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Showing results for tags 'cylinder'.
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Has anyone put their bike on a dyno before changing pipes and than after muffler change to see HP and torque values? Just wondering if the 2 cylinder mufflers exhaust waves where any different than the 4 cylinder flow.
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the brake line from the rear master cylinder to the front left brake runs UP to the top of the tree and then DOWN to the front left bake cylinder It seems that it will be a real B____H to bleed there is likely a simple solution Looking for someone to tell me how to do it ?? Thanx Merv
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What is this part, where does it go, what does it do and is it important or not. During the most recent carb maintenance this weekend, the magnet picked this up from inside the center of the v In between the cylinder heads. It seems like I have seen it before but for the life of me I can't remember where it goes. -
My exhaust on the '87 VR is starting to get loud. It's hard to describes because it's not just a loud muffler type noise....it sort of comes and goes throughout the acceleration. Is quiter when cruising and off the accelerator. Seems to get a little quieter after it has warmed up, but not as quiet as it should. I have visually inspected the system and can't see any obvious rust through holes or anything that would appear to be the problem. As a result, I can't pinpoint it with my ear either. I am hoping the issue is gaskets between the exhaust and the cylinder head. To get to the front cylinder heads where the exhaust ports are, do I need to remove the rad? It looks that way. How do I get to the rear cylinder exhaust ports?
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I have a couple items on ebay for a 1st gen. Thought someone might be interested. The pic of the master cylinder covers do not do them justice. It looks like the pic is showing my finger prints. The item number is 2803372740063 for the covers. I also have a mirror and a pair of riding gloves on there too. Car business is slow, so looking for a little extra:mo money:.
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Hey! Can anyone explain the difference between a CD and TC ignition system? I am looking at an alternative tach and the manufacturer (If you are interested): http://autonnicmanufacturing.com/Home_files/Page1237.htm said theirs would work on a 4 cycle, 4 cylinder engine if it were not a CD system. Manual says 2nd gens have a TC digital system. Just wondering.
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Hi, Thanks for all the interest in the 83 parts I have listed in the classifieds.Floorboards, clutch master cylinder, throttle cable, rotor covers, slave cylinder, seat, windshield and left saddlebag are gone. Still willing to offer good deals on driver's backrest, nice chrome bumper, TCI, Full Wiring harness and many other parts. Radio/CD were shot.. Help me clean out my basement/ garage. I'm tired of parts everywhere Clay
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For a '98 RSTC, what is the firing order? Does each cylinder fire individually, or do two of them fire at the same time? When I lug this thing, It sounds to me like a 2 cylinder rather than a 4. At 65 and above it has a sound that to me sounds and feels(vibrates) like a V-twin. I've never had one of these V4s before so I don't know what to expect.:confused24::confused24: -
Here is the deal, I have tried everything I can think of and still cannot get the front left cylinder (number 2, I think) to fire. Here is what I have done so far: 1. changed the wires 2. changed the plug 3. swapped the coil with known good 4. drained the bowl and verified that there is fuel flow 5. checked/cleaned connectors from the TCI 6. cleaned every connector that I could find. 7. Cleaned the carbs. *I have not re-synced them (would that cause one cylinder not to fire?) The other three cylinders are running fine. I just am not sure where else to look. Everything appears to be in order....the way I verify that cylinder one is not firing, is the water test. I let the bike idle to normal operating temp and then spray water on all 4 exhausts. All of them evaporate instantly except the fron left. It just runs down the tube and evaporartes as it goes. The tube gets hot, but not nearly as hot as the other three. Please help.....
