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Mike G in SC

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Everything posted by Mike G in SC

  1. I bought my 2006 RSTD used. Previous owner had done the RK mod. Pipes were quiet as stock (I think). But more important, these RK pipes would drag pretty easy, especially 2-up (sorry honey). These were big diameter cans. He also had a lowering kit that was a near constant drag (or bottom out). Had to go back to stock height. A friend had taken some nice RUSH RK slash pipes off his HD. They worked great. But still had to keep stock height so they would not scrape. Oh, THEY SOUNDED GREAT,, perhaps loud for some. More of a deep roar than 4-2-4. So, wanting to do a half way lower (fabricated dog bones), I decided to go to the Barons 4-2-4. These are actually quieter than the Rush. That's okay. Pretty happy with the 4-2-4 now. I gave the Rush RK pipes and the mounts to a friend for his R*. Now he's happy too. Mike G in SC
  2. Yes, I can verify that the dummy bolts on the side covers work if you loose the shifter bolt. I was coming off the interstate yesterday. Didn't pay much attention to the clink a few miles back. Started to down shift on the ramp,,,, NO SHIFTER!! Well, actually it was there, laying next to my foot on the floor board. I stopped the bike, slid the shifter back on the shaft, kept left foot close and got to my stop. No spare bolts in the tool bag. (Had not read WHANNA's post before today.) Started looking where to steal a bolt,,,, Yep, SIDE COVER DUMMY BOLTS. Perfect fit. Got me back home just fine. The shop had to order then replacement bolt/washer,,, so not sure if it is exactly same. But it was not high dollar like some of the ones that must be solid gold inside. So,,,, yeah, they work,,,, and you have two chances! But yep, will locktite the next one. Mike G.
  3. I won't dwell on this,,, but I am probably the only one to remove my Clearview to go back to stock. I have a 2006 RSTD. I got the Clearview 19.5, recurve, with the vent,,, say, last September. Great at back road speeds. But on the interstate at 75+, around traffic, I was getting side shimmy, always. So I bumped it to 90 in traffic,, worse. Bumped it to 100, no traffic, just plain scary. You've seen those flicks where a high speed bike looses it to front oscillation, yeah, that as about it. I went back to stock,,, then took it to all those speeds, then to 110 and did not get the same problem. I emailed Clearview, John was concerned, said he would tell the boss, but I never heard back. So I am at stock. They said they've never had that complaint(?). Okay. My guess,,,, the vent is a bad idea at 80 for my bike. I think it acts like a drag shoot (the vent louvers are not at the windshield surface but 2" back (like a pocket). Honda design. Just for kicks, I tightened my steering head bearing tonight. Maybe it was loose (didn't feel like it). But I will try the Clearview again. Else,, will sell it (or trade for a new stock ?? someone got one?). But,,, you ask after your question after you have bought. Hope you don't have that problem. PS, yeah, the quality of their work is top notch,, Just,,, I had an aero problem. Mike G in SC
  4. Advance and Wal-Mart and (um? forgot), sell a kit also. The product is CV Headlight Restorer/Defogger. Comes in a foil bag with everything you need and good instructions. Their web page is www.myheadlight.com . See their video too. I have used it on 3 cars lately. STUNNING. It was on sale for about $18 One thing different with this kit. I comes with a clear coat finish that will keep it for,,,,,, well they say "lifetime". I'm not sure how they know how long I will live !!!!!!! I should call them. My before and after pics really do look like the ads. Wet sandpaper is the key to getting it there, the clear coat will make it stay that way. ( And several years ago, on my wife's Crown Vic, I spent $300 to surprise her with new lenses. This year I spent $18 on her Lincoln and still got lucky!)
  5. In your options you mentioned fuel pump. I had a fuel pump die last month. (Question: When you haven't started if for a day, do you hear it click for a few seconds when you turn key & kill switch on? If no clicks, could be faulty.) It is inside the side cover, below the seat. The filter is next to it, about mid bike. Before you pull the tank you could pull the hose from the carb input to see if it is pumping. You will probably have to pull the seat then just remove the tank bolt under the seat area to pivot the tank up, then use needle nose to pull the hose to the carbs. See if it pumps gas to a jar. If it shoots pretty good, not the pump. If it does not pump, and no clicking, pump could be bad. (unless it is blocked at tank or clogged filter.) Mine was bad. I did bypass mine with gravity feed for a week till I got a new one under warranty. Works great. To gravity feed, take the hose that goes from tank valve to the fuel filter, pull from filter (wiggle it to make sure you found it). Route this directly to the carb input. As long as you have, say over 1/4 tank, it should gravity feed. I did put a $3 filter inline for that week. If doing this, I suggest you disconnect power to the pump which is in the fuse box area. Else any remaining gas may try to pump and could toast your bike. I hate when that happens. Just a thought. Someone else may have clues on other possibilities. Mike G. Oh, Sleeperhawk, I will keep your invite in mind, thanks. Not sure of my plans that weekend yet.
