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Showing results for tags 'fluid'.
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Quick question for you all. I was thinking about looking at an '89 for sale nearby. The listing says the brake fluid was replaced with DOT5. Has anyone done the switch to DOT5 fluid? Are there any concerns about using DOT5 on an older bike? Thanks in advance...
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Well I got into the brakes again. Now that I know how to bleed the left front out. I started by getting the resivor open. This I thought was going to be a pain but it popped right loose and was not bad at all. After topping off the fluid I started to bleed it out. I did it old school but still cheated. I made a check valve that would allow the air to exit but not re-enter. After 2 cups of coffee and 45 minutes of pumping the pedal up and down I had all the air out and good clean new fluid throughout the system. I want to thank you all for informing me how the brakes were set up and how to bleed them out. Shaun
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Ok it’s official! I’m an idiot. So here’s how I discovered this. I’ve got my RSV up on the lift for a maintenance. So today I tackled changing the brake fluid and clutch fluid. I did the rear brake and then the front. Everything went smooth as silk. Then came the clutch fluid ,now keep this in mind I’m doing this the old fashion way, (open the bleeder, squeeze the lever, close the bleeder, release the lever and repeat). So I get the fluid in the clutch changed , it feels good. So I decide to started her up and put her in gear to see how she shifts. While it’s running an I put it in gear it dies. Damn, I’m thinking there must be air in the line so I bleed her again, and again. Start her up, shift in to gear it dies. Well, at this point I come inside and log on to the forum and review the tech section again and do a few searches on bleeding the clutch. Every thing seems right. So back out I go and bleed her again, start her up, it dies. Then all at once it hit me like a BRICK! And I though to myself.. YOU IDIOT THE KICK STAND IS DOWN!!!!. I put it up and alls well. I hope I can get a little smarter when I pull the drive shaft.
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By any chance someone recorded how many strokes of the lever one needs to pump before new fluid is bleeding out? I bleed my clutch, front brakes and rear brakes. All the fluid that came out seemed really clean, being that I have only put 1000 miles since I purchased my 89 VR, I do not know when they were last bleeded. I pumped 4 times then refilled the Reservoir until I guessed it was enough. I also made sure that each Reservoir ended up half full for expansion.
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I bought a 2000 RSV last year. Currently have 35,000. Little overwhelmed from going through the maint book on what I am "supposed" to do. Planning on changing oil, filer, final gear oil, spark plugs, brake pads and I need a near tire so I will lube up the spline also and fuel filter. Carb tune was done last year (thanks Squidley) but I guess that should be done again if I have the valves adjusted which I am assuming hasn't ever happened. Based on records, brake pads, brake fluid, coolant and final drive oil was changed at 15,000. Quite overwhelmed with the other things the book tells me to do where I am completely clueless including the following. Engine Oil Pressure Test Repacking Swing are bearings Repack wheel bearings Valve clearance Fork oil change replace brake hoses brake fluid and cluth fluid (just confused on this one. If it ain't broke why do I fix it?) Most important thing to me is safety. The next most important is reliability and the last thing is the bikes longevity. What really needs to be done and what doesn't on a 10 year old 35,000 RSV? Thanks, Bob -
After an hour of fiddling with installing a speedbleeder to assist in replacing the fluid in my clutch reservoir, I reinstalled the old bleed valve and reversed bled the clutch lines (thanks Condor). Now, when I sqeeze the clutch lever, I don;t get any "pressure" until the lever is approx 1/4" from the grip. Essentially, the clutch lever travels almost all the way to the grip before I feel any fluid pressure. I took the cover off to have a look...I can see the plunger moving and I can see the fluid "swell" over the small hole. Having read on this forum that some folks have squirted themselves with brake fluid by rapidly activating the clutch lever. I took the appropriate precautions to prevent brake fluid spraying every where...but to my dismay...no spray...just a "swell" in the reservoir. It just doesn;t seem like I have any clutch. I can squeeze the clutch, and put it into first gear, but after releasing the lever about an 1/8 of an inch, the bike begins to move. What have I missed?
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I've read many threads on changing the clutch fluid. So the Bleeder valve has been removed and an oil pan under the VR with it on the center stand. I pulled on the clutch lever slowly a few times to drain most of the fluid. I opened the Reservoir lid. Now I need to get ready to go to work (job). So my thoughts are the fluid will seek its lowest level and therefore in 24 hours most all the old fluid should have been drained. Was wondering if it would be better to have the clutch lever compressed to the handle bar and tied, or does it matter, Just asking, for I do not know if it matters. Yes, I do have a speed valve to install, and I will use new dot 4 brake fluid. My plans are next morning to start pouring new fluid into the reservoir until fresh fluid is seen coming out the drain plug. After that I plan on using Condor's method of reverse fill the fluid from the drain plug up to get all the air bubbles. Oh any suggestions as to how much dot 4 break fluid to purchase, being that once opened that there is an age factor with break fluid. I don't mind having some extras around but not a lot.
