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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    I do not know exactly what problem you are having w/ the class system? But if the compressor does work the rest of the electrics are usually easy to fix.
  2. jasonm.
    Are you are absolutely sure using a magnet on the area between the fork tube and stem...? As it stands only 1 post '89 has aluminum...may be there was a change?
  3. jasonm.
    Your mechanic missed something. Either the pilot gas jet(s) are clogged...which causes the bike to die below 2000.Or if rich w/fouled plugs the floats are way off. And the fact you got some black stuff out could mean the rubber jet plugs in these carbs are desolving. The plugs are shown in the service manual.
  4. jasonm.
    FYI- that shock does NOT allow use of your air system to increase preload. You must use the PIA rings to adjust preload. I am surprised those are still available. The price is the same as it was 10+ years ago.
  5. jasonm.
    I guess that's a good price. My local place gives 25% off Dunlops every spring. The "mark up" is big on Dunlop. And they stock them.
  6. jasonm.
    you are absolutely right on the "overboard". The odds are all would be fine. BUT the new bearings come with a rather thin seal when compared the original. And once you put the seal and bearing in place...that's it. If there is any fudginess...I'm stuck. And would have to order another bearing set.I only want to do this once. Lucky for me, I have a NOS lower tree coming w/bearing installed and race. I could take a chance on mine...and if okay. Then I'm set. Again, I only want to do this once. The only thing about the steel one...It would lessen the wheelies.
  7. jasonm.
    So far this is the oddest. As others with '90-'91 Royales have aluminum.
  8. jasonm.
    I have an unbiased magazine from way back. A bone stock 1st gen 1300VR with all fluids full of gas = 803#.The limit to load is generally the tire and suspension. BUT, don't forget the wheel bearings take all the load. Yes, wheel bearings do fail. Ask the owners of old GoldWings. Lucky for us the Venture uses a roller bearing on the left which is better than the GoldWings of way back's ball type bearings.
  9. jasonm.
    looking at Yamaha's web site for the U.S. . The "D" model signifies Deluxe or Royale. The only years this "D" does not show is the years I listed previous '83, '84, '88. In Canada and other countries this list may be different. Also, I have an '86 service manual for the U.S. It does not list the standard on the cover. only model listed is xvz1300ds and dsc(c= california), s= model year. So if you do have a 1300 standard, check the lower tree if possible.
  10. jasonm.
    5bikes, look at the poll. A few guys w/1200 standards have steel lower trees. I just need a few '88 1300 standard owners to check and reply. Correct me if I am wrong but Venture Standards were only made '83, '84 & ,'87 I think & '88 Thanks
  11. jasonm.
    Looking at the poll. I suspect that some of the standards and not Royale models used steel lower trees. This makes sense to balance the bike out considering the standard did not have the radio and other equipment in the front. The one the ebay guy sent me must have been from a standard. To be sure I would need some 1300 standard owners to reply to this.
  12. jasonm.
    $120 EACH !!! jeezzz. 5 years ago slide assys. were $45. I replaced all mine at that time. Now-Figure with all the inflation and economy as it is...$80 at the most. Maybe I am way off base. But that $120 price sounds like a rip off.
  13. jasonm.
    My best advice....If it ain't leaking...DON'T mess with it.
  14. jasonm.
    Be carefull of the aluminum . That's how I damaged mine...by changing out the bearings. I did not realize it was aluminum. So when I hammered away to get the old one off. I did it at the wrong spots. My tree is straight but the place where the shaft meets the aluminum "tree arm", where the seal sits, is not perfect. I could use my original. But being a perfectionist. I do not want to take a chance at the seal or bearing being ever so slightly "cocked". The correct way I got the bearing off. 1st- remove the caged rollers w/wire cutter. Then on what's left of the bearing on the shaft, cut mostly thru w/dremel tool. But not into the shaft. Then while the shaft is clamped in a vise with 2x4 blocks, hammer at the cut a bit w/screwdriver. Then you hammer from the BACK of the tree where the seal and bearing stick out. The bearing will crack and easily come off. Also , I need to hear from some post '87 owners to know if they did make a change. ALSO, what years are steel that are posted?...'83??? From what I am seeing on each posters profile. I think those who posted steel are non-Royale owners of '83 or '84. Correct me if I am wrong. Yamaha web site says same part all years. BUT that ONLY means they are interchangeable. They may have changed materials. My bike came w/aluminum...I want to keep it original. Plus my aluminum one has perfect paint. The steel one looks like hell in comparison. Bongobobny, I was hoping to get this done this weekend. But now it looks like next weekend at the soonest. Unless you have yours available sooner or find one on ebay and get it fast. I see where you live. If sent USPS I think it would hardly take more than 2 days to me. Email me if you wish. I am putting in the races(cups) today. Wow, you have 3 aluminum...any way of getting one to me sooner? I don't want to rush you. thanks..."J"
  15. jasonm.
