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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
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41K, 99, Rotella T 15W/40 w/1K on it. My clutch will only slip in 3rd, at WOT, going up hill. Now I know I can prevent this by NOT going WOT in 3rd up a hill but... I swear when I first starting reading this and the other Venture board that I read something about "tightening" up the clutch plate by using the washers from sparkplugs (which ones I cannot remember) behind the bolts. This prevented the unwarranted slipped. Unwarranted because the friction plates still had plenty of material but due to design it would slip or something to that affect. Does this sound familiar to anyone!? I like cheap fixes but will dial up Barnett's if I gotta.
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Just wondering if you are going this Sat. for the cook out at Pink and Floyd's, if so would you be so kide as to take my bike for a spin and tell me what you thing on the clutch basket? If you are not going maybe someone else can do it and tell me what they think I should do or not do. Thanks star4772, Joe
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Got about 60k miles on the bike, a vague knock started developing. Wishful thinking it could be exhaust gaskets, sucked a little atf & confirmed the leak. After replacing the gaskets on the # 1 & 3 cyl, engine became quieter but the dreaded knock remained. The knock initially seemed to be coming from either the #3 cyl or clutch basket area. Also noticed the idle became a little rough and a fine vibration can be felt on the right footpeg. Checked carb synch and they were. Pulling the clutch in didnt change the noise. Ultimately I shorted out the cylinders and confirmed the knock came from the #3 cylinder. Rod knock. I'm wondering if it is possible to replace the bearing without the pulling the engine out of the bike? How much incidental parts are involved asidede from the gaskets and bearings? Or are we talking about a complete A-Z rebuild Any input would be appreciated.
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I have read numerous posts on bleeding the clutch but none tell exactly how. My question is this: Do you just bleed it like a brake line? I saw a thing on reverse bleeding but I do not have a pump to do that with. I there another way to reverse bleed. I have bled the brakes on many different cars, bikes and even a tractor or two but never have done a clutch. Any help would be...um...helpful. Thanks
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SR2 Barnett Clutch Spring Kit
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I noticed there is not a full set of teeth running round the clutch pressure plate, is that right. Original has this. Anyone seen this ? -
I just bought a 1986 Venture and it has no pressure on the clutch lever - 0. Fluid reservor is full. Master cyl bad? How do I bleed the system? Thanks
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Bought an '83 off eBay. It's in AZ near Flagstaff. Needs work; clutch master? according to previous owner. Picked up a master off eBay; planning a trip to pick it up. Plan A- ride the bus (20 hours), hop off, catch a ride to the place, swap out the clutch master, bleed the clutch & ride off into the sunrise. $ Plan B- drive out towing a trailer & #1 son, rest is the same except add a side trip to the Grand Canyon. $$ Plan C- catch someone driving east on I 40 with room on a trailer or in a pickup, pay for gas to haul it to OK. $ Plan D- pay to ship it to OK. $$$ I'm leaning toward plan A, but I'm an optimist. Plan B is more practical, and covers both likely scenarios- it runs well or it doesn't. Missed an opportunity for Plan C, but it could happen again. Thoughts? Maybe this oughtta be a poll...
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Well i noticed last night that i have to pull the lever almost all the way back to have a full release. Found that out at a stop light. I have noticed over time that the lever seems like it needs to move a little farther back to release the clutch. The clutch does engage at the same point it always has. It has been hot here in KC and humid for most of the summer. I don't know how old the fluid is but it is not clear but more of a dull darkish tinted color. I have done a few searches on this site and my first course of action will be to change the fluid. I havent had any leaks so maybe a new hose if the fluid swap doesn't do the trick. This site is a great resource for repair how to do's because the members actually do their own repairs and let others know the little things that make a repair job less frustrating. I will keep you posted. -
Is there any way to reduce the force required to pull in the clutch lever? It just seems harder than it should. RR
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It was my impression that the 1stGen clutch covers were all the same from 83-93 1200/1300. Then ran acrossed this item on Ebay. CLUTCH I can't believe that yama-mama changed the cover in any way, but here's a seller that says the one he just bought on Ebay doesn't fit. Whatcha think???
