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Showing results for tags 'pressure'.
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Anyone familiar with the Accu-Pressure indicating valve stem caps? Looks like they would make checking tire pressure easy, but are they reliable? http://www.accupressurecaps.com/Low-Pressure-Caps-Single;jsessionid=0a0106431f43276de774084b4b2d8833aa77bd78599d.e3eSc3eMbxuPe34Pa38Ta38Qahb0 http://media.primetimesolutions.net/products/MACP01/images/MACP01.large.jpg
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Love this site and this is my first post. I just bought a 2001 RSV, and there was no tool kit which came with it. I tried my digital air pressure guage to check, but it wouldn't even go on the valve stem. My air hose inflater/deflater went on, but showed 0psi. I'm not sure it opened the Schrader valve. Any thoughts?
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anyone seen this before? http://community.cruisercustomizing.com/_Part-1-Motorcycle-Tire-Pressure-Monitor-and-Tire-Repair-Tip-of-the-Week/video/457649/22960.html?utm_source=SilverpopMailing&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ESS-CC-TW06&utm_content=imagelink&mc=ESS-CC-TW06&utm_source=SilverpopMailing&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=CC%20Tip%20of%20the%20Week%20081227%20ESS-CC-TW06%20(1)&utm_content= looks like a good thing to have
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Just keeps comeing, and again today, and another Low Pressure area heading into the coast line.
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Just installed new avon venom rear tire on 2007 venture. What tire pressure seems to work best with these tires?
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Hey All: Any help here would be appreciated....Going to add some Chrome Grips and Levers to the 06 Venture.... How do the end weights come off?....Is there a "trick" to taking our grips off....I have read about using air pressure, etc... Going with one of the Pro-One Grips below...I have seen both on a V-Star and Road Star.....Probably going with the Ribbed ones?... George In Virginia
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HI has any one played with different air pressure in the forks and rear shocks on 05 RSTD, if so what pressure are you finding for a long comfortable ride and what weight were you carrying. I have tried different pressures more in the back which made the bike feel that it was riding on a razor blade (Dangerous) and more in the front (very floaty) after riding a while the back shocker seems to harden I think the air in the shocker heats up, is that your experience thanks PIPER -
Hi everyone My 2004 RSV as 70,000 kms and I'm hearing the front end bang when I go over rough roads.I've tried adjusting the air pressure which hasn't helped. The front end isn't loose, no handling problem. I suspect the front fork oil is either gone or low. I haven't seen any leakage anywhere. So I thought I'd try draining and replacing the oil before getting too involved. So I'ved been able to find the the quantity of 0.553 L or 19.5 oz Imp., 18.7 oz us and weight -5W. for each fork tube, "Funny they sell it in 500ml or 1L size" The way of marketing. My question is the procedure ? I believe it to be a simply job, first remove the cap bolt with the air pressure valve. (both sides) next remove the bottom bolts allowing the oil to drain. Applying up & down pressure to the forks through the handle bars to push out any remaining oil in the forks. Replace the bottom bolts add correct volume of oil to each fork again apply up & down pressure to settle the oil, then replace Cap bolts to 17 ft-Ib torque. Buy following this procedure could I expect any problem I haven't taken into account. Any advise would be appreciated.
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I bought a new 08 Venture from Motions in Marietta on 8/28/08. It was perfect for the first 1800 miles. I did the 600 mile service and everything went smoothly. At 1800 miles, I started hearing a whine coming from the rear and it got progressively louder as time and miles went by. At 2400 miles I took it to the closest Yamaha dealer to my house, which was Mountain Motorsplrts in Conyers, to get the whine fixed. (I had only had the bike 7 weeks) One week later, they called me and said the whine was just a characteristic of the bike because of straight cut gears and there was actually nothing wrong with the bike. They also said my tires were low on air (20 PSI fromt and 25 PSI rear) and they were cupped and that was part of the noise I was hearing. I didn't pick up the bike and immediatly called Yamaha's South East Reginal Service Manager and asked him to check out my bike. His phone number wasn't the easiest number to get and I ended up getting it from someone here on the forum because I wasn't getting anywhere with the dealer. I talked to him at about 9:00AM one morning and by 1:30PM he had already ridden my bike and had called me and said it had a bad final drive and they were going to install a new final drive. He too, confirmed that my tires were cupped and that was a small part of the whine. It took another week for Mountain Motorsports to repair the bike because they had to order the final drive. I picked it up last Saturday and it doen't have the loud gear whine but I can now here the tire whine although it is not near as loud as the gear whine was. I feel pretty sure Motions didn't check the air pressure when they serviced it as a new bike. I have never seen a bike loose 50% of the air pressure in 7 weeks with no leaks. I called Motions to see what they intended on doing about my tires and they basically said nothing because I was suppose to check the air pressure every day. I normally check the air pressure about every 6 -8 weeks. I have talked to several people who ride bikes to see how often they check tire pressure and I have gotten every answer from every week to whenever it looks low to the eye. I plan on riding the bike another couple of weeks to see if I loose any pressure. If not, I feel like it had to of left Motions as a new bike with low pressure and I am gong to try to get a little better response out of Motions. In summary, Yamaha has been great but the dealers seem to SUCK!!!
