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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    I cannot advise on replacement bolts in this application, other than to go with what the manufacturer of the clutch plate specifies. I am neither a metallurgist nor an engineer with the proper training to properly specify the product and use. But here is what I think I know (and do not know). First, I cannot say why the stock clutch bolts are spec'ed so soft, nor why they use such a minimal torque. But I do assume there is some very valid reason for that design. I know that actual torque specs for a specific bolt take into consideration the strength of the bolt and thread size, and the appropriate torque actually stretches the bolt without damaging it. And in really critical applications the torque value is not even actually used - the proper measurement is the STRETCH of the bolt. So this may be a clue why the stock bolts are so soft with the very low torque spec. Harder bolts will not stretch the expected amount at appropriate torque, which will affect how the bolt actually holds in place. As for thread locker - I would never use it in any internal engine application where it was not specified. I do not have any strong reasons for that - I just suspect it is not wise. Goose Just to make it clear, for this application I would ONLY use new bolts ordered from Barnett, or, if they say the bolts are stock Yamaha bolts, order them from Yamaha. And I am NOT impressed with Barnett's cop-out BS about no instructions; it may be fine for other bikes, but in this situation, that is just STUPID!!! Their pressure plate and springs are a totally different design and technical principle than the stock design, so to just let their customers guess that it should be done the same as the factory manual says is beyond the pale. Based on this one piece of information alone, I am now certain I will never buy one of their parts.
  2. V7Goose
    Like I said, call the manufacturer and get the spec straight from them. If you ever tighten a bolt MORE than the torque spec for that bolt, even one time, it must be thrown away. It does absolutely no good to loosen it and re-torque it to some lower value - the damage to the metal is already done. Clutch bolts, and any other internal engine bolts, are REALLY dangerous if over torqued because of what you can imagine will happen if you have a chunk of metal bouncing around inside the engine and transmission! The Barnett bolts may be much stronger than the stock clutch bolts, where 8 or even 10 lbs will not actually damage the bolt, but it is foolish to assume that. Stock Yamaha clutch bolts break VERY easily if over torqued. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    I do not know if the Barnet plate uses different bolts with a different torque spec, but 8 lbs is SERIOUSLY over torqued for the stock bolts. The spec is 5.8 lbs. If those are stock bolts, you need to throw them away and start with new ones. Your engine is in significant danger if you have exceeded the torch spec for the bolts. If you got new bolts with the pressure plate, you need to call the manufacturer and get the proper torque value from them. This is serious. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Well, with a stock pressure plate, trying the clutch with the plate hung up on the end of the hub won't cause a problem, at least if it is only tried once. I do not know about pumping the clutch lever. The following is theory only, as I have never actually done this, but it is probably possible for the piston to be pumped clear out of the clutch slave cylinder just like you can do the brake pistons if you pump them without the pads in place. If you are real low on fluid now, it certainly sounds like that might have happened. I do not know if you can inspect that by just pulling the clutch basket or if you need to remove the slave cylinder, but that may be your next step. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Hopefully you did not depress the clutch lever while the clutch was apart - I will assume you did not. Usually the problem you describe is caused by the pressure plate not being properly fitted to the teeth on the clutch hub. When you first position the pressure plate and insert the bolts, but BEFORE they are even finger tight, you need to slightly wiggle the pressure plate back and forth to make sure it fits down INTO the teeth instead of being caught on the end of the hub. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    There is nothing wrong with just leaving one of the stock horns alone - it won't be heard under the air horn, but will be a backup in case the air horn fails. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    I agree that the modulators are dangerous. But they are not anywhere near as dangerous as those riders who enjoy deliberately annoying and irritating drivers of other vehicles. Those people put everyone on the road in danger by their actions, and they harm all motorcycle riders by doing those things while on a bike. Riders who laugh at how they confuse cage drivers and get them to pull over fit into this category, just like the ones who pull wheelies on public roads and deliberately block traffic just to make people mad. There are no words suitable to describe those type of people, at least not on a family rated site. We do not like how many cage drivers treat us, but we are often our own worst enemies. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Thin flat plate (like a tin washer) goes in first, then the half disk with the wave washer inside of it, then a steel disk. Now the wire wraps around the hub and the ends poke down inside a hole. I'm pretty sure that the wires fits into a little groove in the hub, but cannot swear to that. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Your plug mileage is absolutely not normal. Although the specified change interval is 8,000 miles, many of us go 20,000 to 50,000 on a set without problems. Your descriptions said the plugs look good when you pull them, so I doubt there is anything actually wrong with them, just that your bike is barely able to make the correct spark even when they are new. That problem is probably not on all cylinders. 10 years is plenty long for plug wires to break down, but that is more common with carbon core than our copper core wires. Your most likely problem is the plug caps. A weak battery can also contribute to the problem. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Minimum length for a search string is 4 characters, that is to prevent overload on the server by churning through too many pointless possibilities on miscellaneous character combinations. It is too bad since so many key terms are three letter acronyms now, but that is the limitation. One of the tricks to successful searches is to think about other longer words that might have been used in posts about the same subject. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Have you opened the gas tank at any time when you are having problems? Sounds to me like a vacuum lock on the tank. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Gee, I was gonna wait until he said he actually had the problem so I could ride in on my silver horse and save the day! Oh well . . . Officially, the only option is to replace the coils with attached wires. The cheaper solution is to find a source for NGK wire splices (or any other brand), buy some new stranded copper plug wires in any color that excites you, cut the old wires off about 1.5" from the coils and screw the new wires on. All done. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Sounds to me like you have a weak spark - probably plug caps or wires, maybe both. Easy to check the resistance of the caps - been discussed here in many older threads. Should be about 10K each. Plug wires are not replaceable (officially), but fairly easy to check with a spray bottle after dark. The darker the better for this test. Start the bike, adjust the spray to the finest mist possible, and start misting around each wire. Be sure to briefly snap open the throttle several times while watching each wire, since that is the point when the spark has the toughest time. If the wires are bad, you will see sparking or a blue aura around the wires during this test. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Lots of Shell Rotella dino oil (white bottle) always available at Sam's stores in this area, both 1 gallon and 3 gallon jugs, for about $9/gallon. I think they even have it in 50 gallon drums, but I don't use quite that much! Goose
  15. V7Goose
    I do not have a trike, and my sidecar is on a 40 year old Moto Guzzi, so the following suggestion is NOT based on personal experience, but - I think if I had an RSV trike or hack outfit, the first tire I would try is the one I most despise on a two-wheel RSV: the stock Brickstone Exedra in stock 150/80-16. Here are my reasons: This tire has a very effective dual compound design that always has the tread left in the center of the tire when all of it is gone on either side (speaking about use on a two-wheeled RSV, of course). Since a three-wheeled bike spends the vast majority of time only on the center of the tread, this is a good thing. Second, this overly fat tire has only a slightly round profile, which will allow a larger contact patch when used in your application. Third, you can probably pick one up dirt cheap, or even free, from an educated RSV owner who was smart enough to remove that terrible tire soon after buying the bike; that means you can try one at minimal cost. Do not be misled by my use of the term "terrible tire", as that applies specifically to a normal RSV. On two wheels, the stock Brickstone tires are indeed the worst, most horrible terrible tires you could possible run. But I suspect that front tire will be a very good choice for a three-wheeled RSV. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    You didn't bother to tell us what model of bike you have, nor how old it is, but I'll assume it is an RSV. Your specific symptom of only the volume knob not working is not a common complaint, so it sounds like the control head may be bad. However, it is quite common for relatively new RSVs to have intermittent problems with various control head functions, and this is usually caused by poor pin contact in one of the round plugs inside the fairing, so that would be a good place to start. Split the fairing and find the bundle of round plugs next to the right side of the radio (the throttle side). Unplug and replug each of them several times so any surface oxidation will be rubbed off the pin contacts. Now use a bit of dielectric grease on the contacts before you put each of them back together the last time - that will prevent any future problems. If your problem is not in the control head itself, this will fix it. Goose Just thought of another test that my help isolate the problem to either the actual volume knob or the radio. When you turn on the CB and then push the CB button a second time you can adjust the squelch up and down. Interestingly, the squelch can be changed with EITHER the up/down buttons OR the volume knob, so try both. If only the up/down buttons change the squelch, you won't know any more than you do now, but if the volume knob also changes the squelch, then you have proven that the knob does still work.
