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Showing results for tags 'passing'.
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:detective:I want to install the factory passing lamps but wish to get them off the ignition switch. Relays have been mentioned and I wanted to know why a relay. Couldn't you wire direct to the accessory post and switch them as intended beside the 12 volt plug? Could some one go over the wiring from the start.
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OK -- I know I saw a thread on replacement bulbs for the passing lights on the RSV 2nd Gens. Darned if I can find it. I just need to know the best, most-liked, awesome bulbs that you guys have seen so I can replace mine. The bulb is not listed inthe parts catalog from Yamaha (at least that I could see). Thanks in advance for your assistance.
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Many of you might not have heard of him, but Dr. Judah Folkman was an amazing individual and we are all diminished by his passing. http://www.reuters.com/article/scienceNews/idUSN1554272820080116?feedType=RSS&feedName=scienceNews http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/cancer/ RIP
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I just purchased and installed H7616 passing lamps on my bike. I like the clean look of the clear lenses but they don't look right with the stock headlight. I have searched for a headlight (sealed beam) with a clear lens but can't find one. Does anyone know of one? I know if I find one I have to break out the original one and goop in the new. That is not a problem.
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I need some suggestions.......I wish to install a passing light kit or lights or whatever on my bike. I normally do not use them as I run on high beam with a modulator during daylight hours and in most states to have the passing lights on with the high beam is illegal. But I do get caught out after dark on occasion.....and would like to know.....what lights light up the road? I want something that will light up a football field!! I do not run heated clothing...and will have only one other accessory, a GPS.......So what lights are the most powerful......and where can I purchase them. Thanks
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Im going to order new passing light bulbs since im going to rewire the passing lights soon. I was also thinking about going to a led bulb. Since I am not disassembling it right now, I need to know what bulb size (type) is in there now so I can have it on hand. Thanks........
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Everybody knows Venture's Chargin system is just not enough for all Accessories and heated clothing, so every Watt count. Thats one of reasons I Didn't install Passing Lamps on my Venture. Well here is Cure. Found This very usefull site with direct replacement LED lights for most daylight passing lamps. They make all kind of LED Bulbs with H3, H4 , H7 and H11 base. They have very resonable prices too. Well Check Out By Yourself. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR Good Luck.
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I remember someone here selling the lowering bracket for 2nd gen passing lights for easier fairing removal. Now I cant seem to find any info on them. Are they still being sold, or does anyone have one they want to sell?
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Hey Guys: Have a Silver 05 RSV, put the star passing lamps on and after a year or so I still don't really like them. I was thinking of putting the Kuryakyn Large bullet lights on the front fender struts. Has anyone done this and how do they feel about them over the "stock" passing lamps? Sponge Bob
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I am still very new to the Venture, have under 2000 miles on my '07 but I have a few questions. 1. Does everyones cruise control when set and you let go of the throttle doe sit doees it drop almost 5MPH before coming back up to speed? 2. I bought a set of passing lamps used that came with the spacer but still cannot get the fairing off without almost completely removing the passing lamp bar, any suggestions on that. 3. How many gallons should there be left when the fuel light comes on, I filled up the other day with the fuel light on and still had 1.9 gallons, 2 fuel bars on the gauge and the reserve ODO came up but I was not on reserve. Thanks in advance for you assistance. I love the bike and look to have it for a very long time, or at least til it's payed off, and they release an update to it that is much better.
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The Yamaha passing lamps were already installed on the 05 venture I purchased. I have some questions still after reading previous posts. 1. The lamps have a toggle switch to kill them completely if desired but are on when the high beam light is on and off when low beam is on. My mechanic just told me that this was illegal in VA. Do you run the passing lamps at the same time as the high beam? or Should I rewire them? 2. One of bulbs is burnt out, what is the best replacement bulb? Is there one brighter than stock and where is the best place to get them? Also, is there a brighter alternative to the headlight bulb while I'm at it? 3. Where can I find a spacer for the passing lamps to get them out from the fairing? I followed a link in a previous post and it said none were available via the classifieds. Thanks
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Hi Guys: Hope all is well with you and your RSV. There was a fella here, who made a spacer for the light bar (passing lamps) for Second Gen bikes. Is he still here? How do I contact? Silly question: Has anybody inverted the lights on the passing lamp bar? Put the directional signal on top and the passing lamps below. I was thinking about it, was wondering if any one had done it. Sponge Bob:confused24:
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Ok, New bike, new world of differents issues, of course I prefer these new problems than the olders. Situation: Get the Star4772 (Joe) 1997 royal star (6300 miles), it comes with mounting passing lamps bar (No passing lamps), wind deflectors hardware (No deflectors included) and installed leather saddlebags and non installed plastic saddlebags. After digging around, got the missing parts: Deflectors, Passing Lamps Not the big deal, now apart from pay the 88$ for the dealer installation someone knows how to align the passing lamps. It seems impossible to relocate the lamps one you mount both the lamp and the turning light on each side. The beam is lighting the floor around 7 to 9 feets on front of the bike. Suggestions???? (Please nothing related to put 88$ on a dealer...)
