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frankd

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  1. frankd
    There is a fuse link in the 10 gauge red wire attached to the positive battery terminal. Follow the wire to the left of the battery (near the solenoid) and you will find the master fuse. Open up the case and make sure the screws that secure the link are tight. If the fuse link is tight, you may want to try another regulator. Frank D.
  2. frankd
    They changed the clutch springs when they changed to 1300cc (1986). The 1200's use 6 or 8 conventional springs and the 1300's have a diaphram spring. I don't know if they changed anything else though....if they didn't everything might fit. I suspect they changed because the 1300's made more torque and the new type spring would hold up better to the torque. However that's just my thought... Frank
  3. frankd
    86er, Reducing the load on your electrical system is great, except it doesn't lower the draw on the stator one bit. The stator is around a permanent magnet rotor. That means because the magnetic field never changes, the only thing that changes stator output is a change in engine speed. The faster the engine spins, the more the stator puts out. The voltage regulator contains a shunt regulator. When the voltage reaches about 14.5 volts, the shunt regulator starts to conduct, dissipating any extra energy as heat. Another way to look at this is to have a faucet on the output of a water pump, and regulating the output pressure by adjusting the faucet. The more you open the faucet the more water escapes, which lowers the sytem pressure. What this all means is that when you're going down the road with your new low current tail lights, your voltage regulator will let a little more energy go to to ground, and make a little more heat. Frank D.
  4. frankd
    Dan, Your best clue is that the lights go dim when you try to crank it with the starter button. Take a voltmeter OR a test light and put it across the battery (right on the terminals). Try the bike and read the meter at the same time. If it goes way down (below 10 volts) you have a bad battery. If it doesn't go down, put the negative lead on the bike frame. Try it and read the voltage. If it goes down now, check your ground connections, especially the side that attaches to the motor. If it read OK, move the positive lead to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Push the starter button and see what happens. If it goes low when you try to crank, check the positive battery and solenoid connections. If you still haven't found anything, we'll keep on looking. Frank
  5. frankd
    Dan, What kind of bike is it?? If it's a Yammie, does it have a sidestand switch? Check for a loose or oxidized fuse. Frank
  6. frankd
    It was an Avon, and it had about 25,000 miles on it. The Touring Elilte II's I used before the Avons would last about 22,000. I wish I had the time to wear out more tires. Frank
  7. frankd
    I was gonna bring up this subject today myself..... Yesterday we replaced the front tire on my brother's Venture. It's my 'old' bike, and I'd put RideOn in the tires about 5 years ago. I found the product was still liquid in the tire, but the rim was coated with what could be described as dried sludge. Not only was it on the center of the rim, but it was also where the tire seals on the rim. Most of the sludge in the center cleaned off with a paper towel, but what was in the tire seal area was dried and bonded to the aluminum. A half hour with a wire brush cleaned it off, but I've never heard anybody else having to do this. This bike is stored where it would have frozen most winters. I wonder if that had anything to do with it. Or could it have been the 5 years? Any ideas?? Frank
  8. frankd
    If the engine is in the bike I gather you pull the exhaust chamber off the bike and then drop the cylinder out the bottom? I changed this a long time ago, but I can't remember how I did it. I unbolted it, but I can't figure out any other way to get it out. Heck, I also had it out when I fixed 2nd gear, but then the engine was on the workbench.
