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kbert777

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Everything posted by kbert777

  1. kbert777
    That's what I figured, I guess I am just too lazy right now to rebuilt the original ones anyway. Also for the price for the R6 calipers, it's even hard to buy all the seals. Now I just need to find a reliable source for stainless lines, I tried a few and it's either back ordered or no longer available. Any leads? Klaus
  2. kbert777
    Yes, funny thing is that is worked and has been in there for at least the 20k miles I put on the bike since I owned it. Always had a few problems getting the idle right and gas mileage never went over 33-35mpg, let's see of the Ignitech unit makes any difference. Actually, that's the first connector I checked and I was amazed how bad it looked. Everything ohmed out OK and I cleaned a lot of connectors in the process, everything is nice and clean and filled with dielectric grease, The more I look at it, I might add an override switch for the run switch and side stand switch, just for diagnostic purposes, maybe just a push button. Klaus
  3. kbert777
    Noticed that my right front brake caliper is leaking, so to make things easy I bought a set of low mileage R6 calipers of EBay. After reading all the threads about conversions I am not completely sure if just the caliper upgrade improves the brake performance. I was not planning on de-linking the brakes, I kind of like the feature and use the pedal as primary brake quiet often. So, what is different about the calipers? Area of brake pad and/or piston size? Any recommendations for brake pads, any particular compound? Thanks in advance, Klaus
  4. kbert777
    Thanks Guys for all the responses, looks like my problem is the TCI, I also found a bunch of pretty dirty connectors. Ended up cleaning the connectors and packing them with dielectric grease. Ultimately I bought an Ignitech Kit from Gary, probably going to run it so that in case of emergency I can still plug in the original TCI and boost sensor. Pretty busy at work right now and I still plan on replacing the fuse box. Going to be a while until bike is back up and running again, probably going to start reassembly next week. Klaus
  5. kbert777
    I think I am pretty much screwed with the original TCI. I removed it from the stock location, checked the connectors, pickup coils and ignition coils. Everything was within specs. The spark plugs are new, the wires and caps less the 1000 miles in. I opened the TCI and it has some heat damage to one of the output transistors, also the diodes are the failure prone blue ones. Problem is that my spare TCI has a different number. The old one is TID13-43 1FK-09 0711 (yellow sticker), the spare one is TID14-34 41R-09 0204 (blue sticker). I can not find any reliable information what year the spare on fits, so I am hesitant to even plug it in. I PMed Garry to see if he has an extra Ignitech unit available, in case that does not work out, does anybody have a known good on suitable for an '89 he is willing to sell? I am taking the down time to finally fix the fuse box issue, also have a really weak front brake, still would like to get some riding in before it gets too hot around here. Thanks in advance, Klaus
  6. kbert777
    If you are going through Las Vegas, I would advise staying a night in one for the Valley of Fire campgrounds, about 30 miles East of Las Vegas, a few miles of I-15 on the way to St George and Cedar City, UT. Another nice option would be the BLM campground in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, a few miles West of Las Vegas on the way to Blue Diamond, NV. Unfortunately it is closed from 05/28 - 08/30/13, not sure what the reason is. There are really no nice places for dry camping on the way from Las Vegas to Kingman, AZ to get to I40 or RT66, I guess you could spend a night at the shores of Lake Mead, but I am not sure which spots are open for camping, they also started to charge horrendous fees a few years ago. Hope this helps, let me know if you need any more details when you firm up your route. Klaus
  7. kbert777
    Thanks for all the comments, living in Las Vegas, moisture is usually not a problem around here. Right now it's 100 deg and about 10% humidity. I pulled my spare TCI and it has a different number then the one listed in the manual. What years are interchangeable and does anybody have a list of the corresponding Hitachi numbers? I am almost tempted to buy a brand new one, but I would have to assume that most of the replacements have been sitting on the shelf for a long time, cheapest I found is around $500. I know there is the Ignitech options, but I don't know if it's worth playing around with. Klaus
  8. kbert777
