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ahoutzer

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Everything posted by ahoutzer

  1. ahoutzer
    ediddy, you got a lemon! My '06 has been in the shop once for non-routine stuff (tires and scheduled maintenance) in just shy of 44,000 miles and 30 months. The one time was rear-end clicking that was bearings at 4,000 miles -- dealer did it under warranty and gave me my old trade-in bike back to ride while they fixed it! I did have to replace a lower cowling once, but that was a raccoon's fault. Yammy should cut losses -- theirs and yours -- and give you another RSV!
  2. ahoutzer
    The headlight bulb can be changed without removing the fairing if you have hands that are small enough and nimble enough, and if you are good at working on things that you cannot see while you are working on them. My RSV's bulb has been replaced twice this way -- once to upgrade from the stock bulb to a SilverStar and once when the SilverStar's low beam failed (after about 35,000 miles -- reasonable life in my opinion). I've done it on a trip, when I didn't want to disassemble the fairing in a Comfort Inn parking lot. Turn the wheel fully to the right and kneel by the left side of the bike, looking into the back of the fairing with a flashlight. There is a plug going to the back of the headlight bulb. The plug just pulls off. Put down the flashlight, reach in blindly (you won't be able to watch what you are doing at this point), carefully moving other wires and cables out of the way, and pull the plug off. Next there is a round rubber piece on the back of the headlight housing, surrounding the bulb. Pull that off and take it out. Next there is a spring clip holding the bulb in place. It is attached to the back of the headlight housing with a hinge, so it will not fall out. You must squeeze the ends together like a clothes pin and pull to swing the clip out. Then just pull the bulb out. Reverse the whole process to install the new bulb, being careful never to touch the glass part of the new bulb. It only goes in one way, and you have to work without seeing it. If your hands are too big or not nimble enough, find someone else to do it for you. Many women and teenagers would be better equipped to do it than big burly men with calloused and/or arthritic hands (don't have any idea whether that describes you -- just trying to be helpful). I'm a relatively thin guy with long fingers, and I can do it with only minor discomfort.
  3. ahoutzer
    Vibration will no be a problem on the Royal Star Venture (RSV). Seating position is relaxed. According to what I've seen, only the Victory Vision has more range of foot position, but I have heard that bike does have some vibration (big V-Twin). You will want to add a back rest to the RSV if you plan to do a lot of long-distance riding and are concerned about comfort. RSV is comfortable. Others have already mentioned the potential for noise. I think that is the only concern.
  4. ahoutzer
    Also make sure that your throttle moves freely. With the bike stopped and off, turn the throttle all the way and let go of it. It should return easily. If it does not, then the cruise control will sense the resistance and disengage, so check out your throttle cable adjuster to make sure that it is not twisted up and bending the cable.
  5. ahoutzer
    Solo riding, rarely see the super-slab so riding is 45-60mph, last four tanks were 48mpg. Mileage is not as good in winter -- about 42mpg. My only modification is that I have K&N air filters, but I don't know whether that affected it at all. I don't treat it like a rocket -- I cruise. Top that I ever got was 49mpg, worst was about 38 while on interstate.
  6. ahoutzer
    Get rid of the noise, push the fuel economy to at least 50 (Yammy is rating it at 42 now, so a 20% improvement), dump the cassette deck for some modern audio connectivity (built for blue-tooth headsets and GPS, cell phone, sat radio and MP3), fix the rear shock (hasn't been a problem for me yet -- 43K miles) improve electrical output (actually put on a rear jack instead of unfinished wiring, and increase output to support more accessories) and improve the design of the fairing's interior mounts -- the thin plastic that breaks so easily. Carbs vs. EFI? If that improves something or solves some problems, then do it, but all I hear is "I want EFI", like its a keep-up-with-the-Joneses buzzword feature. If EFI will improve fuel economy while maintaining performance, or if it is necessary to lower emissions to pass new pollution standards, or if EFI makes the bike better able to handle the increasing ethanol in our fuels, then switch to EFI, or if it solves the problem that some cold-country people get when they store their bikes and the carbs gum up then switch to EFI, but not just for the sake of saying "Woo-hoo, I got EFI!". Bigger engine? What for? This one is fantastic.
