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Showing results for tags 'fuse'.
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Does anyone have a good suggestion (pictures?) on where to mount an auxiliary fuse box? I'm going to clean up my wiring. I have heated grips, driving lights and a Deltran battery charger. I'm thinking of mounting this one on top of my existing stock fuse box. It is almost the same size and thin. I'll only use four of the eight fuse positions though (one for light switch). http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html
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I am having a couple of problems on my 1989 Venture Royale. The first problem is the headlight. Works like a champ on high beam, but when you switch to low, it is very dim, and the warning light comes on. About 2 months ago, while driving home at night, the headlight stopped working. I assumed a blown fuse. After pulling the top off of the fuse box, I found that the fuse was not blown, but the plastic fuse box had been melted near the fontact points, and the contacts were burnt and broken. The next day, I bought a new fuse panel, and replaced the old glass fuses with ATM blade style fuses. After I rewired the box and installed all the fuses, everything worked perfect. About 2 weeks later, the low beam went very dim. Checked and changed the fuse, but still very dim. High beam is perfect. I am also getting a brake fluid light and I have checked the fluid many times. There is no problem with the fluid level, or the brake system. I have had 2 motorcycle mechanics verify this. Also, the computer leveling system is not working. When the key is switched to Acc. the system appears to try to turn on, and then I see what looks like an error code that says E4 and then the screen fades out and seems to lose power. in the corner it still reads PSI in very small letters. I have checked the power to the unit, and it is good. I unplugged the connector to the back of the unit and plugged it back in, and it still does the same thing. I cleaned the connectors, still no success. Then I held pressure on the back of the connector, and it worked. I was able to adjust the system with both automatic and manual settings. However as soon as I let go of the connector, it would turn back off. Any help with these 2 problems would be great. I have seen many posts about re-soldering cold joints, and I have thought about trying this. However, I was wondering if anybody might know a step by step on how to do this. Also, does anybody have pictures of these joints and what I am looking for. Thanks in advance for everybodys help. -
Two questions: One! after riding through a downpour at night my headlight quit. I replaced the fuse and saw a "flash" when I turned the ignition on. Headlight still worked on low beam but high beam is dim and brings on the headlight warning light and the CM blinks, the fuse is fine. Could this just be the bulb being bad (it looks OK)? Two! Trying to find a possible bad contact for the above I pulled the headlight, apparently the PO had a "accesory" hooked into a tan #10 wire under the panel. the accesory wire wasn't capped or taped of when he cut it, and it hit the headlight frame. Nothing works!!, All fuses in the fuse panel are OK, I know there should be some other fuse somewhere, but I can't find it. Do I need to pull the entire fairing? Do I need to look for something else? Oh, that was bright! Found that one on top of the battery! For some reason I thought it was down under the fairing! so that answers that, next question though is: Where do I get a new one??
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As you may know I recently changed the rear tire. Took both bags off and had to disconnect the CD player. Now I have no audio. All other electrics seem to be fine. I disconnected the CD player and still no audio. Checked the "audio" fuse (behind the lower fairing) and it is good. Any thoughts? I thought I may have shorted something, but apparently since the fuse is good that is not the case. Just thought this may have happened to someone else. Thanks.
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hey guys, I'm having a problem of something running the batt. down over a period of 2-3 days if I don't start the bike or put in on a batt. maintainer. I have run it down to one of the blade type fuses in the fuse box that is located to the right front of the batt. location. It is a 15 amp fuse, but I can't find any info as to what circuit that fuse controls. It never blows the fuse, just runs the batt. down. If anyone knows what circuit that fuse controls, I could sure use the info. Thanks in advance. Don H .
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My bike failed to crank and what I found was the fuse on the side of the starter silenoid was corroded, more than likely from road salt from being ridden in north Ga. What I did was removed the silenoid assem. removed the plastic peice that hold the fuse and the wiring harness plug, then pulled the metal prongs the fuse and plug mounts to out, the top peiced that bolts to the hot side of the silenoid I removed completely. Bought a fused link ( heavy duty $3.99 at oriely's) soidered a electrical end on one end of the link, and the other end to the spot where the fuse plugged to the blades that the wiring plug connects to. You have to grind some of the plastic away to put the blades back in. But now my fuse is behind ths side cover, and easy to access. I should have taken pictures but was in a hurry to get the bike running. if anyone else is having this problem and wants to perform this fix let me know and I will try to draw a diagram, or come help if your close enough. Gregg
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OK I need an electrician to help me out here. Half the house is out of power. I already changed the main fuses for the house. There's two of them and their the long round solid ones. I can get pics if you guys need them to understand what I'm talking about. The problem seems to be in one of the fuses. Everytime I try changing it, it pops. First time it did it was a bit of a shock to me. I was hoping that it would be ok. I have to go around and make sure I unplugged everything in those rooms. That's gonna take a bit since I have to crawl under the bed in the spare room with a flashlight and get the stuff out under it to get to the outlet. I've gotten most of the stuff unplugged. I need to know what else to do. Can the socket for the fuse go bad? If so I can get another one, I think. I'll check the local places for that stuff. Actually I'll add the pics of what the fuses look like while I'm doing this now. The first one is one of the main fuses it has two. The second is one of the fuse type that keeps blowing on me. It's a 20amp. Oh I already tried picking Riderdukes brain. He's gonna think a bit more on this for me too. Thanks guys I appreciate this. Margaret
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This is all new to me,I just bought my 85 three months ago.I really like riding it but now have a problem with one of the clips that holds the head light fuse.It has broken! Iam not to sure what to do with this problem.I have just started to read post from other members about a fuse box up grade.Maybe this is what I should be doing?Were should I look for this ,is there a member that has done this that maybe can help me with some writen directions?............Thanks..........Stan
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My first few days with my ’85 VR and I am trying to work out all the gremlins. I am off to buy the Deka ETX18L battery today as it was obvious that the old battery is not holding up very well. I have a few questions. 1- Is it common to have constant power to the accessory fuse with key off? With key off and hooking up volt meter to ground of battery and accessory fuse I am seeing 8.53 volts, when switch is turned on this jumps to 12 volts. What does this fuse operate? I unplug fuse and everything seems to work fine without it. 2- I followed the directions in the post to override/fool the battery sensor by wiring in a resister however this did not work for me at all I tried both the 1kw and 2.2kw just like the post recommended but neither of them worked for me. Has anyone been able to get this to work? 3- What is the quick and easy way to restore the look of the black plastic panels surrounding the radio and other control panels? I am not ready to tear bike apart just yet so re painting is not an option. Unless you all tell me there is no other option then maybe masking the bike off and painting could be done sooner than later. -
Fuse Block Clearance?
Yamaha4ever posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hey guys. I am in the process of making a new fuse block from the glass fuse holders found at your local Radio Shack, but I think I might have a clearance issue. The original fuse block is short so it fits comfortably under the "Gas Tank" cover. I bought a small water proof case to mount the fuses in but I don't know if the case will clear under there, because I don't have the "Gas Tank" Cover to snap over it. (It's in storage) Can someone please tell me approximately how many inches I have to work with under there and how tall the fuse block case can be once bolted down. I'm gonna use the old bolt holes. Thank you so much for your help on this! Chris -
Hi everyone. Just left for a 6k run and I'm I have a bad ground somewhere on the #5 "signal" fuse. This just happened. The first 1k was fine. The bike ran fine and charges fine.With the key on(engine off, the volt meter is way down. Around 9 volts. When I hit the brake, the gauge goes up to normal. With the engine on, the voltmeter stays at the very low voltage and when I hit the brake, the gauge goes up to 13 or so. Usually, the gauge shows 14+ with the motor running. Testing my trailer lights, the fuse blew. With nothing connected, the fuse is hotter than hell.On the bordeline of blowing. What all is attached to the "signal"fuse? What should I start disconnecting? Overall, the lights are fine, cranks strong, runs fine. But this fuse is going to blow and I'm afraid if I take off, I'll burn up the stator cuz something is drawing a lot. Please Help! Thanks! -
I like to keep things neat, especially wiring; my question for others is: Where do you have your passing lamp circuit grounded? All the way back to the fuse block? battery? headlight surrounds? Thanks for the input (just curious here).
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I need some help! my power outlet has no power i do not know which fuse supplies the power , also need a wiring diagram of this outlet
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I have been stumped for about 1 week now. One sunny day I was riding home from work and my radio just cut out....no power to the tuner where the volume control is. After tracking down which fuse it was, I found that the 10 amp fuse behind the side cover...aka backup fuse, was blown. I figured it was probably an original fuse, changed it out and it worked fine for about 1 week. Then one day it blew shortly after starting, while idleing. So being suspicious I was careful to watch while I put in the new fuse. With the key in the off position I noticed the fuse was arcing while I inserted the fuse....wierd....tried to see if the radio worked by turning the key to acc position...worked fine....turned the key to the on position with the radio on and everything ok....hit the start button and lost radio power. All I can think is that the ignition switch is shorting out??? ANYONE EVER RUN INTO THIS? Please shoot me your ideas or experiances!!!! Thanks, Big Mike:think::think::think::think::think:
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Went for one of those rides this afternoon, the one where you are making a run to the store and then you are 20 miles from home on a back road. Well, as I came to a stop on a hill at a stop sign, the bike died instantly and all lights go off. I turn the switch off and back on and had nothing. I coast the bike back to a level place away from the intersection and pull the top cover. I used my ohm/volt meter and the battery was good, so I checked across the main fuse and got no voltage. I pulled the fuse apart and it was blown bigtime. I used a #16 jumper wire across the fuse and turned the switch back on and everything powered up. I figured if it was still a dead short to ground, the #16 wire would give me a second to check it and would act like a fuse. Since that seemed to work ok, I took the fuse apart and stuck the eyelet terminal into the slot on the wire from the battery and it fit snug. I again started the bike and everything worked ok. Since it was looking like rain and everything was working, I decided to strap the cover to the trunk and take off toward home as it would be real easy to pull the wire apart if something happened.. The bike ran perfect all the way home. So, now the bike is sitting out in the garage with the terminal pulled apart and I have no idea what caused the fuse to blow. The two screws that hold the fuse in place were tight, so that was not the problem. I guess I will have to pull fairings and see if I can find a ground point and I also will need another fuse. Anyone got a suggestion on where to get a fuse, I think it is a 40 amp? RandyA
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Bike: 1988 1st Gen Class System Done: Resoldered pins swapped for the working unit in my '86 There doesn't seem to any electric power to the unit at all. I started doing the electric troubleshooting as listed in the repair manual 7-91. No readings above .001VDC. The book indicates that there is a fuse going to the unit. Does anyone know which fuse box and which fuse within. I did check the ACC fuse in the box on top of the battery and it is working correctly. I really appreciate any direction available. Dave -
I had to replace my headlight fuse this evening. went ot start it for a little ride just after dark and no ligghts. No headlight, tail light, no passing lamp lights. I replaced the 15amp fuse and all seems well. I did "upgrade" my headlight several weeks ago and had no problem until today. Anyone else have any thoughts? I sure don't want to take off and have it go out in the middle of a night time ride. I will carry a couple of extra fuses but now I am going to worry until time passes some.
