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saddlebum

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Everything posted by saddlebum

  1. With all the free food you offered them . . . . . you would think the least they could have done was to offer to finish off your siding for you. :rotfl:
  2. Sorry about your predicament, but why did you try to pull the metal ring out ? To get the plastic rings off, you simply nip them in half with a pair of wire cutters and then to install the diaphrams you simply gently stretch them over the lip of the metal sleeve. Just don't over strecth them. see the instruction sheet http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html
  3. I agree, but it is a simple enough check to just eliminate the possibility, as remote as it may be.
  4. When you say olive oil, are you including Pure Virgin Olive Oil :think: I have ran the Amsoil synthetic motor oil in my 89VR but switched back regular non-synthetic oil . I found my engine sounded a lot more mechanically noisy with the synthetic, speacially the vlaves.
  5. A short test in the shop may not catch an overcharging sustem if it is a suttle one or intermitant. Put a volt meter on the battery and moniter charging, while riding. There are usually only two reason for acid smell. defective battery (eg: a bad or shorted cell in the battery) or overcharging charging system boiling the battery. Moniter the voltmeter while riding to see if at any time the voltage exceeds 14.8 volts. Another quick simple check is with ignition left off, disconnect the ground cable from the battery. Connect one lead of the voltmeter to the neg post of the battery and the other end to the disconnected ground cable (an ammeter would be better for this but not everyone has one and the voltmeter will suffice). Reverse leads if the needle swings in the wrong direction or if using a digital it shows neg voltage. You should see less than 1/2 a volt, If it shows more, say as high as 10 to 12 volts you have a parasitic drain. Start pulling fuses one at a time until the voltmeter drops, this will indicate which cicuit is draining the battery. Put the fuse back in and start disconnecting individual items on that circuit to pin it down to the cause. Keep in mind that some items like the radio or othe on board electronics do constantly draw some power to maintain memory. Disconnet thier fuses to remove them from the equation.
  6. Congratulations Bob. Enjoy your new found freedom. I guess this means Goldie will be seeing some major TLC--- in between parties of course. ....... :think: Uhh speaking of which -----When is the party:dancefool::dancefool:
  7. My left front fairing actually consists of two good halves bonded together with plastex and reinforced with fiberglass drywall tape on the inside embedded in more platex. So far no one has been able to pick out were I spliced the joint, so for all intents and purposes it is as good as new. Final answer . . . . keep them you never know.
  8. ...It was probably his 1st bike and a Harley at that. ... ...As a result he was most likely super impressed with himself...... ....Guess thast didn't last long... :rotfl:
  9. I called him on the phone via the number he provided in the other post and As it turned out, the headlight was not the issue. It was taillights that cut out. I pulled up some schematics and tried to help as much as possible over the phone. I believe he managed to run a bypass wire to his taillights to get himself mobile. A note of thanks to those members that over the years went to the trouble of converting schematics and manuals into PDF files and posting them. As a result I managed to compile quite a folder and as a result this file has come in handy on more than one occasion.
  10. Its nice that she is home, but it would be even nicer and a lot less worrisome If they had some answers. Still hoping and praying that whatever it is/was is not serious and may just be some sort of bug that once it runs its course, all will be well again.
  11. Hey Dan, do we need to ask how you know,..... or would you prefer we didn't
  12. I called him up, pulled up schematics and attempted to help him as much as I could over the phone. Just got off the phone with him he has run a bypass to get some lights and is getting packed up to roll again.
  13. Check the start button on the handlebar. the start button also cuts out the headlight when depressed. They tend to get dirty inside and some times stick part way. When this happens they fail to reconnect the headlight contact. I had this happen to me also, discovered it after changing the bulb. It comes apart and goes back together easy but watch for small parts and springs (they like to fly ). simply take it apart clean it up and put back together. takes about 30-40 minutes PS before pulling it apart you can try pulling on the start button to make sure it has come all the way back out. If the headlights come on when you pull on the button then just make your way to a better location to do the clean mentioned above. If you don't want to pull it apart for fear of loosing a small part try blowing compressed air around the start button and any opennings you see to attempt to just blow it clear for now.
  14. AHH yes ...open mouth ....insert foot Hope he had is walking shoes on instead of his riding boots:rotfl:
  15. Check the bead line around the rim and make sure it has settled into the rim proper and true all around and equal on both sides
  16. Be sure to follow the instal directions in this link http://www.jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html speacially the part about the open hole location.
  17. Don't know how I missed seeing this yesterday but I sure hope and pray she is doing much better today and that it was nothing more then a bit of a fright ( that being bad enough as it is). Hope and pray the doctors get to the bottOm of this and soon.
  18. Yes thanks for the update.
  19. Try the set offered by JBM industries. I bought a set found them easier to instal than the OEM style and so far have worked great. Their delivery was fast and price reasonable. Here is their link http://www.jbmindustries.com/index.html
  20. Here are the codes as copied from my owners manual E1 - Shows trouble on the system. (If detected by self check when power is turned on) E2 - Air preasure does not rise when the air compressor is operated E3 - The air compressor has been operated continuously for about one minute E4 - The preasure sensor has no output voltage E5 - Control unit has trouble E6 - Air preasure does not drop with the discharge valve opened. Hope this helps. However more often then not it is a cold solder joint opr crack as previously mentioned. The solder joints tend to look like little cones. Look for a little black ring around the cone usually about half way up the cone.
  21. Glad your daughter is doing OK and continues to do so. By coincidence I have been having similiar symptoms for the past three weeks. Have had my bowels purged, blood tests, ex-ray, catscan and ultra sound done and so far nothing shows up, yet I continue to have mild pain in the lower right qaurter of my abdomen. Think I will bring this up with my GP see what he say's.
  22. This is a common cause another is when a strand of the cable breaks free from the rest of the cable causing the cable to bind and jump. Glad you have it working now. You may want to post were you had the cable made, as sources for making up cables are getting scarce due to electronic sensors. I still have tools to make up these cables (somewhere ) I used to make up alot of them for transport trucks back in the 70's, but finding a source for cable is not so easy anymore.
  23. Thats right ... What Brad say's is very true ......They weren't selling enough repair parts so they had to come up with a newer model ...the second gen apparently fits the bill.
  24. WOW step of the site for a couple days and you go and have yourself a Birthday. Hope you had a good one Bob.
  25. Is it leather or vinyl ? If it is vinyl loctite sells a vinyl repair kit. If it is leather go to a shoe repair shop and get some leather dye. After it drys follow up with some lexol sold at most saddle tach shops.
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