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kbert777

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Everything posted by kbert777

  1. kbert777
    I went through the E2 problem for the last 25k miles. Ended up re-soldering everything, checking all lines and fittings, serviced the dryer and still had the E2 message when trying to raise the rear over 50psi. It turned out to be the physical compressor, which was worn in the inside guide sleeve. I ended up buying a used one from Pinwall Cycles from a low mileage bike, just plugged it in and haven't had a problem since... Good luck, Klaus
  2. kbert777
    Good luck with the MRI, hope they are able to confirm a diagnosis... I just had bi-lateral meniscus surgery done on Friday, because of the rehabilitation involved my surgeon did both knees at the same time. I had problems with both knees for a few years, the right one was constantly swollen, the left one would click so loud that you could hear it through the whole house. A few specialist looked at both knees over the years and could not find anything that they thought would justify any correction, I was send to pain management instead and pumped full of pain medication. After some severe back surgery a little bit more then 2 years ago, which went very well, I managed to mention these knee problems to my spine surgeon during a recent follow-up; he referred me to a buddy of his that is a knee specialist. This guy took one look at the x-rays and MRI's and said he couldn't see anything because the x-ray would not show what he suspected and the MRI's were done wrong. He ordered some new MRI's with special instructions using a knee fixture and the results showed severe damage to all meniscus surfaces. He stated that the damage was far beyond physical therapy and that I needed surgery immediately. Now, 5 days after the surgery the pain in my knees is almost completely gone, I can walk pain free with a walker. The surgery was not too bad, I walked out of the surgery center Friday afternoon by myself. A little bit of nerve pain in the left knee due to swelling, I have been burning through ice packs in rapid succession. I wish I could say the same for the sinus surgery, had the surgery three time due to chronic sinusitis, no improvement and very painful. Hang in there, hope it works out for you... Klaus
  3. kbert777
    Yeah, I thought about that myself... But here is the deal. I bought the bike with 62k miles, one owner with all the maintenance receipts, now the clock shows a little more then 78k miles. About 80% of the receipts are from the same San Bernardino shop, everything adds up well over $15k in maintenance, repairs and extras. So far I did not find any discrepancies between what was billed and what was performed. I also pulled an older set of carbs apart a while back with supposedly much lower mileage and the original bolts still in the covers and the diaphragms were almost torn to shreds. Makes sense that the diaphragms rub against inside of the lid during heavy acceleration, I guess I will pull the covers back off and take another look. Klaus
  4. kbert777
    I would like to hear some opinions on the life expectancy of 1st Gen carb diaphragms... Last week I received a set of four new ones from Sirius Consolidated in Kitchener. They appear to be really nice quality, probably on par with the stuff Yamaha sells. I had some problems getting the carbs synched right last time I tried, fairly consistent in idle, huge difference at 2000 and 3000 rpm's. Ordered new diaphragms just to have them on hand in case a problem arose. Anyway, the diaphragms were replaced about 18k miles ago when a dealer in San Bernardino county rebuilt the carburetors. I have the receipt for almost $900 in parts and labor from the PO. Imagine my surprise when I removed the covers, all four diaphragms have significant holes in them, same amount and pattern in all four. So how long are these things supposed to last??? The bike runs much better now, lot more top end power, noticed that my trusty old Mercury MotionPro must have been damaged last weekend and ended up ordering a Morgan Carbtune... Klaus
  5. kbert777
    Ok, this might be the answer to the question nobody ever asks, but here it goes anyway. My wife has always complained about the location of the rear headset connector, on the left side of the trunk. When plugging into the headset jack, the cable ultimately seems to come loose due to the upward pull on the straight connector. In the end the female socket broke out of the bracket and went intermittent. So the initial fix was to plug the intermediate cable of the headset into connector under the seat and routing the cable up next to the back rest. This solved the loose connector issue but introduce a different problem. By doing this you actually circumvent the handheld controller with the CB control and volume function. Which wasn't too bad until we invested into some nicer, modular helmets. Now the volume difference was very noticeable, I am almost deaf as it is, so turning up the master volume was the only way for me to hear the intercom. This made the wife's ears ring, as she has much better hearing left then I do. I cranked the volume on the front handlebar controller all the way up, but it was not enough to create enough bias front to rear. The ultimate solution (at least for us) can be seen in the pictures below. I bought a 5-pin DIN MIDI Extension Cable of EBay for a few $'s, you can also look for an AT Keyboard Extension Cable. I cut the cable in half as the shortest