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I'm having trouble getting access to a Dodge forum. I know many of you are experienced with other than Ventures/Yamaha. I have a 2005 Dakota, 4.7 V8, 4 wheel drive. Low mileage, under 30,000. My problem is with the power steering. When it is cold, the power steering is "stiff", difficult to turn the steering wheel. It is slow returning to center, I have to steer it back to center. I feels kind of "jumpy" with little surges of power assist. As it warms up, the problem diminishes, and eventually virtually disappears. In warm weather as the engine warms more quickly, the problem also goes away more quickly. I'm looking for suggestions as to what the problem may be. I have limited mechanical resources. I've thought of trying to change the fluid, but don't know how I would get all of the old fluid out of the system.
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When I release the clutch on my 99 RSV I get a pop or click from the master cylinder, it appears to me that it is the boot around the push-rod making the noise. I have plenty of fluid and the clutch is working fine except the noise. I never noticed it before today, however I did not have the engine running when I noticed it so it may have been around for awhile. Do I need to start thinking about rebuilding the master cylinder? Has anyone else experienced this? I am planning to change the fluid Sunday to see if that helps.
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I was bleeding the brakes the other day and ran into a problem with the rear fluid reservoir. The problem is I could not find an easy way to top it off. I tried using a funnel, but the "spout" was too large to fit. My GF came up with an idea: Use a stiff plastic tube and a funnel. Check out the attached pics.... The tube is the perfect size to thread into the plug hole, it is stiff enough to hold the funnel upright, and transparent enough to show fluid level. Who says women aren't smart? Y'All ride safe...
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After changing out my clutch with the Barnett Pressure Plate and Barnett Carbon Fiber Friction Discs, I also found my clutch release point was very close to the handgrip. As soon as I bled the system, all was back to normal. I decided to post the 2nd Generation Clutch Bleed to help anyone who needed it. First off, I put a brick under the kickstand to get my bike near level...then i gathered the tools needed. 5mm Alan Head (Hex) Bit, 8mm wrench, phillips head screwdriver, and a vacuum pump (not necessary but very helpful if you're doing it solo. [ATTACH]51703[/ATTACH] Next step is to remove the left rear cylinder side cover. three 5mm bolts hold this in place. [ATTACH]51714[/ATTACH] Unscrew and remove the resevoir cap and diaphram carefully. Cover your paint with a towel (I was probably a little overdue for a fluid bleed...) Suck out the old fluid from the resevoir using the pump (or a turkey baster) and refill with new DOT 4 brake Fluid (or DOT 3 or DOT 5.1) [ATTACH]51706[/ATTACH][ATTACH]51707[/ATTACH] Attach a plastic tube to the clutch bleeder valve, set up your vacuum pump, and loosen the valve using an 8mm wrench. [ATTACH]51708[/ATTACH] Now, get to pumping...watching the level in the resevoir as to not let it suck any air. When the fluid coming out of the valve is clear, the system is flushed. (NOTE: if you are doing this by hand, (1) loosen the bleeder valve, (2) squeeze and hold the clutch lever, (3) tighten the valve, (4) release the lever...then repeat 1 through 4 about 50 more times being sure to watch the fluid level in the resevoir) Once you are done, close the valve to 4.3 ft/lbs and refill the resevoir. Then replace the diaphram and resevoir cap. [ATTACH]51709[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]51710[/ATTACH][ATTACH]51712[/ATTACH] Put the rubber cover on the bleeder valve and re-install the left rear cylinder cover. Check the fluid is at the appropriate level... [ATTACH]51713[/ATTACH] ...Then fire her up and go for a test ride! Hope this Helps! -Motorpig-
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fluid in my clutch is dark. DO I need to change it?