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The head gasket on my '99 RSV is leaking anti-freeze from the front left corner where the cylinder block meets the crankcase. I removed the cooling fin to confirm this. This only happens when the engine is cold and it appears to seal up when the engine warms up. Can anyone tell me if you can change the head gasket with out removing the engine? Can the head bolts be re-torqued by removing the cylinder head covers? Any assistance will be appreciated. Fitz
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A month ago I posted how after bleeding brakes on the 83 Venture the brakes locked up on the test drive and had no play in pedal. The bike is at a friends and he just got back from 3 weeks in Florida so I got to work on it for the first time today. First I adjusted the brakes so I had free play in the pedal. Took for test drive and after using the brakes twice the rear and left front locked up again. Took bleeder wrench so cracked rear caliper bleeder, released pressure and didn't touch brakes until I got back. Two or three hits on the brakes and locked up again. Now this time took a small hammer and tapped on master and brakes released somewhat. Now the master was already taken apart and cleaned. So I believe the problem is with master cylinder. So the questions are. Should the master be talking apart and cleaned again or should I look for another master cylinder? And is it agreed the Master cylinder is the most likely reason for the lock ups? Thank You.
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Got my parts in toady from Rick at Buckeye and will attempt tomorrow to repair clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on my 83 VR. I do have the mannual that shows the diagram for the mc, but the directions for the slave are pretty vague. Anyone ever do these jobs or have any expert advice before I tear into them. Need to get old 83 up and running? Thanks, Clay -
I'm putting new plugs in prior to riding tomorrow. With some valve cover seepage I have a little oil on the seats and the right rear plug has collected grime. How do I get this out?? Not being able to see in there, can I flush it with WD40 or straight gas?? Would it do harm if it disappears in the cylinder? Other options?? Thanks!
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Good afternoon all just singed up to today Have a question to ask i have a buddy who has an 85 vr and he has a problem we are trying to figure out when the tach drops below i think hesaid around 2500rpm i am not 100% on the rpm s but he drops a cylinder and loses the tack above 300 rpm everthing runs great crusies prefect until you start to drop speed or come to a stop thn the tach quites and he loses a cylinder then bring the rpms back and preston you have all four cylinders again. any suggestion's on what to look for.
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I don't know how everyone else's clutch is, but on my Venture, there has always been a fair bit of lever movement to operate the clutch, I have had to top up the cylinder periodically (though it had never become any worse) since buying it eleven years ago and it has been prone to getting bubbles in the line. A couple of months ago I was greasing the pin and checking it for wear when I noticed that the pin (asymmetrical with a shoulder/seal part way down) could be replaced the other way round, thus giving the piston much more movement. Like this the clutch was much better, but it did weep brake fluid. Not drastically, but a couple of months and 4,000 miles later (we did a long Summer trip) the clutch master cylinder was empty. If it gets no worse I'm tempted to keep it as it is, but I'm looking for a rebuild kit. Has anyone else had any reason to play with these ? -
I was doing a end of summer checkover on the bike. I discoverd that someone at one time broke the Brakes master cylinder resoivoir for the rear brakes and the welded it back up. we ll they welded up the filler hole plug as well so I cant check rear brake fluid. All Yamaha parts dealers say the part is available if I buy the $490.00 real master cylinder assembly. I just want the outer housing for the resoivoir. anyone find a source for this thing? or am I stuck buying the overpriced full assembly. -
2 gen clutch release cylinder r&r
gunboat posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
hi all i am going to help james (jburell) to rebuild his clutch release cylinder. i have a question about the removal of it. looking at the manual i have to remove the shift rod, the stator cover, left floorboard, left exhaust and middle gear case cover. can't i just pull the middle gear case cover only to be able to access the two bolts to remove the clutch release cylinder? looks like there would be enought room to unbolt it and drop the cylinder down and out the bottom. seames to me that this one cover would be the easiest and fastest way to go. any ideas or suggestions. thanks in advance & best reguards don c. -
I have little to no vaccum on one cylinder on the 86. It will not read on the carbtune, althou you can feel a little on the tube at manifold and if you take the restrictor out the rod will move up about an inch and bounce. I did a compression check this evening and all cylinders were around 200 plus or minus 4 lbs., which the manual says 199 is the high side with 142 being minumum and 171 standard. I have tried spraying WD40 around the carb boots with no rise in rpm. I checked the tube at manifold with a torch cleaning tip and felt no obstructions. All this was advice from Muffinman, Jeff I rechecked the compression on 1 and 2 only turning it over 3 times and the front cylinder read 150 and the rear 90lbs. Any one else have any suggestions?????????
