size maybe m4) into brass middle, and pull on screw. First drain coolant. I cleaned my plugs up then put light coat black RTV and put back in. Top hole is the spark plug well drain, you are correct, I do not see oil here in your pic, but run finger just below the top hole and see if light oil coating that cant be seen. Looks like drop of oil near center hole, cover bolt hole. This hole is a closed bottom hole with no oil access anywhere near. It is in a casting in the coolant passage. If there was a defect in the casting, a leak thru this hole would be coolant. The oil drop near cover bolt hole had to come from above at the spark plug well drain. Also run your finger around valve cover gasket around the spark plug well. Still think you have valve cover gasket problem, but it is not very severe. Others here state replace gasket with MK2 type gasket, as they fit easier, but leave excessive flange showing. I replaced mine with OEM MK1, but had motor on bench at the time and was very easy to get lined up.
  11. bkuhr
    Behind that cover is a rubber plug to the COOLANT area around the combustion chamber. Acts as a freeze plug. Also behind that cover is an open port from the SPARK PLUG WELL. Any liquid in spark plug well will drain behind the side cover. If you have oil coming out from the side cover, likely you have oil leak from valve covers leaking into the spark plug well. Probably need to replace valve cover gasket.
  12. bkuhr
    I got one of the first whirlpool duet sets about 8 years ago. Love them but all the plastic is starting to crack, and washer door about to fall off.(rusted hinge) When I get a new set will look for one with minimum plastic ( all metal). Recommend get pedistals with machines, Better half made me go get them after, Machines just sit too low, I just can't understand $200-300 for stamped sheetmetal pedistal, each... Found only dryer door is reversable, not washer. My plumbing service is on right hand side, and with washer on right door opened to center of washer and dryer. Reveresd machines, dryer door, and run extra long hoses so doors open to outside of both. Something to consider.
  13. bkuhr
    Got carbs hooked back up properly, startes right up and idles smooth. Boggs at about 3000rpm. Hooked up sync. Was WAYYY off. #1and #2 almost off scale and nothing even close to each other. Unsure sync off due to disassemble/reassemble rack or FINALLY all 4 cylinders running. Probably combo of both. As I brought sync back together idle kept climbing. Finally got sync matched and idle was about 2800. Brought idle back down and verified sync. Pulled sync gauges, plugged vac ports, and ZOOM ZOOM.. I need to replace cracked air cleaner purge line before I take for ride. But sounds better than ever has, and throttle response is better then it has ever been for me. Bog is gone. Little concerened about the little bit of reaming I did to the pilots jets in #2 and #4. Think I will check plugs after about 100 miles looking for too lean. I have skydoc17 needle shims in for leaning carbs. Maybe if some cylinders too lean I can try to put stock spacers back into needed lean carbs. Think I am finally getting there. Its been a chore. Thanks for all the help.
  14. bkuhr
    Took carbs back apart, and found jet in jet block completely plugged in carbs#2&4 Looking at diagrams I believe this paticular jet is called #29 jet, pilot (#42.5) on page B6 in parts manual. Best I could do to clean it out was run .020" stainless lock wire thu jet. When compaired with a good jet, .020 was just barley too big, meaning I reamed out my clogged jets just a little. Unsure at this time what this will do. Anyway, I installed carb assy on bike, without cables, without clamping boots, without aircleaner, only hooked up fuel line. Started right up, idled very smooth, all 4 pipes get hot:). Hand operated throttle, and bogs at about 3000rpm. No resync yet Now need to get everything hooked up correctly.
  15. bkuhr
    Old dwell/tach meters were designed to be hooked up to vehicles running points type ignition. They typically attached to the minus side of the coil (the points side of the coil). Depending on the impedence (internal resistance) of your tach/dwell meter, you could do damage to your electronic type ignition. If you continue along this persuit, you will need to hook up somewhere on the negative side of coil, where other side of coil has battery plus. Not sure how 2nd gen made, but could find this wire in/at your ignition box. Would not matter which peticular coil you attached to. On first gen, this coil wire (#2 coil) also feeds the dash tach, and could be accessed at rear of dash. Recommended option IMO would be to get one of the new digital tachs where a lead wire just wraps around a coil wire. FWIT:2cents:
  16. bkuhr
    heres pics I took of my fork rebuild. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49226
  17. bkuhr
    Little 2 wire plug at fuel pump bottom left Check for 12v or with test light on blue/blk wire, and ground on black wire. If good volts and ground, disconnect top fuel hose, orange in my pic, and turn power on for 1 sec, should pump fuel out, if not bad pump. If pump works, but no fuel to carbs, replace fuel hose. And drain carb bowls . If no power write back for info of all items in the fuel pump circuit that can be causing trouble.