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just purchased a mighty vac. i have owned an 07 RSTD since new and i notice the clutch fluid has a brownish color to it - the front master is not near as brownish. i quickly read thru the brake bleeding instruction but would love to have a step by step breakdown of how to use this thing for brakes and clutch fluid. and show i use DOT5 fluid when replenishing it? thanks guy for for any inputs........... Buz
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New RSV (1999) owner as of this past Friday. Took it out for a good 500+ mile trip over the weekend to shake it down and honestly only found one thing that has me bothered and confused at the same time. Well two really, the other is an oil leak but its manageable. In the morning when I go out to start I see coolant on the ground, but it looks to be coming from behind the cylinder. This is on the left side of the engine. The coolant will leak more heavily right after I start it but then as the motor warms up I can see it stop. I di not believe it stops entirely as I can see some fluid on the pipe after a long drive. I am supplying some pics, if anybody has any thoughts or can forward me to a thread that I missed in a search I would appreciate it. Awesome site BTW, very helpful http://www.webtrendsguy.com/images/rsv/rsv3.jpg http://www.webtrendsguy.com/images/rsv/rsv4.jpg http://www.webtrendsguy.com/images/rsv/rsv5.jpg Thanks, love the bike! http://www.webtrendsguy.com/images/rsv/rsv2.jpg -
Hello, what does the second light down on the left of my 1989 venture royale mean? It kinda looks like a small bulb surrounded by a housing. Does it mean low brake fluid? Or could it mean I have air in my brake lines?? Is it a symbol for a drip of something? I don't have my manual, so I'm at a loss.
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Started home Sun morning and "Brown Sugar" showed me why she let a couple of those other bikes get close. Started lagging when I let off gas and soon just wouldn't go. Rear/Front brake locked up. Opened rear bleeder and got no fluid. Opened front bleeder and got no fluid. Master cylinder? Brake released while we were there and I rode it home with only front brake. If it released it seems to me calipers are ruled out?? Can you imagine what that thing would do if the Brakes weren't holding it back???
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I've read most of the treads on brakes,about all of them hanging up but mine only work about half of what they should. I check out the calpers an not all of the pistons are coming out. The lever is good its mainly the front I have to pull hard to work. Fluid ,pads are ok .Is it my lines or in the calipers -
New Oil change and bike is still hard to shift. Neutral is hard to find. I bled it out with all new Val Sync fluid in it. Time to rebuild Slave Cylinder??
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I have been brake doing maintenance on my 83 VR.I changed my front pads and changed my fluid.No problem with that part. I changed my rear Brake pads ,drained my fluids and bled my system.It was working but now I have no rear brakes. I undid my Rear bleeder and did a reverse bleed with a fluid pump I had figuring I had an air bubble or something.Filled the rear reservoir too .I took the caliper off and inspected it.I pushed on my break pedal and there was no pad movement.I losened the rear bleeder on caliper and pushed the bake break.No fluid movement.When I take the bleeder out I can see fluid in the chamber. Could there be a problem with my rear master cylinder?Anybody have ideas or have I just missed something? Thanks all. Ray -
Last night, I went ahead and replaced my Amber colored clutch fluid. I bought a set of Speed Bleeders and they are the best your money can buy. There is just one thing that was not mentioned anywhere (I've never seen it), if one wants to replace the OEM bleed valve with the SpeedBleeder type. One must remove the left rear fins that are held by 3 allen head bolts. If you don't do this, there is no way you'll be able to remove the OEM bleeder. I had to refill the reservoir at least 4 times to be certain that I have clear liquid coming out the other end. As a beginner, it took me almost an hour being careful not to spill any brake fluid. Next in line is the rear brake reservoir...it does looks dark from the exterior.
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It made a big difference:thumbsup2: ....bled and changed the fluid, and now the clutch feels like it engages better? (more solid feel , to it). it was just over 3 yrs old. anybody else experience this?
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I found a Prestone synthetic DOT 4 it says it is good for DOT 3 & 4 applications. Is this a good fluid for our Gen 2 bikes? Thanks for all your help.
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While changeing the oil today I noticed oil around both sides of my front tire rim, any clues as to what it could be. I have never added brake fluid and if a seal went on my forks I don't think it would land on both sides of the front rim? couldn't see where it was coming from I cleaned it off and so far it hasn't returned. My brakes are working in the front as well and the fluid is ok in the sight glass.
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I have 2008 rsv the carbetator air vent hose on the drivers side has some fluid dripping out from it. is this something that should be covered under warrenty?
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The brake and clutch fluid should be changed every two years. If you can detect ANY brown color at all in the sight glass on the master cylinders, then the fluid is very old and needs to be changed. Fresh fluid is virtually clear, and it turns brown as it absorbs water from the air. Changing it is easy. At Don's Maintenance day/Carnival, I will have my vacuum pump to make this job real easy. If you want to change your fluids, you will need at least TWO small bottles of DOT4 fluid (or one large 16 oz bottle). Goose
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