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Summer is just around the corner and I have been giving some consideration to removing the front cowling. The only hesitation I have is what to do with the air filters. My question to all you much more intelligent wrenches is, can I remove the cowling without damage to the engine and what to do with the air intake? Can I modify this somehow? I have been unable to find any type of velocity stack or hyper charger to put in its place. Any thoughts or ideas, even if you all say it can not be done, is appreciated. BTW, I have the air defectors on the bike already. Works great when the temps are around 80 to 90. When we hit the triple digits, especially on the new asphalt roads, they don't seem as effective.
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Under the bike ('06 RSTD) on the port side there are four tubes that vent stuff overboard. Starting from the first tube (closest to the front) and ending with the last tube (farthest aft), can anyone tell me exactly what each puke tube does? TIA.
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Started polishing the front wheel tonight. I think about 5 hours and 20 bucks will get it as close to chrome as it can be without the chrome cost. Lower part was done in about 30 minutes Used a course steelwool then a fine and finally the Diamond Brite Truck box polish from Lowes. You can see the results in the pics. I did not do the painted part and probably won't as you can hardly see it with the hub cap on.
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Graphic Equalizer in place of Cassette. Submitted by John Richie Most of the credit for this installation process goes to Kevin Wisor who brought up the topic back in Dec 06. I am providing the steps with photos. The 7 band graphic equalizer is the Pyramid Model 403G, $25.00 at www.etronics.com, advertised as 100 watt amp with a 12 db boost for each band. Dimensions are 4.8"W x 4.75"D x 1"H. The new sound is an improvement over factory, especially if you boost all of the bands, but is only for the speakers, not the headset. This setup disables the cassette player and removes the connector for the CD player (attached to cassette circuit board). The equalizer fits perfectly in the original case for the factory cassette player, but does require modifying the face plate to accept the front of the equalizer. Removal of the cassette player also removes the factory AUX plug, so run an extension line from the factory head unit to a new location on the inner fairing. The speakers work both with the power turned on or off for the equalizer. Installation requires tapping into the speaker wiring harness, as the equalizer needs an output source from the factory amplifier. I cut the wires from the front left/right speaker harness, and used as the left and right “output” as shown on the electrical connection diagram. These go to the “input” on the equalizer. Run new wires to all speakers from the equalizer. Since I could not locate the rear speaker wire in the front fairing harness, I just ran new wires to the rear speaker(s). This disengages the factory fader control on the handlebar remote, but the equalizer has a fader control for the front to rear. The basic installation steps follow, with photos: Remove (split) the Front Fairing. Remove headlight assembly. Remove the brackets holding the stereo head unit, move head unit to left side (out of the way). Remove the four mounting bolts for the cassette deck, and remove the two screws that hold the cassette face plate to the inner fairing. Unplug AUX line and cassette deck wire connector. Keep the cassette deck front door closed for removal of cassette unit from the inner fairing. Carefully (toward the front of the bike) pull the cassette unit out of the inner fairing. Photo of cassette deck. Cut clear protective tape, remove the two lid screws, and lift the top from the deck. NOTE: Do NOT remove the side screws that hold the door assembly! Bottom: remove screws, clamps, and remove the cassette works (mounted with four rubber shock mounts). Pull off the rubber grommet protecting the rear deck wires and reuse when installing the equalizer. Also, I used the connector cap for the CD connector to cap off the original wiring harness connector for the cassette deck. Measure and cut the face plate of the cassette housing to allow mounting of the equalizer. Carefully cut the plastic face plate with a Dremel. The equalizer should be pushed into the face plate enough to use the fader and power button, but not too far or the front door will not close properly. The cut area should be made to fit between the top lip and the 2 fairing mount screw holes at the bottom of the cassette plastic face plate. After I did the rough grinding, I carefully used a small file to fine tune the cut area until the equalizer fit snugly in the face plate. Final mounting of the equalizer in the housing. I did not use the supplied mounting brackets for the equalizer, but instead removed the side screws from the equalizer box, drilled a hole on each side of the