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Showing results for tags 'plug'.
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So I'm in the process of removing the 16 valve cover bolts and adding washers to stop my couple of small leaks. I'm also replacing the spark plugs as I work in each area... I pop off the spark plug cap to replace the front left plug and I see what looks like a big washer behind it... When I removed it, it was a 1984 quarter. How the heck did a quarter get in that tight area behind the cap...? That just hits me as weird... the plugs looked like they were in for a long time... but it's a 1989...
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I'm sure any of us that do some of own work on things, mechanical, woodworking etc have had a day when nothing goes right. Well I have had like 2 weeks of this. It started a couple weeks ago I was working on the bike wiring in a headlight modulator. Somehow I blew a fuse. Then putting the fairing back together, that took a couple times to get everything happy. Then a few days later I attemted teh lowering of the front end forks. When back together the handle bars seemed askew to the right. So a day or so later I took it all apart and redid it. The first time I couldnt get the forks to "slide" up so I had to take the wheel off. So you see where this is going right? Nothing is easy. So today I decided to change the plugs in the wifes Durango. I mean heck it only has like 110K on the orginals. So left bank goes OK. First one on the right bank is really tight comming out. So I do the a little out, then back the other way. About 4 or 5 into this program and "snap" @!#$% I'm thinking I broke of the porclen no biggy right? WRONG it snapped off the bolt part of the plug. I have the entire insulator and electrode everything but the threads and the washer flat part that seats. HMM what now. So I calls a friend @ the Dodge house, his suggestion is an ez out. Well I thought of this but was hoping they had something.... well a little more refined. So I did thru the tool box find the ez outs but the dang things all have square drives. And of course all I have is mainly six point sockets. So off the the store to get 1ea 12 point 10mm. So now I tap the ez out in. I have sprayed several liberal shots of liquid wrench at it hoping to relive some of the corrision. I carefully wind out the troublesome piece. It was a bugger bear all the way out. Should I have expected anything else with the luck I have had lately? Certainly not. Finnaly get the bottom part out and look at the threads, argh the last couple on the plug look like crap. I blow out the hole and try to look but heck its a foot below in a hole. Well maybe the new one will thread in. I have the new plug in a piece of 8-10" long fule line to thread in. No go, should I be suprised? Well as luck would have it the spark plug chaser I have aint right, go figure. It probably went to a ford or something I had 20yr ago. lol So off to the store again for thread chaser. The rest of teh job goes OK and the job is done. But man I'm scared to ride with the way my luck has been the last couple weeks. I think I have put probably 100+ iles on the car/bike/truck in the last 2 weeks or so running up to Autozone or Sears or Advance. The to auto parts places aint but maybe 4 miles one way and Sears is maybe 7 one way. I sure hope I have used up my bad luck.
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I found this white electricial plug underneath the trunk of my 91 VR as I removed the trunk so I can install a trunk guard. It has two female plugs Anyone know what it is for? -
I have a 1984 Venture with the 1200cc engine on it (locked up), will a 1985 1300cc mount up to my 1984 frame and swing drive arm? Also will the electrical plug in as well or will I have to do mods to make it work. Thanks any help and or pictures would be appreciated.
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Where exactly is the front plug located? I just purchased 2 83s with CB's and i cant seem to find the front helmet plug. The back one is located in the same place as it was on my 85 i used to have. I havent dug into it much, but i plan on tearing both bikes apart to make one good bike. Also there is no push to talk switch for the CB. I'm just a little confused on how that works too, but any information would be much appreciated. Thank you CJ
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This is hopefully the last thing I have to do before getting this bike finally on the road. Looking for advice so I don't remove anything unnecessary. What all do I have to remove to get all the plug wires changed out? Thanks. -
I found a XMsnap radio at Best Buy on the day after Christmas for $19.99 and decided to see if it would work in the DC outlet in the fairing. Since I had already split the audio input, there was a 3.5mm plug to use for the audio output of the XM radio. In short, this radio works great. All I had to do was locate the included antenna, plug it and the audio cable into the XMsnap and plug the unit into the DC outlet. Quick & easy and it sounds great. See pictures.