  6. Robert, I live in Lugoff, SC (actually locals say "I stay at Lugoff",,, go figure, so then I tell them I'm a LooGoofian). Anyhow,,, I got the Morgan Carbtune last month. Have only used it on two Royals. Not much to it. (But I do not have a tach.) If you might be going to the Star Touring SE Star BQ in Charleston this month, (6/19 - 6/21) I am bringing it with me. Else, I'm about 90 miles south of you. If you don't find one, let me know. You could ride down if timing works. Or, I do need a trip to Frugal McDougal's (Carowins area) in the next week or so, might be in your neighborhood. Let me know if you don't find one local. My mileage has gone up 5+ but more important, my tank range has streched out 20+ That would be nice before you hit the long road. mikeginsc@bellsouth.net
  7. Just a bump. If you have a vet friend in SC, let him/her know.
  8. The South Carolina Dept of Motor Vehicles (DMV) is trying to make available a new license tag available to Honorable Discharged Veterans. They are making one available for cars and one available for motorcycles. For each, they need 400 applications received to the DMV soon. They only have about 70 MC applicants as of the end of March. If you are licensed in SC and are interested please follow the link below, then click to download the "MOTORCYCLE" form. You will send it in with $5 to "pre-apply". If they do not get the 400 they will return you money. I believe the special tag fees are lower than typical vanity tags,,, if at all. The tag is displayed on the link site, it is blue background, says VETERAN and has a star. Not the coolest looking tag out,,, but says you served. (see below) I was not in a war zone (but I did kept the Viet Cong out of Witchita!), so this tag is for me, a vet who supports others. If you cannot download the form, I can email a PDF copy to you (I went by the Hwy Dept and got one). Link: http://www.scdmvonline.com/DMVNew/default.aspx Click on the MOTORCYCLE form MV37B. http://www.scdmvonline.com/DMVNew/images/VetPlate.jpg
  9. Cougar, I got them for my R* a few years ago. Pretty sure it was the smaller size (top ones), cause I remember asking them later if I could also order the larger to put over the smaller ones. (By the way, they said no, they would fit too tight to slide one over the other.) They are tight to get on. Use dish soap,,, or compressed air. I think the RSTD (Venture too?) would have the same size stock grips as the R*. So,,,, blah,,, blah ,, to answer... Yes, top ones. Also, Bar836, sorry for the duplication,, didn't see your post to same link.
  10. You CAN put on the Kuryakyn ISO grips and do some grinding work on the stock weights (and longer bolts). This will give wider grips and still keep the weights on. My mechanic did that for my RSTD. He grinded off the tapered inner part of the weights. I think some have also tooled out the end of the grips to leave the weights as is. But a quick remedy might be "GRIP PUPPIES" from California Sport Touring. See link: http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CST&Category_Code=GRIPPUP These are foam sleeves that go over you stock grips. They add diameter and softer/easier grip. I use them for a year on my Road Star and it immediately got rid of my right hand numbness,,, PROMISE. They are darn cheap,, like $8 a pair. They will eventually wear/tear, so,, then buy again. They sell two sizes, so check your stock grip diameter.
  11. Yeah, I'm curious too. I have a 2006 RSTD, bought in 9/07. The summer before I got it, I had test rode a Venture from the Yamaha truck in Chattanooga (Star Days 07). It was about 1 PM, 92F and very humid after a rainy morning. In city traffic and on the "back" roads they took us,,, I was cooking. (I owned a R* then.) Seemed like all the heat and humidity hung in the rider area. I expected it at slow speeds but getting up to hwy speed did not disperse it. As I didn't know the bike, I couldn't find the A/C button (or at least air vents on the stock bike). That was a 20 minute ride. I jumped off that to ride a Strat on the next group (same temp & such), and it was way more tolerable. I don't suffer the same on my RSTD. I might want to get a Venture later. So,,, me too? Oh, on my RSTD, I do have the lower vents (they do fit the Venture too). They are great in the cooler seasons to keep your foot/leg area warm (and dry in minor rain). For hot days, you can pivot them open. Problem there is if you turn them in-board towards the engine, that heat will be pushed out to your lower legs, increasing the heat effect. I usually turn mine mostly parallel with the bike (but very slight in-board). This will direct more fresh road air past your legs. They are a "worth buying" addition. But, they do not have much affect on upper torso air.
