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Showing results for tags 'plug'.
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I looking for a clean and professional look when I mount the 5 flat plug on the bike. Have looked at the back of my 08 RSV and can't seem to decide how or where to mount the plug. I'm pretty picky, but know there are others on here that are picker than I and also wanted a clean look. So the question is how and where did you mount your trailer plug. Thanks.
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I have a 2005 RSTD and have been searching everywhere, and probably found the answer, but I am one that needs the answer in plain site.. What is the size of the oil drain plug washer (or gasket as I have seen listed in various parts manuals)? I don't need one right away but would like to keep a few on hand just in case.. Thanks, Robert C.
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I have been wanting to change the spark plugs on my VR. Discovered my 18 mm deep socket would not fit in the hole. Spent most of the day browsing through the local tool shops looking for a thin walled socket without success. At the end of it all went to the dealer to see what they had with interesting results. Found out the plug socket only came with the original tool kit. Yamaha wanted... wait for the drum roll... $539.00 ... Whoo-Hoo On the other hand, they did have a Honda plug wrench for sale as a stand alone tool. Went out to see if it would fit and while rummaging around for a screwdriver to remove the side grill found that I had the OEM plug wrench already, just didn't know it. The Honda plug wrench did fit. Perhaps unfortunately, in my excitement I forgot to get the price of the Honda tool. It likely was not very expensive as it was zinc plated and not chromed like my POSH Royale tool. Thought I would pass that along just in case anyone else really was stuck without a way to remove their plugs.
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Looking for some parts
VentureBob posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
There were some items that used to be in the classified section that I thought SkyDoc was selling that I don't see anymore. I am looking for the needle shim mod that was sold as a kit. I thought at one point I could get the diaphrams and needles all assembled so it was a quick and easy plug and play mod. If anyone knows where I can get a kit like this, please post here as I would like to order these parts before I have carbs synced. Thank you, Bob -
hey all anyone know of a headlight upgrade that i just plug in and go? i came across a old post here about someone trying to get a set of hella lamps to plug in to existing light but cant find it again and dont know if it worked out into a plug an play kit or not. the original headlight on my 83 venture is crap and looking for something to cange it without change or adding a bunch of wireing and electronics. thanks for any help -
While pulling & greasing the steering head bearings, I found a small (3/16) hole leading to the upper frame member. Can anyone think of a good reason not to plug this hole. The thought is to put a zerk fitting on the side of the head and be done with pulling this bugger apart to grease the bearings. I think the hole is there to releave pressure while assembling the frame. Since the frame is complete - plug the hole.
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hi again all. thanks a lot for great replies on my led question great group here will definetly be joining perm. but now i have problem. this is my first older bike so im not very sure of the mechanics but love the bike 1983 venture!! got it a month ago was idleing hard had a yamaha dealer fix he rebuilt carbs and changed plugs. ran great for 200 miles. then last night went for little cruise and ran very hot started dogging out from standing start offs got home noticed clicking from right rear cylinder the spark was jumping from plug boots to motor . to hot and dark to look at it . i dont think he canged plug wires do you think its just that or something worse? or i guess these are the put together yourself wires do you think it just came apart at the boot? thanks again all
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Went out to eat, afterwards sitting on curb talking to wife noticed screw in back tire. Not leaking air so went strait home , easy like. Pulled out 2" screw it went in at angle middle of tire. Tire is a Avon Vemnon with 865 miles on it. Do you'all thing i could plug & patch. Just to get some wear out of it before replacing it? (good meal didn't settle to well go figuer) Larry
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I have removed the AIS system from my 2006 RSTD. I crimped the tubes and that shut off the nipples from the heads. How can I plug these tubes if I remove the original pipes/packing/clamps?
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Lost the left plug on a recent ride. Need an idea to keep it on snug, but yet able to get if off. Any one have an extra one laying around? My picture won't upload. It's the Left black plug that covers the nut that allows the handle bars to be adjusted up and down.
