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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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I am in the process of installing cruise control on my 1983 Venture Standard. I have purchased almost all of the items I need to do this upgrade from ebay. Prior to installing the parts, I will be disassembling the ones that I can and cleaning them. I have made the following write up of the process of cleaning the throttle side switch housing that came off of a 1988 Venture. The pictures show the switch completely removed from the bike. It is fairly lengthy, 41 pictures, but thorough. I would recommend removing switch from bike if you perform this cleaning. There are a number of small springs and ball detents that are very easy to lose unless you have a large well lit working area. If you are unable to open the PDF file, PM me with your email address and I will send it to you. Let me know if you find this helpful, as I also have the left side controls, brake and clutch switches I can do. Picture below is of the switch detailed in this PDF file. Gary -
In the last couple of weeks I have been getting an intermittant warning light on the computer display telling me that there is a problem with my headlight (?high beam?). When I switch to low beam the indicator goes out, once I turn the high beam on it comes back (sometimes with a delay, sometimes with the flick of the switch). The headlight is actually on for both high and low beam. It seems that the longer I ride the warning will become less intermittantant and eventually remains off. Any ideas??? I'm thinking lose ground somewhere or the "?reserve headlight unit?". As mentioned the headlight remains on the entire time so my thought process would be somewhere in the sensor circuitry. Advise please......I hate little red warning lights -
Need help with RSV wiring schematic
dingy posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I am near completion on the RSV wiring schematic. I have a number of questions about it that I am unable to check since I do not have A RSV. What I need is someone that can look at a wiring harness on or off of bike and check these. They are listed below. If it would help I could email anyone interested in helping a copy of schematic. I would like to get as many of these questions resolved prior to posting finished version. There may be a prize for most needed answers #1 Rear speakers only show 2 wires, if stereo rear speakers should be 4 Answered by YamaHamer 10/23/09 #2 two of six wires from MCU to front radio remote go thru connector D, why just 2 #3 Is carb heart ground shown correct or do grounds all connect to Carb ground connector. #4 Wire colors into fan noise filter conflict between what connectors indicate & indicated wire color. #5 Rear Aux outlet positive wire color to fuse, Br/R or Br/B, wire has each on opposite ends #6 Is Y/W wire color correct in rear brake switch, incoming cable shows Y/L #7 Color of wire inside handle bar control from Cruise Control Switch to Hazard Switch, not marked on schematic #8 Is Y/B wire correct color in clutch switch, incoming cable shows Y/W Answered by BuddyRich 10/23/09 #9 Is W wire correct color in PTT switch, incoming cable shows W/L #10 PTT circuit problem….Harness connector legend does not show a W or a W/L wire going thru it, PTT circuit is indicated as going thru this connector though. MCU diagram indicates it is W/Y at connector but on other ends, indicates W/L at MCU and at push button it shows being a W, on cable going into push button it is W/L. Only one wire on schematic is W/Y, from MCU to Front Control & this does not indicate going thru D connector #11 Is L/B wire correct color in dimmer switch, incoming cable shows R/Y #12 Wire connector E, can’t locate Br/W terminal, only logical place is in wire from flasher relay to turn signal switch #13 Wire connector D, can’t locate Y/R terminal, only Y/R at 2 places 1st out of cruise control relay, 2nd from flasher relay to turn signal switch. . -
I just had complete turn signal failure after pulling both fairings off my bike. Trying to make sense of the poor quality black and white schematics in the manual, with the numberized components made me crazy flipping back and forth between pages. So I brought it into photoshop and colored the wires. It helped. I found the trouble was a brown wire on the harness that goes to the hazard switch had been pulled out of its plastic connector and did not not make contact when i plugged the quick disconnect back together. Thus it was if I left the switch between "hazard" and "off" positions. The terminal had some beginning oxidation so I applied dielectric grease to help. The signals work now, but the self canceling works 90% of the time, as sometimes i have to hold the left right selector to keep the signal going. I think the self-canceling unit has issues. So do most 20 year olds i know! Admin- move to another category if you wish!
