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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Dan, Here is your slab with some angular info on it. The 3-4-5 rule is 3 units out one leg, 4 units out perpendicular leg = 5 units from two points. I did same idea but showed the ratios at 9-12-15. This will allow you to find middle point of the two 18 foot legs (9'-0" from corner), then measure 12'-0" out from this corner on the 40 foot legs. The distance between these two points should be 15'-0". 3-4-5 is 9-12-15 multiplied by 3. Same results, just a bigger triangle that makes layout a little more accurate. Given the two diagonal measurements you posted, and the 18' & 40' side lengths, you are about 3 degrees out of square on each corner. Gary
  2. dingy
    Sounds similar to what I had this spring. Had an operation to fix it and much better now. If you can get an MRI done that will show if disc is extruded into spinal cord and pinching it. Surgery wasn't that bad, very small cut, out of hospital next day and back to desk job in three days. Went to a chiropractor and he said for $6k worth of decompression treatments he MIGHT be able to relief pain, wasn't covered by insurance. Found a good neurosurgeon and got it fixed right. Gary
  3. dingy
    You mentioned something about it being a rubber style tape measure. I had a very nice Lufken (sp) 50' tape I had had since I was on the railroad. We could only use the rubberized style tapes due to tracks being electrified in some areas. About 2 decades later, I was using this tape in a semi, laying out a conveyor system in it and found out the tape had stretched close to 8" over the years. Point is if it isn't a steel tape, verify it against a known length. This wouldn't affect your corner to corner discrepancies (by this I mean they don't match), but may cause fits if you are doing the 3-4-5 corner check. Gary
  4. dingy
    Splitting the calipers is done by at least myself & Skydoc. Earl does it as part of his rebuild on calipers. It's the only way you can hone the bores. I have done it on about 6 calipers with no problems. It isn't nearly as invasive as splitting the crankcase in half. Really nothing to it, other than the square cut o-rings are rare as chicken teeth. Pictures below may cause my warranty to be void, but what the heck. Gary
  5. dingy
    Not sure what an Anon is, but spell checker liked it. Gary
  6. dingy
    Here are a couple of search strings I use to narrow searches down. 1st one is for 1st gens, 2nd is for VMax's I would really like to know how to not see snowmobile stuff, you would think the japs would know some other english words and not have to name snowmobiles the same as motorcycles. Gary yamaha venture -gt -700 -1999 -2000 -2001 -2002 -2003 -2004 -2005 -2006 -2007 -2008 -2009 -rsv -600 -snow -star -enticer -blaster -600cc -480cc -wave -viper -vector -xenon -phazer -mountain -exciter -snow* -srx -venom -vt600 -vt480 -vt700 -sxr -carbide yamaha vmax -gt -700 -rsv -600 -snow -star -enticer -blaster -600cc -480cc -wave -viper -vector -xenon -phazer -mountain -exciter -snow* -srx -venom -vt600 -vt480 -vt700 -sxr -carbide
  7. dingy
    Found another Vmax front rim for a decent price, this one is straight unlike last one I got. The seller did cheerfully refund money & shipping, plus didn't want rim back. $8 in scrap aluminum. Little bit of shimming and get the just broke in Avon on it and it will be one step closer to being a born again VMax. This one doesn't have red stripe though. But I do have a vinyl cutter I just got from my brother in law, so I might try cutting stripes for it. Gary
  8. dingy
    Attached is the install instructions that come with progressives. Gary
  9. dingy
    Was the number of watchers in the body of the text? I think I bid on something last week that a seller had that in the listing. It's a sales ploy. Give me a PM if you need other stuff, I just looked at your feedback on ebay and I have most of the stuff I saw you bought laying around. What do you sell on Ebay, didn't look for that, your detailed feedback has fairly high as a seller? Gary
  10. dingy
    I got one for about that price from a guy on ebay a couple of years ago. When I got it I could hear a rattling in the package before I even opened it. It was the head of one of the diodes loose inside the TCI. Seller swore it ran fine before he tore bike apart. Finally got my money back, but it was a struggle. You really should open it up and look at diodes to see what condition they are in. It is an obvious problem if they are bad. They can be fixed up to a point, once they go open, it destroys the TCI. I still have an Ignitech unit available that will work if you need it. Also have a like new set of coil wires and caps avaliable. 8mm graphite core. 1 season on them. Gary
  11. dingy
    What you should do to the bike depends on how much you want to spend and how good of brakes you want. There is such a thing as to much brakes on a bike. Ask the RSV guys about the touchy rear brake that have, Rick Butler makes a kit to lessen the brakes from grabbing as an example. If you really don't want delinked brakes, your quest for really good stopping ability is lessened somewhat. Get a good set of calipers on the front end of the bike. MKI calipers are barely adequate. To do this you need to, at a minimum, replace the lower outer fork tubes with a set from an MKII. Reason being is the center to center spacing of the MKI forks caliper bolts is 80mm & the MKII's are 100mm. The 100mm spacing opens up a number of possibilities. 