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Oil Change instructions for Women: 1. Pull up to GM Dealership when the mileage reaches 3,000 miles since the last oil change. 2. Drink a cup of coffee. 3. 15 minutes later, scan debit card and leave, driving a properly maintained vehicle. Money spent: Oil Change:$24.00 Coffee: Complementary TOTAL: $24.00 Oil Change instructions for Men: 1. Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree,and use your debit card for $50.00. 2. Stop by Beer Store and buy a case of beer, (debit $24), drive home. 3. Open a beer and drink it. 4. Jack truck up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands. 5. Find jack stands under kid's pedal car. 6. In frustration, open another beer and drink it. 7. Place drain pan under engine. 8. Look for 9/16 box end wrench. 9. Give up and use crescent wrench. 10. Unscrew drain plug. 11. Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process. Cuss. 12. Crawl out from under truck to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw kitty litter on spilled oil. 13. Have another beer while watching oil drain. 14. Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench. 15. Give up; crawl under truck and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter and twist off. 16. Crawl out from under truck with dripping oil filter splashing oil everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer. 17. Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface. 18. Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine. 19. Remember drain plug from step 11. 20. Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan. 21. Drink beer. 22. Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty litter on oil spill. 23. Get drain plug back in with only a minor spill. Drink beer. 24. Crawl under truck getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame removing any excess skin between knuckles and frame. 25. Begin cussing fit. 26. Throw stupid crescent wrench. 27. Cuss for additional 5 minutes because wrench hit truck and left dent. 28. Beer. 29. Clean up hands and bandage as required to stop blood flow. 30. Beer. 31. Dump in five fresh quarts of oil. 32. Beer. 33. Lower truck from jack stands. 34. Move truck back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during any missed steps. 35. Beer. 36. Test drive truck. 37. Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence. 38. truck gets impounded. 39. Call loving wife, make bail. 40. 12 hours later, get truck from impound yard. Money spent: Parts: $50.00 DUI: $2,500.00 Impound fee: $75.00 Bail: $1,500.00 Beer: $20.00 TOTAL: $4,145.00 But you know the job was done right! -
Been chasing a coolant leak from the rear left hand cyl its been droping down and sitting on the rubber cover for the clutch bleed screw.Today i decided to remove the false air fin on that side to see if i could find where it was coming from, just below the 3 holes that hold the fins in place is a 4th threaded hole that was wet around it wiped clean and dry thought i should go for a quick blast to be sure thats the correct leak.I anly got a Klm from home and coolant was pissing out got home asap. Found out that this is a welsh plug of some sort it and it blew out under pressure must screw in and snap off under tension i imagine. Two things lernt today 1/ Yamaha parts are really expensive $55 for the plug 2/ Dont ride your bike with the false fins off as they are designed to hold this plug in place More money more dramas just love it but would rather be riding
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I have a set of Denso COP coils in hand. They came out of a 2007 Honda CBR 1000. This unit would replace the larger coils used on the bike now. 129700-4840 10484 printed on coil end - 08H31 stamped in same area The Ignitech TCI module maker said it would handle the coils lower primary resistance. Going to give these a try on the bike as I am not really happy with where I had to install rear pair of coils. A little other discussion on this at link below. Started a new thread to maybe get some fresh inputs. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58797 All 4 coils primary's measure 1.4 ohms All four coils secondary's measure 13.46K ohms. How do I tell which of the 2 input terminals is the common 12V+ terminal. I can see no markings which indicate internal wiring. My meter is not sensitive enough to differentiate between 13.46K ohms only and 13.46k ohms plus the 1.4 ohms coils in series. Could I just test wire up a circuit. Put plug in & grounded. Put 12v + to one side of coil & 12v - to other side of coil (this attached to plug ground). Open negative side at coil. This seems like it should fire plug. If it does polarity guessed at correct. If not flip polarity at coil pins. It should fire if it didn't before. Schematic shows two wiring choices. Anyone see any fault with this. Picture of COP coil on head is just a random one I came across for an idea what they look like installed. Gary -
I noticed coolant leaking from the left rear cylinder... http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab243/BriRit/2011-03-28_16-40-52_203.jpg I removed the side cover from the cylinder and found this brass looking plug leaking coolant. What is it, and how do I fix it? http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab243/BriRit/2011-03-28_16-45-54_601.jpg -
The plug that one would plug the headset in located on the gas tank is waring out from being connected so many times. Babbits wants $50 some bucks for it and the Yama dealer wants $80. Anyone now of repairing or installing a new 5 pin socket or a less expensive place to buy the part, J& M would need a part # which it don't have. Any suggestions?