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It's becoming evident to me that my clutch is needing some repair. It has lasted 53,000 miles, and now it will slip if I get into the gas even moderately hard. Is all that's happened here for the clutch to slip that the spring has gotten weak? For a stock rebuild, assuming the steel plates and friction discs are still usable, is it basically just replacing the spring with a new one? I've never been into a motorcycle clutch, or a clutch on any other vehicle either. So referring to TT's clutch article, I have a few questions. The upgrade consists of what parts, exactly, the heavier PCW spring and a full size plate in the back? Is the Barnett pressure plate a part of the upgrade, or is it a same as stock replacement? How do I know if the pressure plate needs replacing?
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Hi, On my 86 VR, the CLASS white plug connector appears to have a problem. When I turn the ignition with inserted key to ACC, the CLASS monitor will come on, light up w/the normal wording, and then display only the "PSI" lettering in the upper right corner. I may or may not get an error message; however, I am unable to adjust the air pressure. Then, if I open the CLASS door panel and push and/or press on the CLASS white plug connector, the monitor will continue to reactivate and finally stay connected long enough to allow me to adjust the front and rear air pressure. Do you think the problem is in the white plug itself or does the circuit board connectors that the white plug connects to need to be resoldered? I hate to talk bad about my 86 VR; however, as advanced as this bike was in 1986, you would think Yamaha would have come up with a better CLASS electronic connectivity design. It seems kinda cheap compared to the rest of the bike. Don't mean to upset anyone, just my opinion. Anyway, let me know your thoughts and past experiences concerning this question. Thank you, Allen Dallas, Texas
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My compressor builds up about 6 or 7lbs of pressure then I get an E2 code. If I unhook the compressor and put my air nossle in the hose while pressing front or rear the shock/forks fill up and show/hold the correct pressure. Is there a fix for this, it's obviously the compressor or am wrong?
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Front is 7lbs? Is that per shock or total for both forks? & rear is 0-57lbs?
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notice anything funny about the middle picture? Front Mount Air Horns For GL 1500 1988-1997, GL 1200 1984-1987, GL 1100 1980-1983, GL 1000 1975-1979 http://www.customdynamics.com/Images/d_135.jpg http://www.customdynamics.com/Images/d_197.jpg http://www.customdynamics.com/Images/d_193.jpg Triple chrome plated. All Air horn systems are bolt on plug in applications. Requiring about 30 minutes to install. They include the horn set, dust/bug covers, all necessary hardware, hoses, wiring, fuse, relay, and detailed instructions with pictures. The air compressor creates instant air pressure to the horns. Since the pressure is created so fast there is no need for a storage tank as on Semi Trucks and RVs. Although the pressure is very low (12-15 psi) it delivers a large volume of air (3 CFM or cubic feet per minute). This low-pressure high volume air supply causes the diaphragm inside the horn to vibrate at a high rate of speed or *frequency* the exact speed at which it vibrates is varied by the length of the horn or trumpet. Together the horn set produces an extremely loud 128-decibel warning blast. This is approximately 4 times louder than most electric motorcycle horns, which usually rate at 87 decibels. AHFRT Fits:
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In Gallup, NM. Headed to Grand Canyon tomorrow, then on to Los Angelos. Clutch started acting low on pressure. It is NOT slipping. But clutch lever is barely activating clutch. Catching just as soon as it leaves the grip. Fluid is full. I emptied the master cylinder and refilled with fresh DOT. Where is Slave and how do I get to it. What tools will I need, as I may have enough, but want to know before I open it up? Can I easily rebuild both cylinders myself if it comes down to it? Doubt I can find a dealer in LA who can do a 1 day turnaround. Any suggestions?