    Hello, I have a damaged lower triple tree on my '87 VR. Mine is aluminum . I got one on Ebay that is steel yet is supposedly off an '88. Maybe I was sent a Vmax tree? Did they change these on the Venture and if so, when? I would have thought the 1200s may be steel but not the 1st gen.1300. As you know the Venture 1300 got heavier and Yamaha likely went to aluminum from the original steel.Can you 1st gen guys PLEASE check with a magnet if your lower tree is steel or aluminum. I will try to post a poll. Bottom line, I need a good aluminum lower tree like mine. And with everyone's feedback I will know which years to surely not to look at on Ebay. Thanks in advance. Email me if you wish.
  16. jasonm.
    EBay--- I see engines taken apart all the time. Selling tranny and other engine parts. Someone there must have a few of those around. Note: you should get a plastigauge from the NAPA auto for $3 to confirm the clearance is not too tight or too loose. SO get a few to be sure.
  17. jasonm.
    I have 2 almost new sets of EBC HH on my shelf. They were too agressive on the EBC new rotors I used. I had to use a very light touch at parking lot speeds. Meaning they bit in real fast...10mph to zero in 2 feet. EBC told me I must have gotten an early HH set and sent me another set at no charge. No difference with the second set. NOW I have SBS- HH . Less initial bite, easier to control.
  18. jasonm.
    One thing you should know. 1st the carbtune is an excellent item for carb syncing. 2nd, it works on a leak principle. Meaning when connected , it is not just a vacuum that raises the rods but the air traveling around under and over the rods. A vacuum alone on a solid object cannot defy gravity.There is a small hole under each rod which causing a slight lean condition. As the air rushes thru this tiny hole under and around the rod it is raised. JUST remember not to tune your low speed screws with this device connected. I have one...I like it.
  19. jasonm.
    I think he wants manual fan switch. DO NOT connect any +12 volts to the fan thermo-switch. The thermo switch is completing the ground side of the circuit. Thus you only need to run a ground wire to one side of the thermo-switch or the fan to make it run. Do you understand? Best if you have the service manual.
  20. jasonm.
    I have only needed 2 shims in 70k. First one was a ticking at 20k. Found just the one shim out,...I did check them all. Then 35k another tick once in a while, I checked again. Oh, another one a bit loose. Then 62k, checked them before a big trip . Same one loose last time got tight. So, in reality only 2 non-original shims in mine. The valve train in these is very durable.
  21. jasonm.
    note: I CHANGED MY PREVIOUS POSTING. I MENT CALIPERS FROM AN R1 WILL NOT FIT A 1200. tHE ROTORS ARE 282 mm on a 1300. I think the same for a 1200. The R1 rotors are 296mm and very thin. I know the bolt pattern 2001-2003 is same as 1st gens. If I am correct Rotor adaptation is not simple due to diameter difference as you state.
  22. jasonm.
    FYI-I do not believe the R1 calipers fit the 1200 Venture forks. The mounting points are different. The poor brake issue in France is likely the typical air bubble where the hose passes bye the steering neck. The 1300's have a bleeder to fix this. My memory says the 1200's did not.
  23. jasonm.
    I believe fuel mixture screws are brass...I don't know how much force they can take. I always resort to PB blaster...lots of PB. The carbs are not your typical aluminum. They are a different metal. Heat can damage them.
  24. jasonm.
    Bobcat, You use "Brake Fluid" to clean your rotors???? FYI , your pads clean them better than any steel wool.
  25. jasonm.
    A few shots of WD40 then fallowed w/PJ1 black chain lube may do the same as above. As I always lube all pivots and this is one of them.
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