    I kind of thougt that it's TCI related; is this something a diode replacement would cure or is it past that point? I have a spare I have never tested, will see tomorrow if this fixes it. Klaus
  9. kbert777
    Maybe somebody can help me troubleshoot this, before I tear the whole bike apart. 89 1stGen with about 75k miles, pretty much stock. Was sitting for about a year (due surgery and work load), had fuel stabilizer in tank. Flushed carbs, changed oil and spark plugs, checked air filter and went for a nice 200 mile ride this morning. Bike was running OK, little bit of an engine vibration, wanted to run a few tanks of gas through before adjusting carbs. About 130 miles into the ride I start seeing the tachometer dropping to Zero for a second or so, then it recovers, no loss in performance. After about another 20 miles the tachometer drops more frequent and for longer periods of time, now the engine stumbles and it becomes hard to maintain a steady speed. I pull over to the side of the road and idle is rough, tachometer is more at zero then anywhere else and exhaust is popping and I can hear some misfires. Made it home the last 40 miles, almost used 3/4 of a tank of fuel, bike was running best above 5000 rpm. Anybody ever been through this particular problem? At first I thought a bad spark plug, but that would not make the tachometer drop out completely? So that would leave TCI or pickup coil, maybe some bad connections or a bad coil? I have a spare TCI I never tried, maybe it's time to relocate it and check the connections... Any input welcome, thanks in advance. Klaus
  10. kbert777

    seal

    kbert777 replied to Sideoftheroad's topic in Trailer Talk

    If the seals come out without deforming them and the lip and tension ring are undamaged, you should be able to reuse the seals. A word of warning... Every HF trailer I looked at so far had metric bearings and seals, which a very uncommon and not easily available at most shops. HF sells bearings and seals as spare parts, every single time I tried they were special order, so I usually ordered some quantities as they are cheap. After measuring and cross-referencing SKF# 692373 or 11694 seals are suitable substitutes and might be available at bearing supply houses, the dimensions are 30x52x10mm. The bearings are relatively trivial part# 30205, standard 25mm shaft bearing and you might consider replacing the original Chinese stuff if you are planning a longer road trip. Klaus
  11. kbert777
    My '89 exhibited the same symptoms you described, everything checked out with the bike relatively cold, good charging voltage and current flow, checked the battery (Odyssey, a few years old, checked perfect on Interstate tester), checked all wiring and connectors and monitored R/R assembly. After about 50 miles charging voltage and current kept dropping, within 300 miles the battery was dead. I replaced the R/R with the newer style, reasoning that the OEM R/R assembly is designed for a lead acid battery and can not handle the AGM battery (which requires higher charging voltage), soldered all connections, problem was still the same. I removed the stator, which after 78k miles still measured and looked perfect, had no discolorations or burned portions, and replaced it with a new unit from Dennis Kirk. Problem is gone, charging system is perfect even after a 500 mile run with driving lights and fan in the heat the battery is still full, idle voltage is 13.8 Volts, at 2k rpm it is around 14.5 Volts. After discussing the problem with a local electric motor rebuilder they seem to think that the insulation of the stator coils degraded over the years due to being sprayed with hot oil and repeated heat cycling and that this ultimately created a condition where the coils would shorten out under heat without showing the violent results of a dead short. Then I cut the tip of my left index finger off at work and the bike has been in the garage for the last 3 month... Klaus
  12. kbert777
    I gave one number for the seals, SKF 692373, which is the current number for the old SKF 11694. Yes, this seal is a complete rubber seal, compared to the metal rim seal with rubber insert. The dimensions for fit and sealing are identical to the original seal that comes with the harborfreight trailer, the SKF seal is much higher quality and seals much better. What is the part number of the seal you installed? You said it's leaking, so I assume you simply used the wrong size, assumingly a spindle seal for a standard axle. The outer diameter of the seal you used might be close enough to fit in the hub bore, but the spindle sealing area diameter for the metric axle is much smaller then the 1" standard axle. You also might have simply overfilled the bearings with grease, which will drastically expand with heat.