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My 93 Has Had A Noise Coming From The Starter Clutch For Some Time Now But Its Getting Worse, Only On Start Up And When The Engine Is Hot It Will Really Make Some Noise. If I Order #7 In The Picture Below , Will That Give Me Everthing I Need To Fix The Problem ?. I Know I Will Need A Cover Gasket. Thanks
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In response to my moneypit statement, gearhead asked what I did to stop the clutch from slipping. I guess the easiest is to give ya a rundown step by step. First thing was oem plates, boss, and spring. That helped, but didnt fix it. At the time of install I also cleaned out master cylinder and made sure return hole was clear. Next was a new slave. That helped more, but still didnt fix it. I tried roughing up the metal plates, and adding my old spring in top of the new spring, that helped more but still didnt fix it. At this point I was tired of not fixing it:bang head:. I broke down and ordered a barnette kit for it and a rebuild kit for the master cylinder. Had a hard time getting the thing to take a bleed, but it finally seems right. So, in answer to your question of how did I get it to stop slipping, I guess all this stuff put together( a whole new system except the lines) is what worked. Remember, this bike has 85000 miles on it and sat for quite some time b4 I bought it. At this point I still don't consider myself an expert on the clutch, but I know the one on my 89VR almost intimately. On occasion I consider selling the thing, but when you get right down to it, I like to tinker with the thing as much as I like riding it. (It helps to have another bike that all it requires is turn the key and mash the starter button). -
:mo money:I realize now that I paid nearly twice what I should have for this bike, but there's no turning back now. The clutch is finally right, and the brakes are finally right. Even got venturecruise working. If I had looked at E-bay b4 purchase, I could have added about another grand and had a real nice ride. Oh, well-It's only money:crying:. Anyhow, on to the next project. I noticed that the fork seals are leaking pretty good. Almost to the point of why bother to wash it b4 riding. When I pull it apart, is there anything in particular that I should be looking for? Also, anybody got any idea how bad I'll get burnt by the stealer on parts? By the way, had to go to advance auto parts and rent a vacuum pump to pull all the air out of hydro line for clutch.
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Tuesday evening while riding home from work, the 18 wheeler that was ahead of me was flashing it's brake lights at me. It was not dark yet, so I thought that perhaps my headlight was out and I kept riding. About 5 miles later, I smelled something that smelled like brakes burning and I attributed the smell to the truck that was flashing his brake lights at me. About a mile later, lots of smoke from under the instrument panel. Being between off ramps, I decided that I could make it another 1/2 mile to the next exit, so slowed down and kept going. When I was exiting I-80, the instrument panel burst into some flames. I pulled off the road, shut it off, pulled my stuff out of the trunk, dialed 911 and ran to the nearest house for a bucket of water. By the time I got back there were 3 foot flames. A bucket of water didn't do much. The fire department put it out within about 3 minutes. I had time to pull the fairing today to find about 10 inches of the wiring harness gone. All of the relays are gone, of course the windshield, the clutch hose and switch are burned up. Headlight adjuster knob is oblong shaped. Throttle cable is a bit crispy... ignition switch cover is gone. Both side panels on the fairing are melted. Emergency flasher switch is melted. Right hand mirror inside trim and rubber boot is melted. I have a spare wiring harness and am considering a rebuild. I would need: Clutch hose from lever to hard tube. clutch switch L and R side panel covers R mirror windshield relays emergency flasher switch instrument panel and cover Any idea what that might cost?
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I Let My 93 Venture Sit For A Week And Went I Went To Get It Out The Clutch Lever Dont Feel Right,and Is Getting Harder To Get In And Out Of Gear.has Anyone Had Any Luck With Gravity Bleading? Or Should I Just Try To Pumping The Handle And Releasing The Bleader?
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Well, I took my bike into the dealer to have the clutch whine checked out and hopefully have it covered under warranty. After the dealer had it for 5 days they called me back and told me that Yamaha won't replace the clutch basket. Hearing this and reading the prior threads on the forum I called Yamaha customer service. In short, they are doing NOTHING to help me out. I even said to them, "So let me get this right, Yamaha's position is to do nothing in this situation - even though the company has paid to have this situation addressed previously." The customer service person agreed with my statement. Between the clutch whine and the HORRIBLE wobble in the front end (the dealer stated everything was tight and up to specs - even the tire balanced out perfectly) my enjoyment of riding this bike is going south very fast. Just a B*%&H sesstion here. Hope everyone's Venture is whine and wobble free.