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I've been expermenting periodically with suspension settings for the past few years, especially since the air assistance began to leak. Initially I added a 1cm spacer which helped a little, but was not enough without the air pressure. Then I went to a 650lb spring, before deciding to upgrade. before the new spring arrived I fitted the spacer to the 650lb spring, but the thicker spring became coil bound on bumps in Irish roads and broke the spring seat. I fitted the upgraded shock after we'd limped home. ************************************************** [Problem with pasting table, please see attached excel worksheet] ************************************************** In case it's not clear, the columns are: spring rate, the free length of the spring, the fitted length, the amount of precompression (assuming no sag) and then the force on the suspension. When I had the new suspension made I asked for it to be a 1/2" longer, so the next column gives the load after that 1/2" of travel - at would be fully extended on the standard shock. I made a few assumptions (like about seven square inches internal area) to guess the force generated by the air pressure which I estimated as 500lb or 225kg, so the next column gives the combined spring and air pressure at rest (assuming no sag). The last four columns are the equivalent figures at fully compressed, which is important as you need to be sure that springs not only don't become coil bound, but have some movement left so they do not weaken through over-compression. To work out the air assisted max compression load I have used the same pressure figure. This could be grossly wrong, however, as the pressure may triple on full compression. I don't know for sure, though. At present I have an 850lb/in spring fitted and it sits way too low - with little ground clearance and not much suspension travel left. I'm not sure how much preload I wound on on the coilover Gaz shocks, but it's not enough. I'm guessing that I preloaded it 1/2" and then it compressed another 1 1/2", leaving 15mm, just over 1/2" of movement (equating to nearly 2" movement at the back wheel) - meaning that static, without a rider, by bike needs about 700kg force, 15-1700lb just to support its own weight. Without a sidecar, or with a lighter one you'd need less, with a trailer you'd need more. In the next couple of days a 1000lb/in spring will arrive and I'll preload it at least 1/2" and prefereably closer to 1". If you're thinking about upgrading your suspension, maybe the above will help - some car suspension manufacturers will find it hard to believe that spring weights as high as this are needed. Coilover springs are much safer to fit than the standard type of shock. WARNING If you fit a heavier spring to your standard shock, DON'T RELY ON SPRING COMPRESSORS (you won't compress them enough anyway) - make up a jig, preferably with 12 or 14mm studs (4 off) to wind down the spring. If the spring were to break free when fully compressed and if you were too close it could kill you. :240:That's because you have to compress the spring enough to fit the circlip into the groove and with the 650lb spring that's practically a tonne of force on the spring. -
I,ve got an 83 vr, and was wondering if anyone has put a aftermarket oil pressure gauge on theirs, I don't trust the idiot lights, GREAT web site I've been a member for a bit over a year, and it's been a lot of help on The Beast.
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Today I found that the left side caliper is getting absolutely no hydraulic pressure when the brake lever is pulled. First I thought it was a corroded bleeder so I took it out. Still no fluid. I then undid the banjo bolt from the brake house and still no pressure. Far as I went today. Looks like I either have a collapsed brake line or a T fitting that is blocked. In any event, are aftermarket steel braided lines available for a 86 Venture? Also,,,, anyone ever have this happen? No inherent weirdness that plaques these front braking systems are there? -
I know I had seen something out here a while ago about this, but couldn't find it. Anyways, the brass outlet tube was weeping a bit and it popped out when I pulled the fuel line off. I understand that it is a pressure fit, ok to tap it back in as is? Use a little sealant? Or replace the whole thing? Thoughts or experiences, thanks.
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Help. Never have had a problem like this on old 83. Just took it 5000 miles west to Glacier, Waterton, Yellowstone, the tetons and the bighorns...300 miles from home the clutch seemed to lose pressure.. the only way to get it to shift was to pump the clutch up.. no fluid was seemingly lost.....Stopped and bled the clutch , but to no avail... the pressure stayed up , but it got to the point where it would no longer shift. Fortunately it stopped working just a few miles from my moms' house on my last day.... However... it will no longer shift into any gear while running.. I can get it into nuetral while it is not running, but the second I try to put it in any gear, it slams to a stop and kills the motor or makes an ungodly sound like someone throwing a bad of wrenches.. Hopefully the tranny did not go.. I love my original 83 (40,000 miles )and would hate to see it die. Never dealt with any clutch issues before so have no idea.. Any thoughts, clues or things to look at????? Hard to repair???? I have to take my trailer and ride back 300 miles to pick up the bike next week...Want to do more serious riding this summer so any advice or help would be greatly appreciated... Met another Venture rider ( Dave 007) at a gas station in Chamberlain,SD on my way back. 5000 miles 0f a great trip. the Road to the Sun and The Beartooth were great rides....Hopefully old 83 is up for more... -