one I could find was around 6'. Then I removed the controller bracket of the trunk with four TORX screws holding it on and soldered the female extension side in parallel with the headset socket. As far as I know the cable colors are none standard, so I used a Ohm Meter to map the wires to the existing socket, which actually uses 6 wires with the shield. I insulated everything and replaced the strain relief to the grommet to include the new connector. The controller bracket was remounted and the headset intermediate cable was plugged into the new female connector and routed up the back rest. Now the wife can set her own headset volume using the volume control on the rear CB controller. I can set the bias between Satellite radio, Intercom and CB in the front and leave the volume on the handlebar controller untouched, she can set her own master volume in the rear using the rear CB controller. This should hopefully make riding more enjoyable until I have get under the knife for double knee surgery in May... Klaus
  6. kbert777
    Ok, I think it's under control. Turns out the actual compressor was weak or worn. I ordered a used, complete unit from Pinwall and just replaced the compressor, pressure to the rear shock now rises without any problems and hesitation. This was driving me nuts, hope the fix lasts for a while... Klaus
  7. kbert777
    The error code E5 refers to a controller malfunction. The trouble shooting tree in the manual is short and sweet, if the controller displays E5 after power on, replace the controller. You can download the factory service manual here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3384 The CLASS troubleshooting is in chapter 7. Hope this helps, Klaus
  8. kbert777
    Thanks for the comments, this still has me stumped. I initially suspected the controller too, even after re-soldering it might still have a bug. A while back I purchased another controller of EBay, which ended up having a whole bunch of unrelated problems, mainly some severe corrosion and delamination of the circuit board. I was able to get the controller up and running for a few minutes, even if the display is flaky and it took a few tries to get through the self test cycle. In the end the result is the same, the front will air up without any delay, the rear stalls at around 35 psi and the controller will display E2. This lets me to believe that the problem has to be the compressor or the valve block/ pressure sensor. I ended up ordering a used compressor assembly from Pinwall Cycles, supposedly of a 7k mile bike. I am also going to replace the compressor relay, while it measures fine for resistance with or without load. Sheradan brings up another great point too, the CLASS system is definitely designed to be operated with the bike on the center stand. It is not very obvious in the owner's manual, but the service manual emphasizes that the automatic set values are given for the bike on the center stand. If anybody has a know good or usable controller laying around, I would be interested in borrowing it for testing or buying it outright for a spare. More updates to come, please keep the comment coming... Klaus
  9. kbert777
    OK, I looked through the archives and couldn't find anything specific to the E2 error on the CLASS system. Here is the scenario, bike is a '89 with about 75k miles and tons of service records since new: When airing up the rear shock using the automatic setting of the CLASS, the pressure never gets above 35 psi for the rear shock. At about this range the pressure stops rising and the controller goes to E2 and cycles after 5 seconds to reset. E2 error code indicates that the controller does not detect a rise in pressure with the compressor running. The compressor runs and sounds relatively healthy, I really don't have a reference to compare. Here is what I have done so far: Re-soldered the CLASS controller, didn't find any broken solder joints, but re-soldered anyway Serviced the desiccant, found it to be pink in color, heated in the microwave until dark blue, checked the filters and replaced the O-rings in the container and lines Found the air intake filter almost disintegrated, disconnected the airlines and forced the compressor to run, replaced all the O-rings, cut a new air intake filter and re-installed Checked the valve block and pressure sensor, disconnected the air hoses and cleared the passages with the compressor Check all electrical connection, disconnected, cleaned and greased connection, checked for battery voltage at compressor Checked for pinched air hoses to the rear shock, disconnected hoses and manually inflated shock. The funny thing is that I can manually block the air fitting for the rear shock at the valve block and the pressure will rise up to 71 psi without any problems. I tried airing the rear shock up using the manual feature and if I let the compressor just run for a few seconds the pressure will ultimately begin rising. I can even get the rear shock up to 85 psi this way. But with the automatic function the pressure will not go past 35 psi with timing out into E2. Has anybody encountered this before? I know the air suspension on these bikes is touchy, but it drives me nuts. Two-up I really like running 71-75 psi in the rear, running this solo almost breaks my already damaged back. Has anybody a know good compressor and valve block laying around to verify that the problem is in this area? Thanks in advance for all your comments, Klaus
  10. kbert777
