LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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A Wagner 4449 is a 30W sealed beam replacement for that (EDIT: At least this is what I use and from what I can tell they are identical to what my yamaha dealer wanted $60 each (sold in pairs of course)). (The autoparts store I got mine from had to order them... Fortunately one of the distribution centers is on the other side of town so I got it in about 45 minutes). But to answer your question: The 55 watt bulbs draw more current than the 30 Watt bulbs. A pair of 55 watters draws ~9.2 Amps (for the pair assuming it is supplied with ~12 volts). Compared to the 5A draw of the 30 Watt pair (again assuming 12V). Now this estimate is a little bit high since the bike really has 13.5-14V within the electrical system, but being slightly higher to be on the safe side is fine. Now if you include the 55/60 Watt (low beam/high beam) you are looking at a total current draw for the headlamps/spotlamps of 14.2A (with 55W spotlights) or ~10A with the 30W spot lights. Finally, we cannot forget about the tail lamp. So if your passing lights are on the headlight circuit, using the 55W spotlights is pushing the upper limit of the headlamp circuit. If your passing lamps are powered directly from the battery or on their own circuit, then you are fine (since this is still under the total max capacity of the stator). I hope that helps.
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Good call! Wasn't even thinking about that one sheesh...
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Here you go, right here in our very own classifieds http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2268 Buy the fairing (for $9,000) and the rest of the bike comes with it, free! Pinwall has this [blue] one that is in good shape for 150: Ebay item #: 370047240996 You would have to have it painted though...
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Glad you figured out what it is. The rewiring is not very difficult at all, and you can use the existing wires to activate a relay so the only remaining wire you would need to run is the one to power the passing lamps when the relay is activated... Well obviously replacing whichever wires are goofed up. Glad it was something relatively simple/straightforward and relatively cheap BTW I got the replacement spotlamps at o'riley autoparts for 15 a piece. Wagner 4449 30W spotlamp (exact same bulb Yamaha sells for the 120 for the pair)
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HAHA I wonder which one is easier to handle at low speeds, that or the RSV? Good color for him by the way!
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Pinwall cycle parts on ebay has all sorts of stuff... Some are in good shape and some aren't but they have an enormous selection! Sorry to hear about the scoot
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If it were me I would end up buying a brand new bottle and throw that in my carry-on and TRY to get through security not thinking about it (due to all of the excitement)... So if you are planning of flying up there you may want to pick some up AFTER you get off the plane. Oh yea, if I have not said it already; congrats on the new scoot!! It really is a great looking bike! I cannot believe the deal you got on that; GOOD FOR YOU!!
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Computer virus help
LilBeaver replied to slick97spirit's topic in Computer help and tips for using this site.
+1 to spybot and all you've got to lose by trying those is the time it takes to put them on there. Another free one that I found just recently is "Advanced SystemCare" it is a free thing. Sometimes (I say sometimes because I believe it is quite rare) booting in safe mode won't allow the anti-spyware program to actually find the spyware due to how the silly thing hides itself. So another option is to find a program that you can run off of a memory stick or something and try it that way. I used to have one, but it has been a long time since I have used it and I do not remember what it was. Hopefully doing it in safe mode WILL take care of it for you though. Good Luck! -
Glad you are having a good trip and everything is going well for you two!!
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Have fun, be safe, and take lots of pictures!
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I use the J&M 8154 available from wingstuff.com for 73.00 a piece. Good quality for voice and I think I had music through them once just to make sure it works but I am not a fan of music in my helmet while I drive. I have been happy with this set. But I just re-read your post after I clicked submit and realised that you will said you will be using a half helmet so this probably will not help you too much... Sorry.
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Well, if the battery was fine the bike should still crank unless the starter solenoid is stuck. As others have said, I would start by checking the battery (and the battery terminals & connections). Then connect it to another vehicle (with 12V system) and turn your key on, remove the negative jump terminal from your battery then replace it and see if you notice any difference with the brightness of your lights. Then try to start 'er up. If you remove the jump cable and the bike dies almost immediately then it could be the alternator or something else in the charging system too... But one thing at a time. I will be back in town real late Monday night. I know you said that your son is around, but if you are still around there and need an extra hand let me know - I am only 170 miles (2.5 hrs) away and would be happy to assist. - my # is in my profile
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Enjoy!
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03 Midnight RSV steers hard
LilBeaver replied to arnesbay's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
+1 to the tire pressure This might be a stretch, but it is quick to check the air in the front forks (make sure they are equal or just let all of the air out of both). Like I said, I am not positive this would contribute to the symptoms you describe but it is an easy thing to do to rule it out. -
These magnets are also helpful if you are looking to collect spare metal parts in your rear tire while driving down the road.
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The suggested maximum weight limit addresses the maximum safe load for operating the bike. So this includes the tires (as already mentioned as well as suggested for a fix) and suspension and everything else (but the tires and suspension are what sticks out to me as probably the most critical). Just throwing that out there... I would have a tendency to agree with the artificially low max weight rating, however, there is also the possibility that the max weight limit was computed and that is truly the limit.