I was just reading the summer issue of Yamahas 'Horizons' newsletter.. Page 8 has an article and pics on the new 2009 V MAX. Its motor is an all new 1679cc V 4. Chip controlled intake system. a new fuel injection system and fly-by-wire throttle system. Also a new aluminum frame and swingarm. Now what are the chances that this MAY be the basis for a new RSV. Does that then mean the dreaded gear whine could be goneand at least a 15% increase in horsepower to match BMW? For my wish list...... A real speedo and tach with volt meter, oil and coolant pressure gauges.Even a gear indicator. The electric adjustable windshield from the FJR.....Am I getting ahead of myself here? A taller trunk so a full face can really fit. Better back light...s. How about a full fairing for better weather protection. Paneling over the engine so not to hear any noise except the exhaust. Not forgetting the 5yr unlimited mileage warranty. With the additional Roadside Assistance that us up North don't get but would like.. Its nice to dream......... 1154
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Hey Guys, I thought I'd give you all a heads-up that Linda and I are leaving for a 2 week vacation on June 21st to West Virginia and the Smokey Mountains, etc. Therefore the "Butt Butler" will NOT be IN until probably July 7th. I have told this to the last few folks recently that were interested in my seat mod and I'm sending out Steve Wallace's RSTD seat today. And I think I have one more seat headed my way to complete before we leave. So, if you have not shipped your seat to me as of today June 13th, please wait until after July 4th. Then I will be happy to fix your seat. And on the subject of fixing seats, I thought I'd like to give you all a little insight into what I have learned recently from re-working seats. Even though I have been doing my tail-bone relief for maybe 20 years, I have learned much more since I have been using memory foam to layer seats before putting the cover back on. It not only fills in the seat cover from the foundation foam that I've removed but it's such a pleasureful material to sit on. It does not have a linear resistence that most foams have when sat on. It compresses fully to the foundation foam whan sat on from those pressure points and then doesn't compress where there is no pressure. Secondly, I have always used a electric carving knife to remove most of the foam. This is done to take any crown or forward pitch that is in the seat, or more recently to cut a curvature into the back of the seat to let you set back into the it. I don't know why Yamaha in their wisdom built a flat surface into the back of their seats? To me it just created another pressure point that is annoying. The reason I have only recently discovered this issue, is that I've been riding on a Travelcade Road Sofa for the past 20 years. And even some aftermarket seats have comfort issues that I've had to personally deal with. And I'll have to admit that the Road Sofa for the 2nd gen is nothing like what they made for the 1st gen Ventures. And IMHO gel inserts are highly overrated. They not ony absorb heat when sat out in the sun, the gel still creates pressure points that are uncomfortable. In fact I reworked a Travelcade Road Sofa for a 2nd gen few months ago and discovered gel inserts which I was not expecting. However I had worked around them on my Road Sofa a year earlier and had planned on doing this one the same. However the more I got to looking at the seat with the inserts out, I realized that I could cut the edges of the insert indentions out and still have plenty of foundation foam to work with. Plus it automatically gave me a seat that was 3/4" lower, which works well for those of us that are inseam challenged. And with a 1 1/2" of memory foam, the seat cover still fits like it was intended. But, I've only recently found a small pneumatic right angle grinder with a 4" 60 grit sanding pad that I could easily control and vary the speed. This tool is critical to put a final smooth finish on the foam after I have cut it down with the carving knife. However it really puts off some fine foam particles, so after a short period of smoothing down foam, it looks like I've been snowed on. This is why I do this work outside under my carport. Sorry I got long winded explaining why I won't be available until after July 4th. But I need to go get a couple of tires changed for a our trip coming up. Thanks, Rick Oh and FYI, if you have not noticed, I have a classified ad here for my Butt Butler Seat Mod http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1023/cat/7/date/1157932426
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I have noticed that when I check my tire pressure on the RSV, Brickstones, that it is different by two-five pounds by time of day. My bike sits under my covered carport, on concrete, and if I check it when it is cool outside (morning) it is dead on ( 36 front-41 rear) If I check it in the mid day or afternoon when the temp is higher then it will rise by anywhere from two to five pounds depending on how hot it is outside. So my question is this, is it ok to regulate the pressure by the "expanded" (afternoon) tire pressure/temp or try to always take the pressure in the am when the tires are cold? On a side note the Brickstones are going bye bye. my new AVON's are getting put on tomorrow. Thanks to a $400.00 screw I will have a new set of tires at 5000 miles.
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Help. I'm replacing the front brake line and the brake master cylinder on the handle bars emptied out. I'm having problems building the pressure up. The lever won't pump up. Any thoughts? joe
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Just wanted to know what some of u use for air pressure in the front and rear shocks. My wife and I are about 500lbs together with the saddle bags full. Is there any good ides what they should be run at. Oh and it was a great day in Maine for a ride.
