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Showing results for tags 'fluid'.
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Hi y'all. I just noticed these today, these round things on the sides of the hydraulic fluid reservoirs for my front brake and for my clutch. It appears as if these may actually be windows designed for easy checking of fluid levels inside the reservoirs. I can't confirm this though because there seems to be 24 years of hardedned road grime on these windows. I haven't attempted to clean them yet for fear of using too much pressure on them and causing breakage. I was wondering what the best way to clean these would be and if it's actually safe to do so.
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Got this 86 VR last week. It has not been running for months(many, many months). It won't start and I am working on that. Got some Seafoam and have begun to see if I can get fuel to the carbs. But first... should have been an easy one. No rear brakes. Fronts(rt side) work fine. So just bleed the air out right. Put DOT 3 on the res. and pump, pump, pump(bottoms out each time). Open Lt. front bleeder... nothing. Did this a half dozen times. OK, plan B. Found the bleeder by the neck. Could only find one so I guess it's the right one:) Pump, pump, pump. Nothing. Not a drop of fluid. Still bottoming out on the bakes. On to plan C... the rears. Same drill... nothing. Resivour(sp) is still full. Seems the brake fluid isn't getting out of the res. Now what?? I know absolutely nothing about these bikes(and this one in particular) but I am willing to try to get it to work. Will take any suggestions... TIA, Wayne
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After being shown the proper way, and the proper point, of bleeding the brakes at Freebird's Maintenance Day, I finally got over to Harbor Freight and picked up a hand operated vacuum bleeder and a large can of Dot 3 & 4 brake fluid. The front brake was a breeze and was finished in about 20 minutes. The rear on the other hand was a bit more interesting. I looked at several (and I do mean several) stores trying to find a funnel with a flexible tube that would fit in the fill hole of the resevoir. NO LUCK! I finally picked up a turkey baster and pulled the rubber bulb off the end and the tip fit in the hole perfectly. A little bending of small stuff (tying string for you land lubbers) and the turkey baster remained in place as well as giving me a sight glass. The rest of the bleeding went fairly well and I now have clean fluid in my brake lines. The next bleeding will be of the clutch and shouldn't be too much problem. Most people may think this kind of silly, but I remind you all that I'm about as mechanically inclined as a left handed chimp without his trainer, this is why I teach electronics. I forget the gentleman's name that helped me out at Freebird's, but THANK YOU very much. I learned something!
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Hi to all, I recently cheeped out and bought a battery from Advance Auto parts with a copon I got in the mail for my 87' VR. (total cost: $28.00) When I went to remove the old battery the resistor that goes to the plug for the battery fell apart in my hand! The plug into the battery is good and the wire to the resistor is still there. Now with the new battery I get the dredded "Battery Fluid Low" Icon on the dash. Lonestarmedic was kind enough to send me the post on removing the battery fluid low resistor out of the electrical system but I am thinking that since I still have a "wetcell" battery, the sensor would be a good thing. Does anyone know what size/value resistor goes in this circut so I can replace it? Or does anyone have the entire plug/ resistor line that they would like to sell? When Jean and I go for a ride, she keeps looking over my sholder and says... whats wrong with the battery, didn't you just replace it? (like 43 times!) Thanks in advance for any light anyone might be able to shed on this problem. Earl and Jean
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My 2001RSV is using fluid in the clutch. I just purchased this bike in December. About two months ago I hadn't yet gotten into a good routine of checking everything, when after about a 30 minute highway ride, I hit some traffic, went to slow down, and I was not able to easily downshift the transmission. After some serious stomping, I finally got into the lower gears when I noticed that even with the clutch fully engaged the bike was still pulling forward. I was able to get to my destination where I opened up the clutch master cylinder to find it was pretty low on fluid. I topped it off and after a couple hours of cool down it seemed to be shifting okay, so I hopped back on to take her home. Again, after the 30 minute ride it was difficult to downshift, but I was able to make it alright. The next morning I bled the system and thought everything was fine. Unfortunately, after another 4-500 miles, the fluid level started to go down again, and it started to shift harder again. I topped it off again and did another more thorough job of bleeding the system. Since then I have added fluid two more times. That's a total of 4 times to add fluid in less than 6 months, riding about 2500 miles. So, clearly I'm losing fluid somehow. There are no obvious drips or leaks, i.e, no spots on the garage floor. So I believe that I am only losing fluid when the bike is running. Any thoughts or suggestions on where to look or what to fix? Thanks.