1st step is a set of quad piston MKII calipers. Next step is a set of Yamaha R1 calipers from about year 2000-2003 (known as blue dots). If you are a real fanatic, there is a VMax guy that make an adapter that will allow a set of 6 piston Hyabusi type calipers to be mounted. (Refer to previous comment about to much braking power here). When going to these better calipers, you will also need to change the front rotors from the 298mm rotors to the 282mm ones. Get stainless steel brake lines. Not real expensive and well worth the money. New set can be gotten with 4 lines for under a $100. If you have rotors off, get them glass beaded if possible (similar to sand blasting). This will remove any glazing that is on them. Get a decent set of pads. With delinked brakes EBC HH pads are your best option. Not my preferred ones but will help with the linked brakes. They are a harder composition than I like. They are harsh on rotors. Get rid of the hydraulic anti dives if you have them, about as useful as tits on a boar, especially if you have progressive springs in bike. Contact Earl (skydoc_17) for both these items if nothing else. If you don't go with SS lines, at least get a line from the rear to the front that has the upper bleeder in it, it will make bleeding the linked brakes a little easier. (I have one off an 88 if interested) Rear brake can be upgraded to an MKII with quad piston caliper and 320mm floating rotor. This takes a little McGyvering to do. Rebuilding both masters is probably due on an 84. Consider using DOT 4 synthetic fluid. Easier on paint if spilled and better temp range. Depending if you like red or not, I have a set of 3 MKII calipers that were rebuilt last year. Powder coated red is downside. Good Kevlar EE pads in them. Also have rear rotor for the MKII setup. and if you want it, I will take the MKII rear master off my bike. I just got a brand new MKI master for rear, which will help my particular setup due to master caliper diameter. It was also rebuilt last year. The MKII master is better for linked brakes if they are upgraded to the quad piston calipers. Also have the rear caliper brake arm, which has been modified to work on an MKI. Have a SS line for the rear. Gary
  12. dingy
    I doubt you are going to be so lucky to have the bolts stripped, steel bolts vs aluminum casting. Some times an air impact with a impact 6 point sockets will persuade a bolt out. The hammering action of the impact helps break corrosion. Sometimes it doesn't help though. Gary
  13. dingy
    After being married for thirty years, a wife asked her husband to describe her. He looked at her slowly then said, "You're A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K." She asks..... "What does that mean?" He said, "Adorable, Beautiful, Cute, Delightful, Elegant, Foxy, Gorgeous, Hot. She smiled happily and said, "Oh, that's so lovely. What about I, J, K?" He said, "I'm Just Kidding!" His left eye is still swollen, but the doctor has informed him that he is likely to see things much clearer in the future.
  14. dingy
    I would take minor issue with the statement that wheel bearings are not toleranced very close. I was tooling & gauging engineer at a former GM wheel bearing mfg. in Sandusky Oh. The processes that were used to produce these bearings was extremely tight. The bearings went through many heat treatments and machining was a three step process of turning, grinding then honing. The ball bearings where measured so that all in a given bearing where within 1 micron. One of the gauges I remember working on had a tolerance of +/-.00005". Granted, the wheel bearings are a tapered roller bearing in the bike wheels, but they will be built with the same precision. Gary
  15. dingy
    Plenty of tire width on an RSV with a stock tire considering the power output. It ain't a VMax. If you can't spin it much, it's wide enough, so few people have felt the need to push the envelope. Gary
  16. dingy
    My guess is if you ran that pump constantly it would die quickly. Gary
  17. dingy
    Dan, This is an approximation of your slab, I can't be exact without real good angle measurements on a corner or two, but this will give you an idea where you are at with slab squareness. I assumed 40' sides were parallel to get this. Couldn't get 2nd 40' side to work out with out more info. But it is close. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Yammer.jpg
  18. dingy
    It is a fuel passage cleaning additive, also can be used in oil sparingly before a change. Get it at walmart & auto parts stores. Red & white can, about 12 oz size. $8 on average seems like. It really does help in some cases, but has been known to foul plugs. About half a can in tank, run it hard then let set overnight or so then run it hard some more. Gary
  19. dingy
    I gotta agree with Randy that using moly grease is of little value on the rear hub drive pins. This contact area is fairly fixed mate, zero rotational or sliding forces. The stress on this junction comes from the size difference from the pin to the hole. The clicking that has been discussed often here is likely the result of a few thousands of an inch difference which allows connection to move slightly, rotated about the axle center line. The grease added likely acts as a filler reducing movement and dulling the perceived noise. Peanut butter would probably work here. On the other hand though, the rear drive unit is an extremely harsh environment where a quality oil of ones choosing is needed. This is not the place to use the Auto Zone or Harbor Freight house brands. Granted, with the big names, some of that money is marketing costs, but there is also many good chemists and a R&D program factored in there. That brings me to the point of why add something else, like moly, to a quality product. I have no idea if this will do any harm, I doubt it, but is probably much more of a feel good thing rather than a tangible benefit. Gary
  20. dingy
