BlueVenture87

You're going to like the commute on that! I run mine about an hour and a half a day May to November! No sweat! -JK

Two things. First the perfect corner, executed perfectly. Happens every now and again but not so often that I get used to it. Second, feeling the temp drop as I go from ridge top to valley bottom on a ride. So, I guess, the quest for improvement and the connection with the elements. -JK

You do need to fill the entire cavity with grease. That's how new hubs come in the can around here. The grease is then changed by pumping new through the zerk at the back and out through the cap in the front, passing through both bearings Check the link to a video to show how these work. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200466886_200466886 Later! -JK

Recovery disk sets can usually be had from the manufacturer for about 20 bucks. I know HP and Toshiba do this. You'll need the serial number of the computer. (not the windows key so no worries that it's rubbed off.) Get the suspect drive into an external enclosure or install it into another Windows desktop as a second drive and get your files off if you can. Even if the drive looks usable, replace it. Drives are too cheap to screw around. The price you paid to get your taxes done once was likely more expensive. At work I tell my people the drive is worth about a hundred bucks, the data on it is worth your wage multiplied by the years the computer has been in service. Easy to hit 100 K for your data! While the Linux idea is sound you'll need a working PC to download the iso and make the live CD so skip that. If you have another PC to make the Linux CD then you can use it mount your suspect drive instead to get your stuff. If you can see your drive then get your stuff off right away without restarting the host system, the suspect drive might not start up another time! BTW, You got to watch those Linux evangelists, they'll say anything to get you to try it. Best! -JK

Assuming you have fixed the source of the oil then yes. Clean the rotors with brake cleaner, install the new pads and Bob's your uncle. -JK

That dell 620 is OK for plunking around on venturerider.org but I would get set up with new equipment for the windows 7 changeover. Linux and Apple are not viable alternatives if you're hiring consultants to help maintain your network. The Linux freedom fighters like to work harder for the same result and Apple is really a media company who makes shiny aluminum gear to sell you more rap MP3's It sounds like you are in a MS domain environment along with all that a structured system gets you. It's time to upgrade your stuff. A new Dell 9020 tower costs about 700.00 or so, if you want to save costs don't buy new monitors unless you're still running CRT's. The ones you have (even crt's if you have to) will work with the new desktops. I haven't looked at server hardware costs but server 2008 should have about 2 years life left. You'll need to be at the 2008 server level to run the Win7 clients to their full potential. If it were my shop I would get my server up to the Win08 level and run new Win 7 clients against the 08 server. Then make the jump to server 2012 at a later time. You make money with these systems, it's time to give the 8 year old 620's to your kids. The hardware is cheap when compared to the wages paid to create the data inside the machine. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! -JK

Been pinched like that twice now. Great ride in the morning put paid for it after work. Made it scuff-free both times though. After the second scary ride I found a great new riding tool - the weather forcast... -JK

Especially true since Palm quit making PDA's in 2010!

I can remember when XP was the dog OS and consultants and sales people at Compaq were advising to stick with Windows 2000. Lots of us simply have trouble with change... Win 8 likely won't go away for geeks though, you'll need it to admin 2012 servers (W7 wont do that.) And here's another stick in the eye, instructors are telling me that even the desktop computer is on it's way out. It'll be a tablet world baby! YMMV on that one though. -JK

I treat mine like a tent. When I started watching I was thinking folks like that have too much time. Then the snap-up finale pinned my ears back. Pretty neat. I might have to try that. -JK

"Got on Snopes and it's not on there as a hoax...." Actually a major component and driver of this article, the whole "Barry Soetoro" thing, is on Snopes as a hoax under "card tricks" Obama can't run again so consider putting energy into the next choice for POTUS and, really, quit whining about the past. Who is your favorite candidate for the NEXT election?

I bet this picture was taken on 01-03-2014 at 05:29 PM -JK

You'll need a panel/ panels and likely a charge controller. Of the available panels there are two types. The solid color grey or black ones are the low output type while the ones that look like shattered glass are the higher output ones. In full sun these panels will put out a lot of volts, the charge controller regulates this. Additionally solar panels will charge batteries during the day but at night they discharge batteries. The charge controller will also prevent this. If you design a system without a charge controller, look into "blocking diodes" to let the electricity in during the day and keep it there at night. Check online for Northern Arizona Wind and Sun for a place to get the parts to build a nice system. I'm not affiliated with them but have had some good service there when I built my 24V sailboat system. -JK

I'm not a professional fabricator so it's just hobby stuff for me. I use Cad Standard to design parts and send the file to www.bigbluesaw.com They send back the cut parts. It works for the once in a while item. Since the dwg file is industry standard they can use files from any software program that outputs in dwg. In real life I'm a computer geek. Best! -JK

I use cad standard. the free version is missing some key features but at about 40.00 for a single user it's worth it. I've run the dwg files on waterjet cutting machines with complete success. http://www.cadstd.com/ Best! -JK