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So I'm replacing the inner fairing due to some cracks and I thought... Hey! I should check, repack and re-torque my steering head bearings! ...then I thought ...Hey! I should polish my forks & shrouds! ...and then I thought ...Hey! I might as well change all the fluid in them! ...and then I thought ...dang...I wish I could go riding. Maintenance is fun. But only in the winter. And not in Hawaii. What weight fork fluid do I use? Does anyone use heavier than stock with good results. I'm 200lbs.(all muscle, ), usually ride with a trailer, 50% two-up and all the time; way too fast.
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What is the difference between DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid? I want to change the clutch fluid on my wifes 99 RSTD, and I have an almost full bottle of DOT3 in the garage. Can I use it instead of DOT4?
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Hi, I have an intermittent problem with my brake fluid indicator on the dashboard computerized diagnostics screen. Have verrified that my fulid levels are ok but sometimes get the dash (0) brake fluid low indicator coming on. It seems to happen vaguely associated with steep left turns but not all. The one pulling away from the stop sign at the end of the road at my dads place seems to do it. I winter the bike in my dad's garage and it has happened other years where first time out of there I get the indicator on at that turn. Usually it goes away on its own next ride and doesn't turn up again till the following year. This year however it has been happening more frequently. As I say I have the fluid levels all up to snuff. So I look in my bike manual at the schematic wiring diagagram and it shows the two brake fluid level switches are wired in series with one another to black which I assume is ground. Then in the trouble shooting section I read that to test the switches one should remove both from the master cylinders and test continuity across them. It says that when the swtich units are standing upright (picture shows wires at the bottom) in no fluid there should be zero ohms across them and when turned upside down (wires at the top presumeably), there should be infinity ohms across them. Unless the switches mount upside down, (manual doesn't say) I don't see how both things can be true. Logically, in a series circuit, you'd need both switches closed when all is well. If either of them sense low fluid they should go open interrupting the circuit. Yet the description seems to show the reverse. I tend to beleive the diagram. Any one know for sure which way is up? Any one have similar problems with brake fluid indicator ? I hear that the back of the computer monitor dash board thing is a common place for broken solder connections, I suspect that is where my trouble is, any thoughts? Thanks, Brian H Uxbridge Ont -
Ok, my head is spinning. After the last couple posts I have made, all the replies I have gotten, thinking about a couple different issues I am having/have had with my bike and reading the following posts: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13582 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13218 Among several others... Here are my thoughts... PLEASE pipe in with your thoughts. When I bought my 83 VR (about a month ago), the right front brake rotor was COVERED in what I thought was brake fluid. It was so soaked that the front brake wouldn't even slow the bike down, not to even talk about stopping it. The guy I bought it from told me that it was leaking brake fluid from between the two caliper halves. I thought, 'Ok I will fix that'. I needed to get it passed on state inspection, so I cleaned up all of the fluid from the brake rotor, the caliper and the pads REALLY good and took it in for inspection. It passed fine and the front brake worked great. When I got home I thought to myself, if there was that much fluid on the rotor, the front brake resevior must be low. I carefully cleaned the outside of the resevior, removed the screws and pulled off the cover. It is completely full. I am bewildered, but content that maybe the problem will re-show itself making diagnosis easier. After a couple hundred miles, the brake rotor is still completely dry and the front brake resevoir is still completely full. Now, another issue I am expiriencing is the apparent bottoming out of the front end when I hit normal road bumps. And sometimes cornering feels really wierd (nice description, huh?). I checked the air in the front end with the CLASS system and it seems fine at 14 psi. Now I am wondering if the fluid was folk oil, and if the bottoming out and shaky cornering are a result of either no fork oil in the right fork or uneven fork oil levels in the two front forks. What do you think? Is there a way to check the fork oil level in the forks? How do I add fork oil to the forks if they are low? Sorry this is so long. Please forgive a "newbie". I also wanted to express my thanks to all of you who are so willing to offer advice. This website is GREAT and I am so glad to be a part of it. -Mike -
wheel spinning with clutch engaged???