cassette housing, and mounted the equalizer with a metric machine screw on each side. The equalizer is held in the front by the plastic face plate and on the sides by the two mounting screws. Re-use the rubber grommet from the cassette deck wires to mount the wires from the equalizer on the rear slot of the housing. Re attach the top lid to the cassette housing and cover with clear packing tape to protect from water damage. Make sure that the door opens and closes properly. Reinstall the equalizer/cassette housing unit in the inner fairing, and again check the door for smooth operation. Disconnect the wire to the rear speaker(s) and run a new set under the seats and gas tank to the front fairing. Since I removed the trunk from my RSV, I only use one speaker in the rear, mounted between the bars of the passenger back support. For those with the trunk, the factory configuration uses only one set of wires for the two rear speakers (mono sound), so now is your chance to run two sets of wires, one to each rear speaker, for true stereo sound in the rear. Hook up all of the wiring for the equalizer using the supplied wiring diagram. Turn on the key, power up the equalizer, and check that all is well. Re-mount the front fairing and enjoy. Thanks, John Richie
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Anybody know if the J & M JMHS8146OF headsets would work with a modular flip front helmet? I know they are made for an open face helmet but I was wondering if any one tried the headset with a fuul face or flip front. I have 3 different helmets and I am hoping this will work with all 3. Thanks.
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Yamaha Chrome Metal Fender Tips need help
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Hello everybody I' d like some help. i just bought front fender chrome metal tips , the front and rear , the number i order is the exact one for the 2006 tour deluxe i tried to installed the front and it seems to small to fit to the fender i have pushed to hard and scratched the front fender oups$!@# is there someone who have installed it.i 'd appreciate tips to installed them the installation sheet seems wrong thank you -
Submitted by bbstacker: ok, actually it was easier than I thought it would be, if you just jack up the front of the bike so the wheel is off the ground it is easier. first the front half of the fairing comes off, you have the small chrome strip on top with 2 screws, then you have 7 more for the front half of the fairing, 6 on the back and 1 under the headlight, then the windshield, 8 small screws holding that on. Once you have the front half of the fairing off, you may have to unplug just a few of the cables, I did the bigger round ones, because once you take out 2 nuts that hidden behind all the cables, once you get those off, you can pull the other half of the fairing away from the triple tree. Now you need to make sure you have a good pad laying across your tank for your handle bars to rest on. There 2 allen bolts on the front side of the triple that hold the bracket on for the fairing, take off the handle bars, then the big nut and washer holding the top of the triple tree. Just loosen the 4 bolts (2 on each side)used to clap the top part of the triple tree to the forks, take the top part off, you then can slide the 2 top fork covers off, there will be a big washer and rubber gasket inside. Before you loosen the 4 (2 on each side) bolts on the bottom part of the triple tree, make sure you mark where the forks are set, so you can measure up 1 inch from that mark down to top side of the bottom of the triple tree,once all the bolts are loose the forks will probably slide on you. All you have to do is either slide the forks up or down to get your 1 inch, lock one side then measure and lock the other side, put the covers back on making sure you put the washer and rubber gasket in correctly, put the top of the triple tree back on,then the washer and nut, tighten that then reinstall the 2 allen bolts, everything is just in reverse putting it back together. All this may sound complicated but trust me it is not, it's about a two hour job, that is unless you get it back together and forget to put the two forks covers back on like I did and have to take it apart again. I didn't take any pictures, I should have. As far as the kickstand, no problem, bike still leans on it the same just shorter, I will say the bike comes up on center way easier also. If you find you don't like it it's easy to change it back, myself, no way will I change it back. I have 40 lbs of air in the shock, I ride 2up and pull a trailer, (one that I made)and no the pipes don't drag. Hope this explains it well enough, if not send me an email and I'll try and do a better job. I would find a hard time believing you won't like the new ride. Good luck, any questions be sure to email me, I've been riding for over 40 years and do most of my own maintenance and all of my own mods. Hey I know this isn't for everyone, but that's what choices are all about. Take care and ride safe. Picture courtesy of Rosebud.
