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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. I'm i the Process of making up my Mind about the Air Chamber Height. The Fork travels 140 mm/5.5 Inches. As i don't want to have any Fluid pushed inside the the Air Lines, the Level needs to be beneath the Hole for the Air Connector on the inner Forkleg plus some Reserve to ensure this when the Fork is full compressed and with the Springs mounted. This will probably come out at the 172 mm of Oil Level without Springs which Yammi stated in the Book. I will go after this later today and report back about my Findings. Regarding the different Displacement of Progressive Springs, i can't say anything. I've never seen a Set of those and compared them to stock Springs. From what i've seen on other Bikes, Aftermarket Springs compared to the stock Springs are not so much different in Displacement. Heavier Aftermarket Springs might have 2 Percent more Displacement, would be my Guess. Not that those 2 Percent would make a big Deal, but it's not only academic. Maybe it's Time to make a good Writeup for the Fluid Settings.
  2. Eugene, if you change your Signature, your Signature will be changed in every Posting you have made in the Past. So, you only have to look a one single Post after a Change to see the Outcome
  3. NICE, VERY NICE !! !! (the bigger the Boys, the bigger their Toys) :D here's some Background Info ... http://www.airforce-technology.com/projects/jsf/
  4. Are you talking about the Connector Rings on the Forklegs ? If so, just turn them a bit clockwise and counterclockwise until they move. Might be a good Idea to use some Liquid to help them moving after they are loose. WD40, Silicone Spray or something in that Line. Once they turn easy, you can pull them up carefully. Now, remove the Circlips underneath the Air Connectors and you can pull the Legs out.
  5. Rick, i'm very familiar and aware with the Fork Situation. I agree on everything you said. This darn Fluid Amount Statement is just plain the wrong Way. This should have been forbidden since 50 Years. What bugs me, besides the Fact that Yammi states way different Facts about the same Issue in the same Book. Not that they aren't know for such Things, but as we're talking Suspension here, not a messed up Carb Synch. Imho, it's better to acknowledge the Facts, set them Straight and secure that the Message is spread out. I've seen a Lot more than 20 Forks, and i always use a clear Can to drain and pump the old Fluid out, check the Fluid for Colour and Quantity. When you ask the Owner why there is so much more Fluid in one Leg than in the other, it's always the same Answer 'Hey, i just filled it up as the Book said'. Usually my next Question is 'and you didn't notice any negative Change of the Ride afterwards ?' and the Answer is 'Yes, but i thought i have to blame the new Tire or my bad Adjustment on the Steering Head'. Now, with the Air-linked Fork Tubes, as the 1Gen's have, this is not extra dramatic, but without any Connection, you will be in deep Trouble. There is nothing which can held up against the Forces of different compressing Forklegs, no Superbrace, no Wheel Spindle, nothing. I'm sorry that there are not more Comments, but i think we should keep this Thread alive, because this is important for all our Bikes and the correct Fluid Level and Procedure is also important for the 1Genners.
  6. :rotf::rotf::rotf: Not to push the Envelope, but something very very similar came to my Mind ...
  7. I'm changing Fork Oil on my '93 and stumbled across something weird. In the Manual i downloaded from here, Yammi states to fill 409 ml of Oil in each Fork Leg. As i'm no Friend of this Way, i measured the Air Chamber after the proper Fill. This Amount of Fluid leads to a Air Chamber (or eventually Oil Level) of 245 mm without Springs and the Legs compressed. Imho, that's way too much Airchamber for a Travel of 140mm. I researched the same Shop Manual and in the Specs Summary Yammi states a Oil Level of 172 mm. As the Reference of 'Oil Level' isn't stated, i assume they take the Measurement between Top of Oil and Top of the inner Fork Tube which is the Air Chamber. I researched a Lot of Fork Oil Threads here and got inconsistent Results. A Member stated to buy 2 Quarts others didn't mention any Kind of Quantity. Basically and my first Question to those who have done that in past would be: How much Oil do i need to refill both Legs ? It could be either 409 ml per Leg and have a real big Air Chamber or something around 540 ml per Leg which would lead to an Air Chamber at 170 mm. All other Forks worked on in my Life have had around 10 Percent more Airchamber than the Fork Travel was. This Formula would lead to an Airchamber with 155 mm. Maybe this is the Answer to some bad Behaviour of the front End which some 1Gen Rider suffer from.
  8. no Potholes, but impressive ...
