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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    Yes, LockTite will destroy ABS plastic - kinda like a rot. I cannot say for sure that it would cause the paint to react like that, but I have a test going on now. If something started attacking the plastic around the mounting hole, then I would not be surprised at all for a crack to start there. As long as the plastic was not attacked by some chemical that altered the composition, a repair with the ABS solvent is every bit as strong as the original. Here is an example - if you have ever removed the front cowlings, you know those lugs on the bottom that plug into the rubber grommets are quite hard to pull out. You often have to pull on them so hard you are sure the plastic is going to break. Well, I have put two of those lugs back on the cowlings with this method and nothing else, and they have never broken off again over several years and repeated removals. You can repair hairline cracks fairly well by using a metal pick to scratch along the crack and work the solvent in that way, mixing with the surface plastic as it dissolves. For an even stronger repair of a crack that you cannot pull apart, you can cut a V groove about 1/2 way through the plastic, saving the shavings. Then you can mix those shavings with a little MEK solvent (thinner than the pipe cement) and work it back into the groove. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    I sympathize with ya Boomer, and I know where you're coming from. But I have to plead with everyone to NOT let this turn into a political thread, or it will be gone quick. I'm giving Boomer a pass on the generic comments about "worthless elected officials" 'cause that doesn't point the finger to either party or any specific politicians. No reason anyone should feel that was an attack on their own personal favorites, right? So let's just leave it at that, OK all? Goose (who hates what is happening, too)
  3. V7Goose
    I have no idea how I missed that post with the second set of pictures, but I absolutely agree with you. There is no doubt at all that some sort of a chemical reaction was going on in that picture. I don't know why anyone would use Locktite on those bolts, but that would have done it. I will also say that if something like Locktite was used and attacked the plastic, then any repair is questionable. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    On point #1 - I have no idea what size the axle thread really is, since I have never measured it. UPDATE: I just measured an axle; the threads ARE, in fact, 18 x 1.5. But on point #2 - seems like you are way off in left field somewhere on that one. The axle goes through the right fork and screws into the left fork - that is where the threads are, in the bottom of the LEFT fork. The pinch bolt that keeps the axle from turning after it is torqued is in the RIGHT fork, next to the head of the axle, not in the fork with the threads. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Yes, the dauber always comes in the can. You can apply the cement with anything you like, but you will have a difficult time getting enough on a long crack like that with the tip of a toothpick. Using this solvent is not like a normal glue - you are welding the plastic together by melting both pieces. The more it melts, the better the weld, so more cement is usually better than less. If you use flat toothpicks to hold the crack open (that would be about half as wide as a round toothpick), then you can just fill the crack with solvent and all will be good. Let it sit that way for 30 seconds to a minute to soften the plastic, then pull out the toothpicks and ensure the two pieces are properly aligned. And this is not like superglue - you have lots of time to get the parts positioned just right; in fact, a little futzing around with them seems to make the joint even better since the plastic mixes more with any motion. But once it is right, leave it completely alone until it is totally cured. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    I don't like the method you describe. There needs to be enough solvent on BOTH sides of the break to create a layer of melted plastic that can combine. If you just push out one side and apply it like you said, the sharp edge of the other piece will pretty much wipe all the solvent off when it slides back. If you are going to try and do it like that, after applying the solvent to one side, I would pull the break apart and push the other side out without letting the pieces touch as they switch positions. This will allow you to coat bother surfaces with solvent, then pull them apart again to reposition the pieces for the final join. This method will prevent wiping off any of the solvent by letting one piece scrape against the other one. An alternative is to use toothpicks just barely inserted in several places to hold the crack apart. Then use the dauber to squish solvent into the gap. With the toothpicks in place, you might think about using a strip of painter's tape over the outside of the crack to keep the solvent from being squished through. You do not have to worry about getting excess solvent on the inside of the bag - it won't hurt anything. I know you want to try and avoid getting much of that stuff on the outside of the crack, but to get a good weld you need to make sure you use enough to melt the surface of the plastic on both sides of the break. I also like to kind of lightly wiggle the pieces after they are joined to try and mix the plastic together. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Sounds like you're pretty screwed, all right. Never heard of this happening before (but I won't be able to say that again now, will I?) I have never taken the oil pan off one of these, so I can't tell you what is involved. Looking forward to hearing about it though. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    I have never seen one of those bags damaged like that, nor do I have any idea what might have caused it. But a permanent repair is relatively easy with fresh ABS pipe cement. The solvent in the pipe cement actually dissolves the plastic so it does a complete weld that actually makes the two pieces one single piece again. If you do it carefully, you might even not feel the need to have it repainted. To get the pieces properly repaired you must make sure the solvent gets in the crack to coat the pieces where they actually touch - this is not like epoxy that can add strength by a layer on the outside - it must actually melt the two pieces together. The tricky part for you will be to try and keep it from squeezing out on the outside of the bag. If it does get on the outside finish, you don't want to try and wipe it off, since that will mar the surface. Let it completely cure than try to shave any excess along the old crack. With care and a new razor blade, you can do this without scratching. The good thing is that this cement is almost all solvent and no filler, so once it cures there won't be much residue left. Finally, pay attention to that comment about "completely cure". When done right, the repaired ABS will be absolutely as strong as it was when new, but this takes time to let all the solvent flash off - hot sunlight for several hours is minimum - overnight is best. If you put any stress on it before the solvent is completely gone, the plastic will separate again. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Well, I'm certainly glad it is fixed, but I have my doubts... From your explanation, the only thing you think you found was the axle nut OVER torqued. I say this because I do not believe a normal person can approach 110 lbs with a standard 1/2" ratchet. I routinely tighten my axle nut to max with the normal ratchet, then get a lot more movement on it with the long torque wrench. True, I've never tried to REALLY Magilla that nut with just the ratchet, but it still seems unlikely to me. Frankly, I can't see how this would possibly cause any noise since everything is metal to metal contact and you said you have always been torquing the axle nut before the pinch bolt. The only way I can imagine noise from an over-tight axle nut is if one of the spacers is damaged or installed wrong so that you are putting too much pressure on one of the wheel bearings, and THAT doesn't bode well for the life of the bearing! Anyway, it's good to hear that it is now running quiet. Enjoy, and Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Your final gear oil is not due to be changed until 16,000 miles. However, since you are having strange noises you cannot find, it would be a good idea to change it now, just to take a look at the magnet on the drain plug.. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    The fuel gauge display has a self diagnostic capability for several system on the bike. Check the shop manual for what it may be trying to tell you. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    I have never noticed that "dent" or mashed side on the ends of the drive pins before, but I have never had the need to look that close either. I doubt it has any connection to your problem. You did not include any pictures of the part of the drive pins that you need to examine. Right where they come out of the hub they are bigger around than the rest of the length, and there is a short taper where they step down in size. Look at the tech bulletin and they show this clearly and describe what to look for. In short, if the clutch bushings are not completely seated in the wheel, then the steel tube that surrounds the drive pin will impact this tapered portion, where it should not touch. That is what I suspect may be causing your noise. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Anywhere between the two marks is fine. I generally target the top mark, just like I do on a car dipstick. A few people here swear you cannot go over mid way, but that just ain't true on the two RSVs I have owned and several others I work on regularly. Just make sure there is some bubble available in the sight glass and all is good. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Actually, that really fits with noise from the drive pins. Usually you don't hear it unless just pushing the bike around in the driveway, particularly backwards. But that is with dirty rusty pins, so I'm not surprised yours is something else. I'm just trying to say that intermittent noise is typical with this part. Wanna give ya some hope, ya know? Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Basd on your last post, it sounds like you have done a good job of conclusively ruling out the brakes. Seems pretty certain to me now that the issue must be either the hub not completely seated or one or more of the clutch bushings not fully seated. Either problem should be easy to find and fix. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Still thinking on the original and main issue here of noise, but I have not come up with much. The most significant symptoms for diagnosis would seem to be the description of the sound and the fact that it gets louder with the clutch in. A pulsating sound would fit either the brakes or some issue with the clutch hub, as both turn at the same speed and slow enough to hear variances like that. If it is the brake, then it should be reproduceable on the stand, and it should produce a pulsing sensation in the peddle. The odd part is when you say it doesn't start for 15 minutes - that has to be heat related, and for the brakes, thiat could only come from dragging disks or heavy use. The best test I can think of is to wait until you hear the noise and then LIGHTLY touch the brake - not really enough to slow down, just to put some pressure on the pads. Make sure to test it both with the clutch in and with the clutch still engaged and the throttle still on so you do not slow down from the brake. But for it to get LOUDER with the clutch pulled in really seems to point to something in the drive line. Since you did not take off the final drive, and assuming the noise really was not there before you started, then it almost certainly is nothing in the transmission, drive shaft, or final gears. This just leaves the clutch hub. We have already suggested that the snap ring might not be seated correctly and therefore the hub might not be fully seated in the clutch bushings. Besides that, I'd pull the hub off again and position it differently. The tech bulletin says to check the fit in each possible position, and then to choose the one where it slides in the easiest. Another thought about the clutch hub - did you carefully examine the top beveled end of each drive pin fore wear marks on the bevel as described in the tech bulletin? It is possible that one or more clutch bushings are not fully seated and are causing rubbing and wear on the top of the pin. Maybe in the original position this wear spot was already worn enough to mask the problem, but in a new position it is really grating on a different pin. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Yup, that's a new one on me - never heard about fishing on bike! Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Well, the easy answer is that your choke is maladjusted and somehow got pulled part way on. The details you have provided make any other answer much more difficult to imagine. Probably not the fuel pump, since it seems to be only affecting the FRONT two cylinders. But easy to check by just bypassing the pump. Probably not contaminated gas, since your filter would have blocked any solids that could block a jet, and if it was some sort of soap that gummed things up (happened around here a few years ago), it would just get progressively worse. In addition, if the pilot jets were plugged (the most likely jets to have a problem since they are so small), your bike would be doggy off the line but run great at 3/4 throttle. Coils or bad plug caps could absolutely cause the problem, but almost unheard of for two of them to fail at the same time. I have never heard of the carb linkage failing, nor have I ever looked closely at it to see if there might be a weak point in it, but that could certainly cause the driveability symptoms. However, the only thing that really fits the black plugs is the choke. I do not understand this at all - the bike has a rev limiter that prevents it from turning more than 6.5K RPM. But an engine will not suck near as much gas jut being rev'ed to high RPM as it will being ridden under load, so tough to compare those situations. Here's hoping it is the choke! Goose
  19. V7Goose
    OK, seems like we have several other members who have also verified these tires show that fake "rub" mark when new, but I'll give you my evidence anyway. First, I checked two OLD worn out E3s, one off my bike and one from a different RSV (old tires still sitting in the back of my truck waiting for recycle). Neither of these old tires that each had over 15,000 miles showed any shiny strip. But when I looked at the almost new E3 I had to take off (3,000 miles, five days) after I got back from Don's, the shiny strip is obvious. But here is a picture that shows one of the manufacturing stamps right in the middle of that strip - if it had been rubbing at all, that stamp would have been at least marred. In the second picture, you can see where the tire plug is right next to the edge of the tread and the sidewall is bulged - if there was any rubbing, it would be REALLY obvious on this bulge, since I rode close to 300 miles on it. In the final picture, you can see the brand new E3 currently on my bike with only about 400 miles on it - the "rub" strip is clearly visible. But I think all these pictures, along with the other posts above, conclusively prove that these are just fake rub strips, and these tires are not rubbing at all! Goose
  20. V7Goose
    I just went out and examined the brand new E3 on my bike, along with the virtually new one I just took off (only 3,000 miles). BOTH show that shiny strip in the same place, but absolutely no way it is rubbing. I'll update this post with pictures and more explanation in a short while, but I wanted to get this info out as quick as I could. I never paid attention to the new tire before I mounted it, but right now I'm guessing those shiny strips are there. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Well, I just got back from a 300 mile ride to check out an 07 RSV for gibvel, that's why I am so late on any response for you. After looking through this thread I absolutely agree that the tire is rubbing on something. Should not be a weight issue or problem with air in the shock, since that would mean all E3s would rub on any RSV that hit a bump big enough to bottom the shock. From the position of the rub marks, the only possibility would seem to be bolts up in the top of the fender. Have you ever lost any of those trunk and hand grip mounting bolts? Any aftermarket replacement could be different than the stock bolts. Even if you get the noise to stop by airing up the shock, I would NOT ride it that way any more than to do testing. The rubbing also fits the idea that tit takes 15 minutes to start - tire warming up and expanding. Make sure you do not have more than 40 lbs in the tire - that is the max on the sidewall. For testing, drop that to 30 lbs and take a ride to see if the problem still starts. Or maybe just ride it the way it is until the noise starts, then stop and check the air - let enough out to put the hot tire back to the cold pressure you started with and see if the noise is gone. To find what is rubbing, you will need to use a mirror and strong flashlight with the bags off - should be obvious, as the rub point will be clean and shiny. Do hope you find the problem before the tire is damaged! As for the snap ring - that one picture is out of focus so it is hard to tell, but like someone else already said, the snap ring does not look like it is fully seated in the groove. I'd have to take my bike abart and study it to say for sure what results that might cause, but it can't be good at any rate. The most odd thing to me is that the tire is rubbed on BOTH sides. Any assembly problem wouls probably have just moved the tire one way or the other, so only rubbed one side. Can't think of anything that could cause both sides to rub on your bike and no other RSV unless you had two bolts replaced. I'll get up under mine with an inspection mirror tomorrow morning and see if I can spot any likely candidates. My bike is not the best one to compare, since I have leveling links on it, but it is all I got right now. At least I do have a new E3 on it. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    If you did not take the final drive unit off, you are lucky, since that removes lots of potential mechanical things that you could worry about while looking for the problem! For just removing the wheel and changing the tire, there are a limited number of things to check - correct assembly, proper tire bead seating, and damage to the brake disc. First, make sure you put the washer BETWEEN the swing arm and the brake caliper bracket - that is easy to see without dismantling anything. If that is correct, do this test before removing the wheel again: unbolt the rear brake caliper and take it off the disc - just use a short wire to hang it from the crash bar. Now with the rear wheel off the ground start the bike and put it in gear. If it is going to make noise, it should be pretty easy to spot where it is coming from when you can move around the rear of the bike while it is turning. If there is no noise that way, put the caliper back on and try the test again. With the wheel still on the bike, check for runnout to look for a defective tire. You do not need anything special for this if you do not have a dial gauge - just put something like a brick or piece of wood very close to one side of the tire and rotate it by hand, watching the space between the brick and the tire. Do this on both sices of the tire and then at the center of the tread. Here are my thoughts on the most likely things to check: First, did you carefully inspect the little ridges on the tire around the edge of the rim to be certain the tire fully beaded up? That ridge should be EXACTLY the same distance form the edge of the rim all the way around. I have more problems getting the E3 properly seated than any other brand. If none of that shows any problem, think about assembly issues. Did you get the snap ring on the clutch hub properly seated in the groove? Is the bushing on the right side of the wheel inserted the correct way? I think the step side needs to be in toward the bearing. Did you properly torque the axle nut BEFORE tightening the pinch bolt? Let us know what your inspections show and maybe we can help further. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    To make any such test even close to useful, you would have to ensure that everyone had a virtually new bulb. ALL incandescent bulbs age and loose up to 20% or so of their initial brightness. This is well documented by most manufacturers - here is info on the SilverStar: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/HighPerformance/Silverstar/ I can give you first hand information on how significant this can be. Last year Pnch and I ride back from Don's maintenance day together, and we ended up riding all through the night. We both had SilverStar Ultras in our RSV, but his was quite new and mine was four years old with about 60,000 miles on it. The miles are much more important to this subject than the years since our headlights are on anytime the bike is on. Anyway, I thought his headlight seemed inordinately bright and probably aimed too high. At one point we found a big white brick wall at a truck stop where we could back off about 30 feet and compare the headlight spot from both bikes side by side. BIG difference. Although they were both aimed identically, his light was significantly brighter than mine, but on the road I still thought my SilverStar Ultra was very bright, something like double the brightness of a stock bulb. In fact, despite seeing the difference between his new bulb and my old one, I am still happy with the light output, and this same bulb remains in my bike, now with over 80,000 miles on it. So the whole point is that if you do not ensure that all tested bulbs are relatively new, your comparison results will be fairly useless. A new bulb from brand X might be quite a bit brighter than a new bulb from brand Y, but if you compare it with someone who has an older Brand X bulb, your results may show exactly the opposite. An even bigger problem will be someone who says they have a SilverStar Ultra bulb, but in reality they only purchased a normal SilverStar and didn't realize the difference. The problem is that the normal SilverStar bulb is 35% DIMMER than the Ultra. And just about all other brands have a premium version of their top bulbs too, for example, PIAA has the Xtreme and Philips has an Ultra. So in the end, if you don't actually have the bulb packages there to examine, you probably will not have any idea at all what is being compared to what. Bad information is worse than no information. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    You can probably buy self stick weights at most auto parts stores - I bought a big box of them from JC Whitney many years ago. I actually prefer the clip on weights for our wheels since they mount so perfectly to that center rib. But not all clip on weights are made the same, and a lot of them for car rims will not work on our wheel. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Static balancing is easy and very accurate if done with a low friction jig on the axle. You can buy very expensive balance jigs with knife-edge rollers for this purpose, but I do not find those necessary at all. I simply spritz a bit of WD40 on the axle to slick up the grease film that is already on it, then set the wheel between two jack stands - spins REAL easy this way, and you can find balance differences down to about 1/4 oz. I used to use silicone spray on the axle, but found by accident that WD40 mixed with the grease film actually makes it even slicker. The process is even shown in your owner's manual. Correction: Not the owner's manual; see page 7-8 in the shop manual. Goose
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