  13. kbert777
    OK, I ran into this problem before on my HF trailer with 12" wheels. Both bearings and seals are metric, while most of the domestic trailers use more common standard axle layouts, which can be easily serviced. The provided bearings and seals are rather poor in quality, even by Chinese standards, therefore I decided to change bearings and seals before using the trailer on an extended trip. Sourcing the bearings was trivial, part# 30205 is not too uncommon for a 25mm shaft, most local automotive suppliers will have them in stock. The seals are a little bit more tricky. Dimensions are 30x52x10mm and after a little bit of looking around I found SKF# 692373 or 11694, which is a special order for most automotive suppliers, but easily found at bearing supply houses. I installed these parts with a high quality wheel bearing grease and haven't had any problems. I would not recommend using the grease fitting on the rear flange, as it does not distribute grease correctly and makes more of a mess then anything else. Also, the parts are available through harbor freight, in the same high, Chinese quality as the original stuff. Hope this helps, Klaus
  14. kbert777
    So far no leaks and cooling problems, that's after about 400 miles. Unfortunately, now after everything is back together, I noticed some minor seepage on the clutch slave cylinder, should have addressed that with the middle gear cover removed... I looked at Earl's fuse box kit, looks great and very complete and clean, I had something slightly different in mind, but I should cover all the bases for a standard retrofit. Klaus
  15. kbert777
    Thanks for all the comments, this should help me on my quest... Let me add that I don't have a problem with the kit Earl is offering, with a set of freshly rebuilt calipers it is a great deal. I am trying to do a few upgrades on a budget and I have pretty good access to salvage bikes and let's face it, sport bikes like the R1 and R6 usually don't end up in the hands of experienced riders... I also have access to brake hose machinery with a current DOT certification and can make hoses for personal use relatively inexpensive. After a few test runs with the bike fully loaded and the trailer behind it, the stock brakes, even with EBC HH pads, feel blissfully inadequate. Klaus
  16. kbert777
    Can somebody elaborate which calipers can be used to upgrade the front and rear calipers of a MKII Venture? Which years R1 or R6 are a direct bolt on using the same disk position and diameter. Also, which modifications need to be done to the brake hoses or which hoses are used as a replacement? Do the Ventureline chrome caliper covers fit over the updated calipers? How is the brake feel with the stock master cylinders after the caliper upgrade? Any modifications necessary to the master cylinders? What models could be used? Thanks in advance, I know it's a lot of questions, but some of you have done the upgrade and might want to share with the group. Klaus
  17. kbert777
    OK, new stator is in, all gaskets replaced, oil changed and bike is charging great. I measured 13.9V at idle and 14.3V at 2k rpm, I didn't measure the current, but the light s are brighter and bike idles better. One thing I noticed that after a short ride the wiring from the stator to the regulator and the wiring from the regulator to the battery got warm to the touch, actually the 30A fuse I inserted in the line got quiet hot. I used a bundle of three 14 gauge wires for the stator connection, which appears to be the same as the factory wiring, and two short (less then 12") 10 gauge wires from the regulator to the battery. I also noticed that the factory main fuse got warm to the touch. This might be an indication that I have to seriously work on the fuse box upgrade and clean a few things up. The overall impression of the 'Ricks Motorsport' stator is that it appears to be made quiet well. The rubber plug is a little bit undersized, the output wiring is smooth instead of braided as the original, so I guess that should make it easier to seal. The windings are not quiet as accurate in positioning as the factory stator, the insulation appears thicker then the original. Turns out that my stator was factory original and untouched, which is not bad for 77k miles. If the new one last have that long, I think it's worth the money. Overall not too bad of a job, took about 1 1/2 hours, most time was spend cleaning the old gaskets off. Klaus Klaus
  18. kbert777
    The battery was tested with a factory Interstate tester and a standard load tester, both indicated good results around 218CCA with very minimal voltage drop. I also tested the charging system with a different, standard lead acid battery and the results were also marginal for the charging components. That's a very good comment. The constant, excessive load will definitely do some damage if you leave the driving lights on constantly. I just mentioned that I used the driving lights as an extra load to monitor the charging system. With the lights on I could not get any charging voltage at any rpm, I would assume that I should have seen some drop, didn't expect a complete flat line. On a different note, has anybody found a source for some lower wattage, higher light output H3 bulbs? I remember seeing some 25 Watt bulbs a few years ago with a claimed light output of a standard 55 Watt bulb. I ordered the stator from Dennis Kirk, not the best price, but I have dealt with them before and know that the customer service is usually spot on; also ordered gaskets, O-rings and seals from Yamaha, glad the bike is due for an oil change at the same time, makes things about loosing oil when removing the covers much easier. Klaus