Hi folks, I bought a new to me GW 1500 this summer to commute on that came with some cans of cleaning goo from Honda. I'm out now and am too cheap to buy more of this Honda-brand spray cleaner. I've seen some comments on spray Pledge and am wondering what the whole deal is. Is this a joke to get the new guy to spray lemony slippery stuff all over the seat? (Armor-All was a hoot when applied to my cousins minibike seat when I was 12 ) Maybe it's good for bodywork and paint? Windshields? All of the above? Lastly, in the case of the blown up can in the saddle bag, Maybe just a trip to the store for a can of Pledge... LEMME KNOW before I resort to experimentation in the evil-mechanics lair! Best! -JK

if you can't catch your fingernail in it you can usually buff it out. A power wheel with a variable speed trigger is best. I use a Milwaukee 9" grinder / polisher and 3m finesse-it. If you want to do it at home and are bufferless, you can use 3M finesse-it on a cloth but this can be work. Don't use the light tan polish in a can, it's too coarse and the result will be a hazy shine. Most of the fine grit stuff is white in color. Like I said, a power buffer is nice but I still tape off any sharp-radius corners on bodywork as the polisher on an edge will cut the paint right off. I watched a paint guy at Maaco polish out a light scrape on my pickup this way and it took him less than 10 minutes from the desk to when I was out the door so it shouldn't cost much at all to get it done. He went right for the fine grit right away and didn't work through any grit sequence. This is especially useful if the goal is to reduce the damage and not eliminate it as the area around the damage already has a shine and there might not be much paint thickness left to work through grits. Best -JK A post from 2012, Guess I need to step away from the screen... -JK

Sooo. almost got creamed by a tractor-trailer on the morning interstate commute. Just a little lane changing turned lane sharing. Scary but no lost parts or contact. I foundout stock horns really aren't that loud when you need them. List wisdom points me to a Stebel or Wolo unit. Just how weather proof are these. Will they hold up if mounted, lets say, in front of the radiator? I ride in all weather, March to November in Wisconsin so you know they're going to get wet. Also this is for my Honda GL1500 commuter machine. Any tips for horn mounting with all that Tupperware? Thanks in advance! -JimK

First was a minibike and then a mid 60's Honda 125 street bike pressed into dirt bike service. Crashed it at low speed at the Aztalan Cycle Club grounds. Bike survived fine but I still remember the hit and how hard it was to get back on my feet and back in the saddle!

Two reasons for putting in a relay, be it either controlled by a switch or headlight. Fiirst is the wire required to run a high draw devices tends to be heavier stuff to avoid voltage drop. It gets tough to run adequate gage wire to the places folks want switches. Second, most "15 amp" switches have a much lower continuous draw rating and will melt if running a high draw device through it for any length of time. Control the relay with the light gage wire and pass the serious current through the relay. You and your machine will be happier and safer for it! Best! -JK

Thermarest is the only thing for me. Don't over inflate it though they are more comfortable when they're floppy. I pack a patch kit with mine and only had to use it once in the 20 years I have had it. Patch kit installs with glue and cures by setting a pan of boiling water on it to simulate the heat of an iron. Slick! Anyway, we've tried other copies and they don't roll up as tightly as the Thermarest. I've used mine for 4 season backpack camping and it hasn't failed to deliver yet! even after all this time I can still get the roll down to 6 or 7 inches in diameter without loss of comfort. Best! -JK

This is the difficult side of personal freedom. If you're up to it, show him the clutch "slip zone" like the first day at MSF, maybe work countersteering into the conversation. In WI if you present a completed MSF certificate you get to bypass the DOT road test. That's a pretty big carrot that your neighbor might not know about. Other than that it's a personal choice. I have a friend that had a Hayabusa in his mid 20's he's still around so it might work out. BTW my friend did crash his doing about 40 into a curve but he still rides none the less. At least your neighbor has some crash protection and didn't get a brand "H" machine where your sunglasses are the only protection the lifestyle allows for many riders. Luck! -JK

I've has a couple times when similar events have happened on my rides. Check the battery connections. I had one that was sensitive to damp weather, I would get lights and other light load electrical but not even a click out of the starter. A brush and tighten the connectors at the battery and I was good to go. -JK

The Perseid Meteor Shower peak is Aug 11-13. North woods dark would show them off nice! These peak between the 11-14 but there will be strays to see off peak. http://earthsky.org/astronomy-essentials/everything-you-need-to-know-perseid-meteor-shower

If this were mine I would put the other motor in and call it good. It could be a good engine or bad. The thing is you can't tell ahead of time so worrying about it is somewhat a waste of energy. Swap it and ride it! Swap it and ride it while you repair the original. A swap is a big job but it's an old bike. Don't let better stand in the way of good. Ride it! You have done the tests and likely isolated the trouble on motor 1, try motor #2!