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I have various reasons for wanting to do this...I want to install a off/on toggle switch so I can shut off my headlight when I feel like it..Has anyone done this? I was wondering if I did shut off the headlight would the red light start flashing and would the high and low beam icon also start flashing.... -
I've had a problem with my 86 VR where the signal lights were turning off way too quickly (sometimes after two or three blinks). One of my buddies helped me look at it a few weeks ago and we found out it was losing ground and cutting off before it was supposed to. After pricing replacement switches for a few weeks I decided to try something today. I ran a wire from the ground side of the fuse box through the cable channel in the left handle bar and into the switch. There is a metal plate inside the switch just behind the control. I played around with my wire to find where the plate needed the ground and soldered the wire in place. I have to manually turn my signal light off now after I make a turn, but I feel a whole lot safer now that I don't have to worry about it turning off at the wrong time. Not a hard fix if I could do it. Thought someone else may be having the same problem.
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Okay. I know my antennas are backwards based on another set of posts I've read. My problem is making the switch. I do not use the CB but at times the reception on the FM is not good and I'm hoping thr switch will help. I have an 04 RSV. I can turn the bottom where everything turns but I can feel what appears to be something turning inside as well so I stopped. Any suggestions on how to do this right? It should be easy but I'm afraid of breaking something. Thanks
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Does anyone have a wiring harness that has cruise control they want to sell. I'm messing with my cruise control cleaning all the switches when I break the cruise control cancel switch plastic that connects to the wire harness and hold the pieces of the switch in its box. Does anyone have one they want to part with?
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In the process of putting on new fairings and adding some lights. I had old running lights on a switch and something else on a switch, but never could figure out what was on the second switch. They were hooked to the positive with a separate wire. I pulled the wires out. I left the key on and killed the battery. I added the rear lights and tied into the rear light. I added lights on my front fender and tied into my front turn signals. I then took some jumper cables and jumped my bike. Lights on the back look good. Lights on the front looked good and then began to flicker in unison. Connection seems solid. Now the real problem. I pull the jumper cable and the bike stops immediately. Jumps automatically and stops automatically What have I done? Really appreciate your help
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Just when I figured out one problem I get another. I recently put the Plug and Play LED turn signals and tail light in my 99. Found out that the board or wire in the tail light was shorting out when I tightened down the bottom screw of the lens. Fix that and all seemed well. Got back yesterday from a ride to Vermont and still all is good. Put the bike away after a good cleaning, then this morning I get a call from the wife and she said the my passing lamps are on. They were not on when I went to bed last night. They're wire to a relay to the ignition switch and no other lights are affected (on). I will start tracing wires when I get home but am looking for a little advice what could cause it. Had one thought...Can a relay fail in the closed position?? Thanks. Bill
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Ok, I just saw my first close up of a 2000MM on Ebay and I gotta know if the (Instrument pod with tachometer and water temp guage) is available anywhere. This is located on the switch cover and looks really cool to me. Anyone know if this part is still in production or why its not on later versions?
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In early July my 08 RSV developed a problem with the starter electronics. When you turn the key on, the bike will start and the starter will stay ingaged without touching the starter switch. Since it is under warrantee I took it to the shop. They have had the bike for over a month now. They have replaced the starter selenoid, a relay, and the handle bar switch. The bike still does the same thing. I told them I thought it was a short in the wiring. Their response was there are miles on wire on the bike and they do not know where to start looking. The have contacted the Yamaha service tech for adivse. But at this time they do not know when they will get the the bike fixed and back to me. The weather is perfect for riding and I have no bike to ride.
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My 06 Midnite Venture quit on me this morning 5 miles out of Three Rivers, Michigan, and left me sitting on the side of the road for 20 minutes before it would start again. The same thing happened 10 days ago in Maryland. The symptoms: Cruising in 4th gear or so, the engine acts like it is starving for fuel (or that the kill switch has been hit - it wasn't) Coast to a stop, engine won't start. Yes I tried the kill switch, checked the pitcock - fuel flows from tank. No start. Yes, I hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I have normal dash lights indicated. There's no smell of flooded engine. No leaks, no smoke, but no start. 20 minutes later (both times) the engine starts and runs normally. Since the incident in Maryland, I have put over a thousand miles on the bike (MD, VA, WV, OH, IN and now MI). The only weird thing today when it finally started was that I pulled the choke on and then off while starting and it suddenly fired up. When it did, it was more like an electrical connection being made than the choke clearing. There was no coughing and sputtering. No smoke, no smell. Engine ran fine to the motel in Niles where we are staying. Any ideas or suggestions before we hit the road Thursday heading South? Thanks for mulling it over. Lynn
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Put on a new set of rear shoes today, and when I just took it for a test drive, my headlamp is not working...however, my high beam indicator stays on no matter where my switch is...any ideas?