  7. ahoutzer
    This is from the starmotorcycles.com site, referring to the 2008 model (since Yammy never changes anything but paint on these bikes, it probably applies to the 2005 model): 79-cubic-inch (1294cc) liquid-cooled, DOHC 70-degree V-four tuned to put out class-leading power—97hp @ 6000 rpm and maximum torque at 89 ft.-lb. @ 4750 rpm—for incomparable cruising performance.
  8. ahoutzer
    Quote: Originally Posted by ahoutzer One more point to add to the question of the purpose of heating the carbs: the heaters are not on until the bike is in gear. On a cold morning, when you pull out the choke and start the bike and let it warm up at idle with the choke on for a minute while you suit up in your gear, the carb heaters are NOT on. OK, I'm only going to hedge my bets here just a little, but I think this statement is wrong. It ain't wrong. Checking this is simple -- in the Winter. With the temps cool enough to trigger the carb heaters, and with a voltmeter in place, just do what I said: start the bike and watch the meter as it warms up in neutral. Then pull the clutch and drop it into gear, and watch the voltage drop as four 15-watt heaters kick in. Then turn the carb heaters off (I've put a push-button switch on mine, mounted through the passenger foot board backing plate) and watch the voltage come back up. Operate that carb heater switch with the bike in neutral and there will be no effect. Now checking all of this in the Summer would require some further ingenuity, because the carb heaters won't come on anyway.
  9. ahoutzer
    I had unresponsive radio buttons. The problem turned out to be connectors that just needed re-seating. They were not apparently loose, but pulling them apart and re-connecting them resolved the problem. Using some dielectric grease in the connectors would be good, too. The connectors are inside the fairing. Have the shop do this for you when you get the 600 mile service done.
  10. ahoutzer
    I just ride mine. Towing is for bikes that don't work, right? Or maybe those of you in the frigid north trying to get away from the snow before putting down the two wheels. For those who possibly can: ditch the truck, ride the bike.
  11. ahoutzer
    Show up some weekend and pave a 4 ft path in their drive. That should take care of the problem. Loehring has the only really good answer. Gravel is NOT a road surface -- it is a road HAZARD! It combines the characteristics of marbles and broken glass -- making a person lose control and fall, then cutting the person to shreds. Pave it. Can you just ride through their yard, in the dirt or grass? Most anything is better than gravel.
  12. ahoutzer
    That all makes sense, given that so many have said that leveling links (which raise the rear of the bike) improve handling. Your lowering of the rear made it worse (although necessary for your height), and then counteracting that effect by bringing down the front gave a similar effect to the leveling links by correcting the angle. Now, what about the side stand? Does it now put the bike in an unstable overly-upright position?
  13. ahoutzer
    Ontario may be a bit difficult, but you could bring it over here. Just pm me so I woun't be out.
  14. ahoutzer
    Never noticed the heat. Those of you who find it to be hot: what are you wearing when you ride?
  15. ahoutzer
    No problem. I still want a Zumo. Maybe some day. Until then, the only way I could report mpg is by the bike's own readings.
  16. ahoutzer
    I would truly like to drop a grand to buy a Garmin Zumo 550 for more accurate readings, but if I can't afford one to prevent me from getting lost, then I can't afford one to make my mpg readings more accurate. The source of my figures was mentioned to provide a point of reference. I will happily accept a donation of a Zumo for my bike so that y'all won't be further bothered with my base and common inaccuracies -- and next time I'll be able to find that Boy Scout Service Center in Greenville, too! =)
  17. ahoutzer
    Rarely touching an interstate highway, mostly on 55 and some 45mph roads, I get mileage in the forties. In winter, it gets about 42, with summer around. Most of my riding is short 10- to 15-mile trips, commuting to work/church/home, etc. Several days ago, I went to Greenville (sixty miles one way) and got 49.25mpg. When I have ridden interstate highways, mileage dipped just under 40mpg. (All measurements in U.S. units and by readings as indicated on the bike's speedometer and odometer).
