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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Good Morning, in my Experience, i'd say not to tinker around with the Carbs if you want to keep the Ride for a longer Time. Get them off the Bike, take them apart completly, bring them somewhere and have them cleaned with a ultrasonic Cleaner. Then put them back togehter and have a secure Point made and it's done right without leaving any Doubt. The Result is Loss of some Money, gained Power and gained Consumption.
  2. In your Analysis, did you only rely on the Temp Gauge or did you measure the Temps of the Water ? You know, red Zone is a wide Range and sometimes the Sensor for the Guage has a Contact Problem ...
  3. probably add 'dumb' before Stealer ?
  4. What Month in 2009 could it happen to come true ??
  5. You can check of the Fan is working by simply shortcut the two Wires at the Connector with a Wire and Ignition on.
  6. It'S either #6 or 7 ... 6 THERMO SWITCH ASSY 3LN-82560-01-00 1 $23.86 7 THERMO SWITCH ASSY 3YX-82560-00-00 1 $36.62 http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Yamaha/1999/Motorcycles/18038_electrical2.gif
  7. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/products/metric_cruisers/dyna_3000/
  8. They are beneath the Diaphragm Bowls. If there are Brass Plugs (#20 in the Fiche) nobody touched them before.
  9. Part no 19 in the Fiche Pilot Screw http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Yamaha/1990/Motorcycles/385_carburetornoncaliforniamodel.gif
  10. Nice Job Condor, but i think there is a Baffle loose in the Collector or a Downpipe is rattling a bit. :rotf::rotf::rotf:
  11. George, as Rick wrote, the Amount Method doesn't work out right in most Cases. The only accurate Method is to measure the Levels and basically ensures both Legs travelling the same Way and keep them parallel during mechanic Movement. You have to remember, most of the Springs are progressive nowadays. Which basically means that you amplify the Effect of different mechanical Damping on every Point of the Travel by different Air Pressures which are inherent at different Oil Levels. Jeremy, your right about the Math and about the Springs taking up the 10 Percent Air Chamber. But if you keep the Oil Level high, it doesn't effect the mechanical Damping and Rebound, but makes up an hydraulic Stop before the Fork bottoms out mechanically. This is a much smoother Stop than letting the Tube bang on the Ends. If you want to limit the overall Travel of the Legs, you can overfill the Legs. But this doesn't apply to our Forks, because pressing Oil in the Air Lines is not a good Idea, to say it at least. Now, all that said, to point it out once more, some of our Bikes seem to have an incurable Tendency to express a Wobble under certain Circumstances, we can't do much more as to ensure that all the Basics are right to to the Point. My Venture does it also, and i hope i can report good or at least better News when i got it back on the Road.
  12. Well, i figured it out. The Oil level has setted over night to 250 mm Airchamber without the Springs. The Distance from Top of the Fork Leg to the Air Connector Hole is 60 mm. The stock Springs are with 23 Windings inside the Oil after mounting. This equals to 2.33 mm per Winding, or an Air Chamber with Leg compressed and Spring setted into the Leg at 195 mm. Now, we do some Math and find 135 mm of Travel plus 60 mm have to remain under Air any Time, which makes the Air Chamber with Spring at 195 mm. Yammis stated in the Specs 197mm. It seems my 195 mm are the Answer to the Question 'What is the Oil Level of a MKII Fork defined by Yammi Specs?' The Facts are: Stock Spring full compressed Fork Tubes no Spring attached Airchamber more than 250 mm from Top of the inner Tube
  13. Greg, if i can be helpful, i'd translate
  14. Engine Oil is coming out of the Center of the Crankshaft and is spilled all over the Stator by the Wire which is turning like the Crank. This Oil 'cools' the Stator.
  15. Squeeze

    Ear Plugs

    For those who want to fight the Noises, and can't wear Earplugs, i suggest to have a look at Baehr Silencer Helmets. Very fine Piece of Craftsmanship and it works Wonders. I have a Silencer I, the old Version, but the Silencer II is better in all Subsidiaries of a Helmt. And evan this old Version is better in Noise Surpression than my Schuberth S1, even if Schuberth claims to have a very silent Helmet.
  16. Mixture is sucked through the Combustion Chamber without being ignited. The Mixture get pumped into the Exhaust and when there is anything which can ignite the Mixture. That's may be a real hot Exhaust or hot Gas which comes from the Combustion Chamber after Bike's Ignition is back on duty.
  17. Front Brakes can be upgraded with other Calipers from a YZF-R1/R6/FJR and a Mastercylinder from a Roadstar or something. Estimated Costs are 200 to 250 USD for used but fine Parts.
  18. I didn't take any Chances and sprayed the Forktubes for Cleaning and Lubricating before even trying to move them.
  19. Oh, i forgot to mention. There is a Wire insider the Center Bolt on the Crank. Don't forget to put it in before mouting the Stator Cover. This is the Stator 'Cooler Element'. The early Bikes didn't have had this Wire, and got the Stator fried soon. There was a Factory Recall on this Issue.
  20. I'm sorry to say, but you need another Stator. It's not that hard to do. New Seals on the the Stator and middle drive Gear(left rear) Covers and your back in Business. Watch out for the lower Bolt on the middle Drive Gear Cover, there has to be a copper Washer.
  21. I think you should recheck the Voltages. Do NOT unplug the Connector. Place the red Probe Wire into the Connector at #1 and measure the Voltages on #2 and #3. Then let the Wire stuck at #3 and measure it against #2. You can access the Connector Spades from the Side where the Wires go into the Connector.
  22. At least you didn't call the Tow Truck ... I think you should have placed one Hand on the right handle Bar while grabbing down and fiddle at the Carbs with the other Hand. Now, with a little smile on your Face, push the Button and whalla ... Engine runs .. with a satisfied Grin on your Face from well knowing owner, grab the Helmet and ride off ....
  23. Overflow of Fuel into the Cylinder, due to bad Floater Level or crusted Floater Valve. Or a weak Coil
  24. Jack, i'm with you on a larger Air Chamber allowing better Adjustment, due to the larger Amount of Air needed to built up any Pressure at all. But nearly all the Bikes i worked on have had an Air Valve to fine tune the Settings. The early Maxxes have the same Connecting System as the Ventures, the later Maxxes have single Shrader Valves on the Top of each Leg, my Hondas have had them in both Ways. But all these other Bikes have one Thing in Common, a way smaller Air Chamber than Yammi states as a Result of the filling each Leg with 409 ml of Oil. That's where my common Sense kicks in and says 'Stop !' and think about it. Basic hydraulic Damping and Rebound isn't affected by the Pressure of the Air Chamber in the Legs. The overall Damping is affected from more or less Volume of Air in the Air Chamber and the corresponding Pressure that builds up by the Compressor during filling or the Fork compressing during the Ride. You change the Behaviour of a basic Suspension by setting them on different Oil Levels and even limit the Travel when you overfill the Legs. But if you want to have a good Suspension you need to do first Things first. Basic Setup is to ensure that both Forklegs have the same Fluid Level. As Rick stated, and i fully second his Statement, the Quantity Method isn't anywhere near as accurate as it should be. Once you got the same Level in both Legs, you can play with different Levels and test ride them all. I really thought about mounting Shrader Valves to the top Heads of the Legs for easier adjustment. I will figure out a Level later, and if i don't like the Outcome, it will go that Route.
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