  18. bkuhr
    Alright, carbs out... Took #2 carb apart Sprayed carb cleaner into main fuel pickup bottom of removed jet block, small piece of junk came out and sat on wall of port where needle jet port normally resides. IMO this could cause blockage in main fuel pickup, meaning no gas from this carb, but my problem of flooding from this carb would be an opposite effect not explained by this piece of junk. MAYBE:bang head:, I have confused my self (not hard to do) and my problem is in fact not flooding, as my #2 plug did not come out wet this time. Also noticed needle port jet (with end plug removed)will slide completely up the needle all the way to the slider. I had expected it to stop at some point along the needle taper. Is this normal or do I have worn needle or jet? Did simular test on good working #1 carb, and jet did same, slid all the way up the needle. Alright, HELP, what else do I need to inspect while I have carbs off? Any way to bench test carbs for fuel flow? Some kind of 'Yankee inginered' bench test rig? I have almost any kind of tool you could think of.
  19. bkuhr
    If anyone cares here are scope views of 1. coil pickups 2. ing coil primary inputs All taken from backstab at TCI
  20. bkuhr
    here are pics 1. Idle 2. sync before doing anything. Note: noticed clear vapor? pulsing in clear tubes of sync tester in only cylinders #2 and #4 3. resync, still vapor pulsing 4, spark tester at #2 5. spark tester at #2 6. removed #2 plug, did not come out soaking wet this time 7. new plug installed in #2, no change to #2 pipe temp 8. modified HF spark tester, tapped end of shaft for screw on terminal to accept MC boot cap, and place screw on terminal on MC plug to accept tester boot Thru entire time #2 and #4 exhaust pipes are still cool to touch, only warmed up to temp of engine casing, engine h20 temp up to mid scale also loaded up and hard to get over 3000 rpm Any other suggestions before I start pulling carbs?
  21. bkuhr
    I'll take pic of sync before I pull carbs tomorrow. Sync is only measurment of vacum in manifold below the butterflies. Dead cylinders still pull vacum even if they do not fire, barring other problems such as vacum leaks or valves not closing. Proper air/fuel mix typically can only be measured with some type of EGR sensor, such as dedicated test equipment or O2 sensor in cage. If I had EGR tester likely would show very rich in my dead cylinders. I do not have this type of test equipment, and had to figure out some other way to prove to myself I was dumping too much fuel as I suspected with wet plugs and no heat on pipes. I was working on a clear tube individually feeding each carb with equal amounts of fuel in each. My thinking was if a carb was too dumping fuel its fuel level in tube would drop faster that other carbs. Think I proved same thing with the shop towel. I orginally suspected spark issues, but replaced diodes in TCI, replaced coil high tension wires and resistor caps, then verified both pickups signals and coil input signals at the TCI with Osilliscope. 1 final test was with HF spark tester (modified to accept MC plugs). Spark is good. Only thing I did not verify is spark timing, but as it is not adjustable on MC I suspect ok. I may go ahead and put timing light on to verify, as I scribed TDC of all 4 cylinders on stator when I had motor apart, but I read hard to keep oil from spraying out inspection hole. FYI good resistor caps appear to read 2k-4k ohms. I had 3 that read ~, and replaced all 4. I also did a mod to get coil rack out from the top with out having to pull farings, for future maintenance of coils if ever needed. I took pics but they did not turn out. If anyone wants, while Im working on carbs I can pull coils again and take pics. Engine running on 2,3,4 cylinders still idles somewhere, then adjusted for for proper idle speed. Likely when I get all 4 cylinders running, idle will be too high and will need to be readjusted. Sync should not change when running on all 4 except for me taking rack apart and putting it back together. This will probably cause changes and require re-sync Would anybody like pics of O-scope traces for pickups and coil inputs. Maybe some of those working on IgniTech solution. I only have 1 channel scope so I can not provide timing between pickup and coil at different rpms(advance), but I thought wave forms were interesting, especially EMF spike on coils Thanks for input, feel free to correct anything I say you feel is incorrect-discussion helps us all learn, and keep suggestions coming Brian