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I have a stuck spark plug. When I say "stuck", I don't mean tight, I mean it will barely move. I am trying all the tricks to ease it out slowly. I might even be able to run the motor later for a few minutes to warm the head up. In the meantime, I am trying to work it back and forth while soaking it in PB Blaster. Questions: 1. If the tread comes out with the plug, can the rear cylinder head be removed with the engine in the frame? 2. If the engine has to come out, what is the easiest way (I have the Yamaha Manual)? 3. Any tips, other than "sell it"? Grrrr!
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Now that I've got the new GW it's time to get my electrical accessories (GPS, XM) installed. In addition, I want to install a 12V outlet for phone charger and air compressor use. There is a 12V acc plug under the left fairing pocket that is only fused at 5A. The instructions with the plug said to change the 5A fuse to 10A. I'm not going to do that. I would like to use the existing power source to trigger a relay that is connected to the battery on a 20A fuse. From the relay I would feed both the GPS and 12V plug. My question is, is there a way to route a wire from the battery to the left pocket without pulling the shelter off? It's hard to believe a bike like this doesn't come standard with a 12V port. Dennis
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I bought a set of saddlebag rails for my 2000 RSV. It didn't come with directions but are pretty easy to figure. Now what I need to know is this....How do I get the plug out of the holet where the bracket mounts to on the backside of the saddlebag by the fender? Thanks for the help Rick
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Carb or coil????? About three weeks ago I rode the Venture, and all was well. Last week I rode it in to work, and it just didn't have any power,,, When I got to the shop I felt of the pipe covers at the engine, and found that the front left was cold as a cumber. Thought junk in the carb. Got it home and drained the bowl, and there was a very small amount of tinny trash,,,, OK I re charged the carb, and drained it two or three times, and it was clear. Kool.. Ran it for about 20 minutes,, and all seemed good to go all pipes good and HOT. Took it out for a test, and crap still no power, and back firing. Took the tank off and the dog bone to check the plug ( new only 1500 or so on them ) While I had it out thought I would look at the spark. The plug had spark, but I don't know if it is a good spark. I also saw leakage spark coming off the wire just above the boot,,, Not sure if that is good or not. Put the plug back in, and turned off the lights, and started it up. Seems to run great at idle, and no leak ( I could see ) on the wire with plug installed. Big time confused on which way to go now. Can the wire be replaced or it it a coil change, and can a coil break down under power, but seem good at idle. Carb In other words HELP!!!!
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I just bought Edsets and installed them in my helmet and not entirely happy with the sound. I would like to try using ear bubs with them. The module has a 1/8 port on them. My ear bubs have a 3.5mm plug so they don't fit. Are ear bubs made with an 1/8 plug? Do I need an adaptor? I know some of you will have the answer Thanks,
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I'm beginning to get some antifreeze ooze from the coolant plug next to the right rear sparkplug. I tried to remove it and apply some pipedope or tape but couldn't get it to move. I applied a pretty good arm to it but quit before I broke something. Any suggestions??? Thanks. -
....since you got lucky? She sits across the room from me for the last month lookin all stylish and sexy... ...and today I finally got to "plug her hole." It went in surprisingly smooth....
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I was wondering if anyone has figured out how to bluetooth their CB into a bluetooth intercom (Scala, Chatterbox, or the like)? I have heard you can do it but it will be a listen only. I want the full CB and think I figured out a way to do it. Just wondering if anyone has beaten me to it. I have good news and bad news. In theory this works, however I need to tweak it some. The problem I have run into is with the volume all the way up you can barley hear the cb. When you key up others can barley hear you. I think the problem lies within the size wires we used. I will tweak this in the up coming weeks. So far this is what I have done. Once again this is needs some tweaks. I wanted to be able to use my stock CB unit in conjunction with my Cardo Scala Rider G4 Power Set. It took me some time but I finally completed the task. I made this product for my Dad’s motorcycle (2007 Yamaha Royal Star Venture), but it should work on any intercom system using a standard 5 pin plug as they are wired the same. The Search: I started searching the internet for a solution to this problem and stumbled across this forum and read many people want this same feature. I think as of now the only option is from J&M and the system cost around $1,000USD! I have also seen where some people used store bought adapters (5 pin to 3.5mm adapter) and in doing so discovered they could only hear the CB. The wiring in the store bought adapters will not allow for a microphone input. The Idea: I located wiring diagrams of the stock 5 pin plug and a product called a Blue Tooth Adapter. The Blue Tooth Adapter (BTA from this point forward) I used is the Cardo BTA II (see link below). You can use other brands but be careful in your choice. The BTA is designed to plug into a non-bluetooth phone and allow the phone to connect to another bluetooth device, like a bluetooth ear mic (or in our case motorcycle blue tooth headset). Make sure you DO NOT buy one that is to transmit only! You will need the device to be capable of both transmitting and receiving. You will also need a 5 pin connecter plug (see link below). The Steps (Please if you are not good with wiring or soldering do not attempt this on your own) Once I had the two items I pulled the top of the BTA. Inside the device you will see a battery, a circuit board, and the coiled wire that has the 2.5mm plug attached to the other end. Three wires connect to the circuit board, on mine they were colored white, red and black. The wires were labeled: white is +microphone, the black is the common ground and the red is +speaker. Be sure to take note what color the wires are and what they do (they may be different for your application). With that taken care of you can reseal the unit. The next step was to cut the 2.5mm plug off the end of the wire. Take the bundled wire and strip off the insulating outer cover. This will reveal the 3 wires you noted in the previous step. Strip the insulation off the 3 wires so you have the bare wire exposed. Using the CB 5 pin wiring diagram (see link below) you may now solder the wires to the individual pins in the 5 pin connector plug. Make sure you solder the wires to their respective locations. In my case the white (microphone wire) will be soldered to the pin labeled 1 (see link below), the black (ground wire) is soldered to pins 4 and 2 (see link below) (this will ground the mic and speakers), and the red (speaker wire) is soldered to pins 5 and 3 (see link below) (this will allow you to hear the CB in both ears). Please if you are not good with wiring or soldering do not attempt this on your own. It takes some knowledge, quite a bit of soldering skill and some specialized tools. You have very little room to work and if not wired correctly it will not work properly. Also, if you use other parts or products other than I have I do not know for sure if they will work. I have not tested any other brand BTA’s or other brand headsets at this time. Thank you J. Yates CB 5 pin plug wiring diagram: http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cbwiring.pdf 5 pin plug adapter http://www.frys.com/product/1570803?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG Blue Tooth Adapter: [ame][url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/191-4266561-3880738?a=B000LGUAU8]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/191-4266561-3880738?a=B000LGUAU8[/ame] I will update my next steps in days or weeks to come. Wish me luck. J. Yates -
I've read many threads on changing the clutch fluid. So the Bleeder valve has been removed and an oil pan under the VR with it on the center stand. I pulled on the clutch lever slowly a few times to drain most of the fluid. I opened the Reservoir lid. Now I need to get ready to go to work (job). So my thoughts are the fluid will seek its lowest level and therefore in 24 hours most all the old fluid should have been drained. Was wondering if it would be better to have the clutch lever compressed to the handle bar and tied, or does it matter, Just asking, for I do not know if it matters. Yes, I do have a speed valve to install, and I will use new dot 4 brake fluid. My plans are next morning to start pouring new fluid into the reservoir until fresh fluid is seen coming out the drain plug. After that I plan on using Condor's method of reverse fill the fluid from the drain plug up to get all the air bubbles. Oh any suggestions as to how much dot 4 break fluid to purchase, being that once opened that there is an age factor with break fluid. I don't mind having some extras around but not a lot.
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We went for a ride today and upon our return I smelled antifreeze. I located the leak by the right rear sparkplug around a plug that looked like it could be tightened with a hex key. I tried to tighten the plug but it didn't turn so I backed off until I can find out what this is. My manual is snuggled up in my warm garage in Tennessee and I'm here is sunny, chilly Florida..I'll appreciate any comments. Thanks.