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Changed the brake fluid, changed final gear oil, and motor oil, then added clutch fluid (dot 3 brake fluid). Now for some reason my '83s wheel spins as soon as you put it in gear with the clutch engaged??? what the heck did I do or didn't do? I am newer to this site and to the bike and not really what you would call "tech savvy" so any help would be appreciated. If it helps the clutch level was just barely in the sight glass untill I filled it. Thanks for any help in advance. -
I am getting ready to change the break fluid on my 03 RSV, and am looking for some tips/advice. I looked through the Tech section but did not notice any article. Any help would be appreciated.
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My 84 VR is sick. Several months ago it took a full choke before it would start and then it progressed to were it would only start when it was warm. (set out in the the sun) Now it will rarely start without a spray or two of starter fluid. I have followed many of the suggestions on this site and have replaced the plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, new gas, etc. I also tuned the carbs. Once it is warmed up, it runs fine but getting it started is a major pain. If I don't have a charger on, it will crank until the battery runs out unless I give it a shot of starter fluid. Previously, after it was running and warmed up, you could shut if off and it would restart immediately. Yesterday, after I had rode it for a hour or so, I shut it off but had a heck of time getting it going again. It took several seconds of cranking it before it started. Any suggestions on what the problem might be or what to check next? Thanks.
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Last year the rear brake on my '99 RSV locked up. I could barely get to the shoulder. The rotor was too hot to touch. I end up beating the caliper off with a donated hammer and wood block. I pulled the pads-reassembled- and rode home on the front brakes. I had no luck solving the problem, so I bought a brandy new COMPLETE caliper-Installed it, and replaced the fluid. Done deal. This was last fall-didn't get a whole lot of miles before the snow hit. The other day I dragged the beast out of the shed for a new season. Yippee! Well today it happened again after 50 miles or so. This time I cracked the line and bled the fluid out... We don't need no steenkin' brakes. OK, so what the heck is going on? New caliper--new fluid--same problem. Do you think it's the master cylinder--poltergeists--or what? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks:confused24:
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I am really tired of bleeding my clutch and besides I don't think this is my problem anymore. Ever since the Barnett clutch, I have a really hard time finding neutral. If in first, I seem to pass through neutral and end up in second. If in second, I seem to always go right past neutral straight into first. The lever seems really difficult to move as well. This is the case when the motor/tranny is hot. If cold works like new. I have bled the clutch fluid several times and am confident there is no air nor old fluid left. There are no leaks at all, everything is dry. What else could be wrong? Could it be the Amsoil synthetic? Need some advise. -
Went out to check the battery on the 86 this afternoon, powered up fine, but since the last time I turned the key about a month ago, it has decided that the low brake fluid light should be on. I read a few threads here this afternoon, found the rear resevoir was a bit low, brought it up, no change. Now, I read something about a possibility of resoldering the computer? Are there any threads that deal directly with that? I couldn't find any, and not that I"m really looking to do something like that, it would be good to at least have the reference. Thanks. Joe
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hello all. i have searched the "tech" forums to no avail. can anyone tell me where the REAR brake reservoir FULL mark is? i don't know when "enough is enough". i have heard that overfilling, can cause rear "lockup", as the fluid heats up with use. thanks in advance. just jt
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she just doesn't want to start
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Home again and pulled big yellow out from under her tarp. unplugged the trickle charger, checked all the necessities, and started cranking. No luck. It will turn over like a champ, getting spark, but just refuses to fire up even with starter fluid. been trying for a couple days now and it's not wanting to cooperate. Any suggestions before my migraine gets worse? Going to go get a new set of plugs Tuesday and once again pull them and put in the new ones. -
While the snow piles up in the driveway, all I can do is think about the maintenance I will do on the 84 Venture in about a month when I can get near the shed again. Last year, among other things I bled all the brakes and some foul looking fluid came out. It looked like on the front forks there was a bleeder for the brakes and a secondary bleeder for the shocks. I have not noticed any fluid on the top part of the shocks so I am not thinking that the seals are leaking. Is it possible for fluid to leak from the front brakes into the shock. Are these two systems linked or how do they work? I was also going to bleed the clutch this year. Is the slave cylinder hard to get at for bleeding? Hope the people in the south are enjoying riding. It will be at least a month before we can ride in southern Ontario.