  17. V7Goose
    I personally hate the carbtune. Nasty horrible tool that cannot be calibrated, sticks all the time even when new out of box and gets dirty inside that just makes it worse. It does not actually measure the vacuum at all - it measures the volume of air rushing by the loose metal rods in the glass tubes - that is why it gets dirty and sticks all the time! Yes, I have used one on many bikes, so I do have first hand experience with them. A friend even brought me his new one that had never been unpacked, and my calibration test proved that one tube was significantly off. The paperwork that comes with it specifically states they cannot be adjusted. I would not own one even if it was free. The manual gauge sets have completely sealed internal parts (can never get dirty inside), can be easily calibrated if needed, are very accurate, are very rugged, and even measure pressure as well as vacuum if you ever need it. And they can be purchased for about $50. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    The Avons handle better and are quieter. There is not a lot of difference, but I can definitely feel it. On the other side, the E3s are a bit cheaper and the rear E3 lasts about 25% longer. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43681&highlight=front+tire+size http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20815&highlight=front+tire+size http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=683&highlight=front+tire+size
  20. V7Goose
    This is not normal - you have something wrong with your bike. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    You do not bother to tell us what bike you have, or even what bulbs you want to replace (idiot lights? back lights? - both are in the dash). But Superbrightleds.com will have whatever you need so long as the lights can be replaced at all, and they have detailed technical information on each product, including brightness. You will have to pull the bulb you want to replace and do the research on their site to decide what you want to buy. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Excellent info - Thanx! Goose
  23. V7Goose
    The OP has made it clear that he already has all the answers - no point in trying to convince him otherwise. It was my mistake to assume he might actually want some help with a serious problem. I guess he just wanted some place to complain. My bad. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    They do not all leak, at lest not bad enough to cause a problem. But yes, I have seen new replacements that leaked too. This was an especially bad problem in 2005 and early 2006 - I saw one bike that the dealer had to order three Y pipes on one side before he got a good one. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Reading the plugs when they were changed should have shown a difference if there was a problem, but I do not know what you looked at or what experience you have reading plugs - I have seen guys who could not see the difference until I carefully explained it with two plugs side-by-side. The first and easiest test is just to touch the header pipes on a cold start. To do this, you need to reach in behind the chrome shields and touch the very top of the header pipe right next to the exhaust valve. And you only have about 30 seconds to do this test, as those headers will burn you VERY quick if the cylinder is firing OK. Stand on one side of the bike and use the tip of your finger to alternately test both the front and back pipes on the same side - they should start getting hot at the same time. As soon as you feel the heat, move to the other side and do the same test. Remember, you only have about 30 seconds before you will get burned from anything more than a quick tap of your finger if the cylinder is running right and you are touching the pipe in the right place. If any of the pipes seem to be heating up slower than the others, then you have found the first problem. Now the tougher part is to figure out why - could be ignition system, coil/wire/cap, bad plug, carb problem, or valve problem. If you still are not sure after the finger test, then you can try spraying carb cleaner in each of the vacuum ports at different RPM to see if the engine sound changes (it should speed up). Or a similar test is to use insulated plug pliers to pull each plug cap up at different RPM points to see if that changes the RPM (it should slow down). Those two tests can find problems that only show up at higher speeds on a hot engine. Goose Oh, I just thought of one other easy test that you may or may not want to try - an RSV running on only three jugs generally will not hit 100 MPH in 5th gear (I think it peters out around 80 or so), but on all four it will quickly bury the needle at 120!
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