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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Not for me, when i ping venturerider.org i still get the IP 64.somtheing pinged, not the 67.newServerIP It takes some time, and i know how to work around it ...
  2. Thanks Condor :big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:
  3. what does N.O.S. mean ?
  4. Just told my WIfe about you're onto selling the Pond ... She said .... "What does he do with a new/rebuilt Gazebo without a Pond next to it ?
  5. I really can distinguish whether it's Mikuni or Yamaha ... I wrote and meant Mikuni. Here's our Dealer in Germany, Stephen Topham, i think he's from UK somewhere, but lives in Germany for a very long Time. www.mikuni-topham.de
  6. Nathan, i think you have to decide which route you want to go. Just give your Ride another Color or getting a Paint Job done. A single Color (black is very often in the Spray Gun at a Painter) shouldn't cost you an Arm and a Leg. And with proper Preparation, this would look good and last a long Time. If you have no Expierence in Painting, you can expect a Result inbetween, "Man, i should have let someone else do it" and "I could have done better". A good Quality Rattle Can isn't cheap anymore. If you choose to try it on your own, maybe it's better to think of black matt.
  7. You can get any Carb Part for our V4 Carbs(BDS34/35) from Mikuni, but you're right, there's no Catalog which lists Bikes and Mikuni Parts.
  8. Sorry Greg, i didn't had time to go after this Issue this Week. We have a Lot of Holidays here, so Working Time is less and very intense. What would you call a useful Catalog ??
  9. That's not a good starting Point for a EFI Project, too old Technology and to expensive for the Parts Age and Technology. If you have a Bike which the TB Set would bolt on, ok, that would be Ok, but anything else ... i'd pass.
  10. I sincerely second Rocket's Statement
  11. I'd say Regulator/Rectifier is bad
  12. Too tight Head Bearings are easy to judge. If you're not able to ride in straight Line at lower Speeds and always need redirect the Bike, the Bearings are too tight. Other than this Condition is fine or too loose.
  13. My Government wants a Piece of Paper for every Part on the Bike which isn't from the Manufacturer or approved by the Manufacturer. The Tire Company are allowed to do their own testing and release their own Papers. You have to download them from the Net and go to a Dealer for his Undersign and Stamp and need to carry this with you every Time. If Tires are not approved by Manufacturer or Tire Company, you can get them inspected and written into the Vehicle Papers. IF you find an Engineer which is willing to sign for it and and of Course paying big Bucks for that Undersign. Single Approvement for a Set of Tires goes around the Costs of a State of the Art radial rear Tire, 180 Euros. If you can't find a Guy with Allowance to sign up or no one who's willing to do so ... well your ride illegal. As our Vehicle Papers are full of technical Informations and if the Police can't find the Part in the Papers, you'll find yourself in serious Trouble. Over the last 4 Years the Modifications on my Max, cost me around 1200 Euros just for such Inspections and Papers. The standard Form for any Vehicle is about the Size of 4 Credit Cards lying next to each other, my Max has 2 Sheets extra in same Size for Extensions. Back to the Venture .. Michelin just decided not to do testing and Paperwork for the Bike, usually because the Lack of Market, so, no more Commanders for me ....
  14. Avon recommended Pressures are 36 psi in front and 42 for the rear http://www.avon-tyres.co.uk/motorcycle/?page=fitment&method=fitments&manufacturer=66&id=1632&model=1300&year=1992
  15. Squeeze

    Speed

    had recurring Problems from 7 Hours ago, but after hitting Reload, the Board loaded but responded very slow. Six Hours ago, the Server was plain gone with Error 500 and 440.
  16. I'd lube all the Pivots and the Linkages between the Shift Lever and the Shift Shaft Connection under the Engine and see if it helps.
  17. Brad, check for the recommended Prressures from Avon and lower the Pressure in the Tires first, before getting into serious Work. I don't know how much Pressure is recommend by Avon for the Bike and the Tires, but riding Solo at posted max Pressure in the rear and almost max on the front doesn't do anything good. Seems all the newer Tires need the Pressure at the lower End of the Range, just as much as needed to not overheat them. I ride the Metz ME 880, due to our stupid Rules, but i had Michelin Commander(illegal) prior to them. I liked them more.
  18. Your good Deed for the Day was done. Good Job !!
  19. JT, those News really made my Day. I'd thought about you both every single and was waiting for good News to come. Keep up the Fight.