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OK I can turn a wrench but I am a electrical Idiot!!!! When I install driving lights on my 85 do I need a relay?? Why and what does it do?? Where does it go?? Was planning on wiring directly to battery thru a fuse to a switch. Horns I have came with relay maybe they will help me to understand.
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Those of you who have installed the Yamaha passing lamps may want to inspect the OEM glass fuse holder that is part of the wiring harness that comes with the lamps. I installed these lamps on my 06 RSTD this spring. I just completed a thousand kilometer vacation trip last week and had no problems, but last Sunday on a day trip I noticed my passing lamps were no longer working. The fused power lead was connected to the wiring harness inside the headlight housing so that is the first placed I checked. I discovered that the nylon OEM glass fuse holder had melted where the bottom of the glass fuse makes contact with the lower contact point. Fortunately the nylon fuse holder was tough enough to restrict the damage to the fuse holder housing itself and none of the other wires around it were damaged, but I had to use Channellock pliers to get it apart. I have since replaced the glass fuse holder with an automotive ATO fuse holder c/w weatherproof rubber cap. I also noted that the OEM glass fuse is rated at 10 amps whichs seems a bit high for the two lights that it powers. The red power lead looks a little thin for 10 amps. I have reduced the rating of the new ATO fuse to 5 amps and everything works just fine.
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Has anyone tried to use a 12V tire inflator powered from the faring accessory output? I have heard that they will blow the fuse.
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can some on tell me where the fuse for the cigerette lightes is? it does not seem to be in the fuse bow under the seat. Also what is the max fuse it would be safe to use
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My eyes are starting to get really tired from looking at almost 20 pages of posts about GPS hookups, 12 volt power outlets, hooking direct to battery, not doing that, fuse, no fuse, etc, etc. I have a 2005 RSTD. Here's my question: The aux DC terminal under the seat has a brown lead and a black lead, the 12 volt power outlet has a red wire and white wire. Does it matter which color is hooked to what? Also, is the aux DC terminal already fuse protected? Just want to make sure I do this right because I still have 47 payments left on the bike Seems like a simple question but I have been told that I often do the simple things with a deal of difficulty.
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Hi All: Well, I think the fuse went on the cigarette lighter. I was using a pump to put air in the tires. It started to go then stopped. Pump works fine from my car lighter but will not work from the cycle. I understand from the manual that the fuse is under the cowl on the right side of the cycle as you are sitting on it. There are two screws (torx) and one on the bottom. I can't seem to break the two torx screws loose and didn't want to apply too much pressure for fear I would break something. Has anyone had to get into their fuse box on a 2009 Venture? I can always wait till I take it back for the 600 mile check and let them check it out, but it would be nice if I could replace a fuse Thanks in advance for the info.
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Am stumped I am trying to find a place to mount a fuse block on my 09 RSV. I had originally purchased a Blue Sea fuse block but it was way too big to put under the drivers seat. I then purchased a smaller unit from Centech which is an AP-2. It is smaller and has some great features but I still cannot find a proper mounting space. It can be jammed in behind the battery but it will rub and I don't feel comfortable with that. Am looking for ideas.. Where have you place a fuse box on your bike? Thanks, -
in the rain a few days ago on my way home from work I heard a loud POP! and the lights went out when i got home i checked and sure as heck the fuse was shot so i changed it out and then i had high beams only so the other day i had some time after work and checked out the simple stuff in the headlight bucket all ok fuse block ok and wires i could see without getting into the harness so i took it to the dealer after work yesterday and sure as heck it was the dimmer switch went POP so they wired my lights for the passing lamps to stay on all the time and my bright too! cool eh so now i have lights and they had to order a new dimmer FREE! to me as the little 05 Vstar classic is still under warranty yup im lovin it today:smile5: Dray