  12. With the mirror on a stick,,,, use a small flashlight to bounce off the mirror to the window. Unless it's bright sunlight,,,, it helps.
  13. I've done a fair amount of BR Parkway riding. (To me, best road in this part of the world.) I'd suggest catching the Parkway and heading South of Asheville. The 100 mile vistas are plentiful below Ashville. North of Asheville is a lot of overgrowth at the overlooks. Also, about 5 miles above Asheville the Parkway is closed for repairs (unless it has just lately opened). As of two weeks ago, you had to go 20 miles around to get back to Mt Mitchell. (check locally or Google for info.) Back to South,,,, 15 miles south is the Pisgah Inn. Great lunch with a view. Ride south, take in several overlooks (mostly towards east/left). Depends on how far you want to go,,, cause you have to come back. Cherokee is about 75 miles, that would take about 3 hours. You can turn on Hwy 276 to Brevard. That is a great road with some scenic waterfalls. Brevard is a nice visit too, find lunch somewhere downtown. Then take 64E back to Hendersonville. There is a great 50's style burger shop downtown, don't remember the name,, just ask anyone. Hendersonville is GREAT too. Or you can go further on the parkway, take Hwy 215 to get back to 64. That road is 20 miles of twisties but safe. If you do want to go to Mt Mitchell, take Hwy 9 north from Bat Cave, catch I-40 East for an exit, get off at Hwy 70 to catch Hwy 80 to the Parkway. 80 IS AWESOME!! It's a dragon that few know about. This puts you on the Parkway a few miles east of Mt Mitchell. Yes Mt Mitchell is a neat visit with a decent restaurant. Stop at Linville Falls for a dramatic waterfall, expect it to take one hour, but the walk is easy. If you want to ride north towards Boone & Spruce pine, it's a nice ride too but, except for riding the viaduct below Mt Mitchell, not as eventful. If you get to that area, visit the original 1895 Mast General Store in Valle Crucis (or visit any Mast General Store (Hendersonville) for a treat. ENJOY THAT AREA, I DO!! Mike Griswold (Mike G in SC) Starrider #124, Columbia, SC PS: Ummmm, you picked a busy tourist weekend, keep that in mind if you visit tourist stuff in that area. The parkway is a delight on weekdays,, but tourist times can turn into a conveyer belt.
  14. My fuel pump came in, the shop replaced it under warranty. I had them replace the fuel filter too as I have 54k on it. Runs just fine,,,,, a lot like gravity feed!
  15. The Barons relocation kit has two main features. 1) Caliper relocation kit, to move the caliper out of the fender area. $$$ 2) Different "dog bones" to actually lower the bike. $$ The Caliper relocation can stay where it is, unless you are wanting to sell the kit. A secondary advantage it has is, at the rotated 4 o'clock position, you can view and replace your rear pads with out much effort. It does no harm staying on if you go back to stock height. The dog bones (2) would be replaced with the originals,,,, if you have them. Regardless of logic, they are actually about 3/4" SHORTER than the Barons dog bones. I sat down and figured it out once but my mind hates negative logic. I had a local fab shop manufacture a pair exactly half way between the two lengths. I got mine just where I want it,,,, finally. Someone does sell what they call "Leveling links",,, this is simply shorter dog bones which will actually raise you bike in the rear 1" above stock. If you do not have the stock dog bones, then, with you height, they maybe just what YOU want. Again, removing the caliper relocation parts is not needed. But if do, you may be able to sell the kit, it sells new for $190 or so. Regarding the front. I would check it's height against someone who knows they are still stock height. They could be lowered up to 1 1/2" either with or without "parts". Most people who drop them just loosen and drop. If they lowered the rear,,, 50/50 if they did the front.
  16. My fuel pump died last week (2006 RSTD 53k miles). Will be replaced under warranty. But while I wait,,, I got to ride. Yes you can bypass the filter/pump and gravity feed, and do this in 15 minutes. So, pull the seat, pull the line going from tank to the fuel filter, and relocate it to the carburetor input. I did have to remove the seat tank bolt to be able to lift the tank enough to get a needle nose on the clamp to the carb line. With this, I did disconnect power to the fuel pump, as it was trying to spit some remaining fuel. I also spent $5 and put an in-line filter, 3" hose and two clamps. I put it right off the petcock. When the shop replaces it this week, they can just put it back together seeing how I didn't do any chop work. Be sure you don't have loose gas dripping from any unhooked hoses. So you know, the fuel pump & filter are NOT under the tank, found that out. The pump is in the left side cover by the fuse box, it's electrical plug is right under the fuse box. And the filter is just in front of the battery. I've been riding it on gravity feed for a few days now, and yes, keeping the fuel level above 1/4 tank. I don't think I would know the difference. PS: the shop said Yamaha sells this Mitsubishi part for $250,,, thanks for the 5 year warranty. It's really nice to know you can do this in a pinch. Next time you pull the seat you may want to look at the hoses, wiggle the one from the tank so you know where it is. Then if you are out in the boonies, with just regular tools you can drive off with out the pump.