  20. PC 680 as far as i can read the Label in the Picture
  21. These are Mikuni or Keihin Flat Slide Carbs. You even can get them in 41 mm Boring. But they are expensive, very very hard to adjust and most of them are very poor in Throttle Response in lower RpM. Power on top End is awesome. The flat Slides are connected direct to the Throttle Cables and you need to adjust the Accelerator Pumps about every Month to the varying Weather Conditions. Because of the bigger Boring, the Mixture Buildup on low Revs is poor and therefore it ends up in very poor Mileage at most Cases. Better to mount a Hitch and trailer your own Barrel of Gas. They are not the Way to go today. If you want to spend a Lot of Money, better go for a EFI. Easier to adjust to our Needs and way better Mileage.
  22. enough Power ?? Is it a Rolls Royce ?? :rotf::rotf: Sorry, just kidding Sincerly, i don't think enough is enough. When i ride my Max and then the Venture, i allways feel there's missing something. Maybe the 40 hp ?? I've ridden a Lot of real powerful Maxxes and i can tell you, there's nothing like a 1500cc with EFI. You just can't hold on to the Handlebars. These Motors will pull the Arms out of you. Now, the Costs are another Story but i can feel my Mouth getting wet and the Dribble running down every Time i think of it. If i ever take out my VR Engine, i sure wouldn't bring it back in. I'd mount my '99 Vmax spare Engine and save the 1300 cc for an Update and mount it in my Max afterwards. The Vmax Engine in the Venture has also a downside. The Vmax gearing isn't perfect for the Venture and for my Purpose. But i'm sure i'd come over that. For me, and for some others, it's not only a Question about more Power, it's an Attitude to tinker around and find some of the lost Horses inside the Casing. It's a 'Hey, i can do it' Thought and the wonderful Feeling of winding out these V4's in second and third Gear and really feel the Power. A Lot of Power is there, we just need to shake the Horses a bit and awake them. The Satisfaction of that is more than just more Power or more Torque. It's a wonderful Reimbursement and a good Way to get rid of the daily Stress some of us suffer from.
  23. something like this ??
  24. Dan, i don't see antything that wouldn't fit togehter. If you're in Doubt about the Sealing of the Vmax bottom, carefully apply some Grease to the O-Ring and mount the Manifold to your Motor. AFter you hve undone it, the Grease will show you where the O-Ring found a Seat or not. Watch for the Bolts which go into the upper Hole near the Intake Valves, they are shorter than the others.
  25. JB, were going into Philosophy here. I for one wouldn't go to individual Filters on a VR. Yes with a complete Carb Kit, like the Dyno Stage7 Kit, you could gain some Horses over the complete RpM Range, at a respective and respectable Fuel Consumption. But this is valid for a complete Vmax Setup and i'm pretty much sure the Stage7 wouldn't work with a complete VR Setup. Vmax Setup means 35mm Carbs, always open V-Boost Butterfly Valve and the Vmax Spark Timing, which is a bit different to the VR Timing. Not to mention different Cams and Valve Diameters. But the most Gain is in the upper third of the RpM Range, where we VR Riders are not that often, at least when thinking about Speed Limits, of Course. For long Distance Riding is a Setup with an Airbox better, because you gain more Torque than hp and keep the best working Range where we ride, in the middle of the Bandwidth. This isn't hurting the Consumption necessarily. The Carbs are not restricted by the Airbox, the Carbs in Fact are restricting the whole Intake System. If you mount larger Carbs, you will gain a Lot of Power, just because the Engine takes everything what your able to deliver at a good adjusted Mixture and transfers it to Power and Torque. On a Vmax, you can wake 15 to 20 Horses just by mounting 39 mm Carbs. An open Lid on the Airbox hurts in two Way the Response of the Carbs and the Intake System. One Thing is due to the open Lid, there is too much Air on the Intake and the System is not calibrated for this. The other Thing is, the Lenght of the Intake System is a Lot shorter than with the Lid mounted. Because of too much Air AND a less 'ducted' Air System, the Throttle Response is very poor or the Motor isn't even able to hold Idle RpM. As you might know, tinkering with the Carbs on the V4 Setup is a major PITA, getting it on a Dyno would need to find a somehow basic working System, sort of a educated Guess, before let it run on the Dyno, at least if you wouldn't spend Money on 20 or 25 Dyno Runs. I think a very educated Guy with a huge Cabinet full of Jets and Needles could work it out in 15 Runs or so. Seeing six Runs per Day as possible, this would make it at least 2.5 Days on the Dyno ... Not to mention the Tire would be be new at the Beginning and ruined afterwards. All this being said, i recommend to keep the Airbox in Place or convert to a Vmax Airbox. Because the Vmax has a slightly larger Airbox and a clearer Setup inside the Box. btw .. if you think about how much Gain is possible ... I had my Max on the Dyno, first Run without V-Boost activated at 80kw on the rear Wheel, second Run was with V-Boost activated at 6k RpM @ 88kw. Gain on Torque was 3 Percent by active V-Boost.
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