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I started having an weird intermittent starting issue with my 85 when I was at Kruisn the Kootenays a couple of weeks ago. About 99% of the time the bike starts fine, but, every once in a while it wont click ,turn over, or make any noise at all. All my gauges work, everything has power, headlight is on and shuts off when I press the start button,so it looks to me like the start switch works ok, and yes, the kill switch is in the run position . After a time I can go back and it starts fine, no set time or temperature hot or cold doesnt seem to matter. BUT I found out yesterday and again today that if I hold the starter button down and press the horn it starts! Is this a bad ground? I am an electrical moron, does someone have an idea where I should start? It does have a relay with the Stebel horn that was installed last winter. And my side stand switch appears to be working properly as it kills the engine when I put it down and the warnings show up in the dash when it is down. Brian:bang head:
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I know some have bypassed the ignition switch for a just in case circumstance. So maybe someone can help me out here. Recently I have been having some weird things happening that I am attributing to the ignition switch going bad. I have read and printed out the by-pass procedure to install a separate switch on the bike in case the main one craps out. My question is this. By putting this switch in does it give you everything you need or is it just allowing you to crank the bike and run it? Do you get lights, dash, turn signals, brakes, and everything else that would normally come on with the ignition? Many thanks in advance.
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Well, after all the electric problems I have had and thought had overcome, a new one popped up last night. Most recall that I had upgraded the stator, rectifier/regulator, battery, ignition switch is new and all connections are tight and all plugs were seperated, cleaned and dialectrically greased. Bike was running better than ever. Last night as I was getting ready to leave for work, I went to fire the bike up. I disconnected the battery tender, turned the key on, waited a few seconds for the fuel pump to finish clicking then hit the starter button. Got half a whirr out of it then all went dark. Nothing, Nada....I turned it to accessory and the radio backlight light started pulsing for about 30 seconds then the radio came on. Nothing else came on, not even the signals. I tried going back to the on position but nothing still. I switched back to the acc and once again the radio backlight began a series of pulses before the radio came on. No presets were lost so the battery hasnt run down. A check today of the battery off the battery tender all night showed just under 13.00. I tried the switch and everything came on. Now I did hit the started switch while the DMM was connected and it went dark again. Went back to acc and the radio backlight started its pulsing dance again. If I hit the started button while the radio is on it goes dark until I let the button go, then the pulsing starts and a few seconds later the radio comes back on. So, since Im no electrical genius I would really appreciate some thorough advice here is laymans terms, before I start a bonfire in the middle of my driveway.... -
Jude just started a new job so we won't be able to make it to the Meet this year in Arkansas. I had reserved a king room at the Hub. Anybody wanting it PM me and we can switch it to your name.
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Front brake light switch
coltrain posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
My front brake handle - mastery cyl isn't generating my brake light. I have looked on bikebandit parts diagrams to purchase the new switch and lo and behold I picked the wrong part. Diode? Anyways, was wondering if anyone had the right part number for this bad boy before I throw anymore money away! -
i have a 86 royale that won't start, when i turn the key the fuel pump doesn't turn on,and the start key does nothing, the neutral light is on, when the engine was running last night and i parked the bike it was in gear and i put the kick stand down and the bike stopped running ,so i am assuming the kick stand switch works, the battery is realitively new,when i use the kill switch it makes a clicking noise that sounds like it is engaging a switch? should i start at the starter and work backwords? how do i get to the starter terminals? thanks for the help
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I noticed in your add in the classifieds for your backrest, that you got a road sofa!! I've been seriously debating it. How do you like it??? why did you switch from stock?? Did you get the one with the Gel pad built in?? OH...and...how's your passenger like it (veeerry important question!!)Any info would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks
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Today on my way home from work, I was cruising along on my 99 RSV at 60mph in 4th gear. Radio off, cruise control on. All of a sudden the engine died as if I'd hit the kill switch. Initially I thought that the cruise had just dropped out. Nope. Checked the kill switch, hadn't hit it. Flicked it back and forth a few times and tried to restart. Nothing. I have read all the posts on ignition switch failure and this sounds different. All my lights, radio, dash lights and instruments are working normally. The only problem is that when I hit the starter button nothing happens except for the engine temp light (red light on the lower right of the instrument panel) comes on until I release the button. I can hear the fuel pump run, 4-way flashers work, horn (Stebel) works....everything but the start circuit. I'm thinking kill switch failure. Any of you wizards have any thoughts before I start tearing her apart? Sure am thankful that this didn't happen last week in the middle of my 2000 mile Appalachian mountain range trip! Joe -
OK SO TODAY I DECIDED TO SPLIT THE FAIRING AND REPLACE MY STOCK BULB WITH SOMETHING BRIGHTER, AFTER WIFE TRIED TO NO AVAIL TO REPLACE WITHOUT SPLITTING, SO I GOT THE BULB IN NO PROBLEM GOT EVERYTHING PUT TOGETHER AND WAS READY TO HEAD OUT FOR A RIDE....... NOW I HAVE NO SPEEDO, FUEL GAUGE, OR TURN SIGNALS RUNNING LIGHTS COME ON BUT WHEN I HIT THE SWITCH NOTHING HAPPENS WHAT DID I DO?? GONNA OPEN IT BACK UP BUT WONDER IF ANYONE HAS SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHAT I UNHOOKED?:doh::doh:
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This is going to be a bit winded but I feel its necessary to detail all of it so you can be either: bored out of your skull, or get a good understanding of what im trying to say..... Over the years I have read about how the ignition switch just fails, leaving some stranded without warning. Now, most of you who followed my various posts over the last few years know about my charging system issues, which are now fully resolved thanks to some lengthy phone calls..... That being said, I had installed a Signal Dynamics heads up charging system indicator (see link below) just before I installed the Buckeye stator upgrade. It is really super sensitive to any electrical draw as it reads in millivolts (whatever that is) and it literally drove me (and Squidly) nuts after I installed the new stator. Rectifier followed and all connections were dialectriacally greased. (Was that a word?) All was fine. However, somewhere down the road the nice indicator light would stay yellow most of the time, only occasionally dipping into the green then back to yellow. It was red whenever I turned on the driving lights. All of my tests with the DMM showed the bike was charging. I figured I would just take Squidleys advice and just ignore the light. Well, it still drove me nuts. I started wondering about the condition of the ignition switch and whether it was a part of the charging system. I asked several knowledgable sources who had different thoughts on this. One actually referenced the wiring diagram and said that it did not appear to run through the charging system. Still not a firm answer. So, since my tumblers in the ignition switch was worn badly and the switch is 10 years old AND it was probably one of the last original electrical components left on the bike I decided to replace it. Flatout in Indiana had the best price at 123.00 so I ordered the switch and installed it. I fired up the bike and, lo and behold I had a green light!!! A steady green light!!! Its been 2 weeks now and the charging system is doing what its supposed to do. So, my point to this little story is that maybe, just maybe. and its only my opinion, but I think that Signal Dynamics LED light just might have indicated that the switch was deteriorating and it warned me prior to a faulure. The ignition switch obviously has something to do with the charging system, or at least had a big draw on the system as it was on its way out. So, the moral to this long winded story is, check out the Signal Dynamics link below and think about ordering one for peace of mind. For the low price I think its well worth it. I also like the Kisan monitering device but at $140.00 bucks its a bit steep for me. I use the model 1050 single light. http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/HUVM.asp
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We left home bound for Sikeston, MO this morning and about 20 miles from home running 70 mph on the parkway the bike just died like it was out of gas. A little sputter and dead. I coasted to the side of the road and checked everything. Kill switch was good, kickstand was up, ignition switch seemed to work, full tank of gas, fuel pump seemed to run, etc. I tried cranking it but it wouldn't fire. We set there a couple of minutes and I pulled the choke out and and tried again. It would fire and run a couple of seconds and then die again. I repeated this several times until it continued to run. So I assumed I had some bad gas or something. I rode on to Bardstown, about 50 miles and stopped a Walmart and got a can of Seafoam. I ran two tanks of gas with the Seafoam treatment as we continued on to Sikeston and we had no more problems other than very poor mileage. Riding two up and towing the Unigo at 70 mph I was only getting 30 to 32 mpg in 92 to 95 degree heat. Is there anything else I should check? Dennis
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