    What are you basing the preference of the linked brakes to the delinked brakes on? Have you rode a 1st gen Venture with delinked brakes? I have very good condition, delinked brakes on my 83, they are an MKII size front rotors (298mm), quad piston R1 calipers from a 2001 donor (MKII forks). The rear is a 298mm MKII front rotor with a VMax dual piston caliper. I had the opportunity to ride an MKII Venture a couple of weeks ago with standard, linked brakes on it. The difference was beyond amazing. The standard brake setup has nowhere near the stopping power of the delinked system, in my opinion. The majority of a bikes stopping power is in the front end, at least 60%. Again, in my opinion, I am able to control the bike with primarily front brake application. If I am out riding on twisty roads and need any deceleration beyond engine braking, I will only use front brakes. My usage of rear brakes is very minimal. I will use them on hard, straight line stops where extra braking is needed, but am an avid engine braking user. Also use them somewhat in stop & go traffic. I am not a fan of the linked brake system for one major reason. With the linked brakes, you are always forced to use the front end braking of the bike. There are a couple of situations where front braking is not desired, even when coupled with the rear. 1st would be intersections during wet weather, the oil deposited at these intersections is very slick. 2nd is on any type of loose road surface, gravel or dirt mainly. With either of these conditions use of front brake can cause loss of tire grip and can put a rider down with no chance of recovery. With delinked brakes, you can use only the rear brake which will allow more control of the bike. This is not saying a rear wheel slid is harmless, but it can be recovered from far easier than a front wheel slide. I have been riding stuff with 2 wheels for nearly 50 years now and the two Ventures are the only bikes I have had with a linked system. 1st one, I did not have knowledge of delinking, this one is delinked and I am able to control bike much better. These 2 Venture have been my only foray into this style bike. Last one before Ventures was a Yamaha XS1100, which was a fairly high performance bike. There have been a bunch of 750 bikes of several models. What this implies is, I have a fair amount of experience with some decent running bikes and how they normally handle. With all the above typing though, I am not sure if the linked bike may not be a better option for someone that may be more of a touring type rider. That is certainly up to the individual and how comfortable they are. The delinked front brakes with good pads are more than capable of being locked up in a panic situation, they do require feathering application for safe usage. This is something that you may learn from watching a video or taking a riding course, but when something bad happens in front of you, there is no time for thought, it is just experience that kicks in and makes the difference. Gary
  21. dingy
    37.22 MPG this weekend on the VentureMax, over about 132 miles. 92 octane Sunoco. Somewhat twisty roads, but very little town type stuff. Not a constant speed interstate type ride at all. 98% very sensible riding. Only used that extra HP one short burst, but some moderately strong acceleration usage. Still has a ways to go. Gary
  22. dingy
    Very good Yammer, welcome to 20th century technology. Hows that new contractor working out for you. Ya know, those meth heads down the street might be more reliable than your past employees, and they probably can work long hours with little sleep, just a few extra smoke breaks. Gary
  23. dingy
    A lesson that should be taught in all schools . . And colleges.... Back in September of 2005, on the first day of school, Martha Cothren, a social studies school teacher at Robinson High School in Little Rock , did something not to be forgotten. On the first day of school, with the permission of the school superintendent, the principal and the building supervisor, she removed all of the desks out of her classroom. When the first period kids entered the room they discovered that there were no desks. 'Ms. Cothren, wheres our desks?' She replied, 'You can't have a desk until you tell me how you earn the right to sit at a desk.' They thought, 'Well, maybe it's our grades.' 'No,' she said. 'Maybe it's our behavior.' She told them, 'No, it's not even your behavior.' And so, they came and went, the first period, second period, third period. Still no desks in the classroom. By early afternoon television news crews had started gathering in Ms. Cothren's classroom to report about this crazy teacher who had taken all the desks out of her room. The final period of the day came and as the puzzled students found seats on the floor of the deskless classroom, Martha Cothren said, 'Throughout the day no one has been able to tell me just what he/she has done to earn the right to sit at the desks that are ordinarily found in this classroom. Now I am going to tell you.' Twenty-seven (27) U.S. Veterans, all in uniforms, walked into that classroom, each one carrying a school desk. The Vets began placing the school desks in rows, and then they would walk over and stand alongside the wall. By the time the last soldier had set the final desk in place those kids started to understand, perhaps for the first time in their lives, just how the right to sit at those desks had been earned.. Martha said, 'You didn't earn the right to sit at these desks. These heroes did it for you. They placed the desks here for you. Now, it's up to you to sit in them. It is your responsibility to learn, to be good students, to be good citizens. They paid the price so that you could have the freedom to get an education. Don't ever forget it.' By the way, this is a true story. And this teacher was awarded Teacher of the Year for the state of Arkansas in 2006. *************************************************************** I did check this out on Snopes and it appears to be a true story If You can read this thank a Teacher , If you can read in English, Thank a Marine. ( or other service person) Gary
  24. dingy
    Speaking of your shim tool, Have you used any of them? Any problems cracking at hex corners? As to 1st post, There isn't a different tool for the 2nd gens, Yamaha couldn't improve on the 1st gen. Gary
  25. dingy
    What is the level one should fill the front master to assuming the top of the cylinder is 'level'? Service manual for MKII & RSV does not give a level for the front. It does say rear should be 2~5mm below bottom of hole. (MKII). For fronts it says to add fluid if below minimum level. (or similar) Gary
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