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was taking off my clutch master cylinder loose this morning and busted the clutch switch off where it attaches at cylinder if anyone has an extra off a damaged or parts bike let me know how much will pay to have it shipped to me. Thanks, David
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Hi, My bike been running perfect for a long time until #4 cyl suddenly became a bit rough. A check of the exhaust temps confirmed the weak cylinder (not hot compared to other cyls). Problem seems to be from the idle mixture circuit, which was not responding to any adjustment. Avoiding to pull down the carbs, I sprayed carb cleaner on both the pilot jet and idle mixture orifice hoping to get lucky. It improved and the cylinder started firing again. Just to be sure, I used colortune and confirmed the correct mixture was there. Unfortunately that was good for about 15 miles only and the problem came back . Note that the basics checked out : compression, ignition, fuel, vac leaks. Would appreciate any input on this. Thanks. -
On the way to work this a.m., my bike started running rough, and there shortly after, I started smelling gas. I continued on to work, running on 3 cylinders. Made it to work and upon parking, I noitced the gas running out from under my 86 VR, while still running. I traced the gas to the breather hose from the back left cylinder on the bike. I pulled that spark plug and have spark, so it seems as if something in the carberatur has broken and not allowing the gas to reach the cylinder? Any ideas? Wouldn't ya know it, the wife and I have a trip to the mtns. planned for this coming weekend. Just my luck I guess. -
I have been having problems with my 06 Midnight Venture. Specifically one of the cyclinders ie; As I sit on the bike it is the rear cylinder on my LEFT. First it was gas-fouling plugs on this cylinder....Ran 3 cans of SeaFoam through 2 tanks of gas and the carb-float problem seems to be gone now. NOW....Today I went for a spin that was roughly 100 miles at speeds from 50-70mph. When I got home I checked all the exhaust headers as they come out of the cylinders. The header coming from that LEFT REAR CYLINDER was warm to the touch whereas the others were very HOT. Performance-wise the bike was fairly decent but I did notice a slight popping and at times it seemed sluggish on the throttle with small periods of hesitancy when I rolled on the throttle...... and even tried holding the throttle steady at 50mph in 3rd gear. Any ideas as to what I should do from this point? I'm thinking about re-synching the carbs....... and doing it step-by-step as provided by Freebird here in the Tech Section. Also putting in 4 new plugs as well with the synch job. Note: Sorry for such a long post but I want to get as much info out in order to help you guys with the trouble-shooting advice. Regards............Boomer -
I'm not much into sport bikes but this is a nice bike. Wouldn't mind playing with it for a few days. 180 HP twin cylinder. http://www.webbikeworld.com/ducati-motorcycles/ducati-1098-r/
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I have a oily like blue-green leak at bottom of cylinder #1. I took the decorative fins off and snapped a picture that is posted below - not great picture - but I have this fluid leaking from around the rubber ring you see at bottom of cylinder. Now my concern is that I have a seal or gasket bad inside that is allowing the coolant and oil to mix and leak - since the fluid is oil-like - but blue-green in color - which would make sense if the coolant and oil is mixing. Obviously - this is not a good thing and likely costly repair. Anyone have any thoughts or alternative diagnoses? Anyone run into same thing? What am I looking at here for a repair - pretty much pull engine and replace gasket at bottom of cylinder? Or what? Would appreciate any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations, tips. Apologize for the quality of the photo if you can see what I am talking about.
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my rite rear cylinder leaks water out the exhaust and there is oily water around the spark plug and i have water in my oil but the weard part as soon as i warm up the motor it runs fine , i am thinking hoping it mite be the cylinder water jacket joint ? anybody ever take one of these out ? now the hard part , do i have to pull the motor to remove the rear head , to install a new head gasket ? moan !! mite be better to buy another motor , shipping is going to be he!! glad i went back to work , and before any of you 2nd gens say anything NO I AM NOT GOIN TO BUY A 2ND GEN so there :rasberry:
