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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Just clean that spring (steel plate). There is an arrow stamped on the top that must point forward. That is documented in the shop manual. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Yup, when I lived there in the '70s, that was the main beer in that part of Germany.. I drank barrels and barrels of the stuff and loved every drop! Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Well, it looks to me that you have a problem - most likely either bad wheel bearings or dragging rear brake. Your recently declining tire life points to that. I don't know of anyone but you who has gotten LESS miles out of an E3 than a 404. That also fits with the lower mileage you got from the last two 404s. The E3s do make a bit of noise in the curves, but nothing like you say -so that too seems to indicate something else is wrong. Ether the noise is coming from the bike, or what is wrong with the bike has scalloped the sides of the E3 to cause the noise. Unrelated to you other problems, 41 lbs is overinflated for an E3. In my opinion, you have another big problem. Look for it. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Well sir, I find your observations quite interesting, and I do not doubt that you saw what you saw, but it does not tell the whole story. While I have never compared my GPS with the speedo in KMH, I do constantly compare it in MPH (I keep the speed displayed on the main screen), and I know that my 05 has a linear difference in displayed speed to actual GPS reported speed of around 9% (meaning the % off is the same over the full range). I just went out and looked at the speedo display to try and see if the KPH and MPH scales were properly matched. They seem to be very very close, with a slight mismatch at the low end only. Of course it is a bit difficult to see exactly where the marks of one scale match to the other, but I think you can be reasonably accurate if you look closely. Below are the speeds in KPH, where I think they match to the numbers in MPH, and then the actual calculated MPH: 40 KPH = display 27 MPH = actual 24.85 MPH (displays 3.15 MPH high) 60 KPH = display 40 MPH = actual 37.28 MPH (displays 2.72 MPH high) 80 KPH = display 52 MPH = actual 49.71 MPH (displays 2.29 MPH high) 100 KPH = display 62 MPH = actual 62.14 MPH (virtually dead on) 120 KPH = display 75 MPH = actual 74.56 MPH (virtually dead on) 160 KPH = display 100 MPH = actual 99.42 MPH (virtually dead on) 180 KPH = display 112 MPH = actual 111.85 MPH (virtually dead on) So based on those calculations, it seems to me that your observations are correct for speeds below 40 MPH (on the low end of the scale, the KPH numbers do look to be accurate), but at any speed above 60 MPH, the KPH and MPH numbers are both off by the same amount. Note that when I use the word "actual" in the chart above, I mean the actual calculation to convert kilometers to miles, NOT the actual speed you will be going when the speedo points to that number! When my RSV shows that I am traveling at 75 MPH, the GPS shows that I am really traveling about 68 MPH. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Yup - lots of places to find different prices on used machines. I was using Motorcycle Consumer News Used Bike Values, which are based on NADA. They show $7,855 (my apologies on the 7300 number - that was for an '02). You can even get the number up as high as 8700 if you use NADA and check all the "options" like the radio, fairing, etc. But of course we all know that is an error with NADA since those things are stock on the RSV. In the end, the actual value is whatever someone will pay, and yours does look very nice. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Your thermostat is bad. It is either missing or stuck open. This engine will always run around 210 when the ambient temperatures are 80 or below. If the ambient temps are above 90, the engine will run about 190. Goose But then again, it is quite possible your car tire has mucked the engine up. When you violate the laws of nature, anything can happen!
  7. V7Goose
    If the pump is bad, get it replaced under warranty, then just put that new hose under the mat in the trunk as an emergency backup. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    That is a gorgeous bike - always my most favorite of all the RSVs. But the retail value of an 03 is more like $7,300. Best of luck on the sale. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Gee, one poor old crotchety contrarian disagrees with y'all and you go for blood. Sniff Sniff I think I'm just gonna go eat worms. And after that I'm gonna teach young kids how to stand in the middle of the road and deliberately shine a real bright light into the eyes of anyone who drives towards them. THAT oughta keep 'em safe, right? Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Gary, that was a cute but dishonest way to try and take something out of context just because you do not like an opinion that differs with your own. In my response to BradT that you quoted and then misconstrued, I was careful to included the specific part of his quote to which I was responding: "I will run my HID on High beam for the simple reason of being seen." He also specifically mentioned the possibility of himself being blinded for a second. In my response I said nothing about headlight modulators. My response was specifically to his quote that I included, and I neither intended nor implied anything else. And just in case you really cannot understand my other statement, I'll help you out. The "obvious" to which I referred is that it is dangerous to blind oncoming drivers. No matter how you chose to do it. That is pretty obvious to me, but I acknowledge that many riders do not seem to understand it. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    It is probably your fuel pump. I'd bypass it by running a new line straight from the tank to the carb input and ride it like that for a week or so to see if any problems show up like they did before (pull the fuel pump fuse while it is bypassed). If it doesn't act up while the pump is bypassed, then go back on the pump and see how long it takes before the problems come back (do not forget to put the fuse back in). While this test is not conclusive, it is very easy to do and cost almost nothing. If the problems never show up while you are on gravity feed, but they come back with the pump, you have pretty good evidence that the pump is going bad. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    I don't suppose there is anything I could say that might possibly make it clear to you how dangerous and unintelligent it is to deliberately blind the sight of an oncoming driver? No, I didn't think so. Sigh I guess it is just an irrational hope I have that the obvious might somehow become clear to those of you who chose to do this. Never mind - I'll just carry on tilting at windmills. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    All my tires are ordered over the internet - and I compare prices and always buy the cheapest I can find for the specific brand/size from a site I trust. Back before 2009 that was usually SW Moto, but since they sold out, I have been finding better prices at Motorcycle Superstore and Jake Wilson. No mater who I order from, the tires are usually drop-shipped from a wholesaler (like Tucker-Rocky, but I have seen several different names), and I never know where they will be shipped from. Southwest used to ship their own, but I've seen tires come in from Washington, Utah, Arizona, and Texas (and maybe other places I do not remember). Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Actually, the specific tire sizes used on the 2nd gens are used on very few other machines. The front E3 I mounted on 05/28/09 also as a 3707 date. Here is what I think is going on - the entire E3 series was brand new back around 2007. The 150/80-16 front tire was available from the beginning, but it took them a couple of years to get around to making a rear tire to fit our bikes. I suspect that the 37th week of 2007 may have been the very first run of that tire size, and since those tires are only used by the Royal Stars, Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad and Suzuki Intruder/C90, it is possible they rarely need to do a new run - maybe they have never done one since 3707? Anyway, it looks like there may be a bunch of the original 3707 E3s sitting around rotting in warehouses just waiting for us to finally need them. Personally I have not been super impressed with the E3 front tire, so when I need a new front for the new E3 I just mounted on the rear of QuickSilver, I think I'll put a Venom on there. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Yes, they are legal. Unfortunately. I am one of those who feel they are a VERY VERY VERY bad idea. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    That's a real shame. I am sorry for you. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Pure Bovine Scat unless there is a leak. It is true that the fluid will go down some while the pads wear, as the pistons do stay pushed out to keep the pads close to the disc. But only a fool or a liar would say what he did. Think about it - if the manufacturer designed a brake system that would run out of fluid in the master cylinder BEFORE the pads were completely used up, then the brakes would simply stop working at that point, the owners would die in horrible crashes, and the law suits would be beyond imagination. No, not to any perceptible amount. The pads are not spring loaded, so there is nothing to push them any further back than just the pressure of the disc. So once they barely clear the disc, they stop and stay right there. Letting it sit for 6 hours or 6 years won't change a thing. Huh? Where'd this come from - you got charging issues TOO???? It is highly unlikely that any leak would have been enough to actually squirt the fluid out in a stream, so it is a bit pointless to just look at something right next to the brake fitting. Where any leaking fluid would end up is completely at the whim of the air currents blowing around under there. It was going to spread and splatter one little drop at a time. Not only would I closely examine the entire bag, but also the wheel and fender. Do not be surprised to not see any actual fluid, since it rinses right off with water. But if it was there long enough to start damaging the paint, you should be able to see that. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    The moron who replaced your rear caliper is 1,000% responsible for the lack of fluid in the system, as well as any damage that can be traced to the leaking fluid. Of course, the tough decision is how much more do you want this idiot moron to mess up on your bike if you try to make him fix it? BIG correction here about what I told you concerning checking the front brake fluid - I was thinking of the CLUTCH on the left handlebar! (That makes me the moron for this one.) For the front brake, on the side stand with the bars turned left should have had the master cylinder level, or at least close to it. The first thing I would do with the front brake is to use a vacuum pump or turkey baster to suck out all the fluid from the reservoir and put it into a small glass jar so you can clearly see if it looks like something is mixed or contaminated. Technically, you should not have to replace the brake lines just because of contaminated fluid - a good flush should clear them out. But generally rubber hoses should be replaced every four years, so it might be a good idea anyway. If DOT5 has been added, you absolutely should rebuild the master cylinder and calipers. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Well, you certainly have a big problem with the rear brake. The master cylinder should never be empty. Period. Since you said someone recently replaced the rear caliper (or did you just mean the pads?), it would seem likely that some moron mucked it up. Missing fluid certainly seems like a prime suspect for that paint damage under your bag, too. As for the asinine statement about two different colored fluids in the front brakes - the stupid fool that would say something like that shouldn't be allowed to even wipe up dog spit - they do not have the technical skills for such a complicated job. Unfortunately, I cannot tell you if you have nothing to worry about or a huge major problem with the front brakes now. Let's start with the easy one. How were you checking the level? The top of the master cylinder must be level to do this. Generally the front brake master cylinder will be level if the bars are turned to the left while on the side stand. So maybe you just saw it look low because it was not level? You did say that you checked the fluid by removing the cap, and it was full, so that takes me to the concern about possible big problem. The only grain of truth in what the idiot said about two different fluids would be if someone added DOT5 fluid - BIG NO NO! Because I have never actually tried to mix them, I cannot say for sure how that would look, but I do know that it totally messes up the entire brake system, and usually destroys the rubber seals. So if this moron actually believed that someone did that, then even a mental midget with 59 IQ couldn't have just dismissed it and said everything is fine. Of course I am saying all those disparaging things about that fool BECAUSE he is supposed to be someone who knows these things, not an untrained wino looking to hook up in the vegetable isle of the local grocery store. Unfortunately, it sounds to me like the bare minimum you can do right now is a complete flush of both brake systems. And more likely you will need to do a rebuild of all the movable parts. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    I just got done changing a front tire on an RSV, and while I had the axle out I took the time to measure the threads. I can absolutely confirm that Seaking's original post was correct. The threads are 18mm x 1.5. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    FYI - I just noticed this thread was in the 2nd gen tech forum, so I moved it. Your bike is a 1st generation Venture. You will get lots more attention from the right people in this forum. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    I personally do not know much about the 1st gen bikes, but there are plenty on here who will jump in shortly and tell you all you need to know about what manuals are best and how to do the work. But I can assure you that these bikes run really well on just three cylinders - it is hard to tell until you are pushing 85 MPH. Your problem could be either a completely dead cylinder or other things like bad plug wires that just make all of them run less than optimal. Of course, it might be a mechanical issue also, such as misadjusted valves or poor compression. But one step at a time. Keep us posted on what you find, and there are plenty of folks here that will help you eventually narrow it down. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    You didn't bother to tell us what bike you have, but it is very easy to see how much pad is left on the 2nd gens by just looking at them from the bottom rear of the calipers - you can see all four pads without removing anything. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Your fuel mileage is way too low. Personally I would never put camp fuel in my gas tank, but there are several good fuel system cleaners that you can try, such as Techron, Sea Foam, or 44K. But I'd look beyond the carbs for what is wrong. With that low mileage, I would not be surprised if you were running on only three cylinders. Read your plugs to see if they all look the same and check the heat on the header pipes right next to the head after only running for 30 seconds (one minute max). They should all be too hot to touch for more than a brief second. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Sounds almost certainly to be either a bad jack or the cord from your player. The dirty environment and vibration on a bike can play havoc with electrical connections. Possible the wires behind the jack have shorted out, but not very likely if you are using the factory jack behind the cassette door. You did say your tired a different cord and that did not help, but were you listening carefully to the speakers when you plugged the cord in? Try it again with the key in ACC and set to Aux, and plug/unplug the cord slowly several times to see the sound briefly comes on. Not all cords are created equal, and sometimes the dimensions on the plug are different so they just barely match up in one specific position. Also take another device with the same size headphone jack with you so you can try it when your player stops. Finally, check the connection in the Aux input wire inside the fairing (no wires under the seat for this). The Aux jack behind the cassette door just plugs into a wire about six inches behind the cassette - this is the same plug where you would add a Y splitter if you were going to install a second input jack. Reseating that plug might solve your problem if nothing else does. Goose
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