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I have an 03 RSV. When the engine is cold, it feels like I am trying to start out in 2nd or 3rd gear. I have to rev it up pretty good to keep it from stalling out when I'm letting out the clutch. After it warms up, it seems to be fine. It got a lot worse after I changed the oil. Does anyone have any suggestions on why it could be doing this?
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My clutch has started to slip in 4th and 5th. It's not too bad yet but I know it's time to rebuild it. I have never done it before and I need some advice about what parts to order. The pictures for the Barnett conversion are pretty helpful and I have a manual so I think I will be ok. I have no idea what parts to order though. I have looked online but everything seems to be for other bikes. I have an '89 VR. Can anyone help with what I need to do the job? Any help would be appreciated. I could also use some advice regarding where I can get the parts for a good price. Thanks
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Both of these subjects have been under a lot of discussion lately, and my bike needed both. Saturday was the big day, and here is my story. I'll start with the clutch. What happens to these things that makes them slip without wearing? All discs measured exactly the same as the brand-new discs - no measurable wear whatsoever. Spring measured within spec. Yet I had mild slippage sometimes under full throttle (not very bad, but annoying). I put the new discs in anyway. Didn't touch the half-disc in the "damper" mechanism as the manual says not to unless there is "severe chatter". I didn't sand the plates or replace the spring. Now after about 40 miles of riding and quite a bit of full throttle. I have experienced no slip - hooray. I've experienced this before. I've had (3) 87 Yahamas. I've had a Virago for a long time, and WAY back I had exactly the same problem with the clutch. I recall measuring the old discs to be well withing spec, just like this time, replaced them anyway, and I've never had that clutch slip again in 80,000 more miles. The mileage on it at the time was probably in the 50k's, same as the Venture now. I also had a Radian for awhile with less than 20k miles on it, and it's clutch slipped on occasion. I never worked on it and then sold it. What's up with that??? While I had the cover off I removed the nasty old remains of clear coat and polished - looks way cool but now the other case covers look very bad comparision - they feel embarassed, too. Worst part of the job was removing the old, rock-hard gasket from the cover. Replacing the slides went about as expected. I didn't want to remove the carbs so I haven't looked at the coasting diaphragms, just the slides. I had pulled #3 and it was quite cracked, so I ordered (4) of them. I found that #2 had been replaced sometime, don't know when but it was at least 2 years ago, probably longer. The diaphragm was good on it. At $55 a shot I wish I had known that before ordering, but the rubber was a little harder on it than on the new ones so I just put in the whole matched set and will keep the "new-old" one around for a spare. This profoundly affected the tuning of the bike. The carbs, which I just synced a couple k-miles ago, were way out, and the pilot screws which I had also adjusted needed to be leaned out. This gives me hope that this will answer my poor MPG question. Everybody said bad diaphragms kills the top end power, so I was looking forward to knocking my socks off on the first ride, although it ran pretty good before. Well, my socks are still on, but I think top-end is up. It sure gets up and goes. For one thing, it seemed to be running out of steam at 100 before, and this morning I saw 110 mph with a little still left (ran out of room). OTOH, it may have been clutch slippage or aprehension of a weave that kept me below 100 before, so I'm not totally sure if my perception is accurate. It tachs out to 8k rpm with no problem. I'll let you know about the MPG, although all this WOT ain't gonna be too good on that! Finally, I had gotten some weird compression readings before which made me wonder if something inside the engine was about smoked. I preferred to deny it rather than think much about it. On Saturday I ran compression again with the engine HOT and new schrader valves in my gage hoses (I tried two gages). I got 190 to 200 psi in all cylinders - wow! I concluded the following: 1) A hot engine can make a difference in reading consistency. It also makes a difference in burned fingers. 2) There is a schrader valve in the end of the gage hose that need replacing on occasion. It is special, so don't install a regular tire valve core (it looks the same) - get it from a tool store. It has a profound effect on readings! 3) Different gages sometimes read differently, so use the same gage for your whole test. 4) Even the different hoses made 10psi difference. Both had new schrader valves. All I can figure is that the valves were slightly different, but I didn't take the time to swap the new valve cores and retest. 5) They say to open the throttle all the way, but on a CV carb that leaves the slide blocking most of the intake path. I removed the air filter and used a dowel to hold the slide open for the test (as well as opening throttle). This seemed to make about a 5psi difference, and allowed the compression to build a little faster. I wouldn't say it's a critical part of the test, but it did affect the test. Jeremy -
I have an '83 standard.....the clutch resevoir (sp) ran dry so i put more fluid in and she was back to normal in a flash. That lasted about 15 miles the when I pulled in on the clutch there was NOTHING again. After I limped her home I checked the fluid level and it looked fine. Is there a place to bleed that system? Maybe I got some air in there messin' with things.