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I feel embarassed asking this because it's probably staring at me right in the face. I search the forum but found nothing, hence the embarrassment. My 84 Royale has the factory radio, no CB. The controller has an intercom button, so I assume the system is compatable with standard din headphones...but where do they plug in?? Andy
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I have a 94 Saturn SC2 with 175K miles. I'm the second owner since 50K miles. The Saturn has been receiving routine maintenance. In the last week I would feel an occasional electricial miss. Well I got new plugs and wire. It does not have a distributor cap nor a rotor. As I was installing the new plugs and wire this is what I uncovered. I replaced the plug about 30K miles ago but the wires I do not believe ever been replaced. 4 of the 2 wire where it connects to the coil/or whatever end, the wire cap was all croded really bad. The other 2 of the 4 were quite shiny. On the Spark Plug end 3 of the 4 plugs seemed fairly white rather than light tan. Maybe that is normal these days for electronic ignition. The 1 plug was all covered in oil. When I cleaned the oil off the plug looked quite clean where I was expecting it to be black with a lot of crude. Questions 1) What would cause 2 of the 4 wires to be extrememly croded at the coil end ( full of white residue). 2) What would cause the 1 spark plug to be soaked in what looks like fresh oil.
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Hello. My 86 YVR 1300cc needs new plugs. Wats yer recomendation for a decent plug n plug gap? Has 48,000 miles on it. Anything I should know bout removing old ones before I do it? I mean there isnt anything funky Ill run into is there? Tnx, RR:confused07:
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Does anyone know if I can cut out the CB headphones and still use the mic by pulling the corasponding pins on the plug-in. What I'm looking to do is have the transmission come thru the bike speakers but I don't want to do any permanent damage to the DIN plug on the bike. thanks Markus
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Found one of these for a Honda Goldwing (http://www.wiiki-tech.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1702&products_id=6567) it plugs into the radio replacing the the CD I think. Now I also emailed them requesting if they have one for the Venture and I am waiting to hear back. These go for 90.00 - 100.00 each which if they would be willing to make the connection into the cd plug on the Venture it would be a great option and upgrade to the bike. Now I'm thinking if a bunch of us were to make the same request from them they might just act on it. What do you guys think?
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It was running great for about 30 minutes. When I got a chance to hammer down and open her up I did. The power sure feels good. Then all of a sudden the VR was not as responsive and not as smooth. But it still ran ok up to speed. Got home and I started it up and felt the pressure at the exhaust. The right side seems to produce a little less pressure. It seem to start right up. Now before I started the ride I filled the tank and put about 5 oz of Seafoam for my plans are that when I got home I would fill the tank up again and put more Seafoam then it would pretty much sit for several months. Of course I would start it up to normal running temperture once a month. This is because I just purchased a 91 VR with less than 7000 miles on it. I was going to take all the accessories/goodies of my 89 VR and put them on the 91. So my troubleshooting plans are to do the following: 1) Pull each plug and see what the plugs tell. Put my backup set in, run the VR 2) The Seafoam may have loosen some carb gunk and so I was going to open the bowel drain screw. Then also unscrew the carb bowl drain plug. If anyone has some better trouble shooting suggestions, I'd be greatful.
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i think the sea foam is fouling out my plugs. i used the ngk's recommended by the manul. has anyone tried a different plug? in your opinion, which is best? -
I am trying to run my satellite radio and Garmin GPS off my aux. plug. I purchased a single to double plug but when i connect the GPS the radio's volume goes down to almost zero. I bought a "boostaroo" from Radio Shack which cures the radio problem but now the intereference from engine or ignition is also boosted to the point that the static is untolerable. Any suggestions?
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Need Advise: My parts source in Puyallup Wa did not have the Hazard SW nor the 41R Relay. So I'm into the wires. My turn signal and 4 way flashers are not working. I've cleaned all the related connectors and clean and tested the bulbs and sockets. 1) At the hazard sw connector the Bike side. When I turn the key on, I get power to the RED wire & Tan wire. When I use the turn signal for both turns still on the RED and TAN wires has power. Now I put the Hazard wire plug into the Bike end of the Hazard plug. 2) On the Hazard SW side of the plug the RED & TAN wires still has power. Inaddition the TAN/YELLOW wire now has power. Same when the Hazard SW is eithor ON or OFF. Nothing changes when I use the turn signals. 3) If I put the Hazard SW right in the middle of the OFF & ON, the TAN/YELLOW wire no longer has power. Just wondering what it would do. My knowledge of wireing is pretty basic. From this point I do not know what else to test for power. Any Suggestion.
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My gas mileage dropped by about 10 mpg. I checked and my left back cylinder wasn't heating up the pipe so I removed the plug and it was fouled I replaced with new plug but pipe still does not heat up So cylinder is still not firing. I can do some repairs but am not sure on what is the best way to trace this problem. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. dale
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I haven't had my Gen 1 all that long and I did not know anything about the spark plug condition. I found a tip sheet that said that the best plug for my bike would be the NGK DPR8EX-9. It was not a big deal to find the plugs and replace the current NGK Iridium DPR8EIX-9 plugs. The Iridium plugs looked pretty good when I removed them. Since I have installed the new plugs I have noticed that the bike doesn't run as well. Cold starting isn't as snappy as it had been and the engine is a little lethargic when rolling off of idle. Outside of that I cant tell much difference. Was the Iridium plug really the better plug? Ray
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Ok, I'm wondering....... I used the NKG DPR8EA plugs for a couple years and wasn't happy with the life span. I changed to the NKG DP8EA plugs a year or so ago. Not much difference in how long they last. I run them at .035 gap and they are consistant with a nice tan burn on all of them. No fouling and gaps are barely off spec. I can clean and regap them and not get a lot of improvement. It's the same story every time. The bike starts and runs great for about 4,500 to 5,000 miles and all of a sudden it gets picky about starting. I mean real picky. Down right bitter about starting. It will always start, but it's a stand off for a while. A quick change of plugs and she's back to touch of the button. Same way every time. I expect more life from a plug than that but I can not find a reason for the the plugs failing at such a regular schedule. None of the obvious stuff anyway. Caps and wires were new two years ago and still test like new. No corrosion, no resistance issues. The battery isn't the problem either. It's full charge and as soon I change the plugs she's like new again. Any suggestions? Mike -
1984 Venture Royale. Picture makes it look nicer that it really is. Missing tour pack and few mounting tabs for the plastics. Also there is a medium length crack in the fairing below the mirror. Best thing is I paid $700 dollars and it only 13,1xx miles. Radio works (1 speaker), cruise works analog/digital gauges work and air suspension also. Original owner passed away 2 years ago and spent most of the time in his garage being banged up. Purchased 2 years ago by the seller I got it from and he only put 400 miles on it. I was originally looking for a gl1200 after getting rid of my Electra glide classic and road king in the past two years to play around on the cheap, but I felt the price on this bike was too good to pass up. It does not get good gas mileage and does not seem to have a lot of power or I thought it was going to feel stronger than it does. Seems to run fine, but lacks resposiveness off of idle when starting from a stop. Plugs, filter and oil were just changed by the previous owner. He has been running sea foam in the tank for the last fifty miles in preparation to sell the bike. Plug wires look bad with tape and the such so I want to change them. Almost feels like it only runs on two cylinders and the two rear header pipes do not get very hot. It got about 26.5 mpg on the first tank for me. Obviously my biggest gripe is the power and mpg. Since I will start first with plug wires, do these bikes have individual wires to plug from the coil that I can replace or are they built into the voil and require cutting? If I can just buy wires, who are the best retailers for this bike? Another gripe I have is the front brakes are inadequate. Previous owner did pads on the front and back, bake brakes are great fronts feel like they are glazed. Maybe they are glazed or is this the nature of the beast? Are new rotors available? I know the pegs are adjustable, but not enough for me. Who sells a nice highway peg so I can stretch out on long rides? This motor puts off some heat going down the road, wow was not expecting that yamaha routed the hot air to hit your legs while driving. Can the 2 holes on each side of the fairing by the rear cylinders be covered or are they required to properly cool the bike? Tks and I'm sure I will have many more questions. [img]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p75/jurob_2006/photo5.jpg[/img] -
http://www.ledglow.com/index/ They look pretty easy to install. Everything is plug and play.
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1st ...I have had my 87 Royale for 20+ years. And done many Mods and work. I have 30 years as an electronic tech. But I have been having this HOT idle skip. EX: been riding on a hot day. Get off the hiway to my house. Pull up the driveway. Open the garage and the idle starts missing. I can see the tach dipping..I hear the spark plug caps arcing and can see it on the right side caps(3,4) sparks to the head. AH, I replace the caps and wires to ALL coils. Stiill no help when hot. AND if I rev the bike the issue goes away for a 30 seconds then returns. I ohm out the pick up coils. All good. Primary side of the ignition coils.. test good even when HOT...OUCH. I replaced intake o-rings AND We can rule out the carbs because I had the bike EGA'd ...it's not rich... running 13.5:1 a/f @ 1000rpm. CHanged to non-resistor spark plugs vs. resistor type...no difference. Since the bike can idle smooth on first start of the day w/o choke...Thus , I think a hotter range plug will not fix this. As a cold engine is more difficult to ignite fuel. Also, I do not see a "rev limiter" wire in the schematics. Typically from the tach to ignitor. As this has been a documented problem on my Yamaha Vision. Again, if I increase revs it's good for as hort few seconds. I am thinking it the ignitor getting heat soaked OR secondary side of the 2 right coils are bad...BUT then again, reving it shiould not temp. make it run good. Any experience out there with an issue like this???
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I have acquired a replacement for the plug in connector at the stator (generator, alternator, magneto etc.) These are a direct replacement for what is on the 1st gen bike from the factory. Not sure about the RSV's. General recommendation is to eliminate this connection, I am aware of that. However, I prefer to have mine unplug-able. The connection is a problem if the pins become corroded or fatigued with age. A new replacement set will be good for a long time if soldered in place. This is a direct replacement for the existing plug so it is possible to only replace one side of connection if desired, not recommended. A set of these is $12.00 including US & Canada first class shipping. This includes the male & female side of the plug and 3 each male & female connector pins. From experience, Canadian postal service takes at least 10 days and at times 20 or more. Picture shows several sets of connectors, so they can be seen from different sides. Paypal is gary(at)dinges.com replace (at) with @ They will also be in classifieds. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC02347.jpg -
Picked up a bent over nail in Casper WY. I'm with Phoneman1981 and graderman and friends. Put a plug in but still have a slow leak. The good news is I'm with friends. Yamaha dealer here is closed Monday. The good news is I made to an airconditioned MacDonalds on the plug. Going to try to replug it and make it to Cody. Thats 200 miles. Friesman1 (Brian Fries) and Camos (Clive) and I are sharing a cabin at Ponderosa. Take the cabin if I'm late. I'll send email to Ponderosa.
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I checked out the other threads on this plug topic and came up with two plugs. The original NGK-DPR8EA-9 (Napa - $2.29 each, I purchased today) and this plug in a IRIDIUM NGK-DPR8EIX-9 (Napa - $10.00 each). Napa did not recommend the Iridium, when I asked if they knew anything about them. Napa parts person said the Iridium have been known to burn holes or pits in the top of the pistons. I was planning on using the original plugs anyway. So far I have figured out that the tank and dog bones has to be removed to get the plugs out. Any further advise and help in any way here is appreciated. James (Fuzzy)