    Well, I had some email exchanges with this guy, and I have to say that his responses don't sit very well with me, meaning I would not buy a bike from him. I mentioned to him that the transmission has only 5 gears and he probably changed it, as the listing now says "revised". He has been really defensive about the 2nd gear issue, I simply asked if the transmission jumps out of 2nd gear during heavy acceleration or if the issue has been previously addressed. You would assume that he would know, as he owned the bike for 4 years, according to the listing. His response was that I basically had to believe him and that I shouldn't expect too much for the price, in a fairly rude and inappropriate manner. He ignored the suggestion to at least list the bike correctly as a XVZ1200 or even a XVZ12TK, I am also still not sure if its a Standard or a fully loaded Royale. Everybody who has ever looked for a carburetor kit from Yamaha will notice that he really does not know what's going on, $150 minus cost of a battery will buy you very few parts from the Yamaha dealer. Also, the Yamaha dealer "near his house" went out of business over 6 month ago, and they refused to work on anything over 5 years old. That and a few other things are a great turn off to me, even if he includes the deer alerts and Anti-theft U-LOCK for free... Klaus
  11. kbert777
    Well, I emailed him, he hasn't offered a phone number up yet, but is willing to show me the bike on Tuesday. He states that the bike is not the same one he sold in February, but an identical bike as he owned one and his father owned the other (don't know which is which). No comment on the 2nd gear issue, I send another email requesting clarification. I am really not in the market for another bike, but I could take a look and arrange for storage and transportation if somebody on the board is interested. Klaus
  12. kbert777
    That's just funny, here is an earlier auction from the same seller, almost looks like the same bike, just the mileage is different: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260357116390 Is it the same bike or is it a scam??? Klaus
  13. kbert777
    Quick answer is no, not without serious modifications. DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are interchangeable, all are basically Glycol based, just different boiling points and some different stabilizers. DOT 5 is silicone based, not interchangeable with any other fluid out of the above Glycol family. If you want to convert to DOT 5 you have to flush the whole system and basically replace any rubber part that has been exposed to Glycol based fluid. Only advantages of DOT 5 are that it is not hygroscopic and does not hurt painted surfaces. Disadvantage is a slightly mushy brake feel. Hope this helps, Klaus
  14. kbert777
    Thanks for all the comments, I was not aware that there is was a size difference between the left and right front calipers. I will order two seal kits for the left front caliper and see how bad the pistons are, not sure why just the left front is leaking. On a different note, a few people have converted to the R1/R6 style calipers. Are the piston sizes on these calipers different too, left to right? I would assume they are the same size due to not being linked as they are in the 1st Gen. Any ill effects after the update? Also, do the R1/R6 calipers use the same brake pad? Thanks again, Klaus
  15. kbert777
    Finally managed to change all three sets of brake pads out for EBC FA123HH's, can not believe the difference over the stock Sumitomo pads. One thing I noticed was some slight contamination of the left front pads due to brake fluid leakage, not sure if I managed to drip some fluid out of the bleeder the last time I flushed the brakes or if the piston seals actually leak. Anyway, I was looking at the parts diagram for my '89 VR (http://tinyurl.com/4kefl2) and noticed two part numbers for the caliper seal kit: Ref# 6: 1KT-W0047-00-00 and Ref# 15: 1NL-W0047-00-0, price is within a few $$$. I don't have any idea what the difference between these two kits is, maybe somebody has ran into this problem before? Thanks in advance, Klaus
  16. kbert777
    Finally go around to do some extended test runs after Rick's modification to my 1stGen seat. It's amazing how much difference it made to the comfort level of the seat. After first installing the modified seat and a short run I noticed that my seating position was way to hunched over, I moved the bottom handle bar adjustment one notch back and the stubs one notch up. Now after about 800 miles I have not had any problems with my back or thighs, an amazing transformation. Also, the wife's foot has not fallen asleep anymore, thanks to the reshaped plateau of the seat. Take this as another endorsement of Rick's craftsmanship and service, I had the seat back in a little bit more then two weeks. Klaus
  17. kbert777
    Name of Restaurant Pioneer Saloon Street Address 310 W Spring St City Goodsprings State or Province NV Website (Optional) http://www.pioneersaloon.info/index.htm Quality of Food Average Quality of Service Good Biker Friendly? (Parking, Trusted Location, Etc.) Yes Kind of Food? (Mexican, Chinese, etc.) Whatever You Cook... Alcohol Served? Yes Additional Comments Technically not a Restaurant, but it has a twist... You have to cook yourself, they provide the meat and fixings, so it depends on your skills: http://www.pioneersaloon.info/bbq_grilling/bbq_grilling.htm Great place to hang out and talk to people, popular spot for bikers and Exotic Car guys, fun ride out if it's not too hot, about 35 miles SW of Las Vegas of I-15.