  17. I have the recurve. I do see double refraction around the recurve area. Nothing serious but it goes away if I lower my head. Is your's recurved? Mike G in SC
  18. I wear glasses, and sport a Shoei Multitech flip helmet (if it's wet or cold). But, I found out right away that I still have to remove my glasses to put on it (or off). But, you can flip it up/down with out taking them off. Same for other flips. But,,, only my half helmet allows me to leave my glasses on my face to put on or off. Mike G in SC
  19. Regarding front lowering on the RSTD (2006): I had mine lowered yesterday. Correct, you can not lower the RSTD as much as the Venture. Before you try, look at the distance between the top of the air tubes and the bottom of the handlebars. that is about 1/2". If you do a little trimming on the stock washers that hold the handle bar (drill out the hole on the large bottom washer so it can be used on the top, and then the original top washer to the bottom nut) you can go 1/2". If you do no customizing, you can only get a about 1/4", if you modify the washers you can get the 1/2",,,, less just a little gap. We were disappointed when we could not go the 7/8" as noted on the Ventures. I believe the stock Venture bars must bend up from the triple tree sooner than the RSTD bars, thus giving the Venture plenty of room for the adjustment. Just the same, you can feel some difference with the 1/2". Just labor. It is worth it, for the ride. I don't know if the kit can get the 7/8", but I will stop at 1/2". We also tightened the bearings while there to get out some of the free turn it has gotten over the last 44K miles. Mike G in SC 11/08
  20. I bought a BOSS BAGS #33 at Myrtle Beach bike week last October. The bag was $125. it is a high end product. I had them install it for $10 more. I got a deal on that. But once I told them they can remove the windshield, all went well. Took them about 30 minutes. They did not have to modify the windshield. They took the bolts out and mounted it. They did have to put a couple of extra holes in the bag, that you don't see. They were able to use the original bolts. The bag is very high quality. It does have leather (or vinyl) on the front instead of cheap looking felt or what ever the China bags use. I get a lot of complements on it. (My only issue is that I'm thinking about a Clearview Windshield with a vent. The vent location may conflict with the bag.) See bag: #33 http://www.bossbags.com/windshield%20pouchs.html Mike G in SC
  21. Pretty sure it's Silverstar H4ST. $20 at Autozone and others. I had to replace one a couple of weeks ago. Mike G in SC
  22. I live in Lugoff (SC), we got a full blanket of 1/2" to 1" hail, pounded for about 10 minutes. Watched it from my carport,,,, WOW! But, no serious damage. I did ride through downtown Elgin today (where I work). Saw the damage but I was expecting worse. One of my fellow Starriders said his neighbors house was pounded, he got some roof damage. Mike G in SC
  23. Craig, If you buy it, just prove to your local dealer it's yours. They will go online to Yamaha and change the warranty ownership info. Mine did it while I waited, did not charge me (but I have a great dealer in Sumter SC). Mike G in SC
  24. I had a couple of sets of Metzler 880 on my Roadstar,,, soooooo much better than the OEM Brigstones. I used the wider rear last time but didn't like the wide contact wear patch after 10k (increased effort in slow turns). But I did witness one come apart (entire ring of rubber) on a Valkyrie last weekend. I had presented them with a Guardian Bell that morning, whew, safe! (It was less than a year old,,, but I figure it was under inflated for some time.) I have the Avon Venoms (MT90B16 front / 150/90B15 rear) on my RSTD. The previous owner put them on, got 17k on rear but will replace both next week as the front is loosing air,,, and all this handling hype makes me want to start fresh front and back! Mike G in SC
  25. I have the same setup as Tom. Deflecters and Kuryakyn offset ISO pegs. The pegs were no problem with the deflecters, just had to put the clamp just below the deflecter, but okay. Bigger problem I had (shorter legs I guess) was that my pegs are towards rear and up. Took a few tries to get it where my left foot was not wedging. But just Fine now. Mike G in SC
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