  19. kbert777
    Well, I really liked mraf's solution but ended up putting the regulator on top of the air box with some double-stick tape. Unfortunately it did not solve my problem, with the engine cold I can not get the voltage over 13.5 Volts. I installed the regulator with a fuse so I can use my digital meter to check the charging current and I measure about 7A with the battery fully charged at 2000 rpm. With the driving lights on the voltage falls to about 12.3 Volts and the current stays at about 7A. I rode to bike for a while and re-checked everything with the engine warmed up. This time the voltage will not go over about 12.5 Volts at any rpm. I finally disconnected the stator and measured the resistance again and while 2 combinations read close to 0.5 Ohms, one reads closer to 0.0 or 0.1 Ohms, which almost has to indicate a partial short after warm up. So I guess I am in the market for another stator. Would you guys recommend the rewound, high output stator that Buckeye Performance offers? Or go OEM ? Any other reliable sources that offer a decent product? Thanks in advance, Klaus
  20. kbert777
    Thanks Guy's, I am going to have a look tomorrow, I was considering mounting the unit on top of the air box, but might also consider relocating the TCI. Still debating if I am going to delete the connector from the stator to the regulator, might be better to do a direct solder splice to remove another failure and resistance point. Only draw back would be the lack of option to use the original regulator as a back up device, at least not very easily. Do the re-manufactured or upgraded stators come with the connector, or are you supposed to splice them? Thanks again, Klaus
  21. kbert777
    Ok, so I have the suspicion that my original regulator/rectifier bit the dust last weekend. Battery went dead after going through a almost 10 mile road construction through Death Vally going 10 mph. After that the battery was dead, voltage in idle below 9 Volts, barely 13 Volts over 2000 rpm, not enough to charge the 4 year old Odyssey. Made it home after push starting the bike, barely kept running with the radiator fan on. I checked the battery, after charging it over night, tests at 218 CCA, stated is 220 CCA, not bad for 4 years. The stator measures at 0.5 Ohms, all combination of the 3 wires, connections look good, measured AC voltage with engine running at 2000 rpm is 10.2 Volts even and equal on all three connections, no conductivity to ground. That pretty much leaves the original regulator/rectifier... I bought one of the newer style regulator in the last group buy, would like to hear about possible installation locations. The only reference I found mentions the fairing underneath the radio/cassette player. Any other, maybe better locations? I am planning on keeping the old regulator installed and disconnected (after replacing with a used/ know good one of course), simply circumventing it with new wiring. Also debating to replace the factory connector from the stator with a better splice or different connector. Any thoughts? Anything I am overlooking? Thanks in advance, Klaus
  22. kbert777
    Well, unfortunately NV has very complicated license requirements, pulling a trailer without a plate gets you a citation in a heart beat. It took me a good week just to register a Harborfreight trailer with certificate of origin, and that one came with a certified VIN plate on the tongue. There are 4 different scenarios for trailer registration without VIN plate in NV: Trailer built from materials at hand: This works for a utility trailer that clearly looks like it is built from scrap metal, I don't think you can convince the inspector in this particular case Trailer built from purchased materials: This requires fairly recent, identifiable receipts for materials and parts. You could get creative that way... Trailer was purchased "as is" from builder: I have never tried that option, but after removal of the "Coleman" plate you might be in luck if you can produce a Bill of Sale Trailer was assembled from a manufactured kit: This requires a receipt for the kit, with identifiable features who the manufacturer was. If it would be me, I would contact somebody in a more licensing friendlier state like Arizona and take a little trip, have a AZ title and VIN plate created and then transfer the title into NV with a simple VIN inspection. BTW, welcome to NV... Klaus
  23. kbert777
    Really itching to get some riding in (after missing Cody), but unfortunately still not cleared for riding after double knee surgery. Lone Pine sounds great, all lot of fun riding, unfortunately Memorial Day might not be a great choice for some people because of obvious prior engagements, as of right now I know for sure that Memorial Day and 4th July will not be available for us. Klaus
  24. kbert777
    Daniel, payment has been send via PayPal, thanks for organizing this for us. Klaus
  25. kbert777
    I am also in for 1 regulator... Klaus
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