  9. frankd
    Tim, Is your good setup your testing setup?? If it is, if I determine what wire color is the high side of the volume controls could you measure the voltage there?? Do you have a 'scope. Frank
  10. frankd
    Well I woke up with an idea about how 'MY' cassette/radio panel had such high gain (my radio is at full volume when the dial is @ 9:00) and when I have my friends installed the radio works great----less distortion and you have to rotate the volume control all the way up to get to full volume. It dawned on me that I'd never tried the cassette. The previous owner told me that it drags. I could just put a new belt in it, but I intend on pulling the cassette and installing a hook up for my IPOD. My cassette player drags like I was told, but it's also too loud. It's just as hot as my radio Tim....We know my amplifier and tuner modules are fine because they work good with my friends control panel. My volume control appears to be good...It measures 50Kohm and after I sprayed some cleaner in it I see no open spots when you sweep it from one end to the other. The low end of the volume control IS connected to ground and the plug is making contact. When I measure from the low end of the volume control to bike chassis I get continuity. Would it be possible for you to measure the level of the signal present at the high end of the volume control on your test setup? Then I'll drag my 'scope out to the garage and measure mine. Of course if anybody has an unneeded control panel they'd be willing to sell, I'd be interested!! Frank
  11. frankd
    I went over to my friends house yesterday and tried the control panel from his 86 in my 89. With it installed things worked great.....The volume control wasn't so sensitive...you had to turn it way up for normal volume and both channels of the helmet speakers worked @ equal volume and great fidelity. When I put my control unit back in and came home, both channels of the helmet speakers worked and I had no voltage regulator noise in the left channel. I suspect that the pins on bottom blue connector weren't making originally and started working after being exercised. Today I took the panel apart and cleaned the volume control. I also checked the ground connection to the bottom of the volume control and it's there and solid. The wire that grounds the bottom of the volume controls occupies 2 pins on the connector and both are solid. However, the volume control still turns the volume up way too fast. I see where some water did wash into the volume potentiometer, maybe it damaged the taper. BTW, the both sides of the volume control measure 50Kohm. I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement assembly.
  12. frankd
    Tim, Last winter I bought a low mileage 89 to replace my 83. On my 83 I had an aftermarket AM/FM radio. My 89 has the full intercom/cb/tape/radio and I've got a couple of problems to solve. 1) The tone quality of the radio out the speakers is poor and the volume control is real sensitive. I know this problem is in the tuner/control module because I tried a friends and things worked normal. When I put my tuner module in his bike it sounded bad and the volume control was extremely sensitive. I think that cleaning the volume control will fix the sensitive control, but?? 2) I purchased some of those 'expensive' J&M speaker/mikes for the helmets. Both channels of the radio sound equal in the fairing speakers, but through the helmet speakers the left channel is dead except for noise generated by the voltage regulator. However the intercom and CB work through both sides w/normal sound. BTW, I know that it's voltage regulator noise that I hear in the left channel because when you step on the brakes or turn on the driving lights and the regulator quits shunting power to ground it goes away. When you flash the turn signal it comes and goes as the light flashes. If fixing the no radio audio in the left channel doesn't cure the noise a filter capacitor or a pi type filter will. Have you drawn any prints that might help or do you have any ideas? Frank KA9J
  13. frankd
    Actually, it does apply. But before you test the rectifiers, did you inspect the stator to regulator plug for burnt wires? Disconnect the negative battery cable, and then disconnect the stator to regulator plug. There are 6 rectifiers in the regulator and if one goes bad the output of the charging system is greatly reduced. Ground 1 lead of an ohmeter (an conventional ohmeter on the RX1 range is best for this test, but a digital ohmeter on the diode test range will work---the normal digital meter ohmeter range will not work). Then take the other ohmeter lead and measure to each of the 3 wires in the regulator side of the stator to regulator plug. Notice if the meter reads about 2/3 scale or stays near the bottom. Then exchange the ohmeter leads and repeat the test. Now the meter should indicate the opposite condition that it did the first time. All 3 leads should measure the same though. Remember that a rectifier conducts in 1 direction, is open in the other. Now move the ohmeter lead to the positive battery terminal and test the 3 leads again. Last, exchange the ohmeter leads and repeat the test. Once again 1 was should indicate 2/3 scale, and the other way open and all 3 wires should act the same. When my regulator went bad, 1 rectifier was open. The regulator also has a shunt regulator. The stator makes the same amount of charge current no matter what you need. The shunt regulator makes heat out of any extra output and allows exactly what you need to go to your battery and motorcycle wiring. The shunt regulator is dificult to test, but I guess if your 6 rectifiers are OK and also you stator plug isn't burned up AND your new stator is good.......Run it about 2-3000 RPM for a couple of minutes and then touch the regulator and see how hot it is. BTW, are you sure your battery is good?