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Some quick brainstorming: Well, something to do would be to look for the pinched wire (as you have already said), bare wire (possibly shorting to ground -- which is kindof covered with the pinched wire business), loose/corroded ground, and if you have a multimeter handy start the bike and check the voltage at the battery terminals (you could also do the check on the lighting circuit) for the proper operating terminal voltage (the regulator/rectifier issue comes to mind since I just went through those shenanigans but I blew bulbs instead of fuses for some weird reason). Do you know how your passing lamps are wired (what is the wattage on those puppies)? What else is on that circuit? (ie. tail lamp, light bars, etc) It is not very common, but sometimes fuses do just burn out. This is what comes to my mind immediately and where I would consider starting with the troubleshooting. Good luck NOTE: I think I missed your earlier posts regarding other issues you've been having so hopefully I haven't repeated anything yet
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Congrats!
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Very nice...
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Cool cool. With the shape that many paint booths are in they are not anywhere close to having ideal shop conditions either :-P. I actually saw him (literally, drove bye) last time I was up here... I was out for a drive along nw marine drive (I think that was the road) along the water front by UBC and he was going the other direction... Traffic was ridiculous that day... I suppose we have nearly successfully hijacked the thread now... Sorry
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Rick (SilverT) I had glanced at it while talking with MurrayD and you at some point. From what I saw, It looked good and had a nice finish on it too . I meant to take a closer look at it because it was towards the end of the conversation that I found out that you had repainted it but we ended up saddling up and taking off. The main thing that made it work out for you would have been the 'real' base coat followed by a properly applied clear. Both of which of course was of an appropriate grade for the application. From what I read on a post that you had a while back explaining your preparation work before the actual painting, everything that you described was done appropriately. Without proper prep work, it doesn't matter what kind of paint anyone uses it will either not look good (cloudy, textured, etc) or the paint will not stick (either immediately or will peel) or numerous other problems that I will not get into right now... When a paint shop bottles the paint like that it is a different mixture (paint, hardener, reducer, etc) than what you would get if you were to just pick one up off of the shelf. When done the way you had it done, the only difference between shooting it out of the can and shooting it out of a spray gun is the propellant (and of course certain tuning you can do with the gun that you cannot do with a hand-held spray can). If you would have applied the base coat with a spray gun you would have taken near the exact mix (depending on temperature and other enviromental factors that you would account for when doing the final mix before you pour it in the gun) that one would if they were going to pour the paint in the gun's cup and spray it on that way. The other major thing that you did right was apply a 'real' (again for lack of a better word) clear coat after your base. The clear (as you know) is what gives the depth, clarity, and gloss/'the wet look' to the paint job (as well as color longevity protection from the elements). So if one uses a clear that is not of an appropriate grade it will not maintain the look nearly as long and in some cases it will get 'mucky' or yellow (as goose described) and likely peel. So, by waxing after one applies the paint (after you give the paint a few weeks to fully harden/cure) you are essentially giving yourself an extra layer of protection from the elements, scratching and most importantly the sun.
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Quick wrap up and a few pictures from my last trip (TX to MI)
LilBeaver replied to LilBeaver's topic in Watering Hole
Yes sir! No doubt about it Looks like you were one of the lucky ones too! -
Keep in mind that as soon as you put this spray stuff on if you take it to a body shop they will actually have to strip off what you put on there in order to do it properly which means more time/labor and more money... The reason that it has to be stripped is simply because when the shop would prep your part for paint, they would sand the paint that is on there for the adhesion of the new paint. Out of the several hundreds of cars that I have painted everyone that had some sort of spray paint out of a rattle can (even the stuff that claims it is automotive paint) it melts while you sand it, gums up the paper, and if you just paint over it anyways you get a horrible finish. Bottom line, it will likely cost you much more to have it fixed/painted after you put this rattle can stuff on it than it would if you took it to them now. Now, sometimes the rattle can stuff works fine and realistically as long as you keep a good healthy coat of wax over top of a high quality canned spray stuff it is likely that you will not have a problem with it fading right away. Goose said his did it within a year. I have seen cars come in the shop that I worked at with spray stuff on it that was horrid within a week and some that until we started sanding some parts of the vehicle we did not realize that it was touched up with it long after it was done (this we found common among people that bought a used car from a used car dealer and then wanted to change the color). Personally, I would never use a rattle can paint on any of my vehicles but that is just me (I also have the equipment to do it with a regular paint gun though...). Like I have said already some people do and it looks fine and some people do and it does not. From the pictures I see here the bike looks great!!!! Keep it waxed to protect that finish though
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Terrific! Thanks for the update
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Quick wrap up and a few pictures from my last trip (TX to MI)
LilBeaver replied to LilBeaver's topic in Watering Hole
Haha, yup - and after all of those bugs pile up I didn't even notice the little bubble! (Thanks again - it was great)