  22. bkuhr
    Yes, but I recall putting oring on in wrong order with block gasket and having to go back and fix, maybe I forgot to fix in another carb at the time? the jet block gasket that you can't but anymore/ was it in good condition ? can still buy, and yes I did replace. Old ones came apart/destroyed on orginal disassembly the little rubber bubgs at the botton of each jet block ? did not replace, they seemed fine Next - how long have you run it since you rebuilt the carbs ? Is it possible that any jets have worked loose ? got bike new to me non-running in Oct last year, rebuilt carbs same time, have abour 200 miles on it, runs great on 2 cylinders, but can feel miss at idle and gas milage real low. Could the brass bolt in the end of the nozzle have worked loose ? Or even the screws that hold the jet block. Anything is possible, guess only way to find out is to pull carbs and seperate rack again I've a feeling that it is possible to get two of the jets the wrong way round, but I'm not 100% sure of that. Not sure what you mean here??? At the end of the day, it doesn't take that long to pull the carbs off. It takes me even less time now that I've bought some very long nosed surgical pliers from Maplins that makes reconnecting the two throttle cables easier. I agree other than I have farings on, and throttle slider box is under left fairing, hardest to get off with tuner/amp, going to see if I can get slider worked down below faring [edit] oh - and have you taken the air box off to verify that the slides are all moving okay when you blip the throttle with the engine running ? Sliders all do work together, and verified no vacum leaks with starter fluid all around boots etc...also checked for jasonm's leaking enrichers(choke) with o-scope on coil inputs, did not change rpm at all Thanks for input Brian
  23. bkuhr
    83 Venture, Cylinders #2 and #4 dead and cold to touch, even after ride. Verified good spark. Plugs come out very wet. Suspected very rich flooding cylinder preventing fire. Float fuel levels verified good. Sync perfect. MPG=25-28:(. 1/2 tank strong seafoam run thru. Carbs rebuilt by me but can't confirm I did not do something wrong. Installed skydoc17 needle shim mod. Today confirmed carbs #2 and #4 only, dumping too much fuel. At idle, placed tip of shop towel into throat against main fuel needle for just a second. Towel tip comes out wet in carbs #2 and #4 and dry in #1 and #3. Thought I could see fuel coming from jet and along needle, and confirmed with above towel method. Now I am 99.9% positive excessive fuel is preventing cylinder #2 and #4 to fire. Fuel float levels are correct, but during operation carbs dumps too much fuel out the main fuel jet, even during idle when main jet should be completely closed off. 1. What could cause this? 2. What to inspect? 3. How to repair? 4. How to pretest after repair on the bench? pics not very good but first Pic, tip of towel in throat second pic tip wet
  24. bkuhr
    http://tinyurl.com/4yt66u This link matches up, including page B6. Appears to be referring to jet in jet block in float bowl. I had these out during carb rebuild, and do not belive mine could be loose or understand how these may cause flooding, I do seem to recall an issue with o-ring #23. I had incorrectly installed on wrong side of jet, but I think mine are correct now. Maybe I'm still wrong and this is my current problem. Worst issue to pursue this... carbs MUST come out and rack seperated to get float bowl off to even look. Let me know if you persue this, if you find problem here I may have same issue Thanks, Brian
  25. bkuhr
    I'm fighting simular problem on my 83. I have verified every 'way to sunday', I do have spark on #2 and #4 (my cold to touch cylinders). My plugs in these cylinders appear wet, ie: very rich, almost to the point IMO that they may be flooded and not lighting off. Not sure yet how to verify or rectify. Also considering PO may have flipped coil wiring and spark timing is off, again have not verified yet. Been to hot to work in garage, and wife won't let bike in house:crying: Suggest pull your plugs and see if they are wet. Can provide more info how I verified spark if you want, but figured I would put in my old post once I check some more things out. I have not problem doing sync, even with dead cylinder. It still pulls vacum for the sync gages thru the butterflies. Brian
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