  9. That's the Speedo Line squealing ...
  10. Yes, you're right. It's better to have 0.21 than 0.16 after the Adjustment.
  11. Dan, your Theory has something. Not the 'sitting upside down' but the the 'temporarily stuck' Part. Don't think too hard about that, those Engines have Character and this is what you get back. Or you can re engineer the Valve Train and switch over to Desmodromic ... :):) Don't mess with the Clearances, better set them an the loose Side than too tight. They get thighter anyway. Compression check on the Bench ? Would work, but why ? Your Motor was running fine, so let it go, if you check the Compression and find something not perfect, your Mind tells you to undo the Heads, check the Valve Seats, regrind them in the Seats, new Valve Stems Seals. That would lead to new Shims everywhere and another Week and Hours of Work between you and a rideable Bike.
  12. Don, i also would suggest to let it do someone else. There is plenty enough to be done by yourself, your Wife and others that are usually the same Persons. And most of this can't be done by others. If there's nobody with Experience in Pig Roasting, there's a fair Chance that it doesn't work out like you would have it. i.e. done too early or ready to eat too late. Such big Cookouts needs a special Treatment which needs Experience. It doesn't need to be seen as a Screwup, but i now it from myself, if it's not like i think it should be, i'm not happy.
  13. Any good or bad News ??
  14. Ohh ?? Where is it ??
  15. Greg, with my List of my latest Experience on my Max, i just wanted to state what Difference is within one Bike and with the same Rider. There are so much minor Parts who influence the overall Consumption. As Jeremy stated, if the Needle Jets are worn, the Mileage goes down. But these Mikuni Carbs with round Sliders, which are used on Ventures and Vmax are not famous for worn Emulsion Tubes. The flat Slide CV-Models, used on several other Yammi Models are famous for this. In your Comparison you forgot to mention the Jet Needles. There are more than 6 000 different Needles available from Mikuni. When Yammi changed the PAJ#1, they easiliy could have changed the Jet Needles to achieve their Goals. The Slide Springs could be worn out and thereby, the Slides open a bit more than they should on each lifting Event. This would cause a rich Condition under every Circumstances. You could have set the Mixture Screws too lean, this would cause Fuel being sucked through the Main System when this should be closed at Idle. Next Thing is, Exhaust. The more free flow the Exhaust System has, the better the Chances are to get a better Consumption. But too much Freeflow will make the Consumption worse. Now, there's much more to check. The Holes in the Cams can be in a 'bad' Position in Reference to the TDC, so there is a negative Difference, even if they are all within the Production Specs. Valve Setting a bit too wide might also be an Option. Tire Pressure, Wheel Bearings, dragging Pads, drag in Tranny, Middle Drive Gear and final Drive ... the List goes on and on.
  16. I don't know about the Number we're talking here, but if there wouldn't be a huge Gap in between, i'd second Squidman's Statement.
  17. Greg i just came back from a wonderful Tour with my Max. I've had a complete Spread between 11 l/100 km and 5 L/100km ... 11 Liter was Flatout on the Autobahn, 5 Liter was riding in Swiss with only one Buddie behind me and going slow due to Speed Limits and heavy Traffic, mixed with City and Interstate. Believe me, may your Bike have a good Setup or bad Circumstances ... mostly it's the twist of the Wrist.
  18. Hi Dan, you check the Gap on the "bottom" of the Cam. Bottom means no Elevation of the Cam Profiles. You can easily check the TDC of the Piston when you put a long Screwdriver through the Plug Hole and feel the Piston moving and not only rely on the Timing Marks on the Flywheel. You have to watch out if the Piston is in Compression Revelation or in the Exhaust Revelation. You should check the Valves when the Piston is in Compression which is given when the Cams both IN and EX Cams face outwards and all four Valves are loose. Please watch the the printed Numbers on the Shims. The Side with the Number should be placed into the Bucket. If you let them face to outside, the Numbers are gone immediately, which would lead to a Bummer the next Time your on to this Job.
  19. Froggie, that's the second best dumb Move to ensure that you're onto a massive overhaul of the Tranny....
  20. The Slots sure don't hurt the Integrity. But inho, they look a bit wierd. I have some Plugs lying around from the Vmax upper Handlebar Clamp. I'm pretty sure they will fit the Bolts. Will they cover the Holes ?? I don't know, yet.
  21. Maybe the Wires got pinched some Day and P/O made them up as Factory and produced a Extension Harness ?
  22. I just came home from my Garage. I dismounted the left Blinker and found the Wires Colors as stated above, leading to the left Speaker. But the Connector is white and, like i said above the Blades are parallel.
  23. Using fresh DOT 3 in the Clutch Line may not give any Problems. Other than this, refer to Yammer Dan's Statement. :rotf::rotf:
  24. I can't say anything on this Issue. My Bike has other colored(white/natural Plastic) and shaped(Spades are parallel) Connectors for the Speaker and i don't remember seing any green Connector on my Bike. From the Place the Connector sits on the Frame and Wiring Harness, i'd say this isn't right for Speaker Connector.
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