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Can anyone help me with this? I've replaced my rear turn signals with LED clusters & installed a load equalizer to correct the flash rate. Yesterday I replaced the front running/turn lights with LED clusters as well, but after installing another load equalizer to keep the flash rate correct, the flash rate is double what it should be. Is there a specific location I need to put the load equalizer? Does it need to be somewhere inside the fairing? The first one is on the rear side of the harness under the seat. I put the other one on the other side of the harness, but it doesn't work there. I'm obviously not putting it in the right place. Any help with solving this is deeply appreciated. Thanks.
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About a year ago I picked up 3 pairs of brake pads for future use off Ebay. Hey..the price was right. Anyway, lately I'd been getting a little chattering noise out of the right front caliper, and since I had the the front tire off and down to the store for warantee work, I thought I'd go ahead and toss in another set of pads. Well..... I took out a set of pads and they wouldn't fit. Close, but no cigar.... The width was a few thousands over tolerance, and the thru holes were a few thousands undersized. I did a little shade tree adjusting on them and finally got them to slide in, but they still didn't feel right. I held one up to the the EBC pads I had just removed, and the radius at the bottom was right on on one end and off on the other. 'Bout then I went on down to my local shop and picked up another set of EBC's. They slipped right in. They might have cost more, but I have a lot more confidence in their working. I actually still had a record of the Ebay sale and fired off a email to the seller...he's still actively selling... warning him about possible liability issue. We'll see how he handles it. Just thought other members would like to know about my experience with non-major brand pads on Ebay.
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I have read a lot of posts here and on other forums about accidents between motorcycles and cages, most of the time the incident is blamed on the cage. The most common comment is that the cage driver says the he did not see the motorcycle. This affliction can be caused by any number of things. The flavor of the day is CELLPHONE. While there are a lot of reasons why a cage driver doesn’t see a motorcycle there some things that you the rider can do to make sure that you are not one of those reasons. 1. Ride to be seen. Where you ride on the road makes all the difference in whether or not you can be seen. On a two-lane road or highway, if you are not riding close to the centerline you are invisible. Try this, next time you are on the road and there is a good sized vehicle coming toward you with a smaller vehicle behind it, watch that trailing vehicle as it weaves back and forth in its lane. Even a car or SUV can become invisible behind a larger vehicle. If you are riding too close to the vehicle in front of you, you are invisible. This is especially bad at intersections on a busy street. If you are too close behind a car and there is a car that the driver is anxious to make a left and there is a gap between the car in front of you and one behind you that the turning car thinks he can make, he WILL not see you on your motorcycle. But if you are at least a couple of CAR lengths behind and in the left wheel track then the driver has a chance to see you. Whenever I approach an intersection and am behind a vehicle I position myself for maximum visibility, I sit tall in the saddle and look directly at the turning driver. This method I have found draws the driver’s attention to me. When riding on multi-lane roads and highways the riding area changes with traffic and requires due diligence on the riders part, in California where splitting traffic is allowed, I found that the safest place to be on the freeways was the white line between the two farthest left lanes. I hope that one day splitting traffic is legal in all states. California aside, multi-lane highway traffic varies and it is up to the rider to determine where he is the most visible. I have found that if I am traveling a long distance on a busy highway that the fast lane is the best place to be, I ride next to the white line between lanes. I do this so that I am visible to any vehicle around me. If there are two cars ahead side by side and two behind side by side you now can be seen by all four vehicles. This also has the affect of giving you an exit in case someone does something stupid. If a cage decides that your lane is greener than his, instead of veering left and possibly running into a k-rail or into the median, with a little throttle and slight adjustment of direction you can split between the vehicles ahead of you. Although it may be illegal, if it saves your life, who cares. 2. Ride aware. (Leave plenty of space around you.) If you are aware of the traffic around you, then you are much safer. You can avoid incidents just by watching the traffic around you. If you scan your mirrors every few seconds then you will be hard to surprise from behind. If you watch the driving habits of those in front of you, you can avoid most incidents ahead of you. If there is a driver that is driving steadily and he swerves a little and comes back in line then there may be a road gator or some other small obstruction ahead. Not too dangerous for a car but could be bad for a MC. If he slams on his brake and swerves then look for a path that will take you away from the hazard while looking to see if it was an animal that may travel into your path. This is a good time to mention that the brake is not always your best friend, sometimes the best way out of trouble is the accelerator. I guess an example of that statement is in order. I had just bought my VR and was riding it home from Tennessee on I40. There were several tractor-trailer rigs in front of me in the right hand lane. As I was approaching the rear one he turned on his signal to move into my lane, I slowed down to let him over, as he passed the second rig he hit a two by four and threw it up in the air, there was a rig to my right and no where to go to the left. I saw that the board would fall before my front tire and accelerated so that I would go over it before it had a chance to bounce back up. It had the affect of breaking my exhaust collector, but it may have bounced up and hit the fairing or worse, me. Animals are some of the most unpredictable objects you can encounter on any road. There is one very important thing to note about animals and that is if they are frightened, as by a vehicle on the road, their instinct is to get in front of the danger and try to out run it. So if you see a cow, deer or… on the side of the road there is a good chance that, even if it had no intention of crossing the road, your approach will cause it to panic and run in front of you. So the best defense is to slow down when you first see the animal and give it a chance to cross. We also know that animals can run on the road from a totally invisible area and be a complete surprise. This again is where the accelerator and not your brake could be your best friend. Any of us who have ridden dirt bikes knows that if there is an obstruction in front of you that you either have to get the front wheel off the ground or at least unload it, take the weight off of it, if you want to go over the object. If there is no chance of not hitting an animal up to deer size then accelerating or at least not hitting the brakes could be the difference between life and death. By panic hitting the brakes you squat the front end and bring up the rear end, this is a recipe for disaster as more than likely you will endo. By accelerating you have the advantage of momentum and have the possibility of either pushing the animal aside or going over the top of it. Yes, you will damage the bike, yes you may get hurt, but your chances of survival are greatly increased. If the animal is larger than a deer then… Remember, YOUR safety is up to YOU, NOT the other guy. RIDE TO BE SEEN
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I see in a couple of posts that some people are very adament about not using DOT5 brake fluid. I have been using it for well over a year on the RSV in the clutch and front and rear brakes as well as in the front a rear brakes on my 1997 Honda Shadow ACE for about 4 1/2 years. I have had no problems, leaks, loss of brake strength or anything to indicate this is the wrong stuff. I do know that you need to be careful and not mix any different types. Please explain why you feel that this is so wrong. If Im headed for trouble I would like to fix it before but it should have happened already if it was.
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VR-Exhaust Combiner Chamber Repair A.K.A. Fixing the Rattle in The Baffle by Robert Trim My second 1987 Yamaha Venture Royale Exhaust baffle began the 'rattle samba' a short time back. The devil is in the details and a picture is worth a thousand.... well you get the drift. Here's a way I did the surgery 1- You have to drop the entire exhaust system. a- remove mufflers on both sides first. 2 bolts on the rear of the chamber and 2 bolts half way down the mufflers accessible through the passenger's foot rest supports. b- remove the side panels, both sides. c- remove the lower fairing legs, both sides. The lower air dam and plastic cross brace. d- remove allen bolts holding headers to front cylinders. e- loosen 2 bolts in the clamps holding the combiner chamber to the front pipes. f- There are FOUR attach points holding the exhaust collector box to the bike. The TWO front attach are released by removing two 12mm NUTS located on a bracket near the front of the collector box which hold it to the bottom of the engine case. The TWO rear attach points are released by removing two 12mm BOLTS for the exhaust clamps at the bottom end of the rear headers; these are best removed by using a 10" socket extension angled up at a 45 degree angle on either side of the center stand. g- now the fun part... the chamber is not going to come easy. Use a pry bar on either side and work it lose from the rear headers. You will need to work the front headers lose and free so the chamber can drop down. 2- Cut open the chamber. 3- Remove needed baffle screen to get at the baffle. 4- Remove the baffle. 5- Bend opening shut. 6- Have someone weld it shut. It's stainless steel and needs someone with experience. 7- reinstall in reverse order. Make sure you put the chamber in place WITH the front headers attached. An extra set of hands is vital at this point. Here's some of those thousand word photos.... http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/StrippedSideSm.jpg Side plastic, mufflers and front headers off. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/LowerSectionSm.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BafUpperBolts.jpg It's easier to remove the parts with the bike on the center stand until you get to the rear header clamps. Put it on the side stand, use a mirror and drop light on the floor and look up between the frame tube and slightly forward. About the angle of the arrow you see above. The right side is easier to fine than the left so start with that one first. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/MirrorSm.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/ScreenIn.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/CutoffToolSm.jpg The chamber is on it's back and this is 2 steps into the opening process. I used a cutoff tool to cut it open. WARNING... USE safety glasses and leather gloves when using the cutter. The above photo shows the left baffle liner screen already cut out and you can see the down pipe from the rear header connections. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BentUp.jpg Bend it open ONLY as far as you need to gain access to the baffle. I needed it 90 degrees open to get the cutoff tool in. If your baffle is flopping fairly freely (very common), open a little and grab with vice grips, twist and pull hard. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/SideOpen.jpg Here both screens are cut out. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/ECUbaffleSm.jpg My baffle had it's welds in place but was stress fractured along the bottom. I simply used the cutter to finish the break. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BaffleOut.jpg The rest of the bracket is fine so I leave it. It's spot welded top, bottom and in the front. With the chamber now open for air flow, this now exactly like the crossover pipes put between headers of a dual exhaust system on a car. The VR will now breath much easier. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/DrillEndCut.jpg Carefully fold the flap back and work it as straight and as close to original placement as possible. Use a drill bit to create a termination hole at the end of each cut. Stainless will crack from any sharp point even after it is welded. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/ReadyForWeldSm.jpg Ready for welding. A good welder will suggest that after welding the seam, a second layer of stainless be added over the seam. This will pretty much assure that the weld will outlast the bike. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/CrackedBracket.jpg It is important to check for other cracks. This is the chamber mounting bracket on the top of the chamber. I did not see this until I gave it a good cleaning. This is a common problem. Get it welded as well. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BigWeld.jpg Big seam welded to perfection by the students at Salt Lake Community College's welding program. Good people to know. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BracketWeld.jpg Bracket crack all fixed. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/ChamberReady.jpg Ready to go back in place. It's better to approach this from the right side of the bike. Slip the chamber back on the rear header down pipes and thread the bracket bolts on a few turns. Install the front headers into the chamber front inlets. This is a process of seating the pipes into the chamber and, at the same time, making sure the front header seats align flush. Soon as you get it dialed in, put the alan nuts on the front headers to hold them in place. Tighten the chamber bracket nuts. Then tighten the clamps to the front headers, then the header-to-head alan nuts. These are kind of a bear because there is a frame cross brace just 'almost' out of the way. You need a 5/16" longer length alan wrench to get it started. Install the mufflers. Replace the plastic parts and you're good to go. One additional tweak it to drill out the 2 baffles in the mufflers. You'll need a 1/2" drill bit welded to an 18" rod. Punch a few holes in the baffle on each end of the muffler for more air flow. Hope this helps if you need to do baffle surgery.
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Attached are some pics of the new Venom X I mounted on the front of the '83VR a few months ago. I rode it lightly around town, and then about 750miles over a 4 day weekend at VWIII. I noticed a clunk when apply the front brake and while inspecting the caliper, play, and such, I ran into this on the side walls on the tire. I'd Venture to say there's about 1000miles on it since new. In Avon's defense the front tire pressure was about 10 pounds low when checked in Susanville, and I did ride it pretty hard while running up Hwy 395 after friday's group ride. Stopped for gas with Steve (hdhtr) and got a little carried away trying to catch up with the pack. My question is #1 can i expect this after running a tire low on pressure at high speeds.. 90+ in a couple of areas and #2 should I replace the tire or will it hold up?? I also noticed that on the sidewall the tire inflation should have been 50psi instead of the 40psi I thought was enuff. And should I just go ahead and bite the bullet and pick up a replacement?? Whatcha think???
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How much affect does a rear tire have on the tracking and unstable feel of a bike? A LOT! Much more than I ever suspected. In another thread several weeks ago I reported that I had to take off my rear tire before I had a new one available. Because I ride every day, I decided to re-mount an old Brickstone rear tire that I had sitting around for emergency use. This tire was flat as the proverbial fritter and mostly bald, but I figured I could run it for a couple of weeks. I was absolutely shocked with how bad the bike handled! This thing started trying to weld itself into every groove and ridge on the road, and if there was a spot near a light where the asphalt was bubbled or rolled up from the heat and weight of the cars, the bike would pitch hard back and forth as it contacted the uneven surface. Going over a ridge of uneven pavement between lanes was actually scary. All of this attributed to just the BACK tire alone. Last night after work I finally decided I had to mount the new Avon rear tire. Today, the bike handles absolutely perfectly again! No more tracking, the rolled up asphalt is undetectable, and the bike makes the transition between uneven lanes with hardly a blip. My front tire is an Avon Venom MT90 with 16,000 miles on it - same tire I had on it yesterday when it handled so badly with that old Brickstone rear. Today with a new Avon Venom on the rear, that 16,000 mile Venom on the front is handling every bit as well as I remembered when I first mounted the Venoms. I suspect that the quick handling that we get from the MT90 size up front actually made the impact of that flat rear tire worse than it was when it was still in use with the original front tire. On another note, anyone who has run the stock Brickstones is undoubtedly familiar with the infamous howl they make as they wear. I can conclusively tell you that the flat rear tire is where that howl is coming from! As soon as I put that old tire back on, the howl was back with a vengeance any time the bike as not being held in a perfectly straight line. The slightest hint of a lean left or right would just make that tire wail! Stay tuned for the next phase of this impromptu experiment. In about a month, while that new Avon rear tire is still new, I am going to re-mount the old fat Brickstone front tire to see just what effect that tire alone has on the handling of the RSV. I'll let y'all know! Final bit of information for anyone who has hung in here this far - I use a Harbor Freight tire changer that makes mounting skins a breeze. The learning curve is minor - after about the third tire change, the operation is so smooth and easy that dismounting and mounting a tire is truly a 5 minute operation. If you want to do this work yourself, that tool pays for itself with the very first set of tires you change. For anyone in North Texas who is interested, I'm more than happy to let you come over and use mine s'long as you bring a six-pack with you! I can't supervise without a beer, ya know? Good luck, Goose
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Adjusting Steering Head Bearings Today we are going to look at a very simple method of adjusting your steering head bearings. Loose steering head bearings are a fairly common problem on both the first and second generation Venture and probably the Royal Star also. At some point, you will most likely want to do a true service on these bearings. That is a much more complicated and time consuming job which requires completely removing the handlebars, top tree, and on at least the second generation Venture, the front faring..inner and outer. I've done that job and it takes several hours. It should be done at some point though because you will probably, at some point, want to repack the bearings and that requires the more complicated method. If your front end seems loose though and you simply want to tighten it up a bit, it's a very simple job that can be done in about 30 minutes. You will need a lift to do this job as the front must be completely off the ground. As you can see from the following picture, it does not need to be high in the air...just make sure the front tire is not touching the ground. Once you have the bike lifted, gently push the handlebar one way or the other and see how loose the front is. In my case, the front would fall to one side or the other without me even touching it unless I had it perfectly centered. That is too loose. The front should stay where you have it and if you gently push it one way or the other...it should gently come to a stop but not be binding or hard to push. If you gently push the bars so that it bounces off the stops, it should rebound gently and stop...maybe even ever so slightly oscillate back just a tiny bit but if it oscillates back and forth 2 or 3 times, it is definitely too loose. http://www.venturerider.org/steering/lifted.jpg The next thing you will need to do is slightly loosen the top nut just below your handlebars. An open end wrench works great for this but if you don't have the right size, you can protect the finish with a rag and use a pair of Channel Locks. http://www.venturerider.org/steering/topnut.jpg If you look just underneath the top fork brace, you will see two locking nuts. These nuts are slotted and locked together with a locking washer with a tab. You do not need to pry out the tab as we are going to simply tap and tighten both nuts together. http://www.venturerider.org/steering/lockingnuts.jpg Believe it or not, we are almost done. Simply take a long screwdriver and place the blade in the slots in the nuts. Tap lightly with a hammer to tighten the nuts. Be careful here. You will be amazed at how little you have to tighten these nuts to make a big difference. http://www.venturerider.org/steering/screwdriver.jpg After tapping, gently swing the front end. If you gently swing the front end to where it gently hits the stops, it should rebound slightly and come to a gently stop. It should not bind or be stiff but should not oscillate back and forth. If it bounces off the stop, and then rebound and hits the stop again...it is too loose. If it rebounds and gently stops....you are about right. Once you get it right....simply retighten the top nut and you are done. Very simple job that takes about 30 minutes.