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Here we go again. We now have a new clutch, new slave, plenty of pull on the handle, no air in the lines, clear return hole, scuffed the metal plates, and still the thing slips. The only thing that isn't new on the thing is the pressure plate. The only positive is that it doesn't seem to slip quite as bad. Now I'm wondering, would it help if I replaced a couple of the (cork) plates with steel ones? Or do I go with an aftermarket clutch spring? As I'm at a complete loss of ideas, how about some more of that advice?
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Wish I had done it a long time ago. Ten bucks for a pack of springs from bike bandit. I got a new gasket too, the old one was very hard. The lever doesn't seem stiffer than the old one, but I couldn't get the clutch to slip. Used to slip above 1/2 throttle and 4000rpms. Now I may have to learn how to ride the bike all over again. Swap out only took 30 minutes. I left the bike on the side stand and didn't even lose any oil. -
I know some of you can help me with this. Clutch started acting up on a ride Saturday. When I left town all was well, but as time went on, the play in the clutch lever steadily increased. It got to the point that it would disengage about 1/4" from the handgrip. Fearing it would get worse I returned home and topped off the reservoir. This morning while is was cool it seemed a little better. On the way home after work, I had almost no release left. I actually needed to blip the throttle to help it shift up or down. It's not slipping at all, just not releasing soon enough for comfort. Could it be air has gotten into the line somehow. It hasn't been dropped, but it was completely service recently. I would have expected any problems from the servicing to show up immediately though. All help is needed and appreciated. Jim
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:sign67:I've gotten some pretty good advice so far, so lets try again. '89vr. new clutch (yamaha oem). Changed fluid and bled-no air. New oil(when clutch was changed. After the bike warms up, the clutch STILL slips when I get on the throttle. I am fresh out of ideas. By the way, I cleaned out the little hole in the clutch resevoir. I feel like I'm bangin' my head against a wall on this.
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Well,I finally got some of the other bugs worked out,the only major one left is the terrible shifting. It upshifts most of the time if you give it a HARD upshift.Sometimes you need to give it a tap down before it will go up.Downshifting is worse,you almost always have to move the lever up between shifts down.2nd and 1st are the worst.Sometimes it skips 2nd and goes straight to neutral.The bike has 140,000 km(~88000 miles).It almost acts like the spring on the ratchet mechanism is weak.It used to shift better cold than hot but now it seems to be the same all the time.So far I have; --Bled clutch twice so completely new fluid there. --Made sure the master cylinder was only half full in case the vent was blocked. (incidentally it doesnt shift worth a darn even without the clutch...every other bike I've had would) --shimmed up the sloppy linkage at the shift lever and down at the engine case --Changed the oil (tried seafoam for a few miles in the oil before it was changed --made sure all the pins were present behind their tabs in the starwheel (behind clutch basket)and made sure all the tabs were bent over tight. I guess I should pull the clutch basket and start looking for stuff to replace?Maybe order a new shift drum assembly? I'm kinda getting sick of spending money on it though,I've put about 500km on it and spent about $1400 on it since I got it...Would have been more without DonB's help (Thanks!) It runs great now though (new carb diaphragms,valve adjust,carb sync) Still not as much power as I was expecting but maybe my GS1100gk spoiled me:confused24:. Any suggestions? Thanks Steve
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