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One of my passing lamps burned out. Does any one have suggestions as to a good brand replacement and where to buy? The ones I have are el-cheapo lamps. Not very bright. I would like them a bit brighter.
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Greetings from Indiana. New to site and first post. Just had factory passing lamps installed and need to adjust them up. Side to side is no problem but looked at them and it dosent apear they go up without tearing them apart. Suggestions and any info would be appreciated. Great site, have learned alot about my new ride from here. Thanks
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Where can I get wiring diagrams for hooking up OEM passing lights to my 07 RSV?
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Just curious, has anyone used anything other than the Yamaha Passing Lights on their RSV? If so what and how did it work out? Thanks
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Hey All. I've been looking for a pair of passing lamp sealed beams in Halogen to replace the incandescent beams on my '06 RSV. All I can find are 55 watt beams and I'd like to find something in a lower wattage to ease the strain on the stator and yet get more light than I'm getting right now. I'd like beams that will fit the factory Yamaha light buckets. Is this possible or am I looking for something that doesn't exist. Thanks in advance Rod.
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I've read this so many times I can't see it any more. Typos and questions: I'll be glad to correct/explain as needed. How to make your passing lamps modulate when the horn is activated. If they are not already on they will be turned on while the horn is activated. Some information: Headlight modulation is authorized throughout the US by the DOT. It is wise to carry a copy of the law in case you find a LEO who doesn't know this. You can't legally modulate at night, and all modulation must be synchronized unless you're a LEO. Most Diamond Star modules have a Heads Up mode. This causes the attached lights to flash for three seconds when the horn is honked. I wanted my passing lamps to flash as long as I hold down the horn button. As I was finishing this up (I thought.) I did a final check for parts availability. It turns out Signal Dynamics has changed models and the newest one won't work. Some old Diamond Stars might be available, but I'd definitely call and check the number. Because of this I added the instructions for Kisan modules as well. I have not used the Kisans myself. (See Notes 3 and 4 at the bottom for more info.) Schematics follow at the end of the article. 1 – Using a relay to activate the passing lamps. Lamps installed as per Yamaha instructions. 1 normally open horn relay Wire Female lugs Wire loom material Fuse (inline or mini addon fuse block) Remove seat and tank. Split fairing. Run a wire in wire loom from the battery, up the backbone, through the neck, and into the fairing. Use an inline mini fuse or an addon fuse block. Depending on how much of this mod you want to do you may want to run more than one wire. This is a power wire – 12 or 14 gage. This wire goes to 30 on the relay. Find the wire that's patched into the red/yellow high beam wire. Cut this wire between the switch and the passing lights. Place a female lug on the wire that goes to the headlights and put it on 87 on the relay. Place a female lug on the wire that comes from the switch and put it on 85. Run 86 to ground. If you don't care about the modulation and horns you can use some double stick tape, stick the relay to the bulkhead, and stop here. You'll have your passing light powered from the battery, activated by a relay switched only when the power is on. You've also reduced the load on your headlight circuit. 2 – Add a horn activated modulator. 1 Diamond Star modulator #01014 (Follow DS instructions – red to power, red and white to light.) OR 1 Kisan pathBlazer P115W–H3-HD (Follow K - instructions.) 2 horn relays Wire 2 Piggy back lugs (Radio Shack Quick Disconnect Adapter Set 64-3064) Some female lugs Wire loom material. Double stick tape Remove left lower. Remove tank. Loosen/remove neck plastic. Split fairing. Run two signal wires (16 or 18 gage) in wire loom up from the area of the horn, through the neck, and into the fairing. If you are retaining the stock horn, solder/crimp piggyback lugs to the wires and place on horn. Place plug on piggyback. If you're removing the stock horns use standard male lugs. Put the lugs into the horn plug. Toss the horn. http://s_bumgardner.home.comcast.net/lowerfairing.jpg (horn area of lower) From the front of the bike run the horn signal wires to your right. Give yourself a foot of wire or so to work with and trim, then add a female lug to each wire. In order to keep some of the wiring under control I made a harness for the relay set. I used double stick tape to stick the relays together side by side, then placed lugs on each 85 and 86. I routed the wires that go to the front connectors toward the back next to the other wire. Once everything was in place I crimped the lugs onto the wires, and wrapped the wire sets with electrical tape in strategic spots. I put male lugs on the ends of the two wires. http://s_bumgardner.home.comcast.net/relays.jpg (Relays and wiring harness) Plug the two male lugs from the relay harness into the females on the horn signal wires. First relay – doesn't matter which. DS - Cut the toggle switch off of the modulator, leaving the wire. Solder a female lug to each wire. Hook these to 30 and 87a. K – Cut the red wire on the light sensor wire set and splice in enough signal wire to reach the relay. Solder a female lug to each new wire. Hook these to 30 and 87. Cut your passing lamp power wire between its switching device (switch or relay) and the lamps. Install the Diamond Star or pathBlazer module on this wire as per its instructions. Decision time: Do you want the lights to flash at night? Technically this is probably illegal. The main headlight may not modulate after dark. Period. These however are passing/auxiliary lamps flashing when you honk the horn. Their use presupposes an emergency wherein I want the clown about to run me over to notice I'm there and change his mind. I don't care how the DOT feels about it. If you decide to have them flash at night you need to: DS - cut the sensor off, then solder the wires together and insulate the end, then tape it out of the way. K - mount the sensor where it receives light from the headlight. The pathBlazer uses an adjustable sensor, so cutting it off probably won't work. If you want the light to not flash at night follow the standard sensor mounting instructions for each. I mounted the one for my headlight in the plastic piece at the bottom of the fork, toward the back, pointing down. There's room for two. I removed the sensor for the passing lamp modulator. http://s_bumgardner.home.comcast.net/lightsensor.jpg (Sensor placement) Pick a second relay. Splice into the light power wire before the existing switch/relay. Run this wire to 30. Splice into the light power wire after the existing switch/relay and run this wire to 87. http://s_bumgardner.home.comcast.net/relayswired.jpg (Relays - from left: Horn - Headlight modulation - Passing light modulation - Passing light power with horn. Separate - Switched passing lamp power for normal operation.) Use double sided tape to stick the relays and modulators to the bulkhead. If you're doing the horn and/or headlight modulator, save this step for later. http://s_bumgardner.home.comcast.net/relaysinplace.jpg (Relays in place on front right, lower bulkhead) You can stop here, your passing lamps will now flash when you honk the horn. If they are not turned on, the second relay will turn them on while the horn is activated. Power on, test, and button up. 3 - You can add a set of Fiamm Extra Loud electric horns inside the fairing. Just add another relay in parallel with the others (85 and 86), then use this to power the horns. The Fiamms will fit inside the fairing. The supplied mounting brackets must be attached to the radio mounting bracket, one on each side. The brackets must be massaged to get the horns to fit without touching the fairing. I used two of the mounting brackets on each horn to get good strength. One seemed too weak. You may find that the upper bolts yield a better position than the lower bolts. Run a fused wire from the battery to 30 on its relay, then from 87 to both horns. Ground the horns to the radio framework. http://s_bumgardner.home.comcast.net/horns.jpg (Fiamm horns) Parts for this: 1 set of Fiamm Extra Loud electric horns (132 db) 1 horn relay A couple more lugs A bit more wire 4 - You can also add a headlight modulator on the high beam. If you do, add another relay to the horn circuit, same as above. You will need to turn off the headlight modulator when the passing lamps are modulating. DS - Cut the toggle switch off the headlight modulator and add lugs. Put these on 30 and 87. It'll turn off the headlight modulator while the passing lamps are flashing. K – Cut the red wire to the light sensor and add two wires with female lugs on the ends. Route these to 30 and 87a. This will turn off the headlight modulator while the passing lamps are flashing. Parts for that: A Diamond Star module installed to the high beam as per instructions (red to power source, red and white to light). OR A pathBlazer P115W–H3-HD module installed to the high beam as per instructions. 1 horn relay A couple more lugs A little more wire If you didn't stick it all to the bulkhead earlier, now's the time. Power up, test, and button everything up. Note 1: I went to Pep Boys, in the horn department, and found good quality relays for three bucks each. They have both normally open and normally closed terminals. I've found low end relays with 87a cut off. These will work for all but one place on the Diamond Star install. The relays used on lighting systems cost five bucks each and all require a fancy harness and plug to remain fully rigid. Used without the plug these relays can be activated by moving the wires attached to the switch lugs. Note 2: If you get the Fiamms from this place, you'll get a five lug relay and all the rest of the stuff you need to add the horns. Note 3: Any Kisan pathBlazer will probably work for the main headlight. All you need to be able to do is interrupt the signal from the light sensor. I contacted Kisan and a tech there verified that opening the sensor circuit would cause the modulator to return the light to solid operation. That's what we want. Note 4: Newer Diamond Star modulators (#01013) will not work. If it hooks up to a single light and has a switch, and/or light sensor, it should work. Bear in mind that the Diamond Star module # 01014 modulates when the switch is OFF and stays on solid when the switch is ON. The Kisans modulate when ON and stay on solid when OFF. In other words, if it flashes at the wrong time move 87/87a to the other. (Schematics) http://s_bumgardner.home.comcast.net/circuitDScolorFinal.jpg (Diamond Star #01014) http://s_bumgardner.home.comcast.net/circuitKisanColorFinal.jpg (Kisan pathBlazer)
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Help! I am installing the RSTD passing lamps and bracket from Yamaha onto my 2006 RSTD. On the old turn-signal bracket, there is a threaded boss that is used to attach the bottom headlight mount screw. But, on the replacement piece that holds both turn signals and passing lamps, there is nothing for the bottom of the headlight to screw to! So it's just hanging and kinda flopping around on the two top screws and their fairly spongy rubber mounts. Has anyone already made up a bracket to fill this gap? Have a picture? I am not a fabricating sort of a guy...... Any help would be appreciated! Thanks, Bob LeDuc -
I'm hearing that some riders install a "relay" when they upgrade to other passing lamps -- what does a relay do? DREBBIN (the electrically challenged)
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As near as I can gather from threads here, I can use a H7616 bulb to replace the poor bulbs that came in my Yamaha passing lamps. Also if I understand correctly, I see some refere to this bulb as a H3 -- but it is not halogen, right? Bottom line -- I can't find the H7616 at JP cycles. Anyone got another source suggestion? Many thnx, DREBBIN
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Anyone here tried this product: Garage Door Opener: http://www.autoswitch.com/2006/models/as5pg2/as5pg2_index.shtml. Sounds like a very useful item. Maybe this one, too: Passing Lamps: http://www.autoswitch.com/2006/models/as5p/as5p_index.shtml for turning on/off the passing lamps.
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Ya'll may recall my brand new 07 RSV was not holding a charge. I got to the dealer on SAT where they installed a new batt -- and I followed the sageful advice of this forum -- had a Kury voltmeter installed. Here are the results: SAT 10 FEB - Rode from dealer to home, 25 miles - Voltmeter had 1 solid green light - No Heated gear, no passing lamps - Hooked up batt tender -- went to 80% immediately - Took 2.5 hrs to go to 100% SUN 11 FEB - Rode 50 miles - With Heated jacket & gloves - No passing lamps - 1 Solid green light on voltmeter - STOPPED & FUELED - Turned on Passing lamps & ran heated gear - Voltmeter went into FLASHING green then into AMBER - Turned off heated gear - Voltmeter went back to 1 solid green - Turned on hi beam (passing lamps on too) - Voltmeter maintained 1 solid green - Turned off lamps & hi beam - Turned heated gear back on - Voltmeter stayed solid green for last 47 miles Hooled up to battery tender -- went solid green in just under 20 minutes So....darn it....it's true you cannot run jacket, gloves & passing lamps. Thnx to all who helped me. So I can add one more thing to what I miss about the Gold Wing -- power. DREBBIN
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You may recall my posts eralier this week regarding my battery on my RSV going dead after only a 160 mile ride, using heated gear & passing lamps. I decided to run 2 tests this weekend -- looks to me like my new RSV is not charging the batt -- TEST ONE - SAT 3 FEB (fully charged batt) TEMP = 30 degrees DISTANCE = 100 miles AVG SPEED = 50mph PASSING LAMPS = YES GERBING GEAR = YES, Jacket & gloves (@50%) Upon return I hooked up the battery tender -- it took 5.5 hrs to get to solid green light, full charge. (( Jacket = 6.4 amps, 77 watts; Gloves = 2.2 amps, 27 watts)) TEST TWO - SUN 4 FEB (fully charged batt) TEMP = 30 degrees DISTANCE = 100 miles AVG SPEED = 52 mph PASSING LAMPS = YES GERBING GEAR = None Upon return I hooked up the battery tender -- it went to flashing green in 30 seconds (80% charge) -- it took 2.5 hrs to get to solid green light, full charge. For certain, there is a bigger drain using heated gear. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY -- this system is not charging the battery. This is my 6th bike and with the exception of the evil HD from hell, none of them came back in the garage from a ride with an un-charged battery. So, I guess it's time to have the dealer put in that new battery? Your opinions appreciated, DREBBIN