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Connecting the Front Air Forks on the Second Generation Venture Here is a link to this kit at Dennis Kirk. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp;jsessionid=VFN5LLHK4G5JLLA0WTVSM4VMDK0NCIV0?store=Main&skuId=58318 One of the least expensive but best modifications I have made to my '99 Royal Star Venture was the addition of this "Air Fork Balance Kit". As those of you who own the new Venture know, the front forks are separate and the maximum air pressure is 7 psi. It is very difficult to get the pressure equal and that is where this kit comes in handy. The kit is made by Progressive Suspension and is available from Dennis Kirk. The part number is 58318 and the price is $23.99. You can order it by calling Dennis Kirk at 1-800-328-9280 and using the part number listed. Installation is simple and requires only about 15 minutes. You simply remove the valve stem cores from the existing valves, screw these two caps onto the existing valve stems, connect them with the included tubing and you are done. http://www.venturerider.org/frontbalance/airbalance_files/MVC-001F.jpe Right Side. Look closely and you can see where the connecting tube hooks to the small nylon nipple. http://www.venturerider.org/frontbalance/airbalance_files/MVC-002F.jpe Right Side Again. http://www.venturerider.org/frontbalance/airbalance_files/MVC-003F.jpe and again............ http://www.venturerider.org/frontbalance/airbalance_files/MVC-004F.jpe Left side. Again, you can see the tube which connects to the right side. I ran it behind the rubber handlebar dampers so you don't really see it unless you are really looking. http://www.venturerider.org/frontbalance/airbalance_files/MVC-005F.jpe This is what you see from the drivers seat. Here are the simple instructions for installation. http://www.venturerider.org/frontbalance/airbalance_files/afbk_diag.gif
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Hey everyone, Just took the Venture (83) up to West Va to ride in the mountains for the weekend. We did 1200 miles in three days!!!! It was the first over 100 mile trip that I have had the bike on. I noticed that around 80 MPH I would get a wobble that felt like the bike was flexing in the middle. The other way I could describe it was that feeling when you hit a rut in the road. Letting off the throttle would bring it back into control. I also noticed that it would do it on the mountain switchbacks around 65 MPH. I checked the front axel, brace and tire pressure (40 psi). I checked the rear axel, swingarm, shock pressue (35psi) and tire pressure (40 psi). Ichanged the dampining adjuster to "2". Now it seemed to get more tolerable after all this. I have not checked the front shock air pressure due to the fact that the line is still hooked up to the Class compressor. The rear line has been removed and fitted with a shrader valve. Could the lack of air in the front forks cause this? If so what should the pressure be in the front and rear shocks? Sorry about the long post. Thanks Ron B
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Hi I have just replaced the original brigestones on my tour deluxe and have replaced them with Metzler ME880 on both front and rear. I am having all sorts of problems with the handling now. It feels like the front end wants to go from under me when powering around corners. The front end seems so light. I have 36psi in the front and 40 psi in the back. Any suggestions. Regards Tapi (Western Australia)
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on my 2005 RSV, a couple of weeks ago someone here had done that ? I put the Baron's rear end lowering kit on, so now I'd like to lower the front end the full 1 1/2 inches? Thanks in advance for any advice or instructions.
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