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I was pulling the rear wheel getting ready for the VMax rear end swap. To get the axle out, I usually use a wood dowel and hammer on the threaded end to start it moving. Once inside the wheel, I continue banging it through using a long extension. Once its about half out, I can grab it from the pinch bolt side and pull it on out. Today, I couldn't get it moving at all. I checked the pinch bolt... ok. Nothing in a bind that I could see. Banged some more... nothing. I was getting rather frustrated. For some reason I stuck my finger into the axle on the pinch bolt end. I thought I felt a hex hole. Looked in and there was a hex opening. I grabbed my 10mm allen wrench hoping maybe I could turn the axle and maybe break free whatever was holding it. It turned fairly easily. I also found I could pull out on the lower end of the wrench, putting it in a bind in the axle, work it back and forth while pulling, and the axle slipped right out. No more banging. Maybe everyone but me knew about this, but I hadn't seen it anywhere so thought I'd post it. Next was bleeding the rear brakes after doing the Butler mod. I couldn't get the master cylinder to prime. Pump, pump, pump... nothing. I figured that maybe I had an air lock in the tube feeding the MC. I used a set of long needle nose pliers to gently squeeze and release the tube. Sure enough. I got a lot of air out the top and fluid down the tube... but still nothing through the MC. I've got speed bleeders installed. I thought that maybe with so much air in the line, it was compressing the air and not opening the speed bleeder valve. I took the speed bleeder all the way out. It worked! A few more pumps and fluid was moving. I pumped real slow so as not to shoot brake fluid everywhere. As soon as most of the air was out of the line and fluid started bubbling out, I put the speed bleeder back in and all was well. Still took a little while to get all the air out, but it's done. I can't say for sure that the speed bleeders were the problem. Maybe the MC gravity primed while I was messing with them, but I sure suspect them. If I had pulled the bleeder first, I might not have needed to clear air from the tube connecting the reservoir and MC. The first image is pretty blurry, put you can just make out a hex shadow inside the axle. The next three show the allen wrench in place and me pulling and turning the wrench to slip the axle out. -
I had remembered some time ago folks talking about Speed Bleeders. Well I'm here to tell you that I put some in my '99 and had my rear brake fluid completely swapped with fresh fluid in less than 5 minutes. I installed one on my clutch and had it bled in about the same time. If your thinking about getting these, dont wait, they work fantastic! I did it by myself and it was so easy it's stupid I would highly recommend this product http://www.speedbleeder.com/
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This is Cindy.... . just put the leveling links on Dales bike and after he took it off the lift I noticed fluid....antifreeze I believe...... here are 2 picks showing where the leak is ..........any ideas???????? Thanks !!!! http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i251/rella_photo/test/100_1464.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i251/rella_photo/test/100_1465.jpg
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I have a oily like blue-green leak at bottom of cylinder #1. I took the decorative fins off and snapped a picture that is posted below - not great picture - but I have this fluid leaking from around the rubber ring you see at bottom of cylinder. Now my concern is that I have a seal or gasket bad inside that is allowing the coolant and oil to mix and leak - since the fluid is oil-like - but blue-green in color - which would make sense if the coolant and oil is mixing. Obviously - this is not a good thing and likely costly repair. Anyone have any thoughts or alternative diagnoses? Anyone run into same thing? What am I looking at here for a repair - pretty much pull engine and replace gasket at bottom of cylinder? Or what? Would appreciate any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations, tips. Apologize for the quality of the photo if you can see what I am talking about.
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Does the 2nd Gen front master cylinder have a bigger bore then the 1st Gen and does it have wires for brake fluid level like the 1 st Gen? -
I have a problem with the digital diplay showing a problem with the brake fluid level - stays on and red light stays lit - lots of brake fluid - sensor has been tested in behind the headlight - continuity/no continuity as you raise and lower the float - tnx - Jim
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I have had my 86 Venture Royale checked over by the dealer and no safety problems have been found but the icon on my display indicating low brake fluid is either on solid or flashing most of the time. Is it really caused by low brake fluid? If so, how much fluid should I have in the reservoir? Perhaps there is a level sensor problem. Has anyone else experienced the same thing? If so how did you resolve the problem. The light is quite annoying at night.
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