  18. kbert777
    Name of Restaurant Mt. Charleston Lodge Street Address 1200 Old Park Road City Las Vegas State or Province NV Website (Optional) http://www.mtcharlestonlodge.com/ Quality of Food Good Quality of Service Good Biker Friendly? (Parking, Trusted Location, Etc.) Yes Kind of Food? (Mexican, Chinese, etc.) American, Bar Food Alcohol Served? Yes Additional Comments In Kyle Canyon on the way to Mount Charleston, about 35 miles NW of Las Vegas. Beautiful Mountain Scenery, great morning ride, perfect spot for the early morning Bloody Mary and breakfast. Usually very crowded in the Summer months, might be inaccessible in the Winter time.
  19. kbert777
    Name of Restaurant Bonnie Springs Old Nevada Street Address 1 Gunfighter Lane City Blue Diamond State or Province NV Website (Optional) http://www.bonniesprings.com/restaurant.html Quality of Food Good Quality of Service Good Biker Friendly? (Parking, Trusted Location, Etc.) Yes Kind of Food? (Mexican, Chinese, etc.) American, Bar Food Alcohol Served? Yes Additional Comments Just outside the Red Rock Loop on the extension of Charleston BLVD, a few miles West of Las Vegas. Replica Ghost Town with family activities, busy on the weekends. Great atmosphere in the restaurant, service sometimes slow, prices are reasonable or acceptable. Great spot to end a nice Death Valley Ride on the way back to Las Vegas.
  20. kbert777
    Name of Restaurant Four Kegs Sports Bar Street Address 276 N. Jones Blvd City Las Vegas State or Province NV Website (Optional) http://www.fourkegs.com/index.html Quality of Food Great Quality of Service Great Biker Friendly? (Parking, Trusted Location, Etc.) Yes Kind of Food? (Mexican, Chinese, etc.) Bar Food, Pizza, Stromboli, Sandwiches Alcohol Served? Yes Additional Comments World Famous Stromboli's, Coldest Beer in Town, featured in several TV shows, great atmosphere, great service. Usually crowded in the evenings, prices are very reasonable and it's far of the Strip...
  21. kbert777
    The filter is very common and available at any NAPA store. The Club Cadet Number KH2505025 converts into a NAPA Gold 1056, identical to the original filter as it is made by WIX. Hope this helps, Klaus
  22. kbert777
    I got a settlement of around $3750 for repairs to my '89 when a drunk driver went through the garage door. By then the bike had around $70k miles on it and it did not total, I retained clear title. Trick was to show the adjuster the receipts the original owner had collected since new, I am the second owner, for over $12000 in maintenance, repair and upgrades since new, a folder about 4" thick. The insurance company was American Family, they just wrote a check and ask me to call them if I would have any trouble getting the bike repaired for the money. Klaus
  23. kbert777
    Not all NAPA counter personnel is qualified... Anyway, the full part number is THM156, like every other thermostat in the regular line.
  24. kbert777
    Hi Sonny, not too many of us in Las Vegas as far as I know. There is Scott (tooldood), Ron (kantornado) and me, Klaus (kbert777). I am pretty sure we can get together while you are here, I am going to be out of the country until November 4th, so maybe one of the other guys will step in and make some arrangements. For local info you have to be a little bit more specific. As locals we usually avoid the Strip and all the touristy stuff as much as we can, while Ron actually works for a casino. Klaus
  25. kbert777
    Funny quiz, FJR1300 for me... Just discussed that with some friends last week. What would I replace my trusty '89 VR with, if I had to? Definitely not a Harley of any kind, don't like the 2nd Gen Venture, don't put enough miles on to justify a BMW, always had good luck with Yamaha's, love the FJR1300, that's probably my next bike for touring, might add a new V-Max to tool around town... Klaus
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