Jump to content

BlueVenture87

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    108

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by BlueVenture87

  1. BlueVenture87
    Guess countersteerig is out of the question huh.
  2. BlueVenture87
    I plugged the hole in the rear of my Wing in a 3 month old Dunlop (not E3) about 8 months ago. No leaks yet and that was from a drywall anchor! Most of my mileage is in town commuting. I let the plug sit at the bottom of the wheel while it set overnight to allow the cement to pool around the plug. Plugging worked for me! Luck! JK
  3. BlueVenture87
    Stretching plastic wrap across the road seems to be a popular thing to do in Wisconsin. I can remember two cycle crashes, I believe one of them fatal, that made the news in recent years. Yup, it's one thing and another. -JK
  4. BlueVenture87
    What is the size and wall on the subframe tubing? I like the setup of the independent rear end / subframe clip. Thanks!
  5. BlueVenture87
    One note, if any of the scans mention a a generic rootkit or TDSS just move your files off and rebuild the machine from a formatted drive. Rootkits usually can't be completely scrubbed from a system. Once rootkitted the machine can never be trusted again. Malware Bytes works best for me, the free version is available after a quick click-through in the install, simply decline the full vesion offer. Luck! -JK
  6. BlueVenture87
    Hi folks, I've been tracking a charging problem on my machine and using the electrosport troubleshooter I believe I have the problem identified. As I see it, the brown wire on the R/R is an input to the unit and should supply system voltage to the R/R. It reads low on mine at the connector nearest the R/R. In my belief, connectors, then switches are more likely than wire to create voltage drops. The connector nearest the R/R checks OK in that voltage is the same on both sides (LOW). Where else should I look / test? Other connectors in the signal circuit to the R/R? How do I test out the ign switch? The other fix could be a later R/R with an internal sensing that would not rely on the brown wire to monitor voltage. I believe the Shindengen unit is like this. What is the list wisdom on this. The Electrosport guide indicates this is the hardest fault to find and, honestly, I need a hand. Everything I wrote above could be wrong, I'm building my Venture charging knowledge up even as I post this. Thanks in advance!
  7. BlueVenture87
    That one is actually funny Tell-us communications ROFLOL! That's better than my forgotten millions in any number of forign banks! -JK
  8. BlueVenture87
    helmeted riders were 22 percent less likely to suffer cervical spine injury than those without helmets. According to this study helmeted riders fare better is how I read this... -JK
  9. BlueVenture87
    Full helmet all the time, even when its amillion degrees out. I find riding without gets rather noisy and that makes it harder for me to keep focus. -JK
  10. BlueVenture87
    Small amounts of many materials can be had at www.onlinemetals.com. I'm not connected with the company, I use them for small orders of materials and have had fast service. -JK
  11. BlueVenture87
    Maybe this will fix the W7 compatibility thing -worked for us. Supporting versions of W7 seem to be a bit murky though so double check what you're running against requirements. http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/products/features/windows-xp-mode Luck -JK
  12. BlueVenture87

    tool

    BlueVenture87 replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    IMHO, a few things to bear in mind, first if the screw heads are boogered up there are TWO causes for it. First if they stripped out on the way in from using the wrong tool etc- easy outs, impact drivers and the like are great here. If it's messed up because it's galled, cross threaded or corroded easy outs and the like are asking for trouble becaust the threaded body will be as stuck as was when you started drilling. Sometimes, especially with plastic covers etc it's better to sacrifice the cover to get a better grip on the screw or to gain access for penetrating oil than it is to go right for the drill. Very true if the screw is locked up in an expensive machined part. I like to work at it in stages, least destructive / cheapest to fix first. If you can let the oil work for as many days as you can. Second, try to grab the head with a vise grip, No joy? Then maybe attempt to grind a slot in the screw head with a Dremel for a slotted driver or impact unit. (This is especially tough without 110V power but we used to run Dremel tools on a 12V car or boat battery and inverter) Can the head be knocked off to release the part while leaving a stub to grab? I've never had luck hand drilling a pilot hole down the center of a screw body by hand, upside down, in the dirt without knicking the edge of the thread and locking the parts together forever so I try to stay on top. Easy outs are a last resort. If you feel lucky and you need to drill a screw that holds a plascic, watch thh speed as the drilling can heat up enough to melt the part you want to save! Luck -Jim
  13. BlueVenture87
    I had the same proposition on a 800.00 minivan. Told him to bring cash and as you can guess no show. The funny part is that I had another call from out of state for the van and they did show up with a fistfull of small bills! Tell 'em to bring cash, That'll sort 'em out!
  14. BlueVenture87
    Time
  15. BlueVenture87
    Count my '82 GL1100 in!
  16. BlueVenture87
    OK, well, I've been fairly blessed with issues! What's the flywheel mod? THX -Jim
  17. BlueVenture87
    SO, here's the new issue. When my '87 is hot I get a gear clashing / crunch from the lower left as I am sitting on the machine when I hit the start button. This happens one out of four starts or so. Is this the starter clutch? The starter seems to be engaging and disengaging fine but the crunch is bad when it happens I saw the write up on starter clutches and it looks ugly so I want to attempt to confirm before popping covers off the engine. All the best! -Jim
  18. BlueVenture87
    Balanced the carbs today and they were really off. Things are better now and I have a direction for improvement on the drivability front. Of course new issues came up as usually happen when working on neglected equipment. I'll save that for a new thread. Thanks for all the help and providing me the confidance to open things up! -Jim
  19. BlueVenture87
    OK here is where things are. First, things arent really good enough in for the seafoam to take hold. (other problems) I managed to get the covers off and found the diaphragms largely good. One has a single pinhole in it another has a small thin spot that wants to be a hole so I'll order 2 new diaphragms. The big queston for today is the needle on each slide sems to flop around ane are rather loose. Is this right? There is a screw slot inside the slide. This tightens the needle? Maybe adjusts something? Don't know. Thanks to all so far! -Jim
  20. BlueVenture87
    I know this motor can run better, looks like I'm goin' in! It also looks like I'm going to use alot of other peoples heads since this will be the first CV carb work I've done. "I'm not a mechanic, but I play one on TV!" -Jim
  21. BlueVenture87
    So, my 87 project is running a bit rough so I do what any shadetree guy would do and I look down the carbs when the bike is running. I noticed that all the slides are vibrating at different rates with some more active than others. It this a balance thing? Might be shot diaphragms but on a machine this old as soon as I open the carb covers to check for pinholes the diaphragms will be shot because I opened up the chambers. Is there a visual diagnostic other than pulling the slides that indicates diapgragm condition? Letting sleeping dogs lie and all that...
  22. BlueVenture87
    I bet quite a few get home that way. Enjoy! -Jim
  23. BlueVenture87
    Hi folks! One quick question. I took the mufflers off to replace the rear tire and want to know if the gaskets are an "always replace" item or if they can be reused. They're stuck pretty good on the pipe but overall look smooth. I want to get a no leak job, can I use the gaskets over and simply remount the mufflers? Thanks! Jim
  24. BlueVenture87
    Yup, that one never fails to please. -JK
  25. BlueVenture87
    In the winter I build and race iceboats. Summer, in addition to riding, I sail softwater boats. And since three is a charm, lately I have been fixing and collecting vintage pinball machines. So, there you are! -Jim
×
×
  • Create New...