  18. ahoutzer
    Are you sure you're facing the front of the bike?
  19. ahoutzer
    According to other posts that I've read, if you uncover the air boxes by removing the lower fairing, and leave the air boxes un-modified, you will ram too much air down the bike's throat at speed and she will quit on you. The air box openings face forward, so removing the lower fairing will put them directly into the wind stream.
  20. ahoutzer
    I met a sudden heavy rain from Douglas to Pearson, Georgia. It was scary seeing a good four inches of water making a pretty strong cross-current across the pavement, as it flowed toward drainage. First apply prayer. Then be glad gave you the sense to put on Avons. I never felt any slippage, while throwing up a wall of water around the bike. Don't forget to give thanks after that's over.
  21. ahoutzer
    The carb heaters are on a thermostat, so that they turn on and off at certain temperatures. I don't remember what the temperature range is. One more point to add to the question of the purpose of heating the carbs: the heaters are not on until the bike is in gear. On a cold morning, when you pull out the choke and start the bike and let it warm up at idle with the choke on for a minute while you suit up in your gear, the carb heaters are NOT on. Then, when you sit on the bike and push the choke back in and put her in gear, THEN the heaters cut on -- if the temp is cold enough. This time of year, where I live, the carb heaters won't come on at all. This doesn't seem compatible with the idea that the carbs are being pre-heated for performance purposes, a la race car components. In that case, wouldn't you heat them up BEFORE putting the bike in gear, so that they would be up to temp instantly when you take off? Yet some engineer has made the effort to wire the heaters so that they are tied into a circuit that only has power when the bike is NOT warming up in neutral. You can prove this if 1) your RSV has any kind of voltmeter added to it (I have the Kury Akyn LED type) AND 2) you have cool mornings where you are -- probably in the fifties or cooler (won't see that here until late August or September). Under those conditions, just start the bike on a cool morning and watch the voltmeter while at idle. When you put it in gear while at idle, you will see the meter drop. That is due to four 15-watt carb heaters kicking on when the bike is in gear, but not in neutral.
  22. ahoutzer
    I put a switch on my carb heaters. It is a push-button switch, mounted through passenger board backing plate. I prefer to leave the carb heaters on, because there may have actually been some reason for them, but will turn them off when I need the extra power for heated clothing.
  23. ahoutzer
    No inspections in South Carolina.
  24. ahoutzer
    A mortar trowel. The handle sticks up from it while it is on the ground, so it's easy for me to pick up. While riding, it slides between the left air box and the lower fairing (2nd gen).
  25. ahoutzer
    As far as grip: it's all about tire model, tire condition and tire pressure. Don't leave on any trip with under-inflated bald-worn-out Bridgestones. I've ridden through four inches of water flowing quickly across the highway, with fully inflated Avon tyres in good condition, did some praying, and had no trouble at all. Rear brake: I never had a problem either. Recently some riders here said that they use the rear brake by lifting the entire right foot and putting it on the brake pedal, instead of leaving the heel on the floor board and just using the toes. If you use your whole foot, with the weight of your whole leg over it, then you might lock the rear brake. Don't do that. Windshield: the RSV comes stock with a tall, upright (not leaning back very much) windshield that collects rain drops. The rain just sits there, and the air flow makes even more drops hang on the inside of the shield. It's hard to see through that. Do something about it if you expect a lot of rain -- shorter shield (some have cut theirs) slippery coating (some like Rain-X and some say that it ruins the stock shield) or a different shield that leans back more (ClearView shield helps). I can stand up in the saddle a see over my shield, but don't want to do that all day. About yourself: Use rain gear over your clothing. The RSV gives very good weather protection, but you will get wet if you are out in it for a long ride.
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