  14. frankd
    When you bled it, did the brake fluid come out of the rear bleeder in a normal volume? It should be identical to the front caliper. If so, the things I'd check would be the brake pads and then if the caliper cylinders are frozen. Frank
  15. frankd
    Don't worry about it......If the temperature is above 105 you're lucky if the fan doesn't run all the time!!
  16. frankd
    The proceedure that George wrote is correct except it takes a 12MM socket to remove the two nuts. Don't forget to loosen the 2 clamps where the rear ports on the collector meet the rear cylinder header pipes (also 12 mm heads). As I remember you reach up through the rear suspension linkage at an angle to get to these, and you need an extension about 10-12" long. I've re-used my gaskets several times with no problems. They're too expensive to replace if the old ones are still good. When you put the collector back on, leave the mounting nuts and rear header pipe clamps loose until you get the front header pipes installed. I also used my floor jack with a rubber pad to hold the collector in place while you are starting the nuts. Frank
  17. frankd
    You should be receiving my payment also.... Frank
  18. frankd
    If the cylinder was full of gasoline, some of it drained down into the crankcase dilluting the engine oil. Change the oil. Then let's see what noises you still have. Of course, you may really have bent a connecting rod when you dumped the clutch when the motor was locked up but it's not likely. Frank
  19. frankd
    Jason, Any chance you have the part number for the throttle cable that wears out? Frank
  20. frankd
    I live in Plainfield and I'd be happy to show how easy this is. Frank
  21. frankd
    Either of these methods could be considered a modification of my system.....I've been using the Class 3 hitch on my E-350 van or my Dodge Ramcharger truck. However I've been lifting the vehicle with a floor jack, positioning the wood in a similiar fashion, then releasing the floor jack. The screw jack (or a bottle jack) pushing on the bead looks a bit easier. I may try the bead breaker anyway. I does look like it'd work for the front for sure. I think the rear tire might be too deep for it though. Frank
  22. frankd
    I've always had a bear of a time breaking the bead when I change my Venture's tires. The front is always worse. I see that J.C. Whitney has a bead breaker, but it says that it won't work on street/sport tires http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004056/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004056/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10111/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker Has anybody tried this? How do others break beads? BTW, the lowest price I've found so far for Avons is J.C. Whitney's! Frank
  23. frankd
    The resistance to ground from the negative battery terminal reading 20-50 if the bike is running.......Any current through the cable would cause a small voltage drop. That voltage drop will cause the ohmeter to read incorrectly. You can't read resistance accurately if there is current flowing. You could have a bad rectifier/regulator. A while back my 83 was hardly charging. I measured the stator to ground resistance and it was near infinity (open circuit) as it should be. I then tested the 6 rectifiers in the regulator and one was open (bad). Disconnect the stator and using an ohmeter measure from each stator lead to ground and also the positive battery terminal. Measure each lead with the ohmeter leads in hooked up one way, then reverse them. In one direction you should see the rectifier conducting, and in the other direction it should measure open. Remember you have 3 stator leads, so you will need to repeat this test 6 times. Once from each stator lead to both the positive battery terminal and also once to ground.
  24. frankd
    Dawg, The clutch bleeder is under the rubber boot that is on the left side behind the rear cylinder. To bleed the system, make sure your master cylinder is full and I usually push a length of clear tubing over the bleeder's opening and put the other end in a container to catch the old brake fluid. Then (and it helps to have a 2nd person) pull the clutch in, open the bleeder, close the bleeder after the fluid comes out, THEN release the clutch lever. Pump it a couple of times, and repeat until no air comes out with the fluid. If you want to flush the system it helps to have a vacuum bleeder. Use it suck all of the fluid out of the bleeder. Then fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid and draw it into the actuating cylinder with the vacuum bleeder. You can't really get all of the fluid out by drawing it out of the bleeder, so you may want to flush it twice. Without the vacuum bleeder, it's difficult to get the clutch master cylinder to draw the fresh brake fluid into a dry system. Some have held the clutch master cylinder pulled in by binding it and leaving it overnight to re-fill the system with out the vacuum bleeder.
  25. frankd
    Tim, I just placed the order and included 4 for you. Send me your info. in an e-mail and I'll send back the details. Frank
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